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AC Front Arm Adjust

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Cam

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Dec 9, 2000, 2:22:19 PM12/9/00
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Just got my MC 800 LE home yesterday....all I can say is WOW!!! But I have
a question about the front arm adjust on it....I've never had a sled with
this before. The suspension seems very stiff to me...and the adjuster turns
with no resistance, about 4 or 5 turns, then seems to bottom out and not
turn any firther (I haven't tried really reefing on it yet...I don't want to
wreck anything on this monster). My question is...is the knob supposed to
free wheel 4 or so turns before it does any adjusting, and is it supposed to
be really stiff....or have I got some problem with the front shock??

Thanx in advance
Cam


Nitro

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Dec 9, 2000, 9:03:11 PM12/9/00
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It may not be full of oil..but it can freewheel a bit..after that it does get
hard to turn.....

It has NO effect on your suspension stiffness...it controlls your weight
transfer....the front end goes the same direction the knob does..up to
wheely..down to turn...USE it..its a great tool that makes you go from a drag
racer to a handler in seconds...TIp...park with the front of the track up on a
lump to compress the shock and its easy to turn.....otherwise the effort you
feel is the normal compressing of the shock and spring as you make it shorter
and pull up the front...

Yea oits hard to turn if you are sittin flat..but easy to let out..

Cam

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Dec 9, 2000, 9:18:34 PM12/9/00
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Figured it out...the heli coil in the cap of the adjusting cylinder was all
buggered up (from the factory). The dealer is sending me a new cap.

Thanx Anyway


trailman

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Dec 9, 2000, 6:22:30 PM12/9/00
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it should turn easy at first and then turn stiffer but you shouldnt have to
reef on it to turn it. the piston inside there likes to corrode and stick
(aluminum against steel not a good combo). if you can turn knob up and
unscrew the top aluminum cap off the steel body and see if its coroded and
put some grease in it to stop future coroding. (which should be done atleast
once a year.) there should be no pressure in it with the knob all the way
up.


"Cam" <cle...@sk.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
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Sled Head

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Dec 10, 2000, 2:02:54 PM12/10/00
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The threads rust and that takes grease as well as maybe a touch of fogging
oil after trailering. As for the piston I always make sure I leave a bit of
shock oil on top of the piston when rebuilding.

It will take a good hand to turn the thing in... but it shouldn't be that
hard.


"trailman" <trai...@pitnet.net> wrote in message
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