Thanking any responses in advance
Danno
Possible problems ?
Jetting, you will have to jet manually to run in the mountains, typically
you jet a little lean at the bottom of trail, ride up to the top and adjust
for the top of the mountain when you get there.
Gearing, probably adviseable to drop your gearing closer to a 2:1 or better
ratio. Less top end, more grunt.
Clutching, change your secondary to a 44 degree helix, this is almost a
must, the 50 degree in there will just dig a hole, a big hole.
You might want to consider some suspension changes as well, like removing
the sway bar for sidehilling, and disconnecting the ACM while in the
mountains.
Good luck
Barry Maher <0176...@3web.net> wrote in article
<36F27453...@3web.net>...
You will need rail extensions, tunnel extension, and the track. Depending on
how serious you are about mountain riding, various tracks will fit.
Easiest is the 136" x 1.5". Simple bolt in deal and will work good for all
around riding. If you need more serious traction, you can squeeze a 1.75"
track off a Summit X in with a few more minor mods, or go right to the 2"
which takes even more work. The 1.5" option will be the most economical and
there should be lots of tracks available. Dealer will have extensions if you
can't find them. Look to spend around 800.00 or so for the whole swap.
Jetting will depend on conditions but can be changed relatively easy as you
need to. You will typically run 2 to 5 sizes leaner than stock depending on
alt. and temps. Proper jetting takes a little practice but is worth the
effort. Just start on the rich side!!
Clutching will probably help for high altitude/deep powder riding. Try a 47
or 44 deg helix, and adjust your TRA clickers to keep your revs to around
7800-8000. If you can't hold the RPM you will need to tweak the clutching
more.
Good luck, I ride one and they work great.
GKR