Need to help learning about Strings...
Greg Clarke
I am trying to learn more about strings. I understand the the larger
the number the thinner the strings. But does a thinner string (say 17
vs 16) really provide a better feel or control? Do the so called
topspin strings really improve spin? How does the tension affect
string performance, durability, spin, playablility or feel? I am
really trying to learn about strings and how they affect the
performance of the raquet. Any help is greatly appreciated. I have
read the FAQ but am looking for more in depth and detailed
information. I would also be interested in hearing personal
experiances. I am also concerned on how often I should replace my
strings (at least when I haven't broken one).
To give a little background on how I play... I am mainly a baseliner
with a lot of power. I often have to remember to not swing so hard.
I am learning more control and this allows me to swing naturally, but
I still need more control.
Any and all help and advice is welcome and appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Greg
Steve Peterson
>
>I am trying to learn more about strings. I understand the the larger
>the number the thinner the strings.
Correct.
>But does a thinner string (say 17
>vs 16) really provide a better feel or control?
I think so. I have used 17 gauge string for years because of the
better feel. The thinner string bites the ball better.
>Do the so called
>topspin strings really improve spin?
They can have some effect, as can using thinner gauge string. Don't
expect to suddenly hit with tons of spin if you normally hit flat,
though.
>How does the tension affect
>string performance, durability, spin, playablility or feel?
The general rule is: String tight for control, loose for power. I
think you get better "feel" from looser strings, but this is a very
subjective matter. I am aware of very little information comparing
string tension with durability, except to say that if you string VERY
tight, durability will suffer.
>I am
>really trying to learn about strings and how they affect the
>performance of the raquet. Any help is greatly appreciated. I have
>read the FAQ but am looking for more in depth and detailed
>information. I would also be interested in hearing personal
>experiances. I am also concerned on how often I should replace my
>strings (at least when I haven't broken one).
The Uniter States Racquet Stringers Association (USRSA) recommends
that you restring as many times in a year as you play in a week. If
you play twice a week, restring at least every six months.
I personally prefer to play with new strings, so I restring every
week, even if my strings haven't broken. Of course I string for
myself, so the cost isn't very high.
>To give a little background on how I play... I am mainly a baseliner
>with a lot of power. I often have to remember to not swing so hard.
>I am learning more control and this allows me to swing naturally, but
>I still need more control.
Consult your stringer, preferrably one who is USRSA certified. He or
she can give you the best advice.
Steve Peterson
USRSA Certified Racquet Stringer
Alan Vinh
Greg,
I'm no string expert but this is what I know from researching, and
testing various strings:
- Thinner gauge strings (larger numbers) catch/grip the ball better at
contact hence better feel/control for spins (slice/top).
- "Topspin" strings have actual weaves in them to catch/grip the ball better
for the spin (even for thicker gauge strings - because it is built in).
- For more control use higher tension, for more power use lower tension
when stringing your racquets. The lower tension causes the ball to
come off your string faster, acting like a trampoline helping you push the
ball back to the other court hence you don't have to hit so hard. The
higher tension leaves the ball on your string a little longer (in msecs)
giving you more time for direction & spins but you'll have to hit a
little harder.
- Higher tension means more shock to your arm/elbow, lower tension means more
comfort when hitting the ball (less stress/shock to your arm).
- Durable strings are generally less flexible and give more shock to your arm,
while more flexible strings like the Gama TNT Rx 16 is more flexible and
therefore helps the shock and gives you more comfort.
- Natural gut is more costly but it holds the string tension the best over
synthetics (hence keeping the control that you want).
- You generally break you string due to friction coming from hitting a lot
of spin, mostly from topspin because you hit through the ball, brushing up
and over the ball. This causes the strings to rub against eachothers and
eventually break. Ever notice a heavy topspin hitter's string after a
few strokes? The string are all out of place and (s)he has to straighten
the strings out. People who hit flat balls don't have this problem as much.
The main strings are the ones that usually break because they move the most
due to spins (the cross strings are already going "with" the spins).
- As a general rule, you should at LEAST restring your racquets as much
as you play during a week (eg. if you play twice a week, then you should
restring at LEAST twice a year). I play a lot of tennis and break my strings
a lot due to my topspins so I don't have the luxury to wait that long.
However, after a stringing job the tension is always best (for a few
hours anyways), after that you loose some control (ie. loose some tension).
Sounds like you need to raise the tension on your racquets since you
don't have enough control. Or, you can buy thinner frame racquets, NOT
so wide-bodied for more control (if you have a big swing or have too much
power). Wide-bodied racquets are made for people who have shorter swings
and use the wide-bodied racquets to generate the power. Or, hit with a
lot more topspin than you are currently hitting and break more strings
like me ;^)
Try a few strings and different tensions to find your comfort zone. I
personally like the "Technifibre 515 SPL" string the most, for now anyways...
Alan
On Sun, 7 Apr 1996, Greg Clarke wrote:
>
> I am trying to learn more about strings. I understand the the larger
> the number the thinner the strings. But does a thinner string (say 17
> vs 16) really provide a better feel or control? Do the so called
> topspin strings really improve spin? How does the tension affect
> string performance, durability, spin, playablility or feel? I am
> really trying to learn about strings and how they affect the
> performance of the raquet. Any help is greatly appreciated. I have
> read the FAQ but am looking for more in depth and detailed
> information. I would also be interested in hearing personal
> experiances. I am also concerned on how often I should replace my
> strings (at least when I haven't broken one).
>
> To give a little background on how I play... I am mainly a baseliner
> with a lot of power. I often have to remember to not swing so hard.
> I am learning more control and this allows me to swing naturally, but
> I still need more control.
>
an50...@anon.penet.fi
>On Sun, 07 Apr 1996 01:16:51 GMT, gcl...@nkn.net (Greg Clarke) wrote:
>>
>>I am trying to learn more about strings. I understand the the larger
>>the number the thinner the strings.
very correct
>Correct.
>>But does a thinner string (say 17
>>vs 16) really provide a better feel or control?
>I think so. I have used 17 gauge string for years because of the
>better feel. The thinner string bites the ball better.
thinks so man..it does....
>>Do the so called
>>topspin strings really improve spin?
>They can have some effect, as can using thinner gauge string. Don't
>expect to suddenly hit with tons of spin if you normally hit flat,
>though.
wrong ..not at all...once the tension is applied...the outer filament
that is providing the texture is lost.
>>How does the tension affect
>>string performance, durability, spin, playablility or feel?
>The general rule is: String tight for control, loose for power. I
>think you get better "feel" from looser strings, but this is a very
>subjective matter. I am aware of very little information comparing
>string tension with durability, except to say that if you string VERY
>tight, durability will suffer.
ok..give yoou this one man
>>I am
>>really trying to learn about strings and how they affect the
>>performance of the raquet. Any help is greatly appreciated. I have
>>read the FAQ but am looking for more in depth and detailed
>>information. I would also be interested in hearing personal
>>experiances. I am also concerned on how often I should replace my
>>strings (at least when I haven't broken one).
>The Uniter States Racquet Stringers Association (USRSA) recommends
>that you restring as many times in a year as you play in a week. If
>you play twice a week, restring at least every six months.
basic advice froom the usrsa
>I personally prefer to play with new strings, so I restring every
>week, even if my strings haven't broken. Of course I string for
>myself, so the cost isn't very high.
>>To give a little background on how I play... I am mainly a baseliner
>>with a lot of power. I often have to remember to not swing so hard.
>>I am learning more control and this allows me to swing naturally, but
>>I still need more control.
>Consult your stringer, preferrably one who is USRSA certified. He or
>she can give you the best advice.
>Steve Peterson
>USRSA Certified Racquet Stringer
who am i...same as steve....but play colliegtely too..
James Bond 007
Strings...>, 'gcl...@nkn.net (Greg Clarke)' wrote:
>I am trying to learn more about strings. I understand the the larger
>vs 16) really provide a better feel or control? Do the so called
>topspin strings really improve spin? How does the tension affect
there is to know about strings and stringing.
I'm glad you at least read the FAQ, though C.Smith's
FAQ really doesn't cover the full nuances of selecting
strings (it can't; it's a massive undertaking, and can't
possibly cover everything; kudos, to Chris!).
I'm going to presume that you've been playing
tennis for at least 3 years, fairly regularly,
and have an NTRP (self or professionally rated)
of about 4.0. The following are quick facts,
with some of my opinions and experiences thrown in;
I'll try to make it clear which is which. Don't feel insulted if you
already know this stuff; I don't know you, and I'm
just trying to help. Okay? : )
-----------------
Tightening the tension will give you more control and less power.
Loosening the tension gives you less control and more power.
Avoid going beyond the recommended manufacturer's tension RANGE,
usually imprinted on or near the throat of the racquet.
On a brand new racquet, if it's pre-strung, it's almost always
at the AVERAGE of the mfr's suggested range. If you need to
supply the strings yourself, you should start at the average,
then decide how it feels as you play with it; give it at least
ten matches worth of play, before deciding to change the
tension (ie, it might be you; it might be the racquet).
Pros can feel the difference with different gauges.
Amateurs basically can't, no matter what they say,
so don't expect massive playing differences if you switch.
Be forewarned, however, that the THINNER the gauge
(ie, the higher the number), the LESS durable it is,
and the MORE likely it'll break, given the same playing conditions
(makes sense, right? If you have a twig and a tree,
which is easier to break?). On the other hand, thinner gauges
give a better "feel" and allow better spins and control,
and are the choice of the pros (sure, they can afford
to break a few hundred strings per year; you can't!).
If you see strings with the letter 'L'
next to them. The 'L' means "Light", which translates,
arguably, to "half"; so 15L is 15.5 (get it? It's "lighter",
ie, thinner, than 15). Stick with 16.
Differences between MANUFACTURERS
and STYLES of strings can be surprising
(ie, Prince vs. Gamma; braided vs. non-braided;
"gut" vs synthetic, etc). Everyone's experience
is different, but I recently changed to a different
brand (same gauge and tension), and was quite
surprised at the improvement in my game
For all I know, however, the stringer might have
changed the tension beyond what I asked for,
so that it SEEMS that the strings themselves had to do with it.
Do NOT get your racquet strung at sporting goods stores.
They may have the US Stringer's Association
certificate, and a nifty machine, but they are basically
salesmen, and couldn't care less about you or your racquet.
Of course, if you get free stringing for buying a new racquet,
then you might be stuck; I buy only pre-strung racquets.
DO go to a tennis club or tennis-only store for stringing.
That's their business, and it rarely costs more than
a sporting goods store.
The old saw says to change your strings as many times per year,
as you play per week (ie, if you play twice a week,
change it twice a year; ten times a week, ten times a year;
makes sense doesn't it? The more you play, the more often
you want (or need!) to change your strings).
But don't forget to factor in humidity, weather conditions,
your style of play (power vs. control), your finances (!), etc.
Suprisingly, amateurs are able to feel when their strings
are no longer "up to snuff" (assuming they're simply not off their
game!).
Recently, I bought a new, small-head racquet
and had it strung at one pound OVER the manufacturer's suggested
AVERAGE tension, thinking that I'd get even more control.
It turns out the racquet is a quite stiff (for me),
and making the strings tighter made things worse (ie, I have
to hit MUCH harder to get the same results as my previous
racquet; basically, I went a little too far to get control).
I'll probably be forced to restring it a one pound UNDER
the mfr's average, to get back to what I'm used to.
Next time, I'll take my own advice (as I stated near the top).
Well, I think that's enough!
Hope this helps!! TTFN!
--
Bond . . . James Bond