Custom help

[Internal Error]

Using the Rit dye, how do you get the dye to take on the paint? Also,
can this be used for the plastic parts to be dyed?

Does anyone have a source for the JL 5 spoke wheels other that buying the
cars?

Kevin

[Bernardwt]

OK, Here's how I do it. Get some RIT Dye at WalMarts/Kmarts/grocery store.
WalMarts around here is the cheapest. There are two types, tablets and liquid,
I use liquid. Hit the flea market and find a used pan. I use an enamel sauce
pan about 6" dia. and about 2" deep. For some reason I have had better success
with colors using an enamel pan as opposed to stainless steel, no science here,
just my preference. You have to heat the dye/water combo, I use a portable
electric/coil burner, with temperature control. At first I was stingy with the
dye (used an eye dropper and put in a couple of teaspoons full) now I just pour
it in until the water is good and dark. When I first started I tried to record
everything like a lab experiment. That got boing very quickly and I would
always forget to write down time in water, temp setting, amount of dye........
Now I just dump and burn <g>. You do have to be careful with the temperature.
If the water gets too hot, small bubbles will form on the surface of the cars
and you will get little white spots where the bubbles were. If you can still
touch the side of the pot while hot you should be ok.

Next, get some cars, Ford escort, Milk truck, Tropicool Baja Bug,any metallic
silver car (BMW 23 Roadster, BMW M1(this one works real well and gets rid of
some peg warmers off the toy shelves, comes out 2 tone, I'll send you one)).
Any yellow car will come out with some neat orange tones if put in red dye.
Get a drill and drill out the rivets on the bottom of the car. Use a sharp bit
and it will only take a couple of seconds. Just drill of enough of the rivet
so you can pry the chasis off. I have dumped the whole car in the dye, this
will work but eventually the axles will rust out. The dye will not stain
anything plastic, however if the water is hot enough and the car left in long
enough I have had some wheels tint a little bit. My preference now is to
remove the chasis though because of the axels rusting.

I take some clothes pins and using an exacto knife, cut the pins to fit snuggly
under the chasis (drill holes in the pins where the rivet posts on the chasis
are). This will lift the chasis off the bottom of the pan so the whole car
dyes evenly. Get a pair of tongs and start dipping them :-)

Every couple of minutes check the cars. If there are bubbles, reduce heat. I
take mine and dip them in cool water to get the bubbles off. Also check around
bumpers or any edges on the body to see if any bubbles have snuck there!!!
This will really p*ss you off if you get a really nice color and then find an
undyed spot on the car, check bumpers. This actually lead to a nice discovery
for me, sometimes I paint the bumpers when done and have gotten some nice
results. When the car is a color you like, it's done!!! I have left some cars
in overnight, some 5 minutes, whatever suits you. When finished take the car
out of the dye pot and rinse in clean water.

Note: Before dying you can leave the decals on if you like, dye won't do
anything to them. Or take some laquer/paint thinner and a paper towel and
remove the tampos. Do this after you have taken the car apart. The
laquer/paint thinner will ruin any palstic parts or wheels if it gets on it. I
have tried non acetone nail polish remover but the thinner works much faster.
Wash the cars in water after removing any tampos.

Get some model paint and start to detail your interiors and bottom of chasis.
Flat colors work best. I paint everything flat first then use other colors
over the flat color. Some people I have heard actually use primer paint first.
I bought some really fine tipped artist brushes at the flea market and they
work pretty well.

When the body is dyed the color you like and your detailing is done pop the car
back together. Get some 2 part epoxy at any automotive store (Pep
Boys.......). I use JB Weld. Mix a small amount together and fill the hole
where the rivet used to be. When dry you can sand if needed and paint the
epoxy.

If you like the repackaged look. Get some GooGone at WalMarts. Squirt some on
the back of the blister where the plastic bubble attaches to the cardboard.
Wait a minute or 2 and slowly start to peel the bubble off. This takes some
practice. I still tear some cardboard if not patient enough. I just use the
GooGone on three sides of the bubble fourth side stays attached. When you put
the car back in, use a very small amount of Elmers glue and viola you are done.

I just started about three months ago so I'm still a rookie at it but it's
really not that hard. You do need a decent size work space for convenience.

If you try it and have any questions drop me a line and I'll try to help out
any way I can.

Sir Wayne of the Wilderness

[Jesus Freak]

Very good info <><charlie

A yellow Mach 1 turns a chocolate
brown is dipped in purple.

A Thunderbolt turns a copper color
if dipped in red.

[Charles Seyferth]

Bernardwt wrote:

> OK, Here's how I do it. Get some RIT Dye at WalMarts/Kmarts/grocery store.
> WalMarts around here is the cheapest. There are two types, tablets and liquid,

<SNIP!>

> I just started about three months ago so I'm still a rookie at it but it'sreally
> not that hard. You do need a decent size work space for convenience.

Great tips! I've been thinking of setting up a Diecast Customizers discussion
group (see an example at http://disc.server.com/Indices/25626.html ). How many
people are interested in something like this (if it doesn't already exist....)?

[paula Martasian]

I think RTC is a good place to start this type of discussion group, in
fact post like this do come up from time to time. How to stuff can
always keep hobbies on a positive track and generate continued interest
as well as growth.

Barry in Pa