I have been shopping around for a beginner-to-intermediate recurve bow. I have been taking lessons and have gotten to a point where I want to get my own bow.
While shopping around (on the internet, thus far), I have seen limbs for bow lengths of 66", 68" and 70". I am probably going to get a 66". I have been told that the bow should be at least as tall as my nose, which is about at the 63" level.
Anyways, when shopping for limbs, I realized that the bow lengths don't say whether it is for a 25" riser or a 23" riser. What is the standard riser length that the limbs are measured against to come up with the bow lengths?
When I was taking lessons on a "community" bow, they told me that I was overdrawing. That was because the bow was only 60" at 18#. I am looking to buy at least a 66" bow with at least 25#. At this point, I am just trying to get my form right. I don't want to spend too much initially, especially since this will be my first bow and I will outgrow the limbs within a year. Having said all that, could someone tell me if the bow length is measured with respect to a 25" riser?
Thanks! Jeff
On Oct 6, 4:55 pm, TheGrid <sena...@gmail.com> wrote:
> metaldog...@gmail.com said...> I have been shopping around for a beginner-to-intermediate recurve > > bow. I have been taking lessons and have gotten to a point where I > > want to get my own bow.
> > While shopping around (on the internet, thus far), I have seen limbs > > for bow lengths of 66", 68" and 70". I am probably going to get a 66". > > I have been told that the bow should be at least as tall as my nose, > > which is about at the 63" level.
> > Anyways, when shopping for limbs, I realized that the bow lengths > > don't say whether it is for a 25" riser or a 23" riser. What is the > > standard riser length that the limbs are measured against to come up > > with the bow lengths?
> Far more important than bow length is the pull on the string, measured > in pounds (lb) and shown on the limbs as #.
> Rather than buying your first bow online, you'd do much better to get to > a shop/store and 'try before you buy'. Any reputable shop will be able > to give you advice and should be able to find risers and limbs to mix > and match. Have a go with as many combinations as you can until you > find the one that's right for you.
> FWIW, I tried three risers and four sets of limbs before I bought my > current bow - and I already knew what poundage I was looking for. I > finally went for a Hoyt riser and some Win & Win limbs. The crucial > thing was that combination WORKED for ME. Your own 'ideal' combination > will be different.
JJ wrote: > When I was taking lessons on a "community" bow, they told me that I > was overdrawing. That was because the bow was only 60" at 18#. I am > looking to buy at least a 66" bow with at least 25#. At this point, I > am just trying to get my form right. I don't want to spend too much > initially, especially since this will be my first bow and I will > outgrow the limbs within a year. Having said all that, could someone > tell me if the bow length is measured with respect to a 25" riser?
66", 68" and 70" are short, medium amd long limbs with respect to a 25" riser.
What TheGrid said is spot on. Don't make the mistake that you know what you want, go to a shop and try many combinations out. Indeed, join the club and use their beginners bows for a while. Our club, and many others, will have a few full-size bows for adult training.
I don't disagree with TheGrid. I intend to try out as many different combinations as I can without spending too much. I just want to know what the "standard" is whenever a company lists that the limb is for a 66", 68", or 70" bow. I just needed to know what I am looking at so I can make the appropriate comparisons.
I know not all brands have "economical" equipment (e.g., as KAP is to W&W). Does anyone have any suggestions on what brands are good to start out on? When starting out, what is the minimum equipment I need? Bow, arrows, finger tab, quiver... anything else?
Thanks! JJ
On Oct 6, 9:27 pm, "Paul - xxx" <notcheckede...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> JJ wrote: > > When I was taking lessons on a "community" bow, they told me that I > > was overdrawing. That was because the bow was only 60" at 18#. I am > > looking to buy at least a 66" bow with at least 25#. At this point, I > > am just trying to get my form right. I don't want to spend too much > > initially, especially since this will be my first bow and I will > > outgrow the limbs within a year. Having said all that, could someone > > tell me if the bow length is measured with respect to a 25" riser?
> 66", 68" and 70" are short, medium amd long limbs with respect to a 25" > riser.
> What TheGrid said is spot on. Don't make the mistake that you know > what you want, go to a shop and try many combinations out. Indeed, > join the club and use their beginners bows for a while. Our club, and > many others, will have a few full-size bows for adult training.
JJ wrote: > I don't disagree with TheGrid. I intend to try out as many different > combinations as I can without spending too much. I just want to know > what the "standard" is whenever a company lists that the limb is for a > 66", 68", or 70" bow. I just needed to know what I am looking at so I > can make the appropriate comparisons.
Bear in mind then that some manufacturers specify different limb weights and lengths then ... I only found out last weekend that Sebastian Flute (Could have been W&W) limbs are weighted at a different draw length ...
> I know not all brands have "economical" equipment (e.g., as KAP is to > W&W). Does anyone have any suggestions on what brands are good to > start out on? When starting out, what is the minimum equipment I need? > Bow, arrows, finger tab, quiver... anything else?
IMHO Bare minimum is a bow, (riser and limbs) string, arrows, finger tab, arm guard. Next thing would be a long rod, IMHO. A sight can be a pin, the quiver can be your back pocket etc etc. Archery can be as basic or complex as you like and until you've done a year or so it'd be hard to say what will suit anyone best. In my case I did it all wrong, bought a bow off ebay with shed-loads of kit ... all looked good but was all about 20 yrs old and pretty much crap, nothing suited _ME_ at all ... ;)
Spedning money doesn't make you a better archer, practice, time, good quality practice, coaching, practice and more coaching and practice can. ;)
In article <8bff224a-762e-432a-8a1b-5bd227bae...@v39g2000pro.googlegroups.com>,
JJ <metaldog...@gmail.com> wrote: > I know not all brands have "economical" equipment (e.g., as KAP is to > W&W). Does anyone have any suggestions on what brands are good to > start out on? When starting out, what is the minimum equipment I need? > Bow, arrows, finger tab, quiver... anything else?
I started with the PSE Buckeye for $99. Add a few arrows, cheap quiver, finger tabs & arm protector, and the whole thing was still under $200. 3 bales of straw + paper plates was less than $30.
I recommend it as a very good starting rig. The buckeye also has replaceable limbs, as you build your strength.
-- Please take off your pants or I won't read your e-mail. I will not, no matter how "good" the deal, patronise any business which sends unsolicited commercial e-mail or that advertises in discussion newsgroups.
>> I know not all brands have "economical" equipment (e.g., as KAP is to >> W&W). Does anyone have any suggestions on what brands are good to >> start out on? When starting out, what is the minimum equipment I need? >> Bow, arrows, finger tab, quiver... anything else?
>I started with the PSE Buckeye for $99. Add a few arrows, cheap quiver, >finger tabs & arm protector, and the whole thing was still under $200. >3 bales of straw + paper plates was less than $30.
>I recommend it as a very good starting rig. The buckeye also has >replaceable limbs, as you build your strength.
I don't recommend KAP, personally. seen too many issues on club gear.
What equipment really depends what you intend to do in the long term. If you just want to shoot a few arrows and have fun, a "beginner" recurve, summat like samick or PSE or such, wooden riser and glass/wood limbs is a good bet, with either basic aluminium arrows or if you like being more traditional and fancy playing at arrow-making, wooden ones.
If however you intend taking the sport further into serious target shooting, I'd recommend spending a bit more on the first bow to avoid having to replace it too soon. I'd look at something like the Samick Agulla or Mizar or equivalent from other makers, a low-intermediate level international limb fitting riser, with some glass-wood limbs to suit. The riser will take better limbs in due course once you've got into it and decided what poundage suits, and then later you can upgrade the riser itself, if you find that it' limiting your performance.
Brand-wise, it depends partly where you're based, I dare say that you can get better prices on Hoyt, for example, in the US. Both win&win and samick make some good stuff for beginner/intermediate.
-- Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms... ------------------------------------------------\ >> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them. a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!
In article <cjtpe4p07e89jrrv17ts55r3oc79n1e...@4ax.com>, Austin Shackles <austinDITCHTHISFORBETTERRESU...@ddol-las.net> wrote:
> If however you intend taking the sport further into serious target shooting, > I'd recommend spending a bit more on the first bow to avoid having to > replace it too soon.
If he's just getting started, it seems highly likely that he'll replace (or at least buy a 2nd) the bow (and, with it, arrows) within a few months, anyway.
This is why I recommend an inexpensive setup to learn and practice form.
As to "too many issues on club bows" -- club bows take a LOT of abuse. If one is moderately careful, an inexpensive rig like I suggested will last years, and be available to teach/lend-to visitors who show an interest.
Not that there's anything wrong with the suggestions YOU made -- only that they cost more, and are equally likely to be replaced in a small number of months.
-- Please take off your pants or I won't read your e-mail. I will not, no matter how "good" the deal, patronise any business which sends unsolicited commercial e-mail or that advertises in discussion newsgroups.
Having read this thread nobody seems to have really answered the question. I agree it is better to join a club and use their equipment to develop your style and progress through their bows to a draw weight suitable for you.
The bow length depends on the length of arrows you use.
As a beginner make sure your arrows are long enough to start with. A begginer will typically gain an inch (25mm) in draw length during the first year of shooting
If you are a smallish adult and can use 26" long arrows without pulling them off the rest a 64" bow is for you
If you can use 26" to 28" long arrows without pulling them off the rest a 66" bow should be suitable.
If you can use 28" to 29.5" long arrows without pulling them off the rest a 68" bow should be suitable.
If you can use 29.5" to 32" long arrows without pulling them off the rest a 70" bow should be suitable.
Whilst a longer bow gives more stability if the bow is not drawn to a sufficient length some bow efficiency is lost with a consequent loss of cast. However long limbs with a short handle tend to be an unstable mixture.
>I have been shopping around for a beginner-to-intermediate recurve > bow. I have been taking lessons and have gotten to a point where I > want to get my own bow.
> While shopping around (on the internet, thus far), I have seen limbs > for bow lengths of 66", 68" and 70". I am probably going to get a 66". > I have been told that the bow should be at least as tall as my nose, > which is about at the 63" level.
> Anyways, when shopping for limbs, I realized that the bow lengths > don't say whether it is for a 25" riser or a 23" riser. What is the > standard riser length that the limbs are measured against to come up > with the bow lengths?
John Grove wrote: > Having read this thread nobody seems to have really answered the > question.
Sorry but I have, you haven't, or you've read it wrong.
The only explicit question, which you also left in your reply, was "What is the standard riser length that the limbs are measured against to come up with the bow lengths?"
You've answered a different, albeit useful, question.
Which would have been easy to point out if you hadn't top-posted ... ;)
