Isn't the qu-ax 48 hole?
If so that won't fit his rim.
EDIT: Watched the video, and realized that it doesn't say Qu-ax
anywhere.
Dunno where I got that idea, the uni looks like the nimbus MUni judging
by the crappy rim, in which case it could be 36 hole OR 48 hole.
Tell us if you can get a discount on that crankset, cody:D
While you're at it you might want to get a wider rim too.
--
hobo_chuck
"hobo_chuck" wrote:
> *HOLY* son of a bike rider:eek:
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It's certainly not any of the big brands, but I'm pretty sure there are
other 10 spline manufacturers(torker dx?).
In any case it makes it difficult to find replacement parts.
--
feel the light
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you are wrong.
you need a new crank arm, it looks to me as if the crank arm has become
worn from taking it off too much. i had several sets of cotterless
cranks do the same thing.
you know what... swap the cranks and see if that helps... it will
narrow it down for you as well.
--
skrobo
><> Unicycle For Christ <><
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Trouble is, the worn splines will mean that there will still be a
little play, and he would soon be worst off then now. Because it is
not tapered spline, there is no way for a new crank to take up all the
slack.
Be sure to grease your crank splines, and don't ride it if it has play,
until it can be fixed.
--
feel the light
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I'm also betting it's just the cranks. The stock ones are known for
bending, but I haven't heard of any wobbling like that. Maybe you
didn't tighten them all the way when you put them back on after
removing them, or some grease got on the threads.
Do what skrobro suggested and turn your wheel around in the frame, so
the left crank is again on the left side of the frame. If it is still
the same crank that's wobbling, then you need a new crank. If the
other side is now wobbling you need a new hub, maybe cranks too.
--
skilewis74
Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you
are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the
time do it along the way.- Bob Burnquist
What next? 'IUF skill levels'
(http://www.unicycling.org/iuf/levels/)*'
Street'
(http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/The_Unicyclopedia/Street)*'unicycletips.com'
(http://unicycletips.com/)*'Trials class system'
(http://tinyurl.com/yqpvxk)*'Trials Building'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64235)
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Trying the crank from the other side sounds like a good idea. Thanks,
Skrobo and everybody. Cody, do you want to come over and use my tools.
I've been looking for an excuse to buy an ISIS crank extractor.
--
kevinalexandersmith
Temporarily out of service
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--
feel the light
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that's agood question I would also like to know
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Nicf
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We used my rubber mallet when we put it back on. That got it nice and
snug. With out any contact from the head deep axle bolt it came loose
again immediately. Washers or something might work but they’d have to
have that funny squiggly ISIS shape to fit down past the hub and push
on the squiggly flanges of the crank. It would be real hard to find
something the right shape.
I don’t have Cody’s Uni with me. He’s at work but I’m going to take
the axle bolt off mine and see what it looks like.
Thanks again for everybody’s help.
--
kevinalexandersmith
Temporarily out of service
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codybee
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The fact that the other crank didn’t move is great news. That means
you hub is probably fine. Thank goodness. I know from looking it the
crank you need a new one.
Sine the crank came installed from UDC, either the crank was bad or
they installed it wrong. Either way, I think UDC should send you new
cranks or give you a big discount on a pair of KH cranks.
--
kevinalexandersmith
http://www.youtube.com/user/KevinAlexanderSmith
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