Customizing FAQ
Speed42
I've been responding to a lot of customizing questions lately and
thought I'd write a FAQ. I'll post it here first and let anyone
criticize it that wants to. Then after editing, I'll add it to Speed's
Garage.
If you're a customizer, please read this over and let me know anything
that should be added/changed in it.
Thanks.
> Let me preface this advice with a disclaimer. I am NOT a pro at customizing. I'm just getting started good myself. Therefore, if you get a response from someone else contradicting my tips, it's probably safe to assume they are right and I'm wrong! =)
>
> Tools:
> Almost everyone I know who customizes Hot Wheels owns a Dremel tool. They are the best tool available as far as I know for working on the small cars and parts. You don't have to have the most expensive model, either. I've got the cheaper one and have had no trouble out of it.
> Use the drill bit to remove rivets and axles. Use the cutoff wheel to make big cuts (like when making convertibles out of coupes). Use the wire brush to remove paint. Use the polishing wheel to buff out rough spots in paint.
> The Dremel is unmatched and by far the most useful tool to a customizer.
>
> Paint:
> Here's one area where I have found little agreement.
> I admit most of the customs I've seen done with an airbrush look very nice. The paint is deep, shiny, beautiful. But those airbrushes ain't cheap. Don't get the really cheap one at Wal Mart. I know personally that it isn't worth it.
> If you're going to get an airbrush, invest some money and get a good one. You'll have to ask around about what's good and bad. I don't know.
> Many people swear by Testor's model paint. Particularly Boyd's colors. I don't like it. The cans run out too soon, they cost too much and I find the nozzles clog up too often.
> I like to use real automotive paint. I buy it at the local parts stores in big cans and pay about the same price. I use automotive primer, automotive touch-up paint and automotive clear-coat. So far I've pretty good success with it. Not as good as airbrushed examples, but I'm satisfied.
> You'll need some model paints and brushes to do detail work too. I found the Testors brushes to be about as bad as their paints. Pay a little extra and get a brush from the art department of WalMart. Get a really find point to do tiny work and a larger one to do larger areas. You'll also need some kind of paint remover to clean your brushes.
>
> Other:
> To remove paint, I found that Nybco Off Paint and Varnish Remover available at WalMart for about $3 a can works best. Just spray it on and leave it for a couple of hours then put the car under water and wash it off! It's usually that simple. Matchboxes are always that simple, Hot Wheels are sometimes more difficult to get clean. Usually not, but sometimes.
> For putting cars back together use either JB Weld or Superglue.
> You'll also need some type of rack to paint on. I just take a wire coat hanger and twist it around to make a little rack to hold mine. Works great.
>
> Method:
> Choose your car wisely. Make sure it's one you're going to like for a while. You'll be spending some time with it. If it's your first one, don't try to get fancy with it. Keep it a simple re-paint, maybe a wheel change.
> Remove the car from the blister (I swear it doesn't hurt). The play with it a little bit. Get a feel for the car. Get to know the shapes of it. The new 1997 FE Corvette is a very nicely shaped car with the right paint. Then decide what color you'll paint it.
> Then take your Dremel with the drill bit and drill out the rivets on the bottom. Take your time with it and you won't mar the base or your fingers. Don't drill too deep, you want to leave some of the post so that gluing it back together will be easier.
> Then remove the windows, interior and base. Make sure to keep these. I am currently searching for several windshields I lost. Lost windows make your custom look rather cheap, trust me.
>
> The Strip Show
> To remove paint, I usually put the car in a tin pie plate. Spray it down liberally with the paint remover. Make sure you hit the sides, front and back. Let it sit a while. I'd do this outside where no animals can get to it, too. It doesn't smell too good and is probably rather toxic.
>
> Look mom, no wheels!
> While the paint's coming off, remove the wheels if you want. They are usually held on by metal tabs on the base. On one side of the axle is one tab, the other side has two. I've found that if you remove the one tab with your drill bit, the wheels are easier to put back on later.
> You can then paint the base if you wish.
> After sitting a while, rinse off the remover and paint from your car. If there is still paint left (and there always will be) remove it using your wire brush on your Dremel. You can also use sandpaper but at the risk of losing your fingertips.
> Once all the paint is removed from the car, paying close attention to the detail lines and grille openings and such, wash it off again and dry it. Some people like to clean their cars of fingerprints with alcohol. Either way, make sure it's good and dry before putting on the primer.
>
> Prime time
> For primer, you can either buy real automotive primer (though I'm starting to not like it as well) or just use flat spray paint from Wal Mart. Get the cheap stuff for about $1 a can. Use black or another dark color under dark paint and light primer under lighter paint. Spray it down real good, making sure to get all the sides and ends.
> Let this dry real well before moving or painting.
>
> Shades of the rainbow
> When it's good and dry, put a thin layer of paint on the car. Keep putting several layers of paint on with about 5 minutes between each coat. When you think you've got enough paint, wait an hour and put on your clear coat. At first, only spray a little clear coat.
> Let this dry for 24 hours.
>
> Details, details
> When dry, it's time to do some detailing. Do the lights, dashboard, pinstripes, whatever! Have fun with it!
> When you've let your detailing dry, clear coat it again. and again. and again. I don't think you can have enough clearcoat. Let it dry really well before you begin to put it back together.
> You'll see lots of customs with flames and stripes. Many of these come from HotHeadz ( http://www.winonaweb.com/hotheadz/ ). They make some very nice decals. But, it is possible to create your own self-done flames using tape and lots of patience. You can also buy blank decal and blank sticker paper to run through your inkjet printer.
> I'm just about to begin printing my own decals. I'll update this with the results as soon as I do.
>
> Free wheeling
> Most Hot Wheels come with pretty drab wheels. To get around this can be as simple as painting them to match the body or as complicated as ripping apart an older Real Rider. Matchboxes seem to have much wider castings than Hot Wheels. To get Hot Wheel wheels to fit Matchboxes takes some work. I like to heat up the axle ends and pull the plastic wheels over it. Though quick, this method unfortunately usually results in a wheel that won't turn. I've heard you can remove the wheels completely and use very stiff wire or even cut the axles and extend them with small metal tubing. I have tried neither method though. Next time you're cruising the pegs at Wal Mart be on the lookout for cool wheels for your next custom. Racing Champions cars can sometimes be found as cheap as Hot Wheels and have nice wheels.
>
> Coming together
> After you've painted it all, detailed it, clear coated it and let it dry, it's time to put your masterpiece back together. To hold all the parts together as one again, I use JB Weld. It will hold the axles, the body, the glass, etc. Just be careful around plastic parts, especially the glass. Any type of adhesive will ruin plastic.
>
>
> That's about it. Good luck with it and feel free to write and ask for help or to offer suggestions or additions to this FAQ.
>
>
> © 1998 Speed Demon Publications
> Visit Speed's Garage!
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/1842
--
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http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/1842
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