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Rollerskis: Placement of Wheels and Cutting Bindings...
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Jon
May 19, 2013, 6:59:03 PM5/19/13
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I've been "struggling" with two questions on setting up roller-skis and would appreciate any input:
- On bindings, consensus seems to be to mount as close to rear wheel as possible (at least for classical skiing). I've got Salomon bindings and wondered about cutting off the plastic on the rear / sides of the binding--this gives me a few more centimeters to play with (cause rear plate of binding can fit between fork mounts). Just wondered if anyone has tips on cutting that plastic without cracking it....(if possible at all)
- On wheels, I'm wondering about combining two different wheel speeds on one classic rollerski (one advantage of Swenor's seems to be that wheels are very easy to change). If I'm combining a "Slow" and "Very Slow" wheel, should I buy a "Very Slow" for front or (ratched) rear?
As always, any comments appreciated...
- On bindings, consensus seems to be to mount as close to rear wheel as possible (at least for classical skiing). I've got Salomon bindings and wondered about cutting off the plastic on the rear / sides of the binding--this gives me a few more centimeters to play with (cause rear plate of binding can fit between fork mounts). Just wondered if anyone has tips on cutting that plastic without cracking it....(if possible at all)
- On wheels, I'm wondering about combining two different wheel speeds on one classic rollerski (one advantage of Swenor's seems to be that wheels are very easy to change). If I'm combining a "Slow" and "Very Slow" wheel, should I buy a "Very Slow" for front or (ratched) rear?
As always, any comments appreciated...
ge...@none.net
May 20, 2013, 2:47:10 AM5/20/13
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many plastic binding pieces there are.
Two speeds is tricky, because one is always going to feel lagging vs.
the other. My experience was the front determines the initial feel of
speed. I'd start with the faster there, otherwise why not go equal. The
other thing to consider is whether or not you're lower legs are ready
for "very slow." I got injured trying it, and didn't feel a thing
wrong until afterwards.
Gene
Jon
May 20, 2013, 8:25:55 AM5/20/13
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Gene--thanks for feedback.
I have a small foot, so rear part of binding hits part of the fork mount "earlier" than rear of boot would hit anything. And on "Pilot Sport" binding, the rear part is a solid piece of plastic--that's why I'm wondering about trimming it (but I don't want to crack it while doing so)
Great point using wheels of different speeds and it reminds me of the odd feeling I used to get when using V2 speed reducers to add more resistance (or their old "variable resistance" add-on). Definitely took away from enjoying the experience, so maybe I should just scrap that idea....
I have a small foot, so rear part of binding hits part of the fork mount "earlier" than rear of boot would hit anything. And on "Pilot Sport" binding, the rear part is a solid piece of plastic--that's why I'm wondering about trimming it (but I don't want to crack it while doing so)
Great point using wheels of different speeds and it reminds me of the odd feeling I used to get when using V2 speed reducers to add more resistance (or their old "variable resistance" add-on). Definitely took away from enjoying the experience, so maybe I should just scrap that idea....
ge...@none.net
May 20, 2013, 12:52:19 PM5/20/13
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If you have a different kind of wheel up front, then maybe it works ok.
For example, I once ran a faster 33mm wheel on the front of my Marwe
combis (with wire wheel attachment), and a 40mm in back. I didn't like
the speed on downhills, but it was otherwise workable. But my hunch
is slow and very slow will be different than medium slow and medium,
though I suppose it can be relative to your strength.
Gene
For example, I once ran a faster 33mm wheel on the front of my Marwe
combis (with wire wheel attachment), and a 40mm in back. I didn't like
the speed on downhills, but it was otherwise workable. But my hunch
is slow and very slow will be different than medium slow and medium,
though I suppose it can be relative to your strength.
Gene
ge...@none.net
May 20, 2013, 3:52:15 PM5/20/13
to
I forgot about the binding question. If you're asking if the full
binding is necessary, the answer is no. If you go to a shop, they
ask the boot size to determine whether the rear section(s) is
necessary. If it's beyond your heel, then no. If the binding comes
to about mid-heel, then I'd call or email a good shop to check what the
practice is.
Gene
binding is necessary, the answer is no. If you go to a shop, they
ask the boot size to determine whether the rear section(s) is
necessary. If it's beyond your heel, then no. If the binding comes
to about mid-heel, then I'd call or email a good shop to check what the
practice is.
Gene
Jim
May 22, 2013, 7:11:01 AM5/22/13
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Regarding cutting the binding, I'll bet you could do that reliably with a Dremel-type cutting wheel. It would produce a small-width cut that could be easily controlled: i.e. just take it slowly.
I've used a Dremel to shape some older bindings to fit newer boots. Not the same as cutting, but it worked really well for that application.
Regarding the NEED to be further back, I'm not sure I understand that one. If you put, as you indicate, the ratcheted wheel in the rear I would think moving the heal further back would just exacerbate one of the always quoted dangers of classic roller skiing: perfect grip even with imperfect technique.
I've used a Dremel to shape some older bindings to fit newer boots. Not the same as cutting, but it worked really well for that application.
Regarding the NEED to be further back, I'm not sure I understand that one. If you put, as you indicate, the ratcheted wheel in the rear I would think moving the heal further back would just exacerbate one of the always quoted dangers of classic roller skiing: perfect grip even with imperfect technique.
runcyclexcski
May 27, 2013, 6:29:20 PM5/27/13
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On Wednesday, May 22, 2013 7:11:01 AM UTC-4, Jim wrote:
> Regarding cutting the binding, I'll bet you could do that reliably with a Dremel-type cutting wheel. It would produce a small-width cut that could be easily controlled: i.e. just take it slowly.
>
I vote for dremel, too. Fine grit saw of wheel.
> Regarding cutting the binding, I'll bet you could do that reliably with a Dremel-type cutting wheel. It would produce a small-width cut that could be easily controlled: i.e. just take it slowly.
>
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