FAQ/ Water Plants
John Jones
'plant' them in different zones; on-line sources, etc. I know these must
have been asked before. Is there an FAQ regarding water plants? I've been
lurking for about a year, and I don't recall seeing one.
jan jordan
Check out www.theplantplace.com website. ~ jan
See my ponds thru the seasons and/or my filter design:
http://users.owt.com/jjspond/
~Keep 'em Wet!~
Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
To e-mail see website
Bullfrog Ed
that water feature blends with its environment. Unless you are designing
a formal water feature, the surrounding plants should be planted as
close to the pond's edge as possible. Plants that overhang into the
water help hide the pond perimeter. A well-designed pond with mature
plants should achieve the effect of making the pond's border invisible.
When this is achieved, a pond truly looks natural.
As with aquatic plant selection, terrestrial plants should be
chosen for their texture and height requirements. Plants that spread
along the ground should be planted on the pond edges. Taller growing
plants should be planted on the top of the berm and behind the
waterfalls, creating a backdrop effect. Often, a two-foot high berm
planted with four-foot high grasses can create a privacy border between
the pond and the next door neighbor.
Designs that never seem to look right occur when an informal
pond is planted in a uniform, formal manner. The same or similar plant
material spaced evenly on a berm does not help a pond blend naturally
into the surroundings. As with any pond, your freedom with plant
selection, can set the entire mood for the water feature.
It is exciting to come home from work in the evening and be
surprised by the flaming red color of a newly blooming tropical lily or
watch a dragonfly take a minute to rest on the catkin of a cattail.
Plants add an element of life to a pond. They add color and texture to
the palette. They soften the rocky edges of the pond and provide both an
attractive vertical and horizontal accent to the landscape. As if they
haven't done enough already, they also help provide good water quality
and a healthy balanced ecosystem.
How Low Can You Go?
The first step in succeeding with aquatic plants is providing the
proper depths for the types of plants that are going to be planted in
the pond. A properly built pond should be excavated with a series of
shelves. Most residential ponds will typically be excavated with two
shelves before dropping to the ponds deepest point. The first shelf is
excavated approximately 1" - 12" below the proposed water level. This
will provide an area for marginal plants to be planted around the edges
such as, Cattails, Iris, reeds, and rushes. The second shelf is prime
planting area for Lilies, Lotus and plants loving deeper water. The
second shelf is typically excavated 12" - 18" down from the surface. The
final drop beyond the second shelf provides an area for fish to
hibernate during winter or escape from the heat of the summer.
LOSE THOSE POTS !!!!!!!!!!!!
When installing a Aquascape Pro Pond Kit, one of our goals when
constructing a pond, is to make it look as natural as possible. As much
as we like our BIOFALLS and Skimmers we do not want to see any portion
of them once they are installed. We also take this one step further when
it comes to aquatic plants. Black pots are ugly! When was the last time
you came across a natural pond in a forest preserve that had the plants
lined up around the perimeter in pots? If you want the pond to look
natural, lose the pots!
Have you ever heard that plants help filter the water and reduce
algae? Yes, aquatic plants will help improve the water quality and
reduce algae. However, they will be far more successful at doing so if
they are taken out of their pots and planted directly into the gravel
substrate. Aquatic plants play an important role in balancing the
ecosystem of the pond. The plants compete with algae for nutrients such
as nitrogen and phosphorus. Aquatic plants bio-accumulate toxic metals
and wastes that would otherwise reduce the quality of water and possibly
be harmful to the aquatic life found in the pond. Marginal plants will
thrive once out of their pots. The proof is in the pudding! Spread away
the gravel from a typical marginal plant that is planted directly into
the gravel and you will find a network of fibrous roots traveling
throughout the gravel, sometimes as far as two or three feet from the
base of the plant. The roots are one giant filter taking nutrients
directly from the substrate of the pond where fish waste and other
organic debris settle and begin to decompose.
Every Aquascape Pro Pond Kit we install is "rocked and graveled". We
use 6" - 18" boulders to support and hide the vertical walls in the pond
and then spread approximately 2 inches of 1/4" - 3" gravel along all of
the shelves. The gravel provides the plants with perfect planting media.
When ready to plant the pond, simply choose the areas you wish to plant
the marginals. Move the gravel aside with your hands, remove the
marginal plant from the pot, wash away any loose soil attached to the
roots of the plant, place the plant in the desired location, and spread
the gravel around the base of the plants. Smaller boulders and
additional gravel can be used around the base of the plant to support it
until the plant roots take hold.
Lily Pockets
A little extra digging during the excavation stage of the pond can
provide a perfect planting area for lilies. Lily pockets are simply a
bowl dug into the 2nd shelf. The pockets are usually excavated about 12"
- 18" wide and 6" - 8" deep ( diagram available upon request). When the
liner is set in the pond, it will conform to the depression of the lily
pocket. We fill the lily pocket with a base of topsoil or aquatic plant
soil and cover with a layer of gravel to keep the soil from becoming
suspended in the water table. The lily can be planted directly into the
plant pocket. The plant pockets create the natural appearance of lilies
coming directly out of the base of the pond.
Keep in mind their are some plants that can be very aggressive and
should be kept in containers, such as certain types of Horsetail and
Lotus. You may want to plant tropicals in containers if you are planning
on bringing them inside in the winter. It is best to try and disguise
the containers by encircling small boulders around the outer edges.
Marginal Plants
Marginal plants are typically found along the perimeter of ponds, lakes,
wetlands, and streams. These plants are used to soften the boulder edges
and help create a smooth transition from the water in the pond to the
terrestrial planting areas surrounding the pond. Some of the popular
hardy marginal plants such as Pickerel Rush, Variegated Sweetflag,
Golden Club, Variegated Dwarf Common Reed, and Louisiana Iris. Most
marginal plants like 1" - 8" of water making the 1st shelf in the pond,
as well as edges of streams and upper pools ideal planting areas. Any
reputable aquatic plant dealer will have varieties of marginal plants to
choose from.
Lilies
Lilies are one of the most popular aquatic plants. Their ability to
spread a multitude of leaves across the surface of the water and flower
throughout the season make them a sought after addition to the pond.
Lily pads also provide a great deal of shade from the heat of the summer
sun allowing fish to retreat underneath the shelter of their leaves.(we
use 4-6 inches of soil topped with cat litter and/or gravel as a media
for water lilies).
Hardy Lilies
Hardy lilies come in a wide array of colors, shapes and sizes.
Hardies can remain in the pond year round down to climates as cold a
zone 3. Each spring their stems will begin to raise the small red curled
up leaves to the surface of the pond. Later in the spring their flowers
will begin to appear on the surface of the water. Hardy Lilies typically
bloom from May through September. Their flowers usually open in the
early morning and close by mid to late afternoon. Fertilizing the lilies
using a time release fertilizer tablet will help increase the amount of
blooms yielded each season. The fertilizer tab is simply pushed into the
substrate next to the base of the lily.
Tropical Lilies
Tropical lilies produce vibrant colorful blooms that reach above the
surface of the water. Their leaves come in an abundance of sizes, shapes
and colors. Tropical lilies can be planted in zones 3 - 11 when the
water temperature is consistently above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Most
tropical are treated as annuals each year in colder climates. However,
they can be brought inside during the winter time, if given proper care.
Tropical lilies come in two categories: day bloomers and night
bloomers. Day blooming tropical lily blooms open in the early morning
and close in the afternoon. Night bloomers, however begin to open in the
early evening and continue to stay open until late the next morning.
Night bloomers are very appealing to pond owners who work by day and
enjoy their pond by night.
Floating Plants
Floating plants are some of the easiest plants to grow in the pond.
Their are many varieties of floating plants. Two popular floaters-water
hyacinth and water lettuce- are readily available throughout the
country. However, due to their very rapid growth, some states with
warmer climates have strict regulations against growing them.
Floaters are great filter plants. Their fibrous roots hand down in the
water trapping sediment and utilizing many nutrients. The open top of
the BIOFALLS and upper pools of streams are ideal areas to place
floating plants. If the waterfall carries them over the face of the
BIOFALLS, try holding them back by placing a green bamboo stick across
the face or using monofiliment fishing line tied across the front.
Floating plants can be placed in the pond, but need to be situated out
of the reach of the skimmer.(water hyacinth camouflage the BIOFALLS and
filter the water).
Oxygenating Plants
Oxygenators are often the most overlooked plants in the watergarden.
They are typically submersed and don't grab the onlooker's attention
like the lilies and marginal plants do. Oxygenators, however do serve an
important role in the pond. Oxygenators help reduce algae by competing
directly for the same food source. They also provide protection and
coverage for small fish and fry. Oxygenators such as Anacharis, Milfoil
and Hornwort can be planted by simply pushing a bundle right into the
gravel or sticking them around the edges of a lily pocket.
Plants:
Plants are probably the most important addition to your pond,
since they directly compete with algae for nutrients and light. Add a
wide variety of plants to your pond. This not only creates a natural
look, but also will help reduce the algae in different areas of your
pond.
Place water hyacinth and water lettuce in your BioFalls. These
floating plants reproduce rapidly, using enormous amounts of nutrients.
Remove the older floaters when they start to over-run your BioFalls. The
discarded floaters make a great nutrient rich compost for your garden.
Plenty of bog and marginal plants should be added to the pond.
Plants such as cattails and iris use large quantities of nutrients. They
are hardy and will be back each spring to help you balance your pond.
Cover the surface of the pond by planting lilies. Lily pads
float on the top of the pond soaking up the warm sunlight. The lily pads
will reduce algae by preventing sunlight from reaching the deeper
portions of the pond.
Don't overlook oxygenators! They soak up nutrients and sun light
directly through their leaves. Think of them as nutrient sponges.
Physical removal
Physically remove clumps of string algae if it begins to over
take the pond. Cut away the algae where it is attached. Think of it as
"weeding the pond."
In and around the pond.
With a little thought, planning and planting of the right plants in the
right place, watergardens can provide year-round visual appeal and
beauty. the number of plant options is as endless as the palette of
changing seasonal colors, size, height, growth patterns and even in the
nonsensical entertainment valve of their names. Creeping Junipers,
Sargent Crabapple, Red-Twigged Dogwoods, Dwarf Lilacs, Compact Burning
Bush, Japanese Blood Grass, Evergreen Candytuft and Soapwort offer
extraordinarily low maintenance landscaping with handsome returns on
scenic value and investment.
Now that you have built your ultimate water feature how are you
going to landscape it? The waterfall and pond require minimal
maintenance, so why not landscape the pond the same way? By choosing
plants that grow to the size required for the area and by planting those
that are hardy and site specific, you virtually eliminate the need for
maintenance on your landscape. The idea of a low-maintenance water
garden along with a low-maintenance landscape is what will appeal to
you.
There are three main factors to consider when choosing terrestrial
plants for the landscape. Use plants that look natural. You did not
create a natural-looking water garden to plant formally trimmed Yews and
Boxwoods next to it.
Next, remember your views. You angled your BIOFALLS and the ensuing
waterfalls to face a certain viewing point. If an oversized shrub is
planted in the line with the view of the waterfall, you have defeated
the purpose of angling the BIOFALLs a particular way. Finally, choose a
plant that is in scale with its surroundings. Do not attempt to plant a
tree or shrub that will dwarf your pond. Instead, choose a small tree
like a Serviceberry or an Amur Maple to keep the plant in scale with
your pond. All of these seem like simple principles to follow, but many
people overlook them.
Landscaping Around Your BIOFALLS
One of the top questions asked by installation customers is " How do I
hide the BIOFALLS?" What you definitely do not want to do is place a
large piece of stone on top of it. This will make the water appear to be
coming out of a man-made spillway. You want the water to look like it is
flowing up from an underground spring. Our BIOFALLS is constructed with
a built-in rock ledge, which allows you to place boulders of varying
shapes and sizes on it to hide the plastic tub. We also recommend
placing floating water plants such as Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce
inside the BIOFALLS. This will camouflage it a little bit, but you will
have to be more creative than that. If you are lucky enough to live near
a wooded area venture out into the woods and look for interesting logs
that you can use to naturalize the BIOFALLS and pond. Find a log that
can sit on one edge and place it to span across the BIOFALLS like it was
always there.
Landscaping behind the BIOFALLS is another challenge that many
people face. The most natural way is to gradually taper your berm out
the surrounding grade. This will allow you a larger area to landscape.
If you do not have a large area to work with, you will need to build a
retaining wall. The optimal retaining wall should be build out of the
same stone that was used in the pond so all of the components will go
together. Using concrete-block type retaining wall near your pond goes
against the idea of making the pond look natural. Unless the surrounding
areas have concrete pavers or interlocking retaining wall blocks nearby,
try to keep it natural by using natural materials.
To further soften and take the emphasis off the wall, plant it with
rock garden type plants such as Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum),
Evergreen Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), Rockcress (Aubretia spp.),
Carpathian Bellflowers (Campanula carpatica) and Soapwort (Saponaria
ocymoides). Tuck these plants in the nooks, crannies and voids of the
rock wall in order to camouflage the boulders. Rock garden type plants
will live where there tends to be little soil and moisture available.
Most of these plants have a prostrate and draping growing habit and will
grow along and hang over the rocks.
Naturalizing Your Waterfalls
The pond and waterfalls will more than likely be the main focal
point of the yard, not the surrounding landscaping. Use the surrounding
hardscaping and softscaping to complement your pond and waterfall.
One of the best ways to landscape near a waterfall is to have a
dwarf, fine-textured plant like Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) or
Cutleaf Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina ' Lacinata') planted near the edge,
and hanging over the side. Planting small trees such as these will allow
you to frame the waterfall and create a focal point.
One of the most beautiful ways to naturalize the stones that are
around your waterfalls area is to plant them with moss. Most moss
species thrive in an area that is constantly damp and shaded. As long as
you have ample shade covering the waterfall area, the moss you place on
the rocks will do well. The stones that are near your waterfall are
always being splashed, so try planting moss on them. Most mosses can
live in many of the drier parts of the country as long as they have the
other key ingredient-shade. You can harvest the mosses from a nearby
wooded area. Simply place the moss on the moist rocks.
Disguising the Pond Edge
The 'Aquascape' edge treatment of a pond, which definitely has come
a long way since the ring-of-pearls flagstone look, will still need to
be landscaped after completing the pond. The 'cold' look of the rocks
and gravel next to the pond can be warmed up with an endless variety of
plants. Some of the best plants to cover the pond's edge can be planted
right next to the liner, allowing them to creep over the rocks and
gravel.
In a sunny area, many varieties of Creeping Junipers (Juniperus
spp.) are an excellent choice for a plant that will grow over the rocks
and hide the edge of the pond. If you are looking for a similar,
low-growing plant that will work well in the shade, look no further than
the Siberian Cypress (Microbiota decussata). This creeping evergreen
grows fairly low to the ground and turns a beautiful bronze color in the
winter.
In the shade, Hostas make a great plant to put near the pond's edge,
contrasting well with the grass-like water plants such as Iris and Sege.
The thousands of leaf colors, shapes, and varieties make an excellent
choice and one of the most versatile plants for a pond in the shade.
Gro-Low Sumac (Rhus aromatica 'Gro-Low') is a plant that can adapt
to a variety of habitats. This low growing shrub has a beautiful
orange-red fall color. It will not only creep along the ground, but it
will also root wherever it touches to hold soil and stabilize slopes.
This is one of the perfect plants for you to plant on a slope next to
the pond edge.
Many of the low growing varieties of Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.)
offer a fine texture in leaf and in branch for the pond edge. Some have
beautiful fall color, while others offer bright red berries, and yet
many of them offer both. The best variety of Cotoneaster for the edge is
n newer variety called 'Hess' (Cotoneaster x 'Hessei'). this very fine
textured plant grows only 18" high and is very durable on the rocks at
the pond edge.
In my opinion, the shaded ponds and gardens offer the lushest and
most appealing landscapes. Most plants that will grow in shade will
offer the most hues of green and many beautiful leaf shapes. One
excellent type of plant to hide the edge of the pond in the shade are
ferns. The many varieties of ferns will colonize and arch over the rocks
and gravel. These colonies of ferns offer a very lush and natural look
to the pond.
Landscaping the "Other Side"
If you are fortune enough to have a pond with a beautifully wooded
backdrop, you have some of the more aesthetically pleasing options for
landscaping ponds. In the northern part of the country, try planting
Northern Lights Azaleas (Rhododendron 'Northern Lights') or a Korean
Azalea (Rhododendron poukhanense) in the backdrop. The early spring
flowers reflecting off the water can be a breathtaking sight.
If the area does not have a natural backdrop, consider planting some
larger shrubs and small clump-type trees to create one yourself. Many of
the Viburnum species will offer you the necessary size and will reward
you with year round interests. Most Viburnums have colorful fruit, a
beautiful habit, and dazzling fall colors to offer. Other plants which
offer a backdrop to the pond are Red-Twigged Dogwoods, Dwarf Lilacs and
Compact Burning Bush, to name a few. Most of the ornamental grasses are
also suitable plants for landscaping the back-drop of the pond.
Happy Ponding
bullf...@worldnet.att.net
http://www.pondguys.com
The Aquascape Design Ecosystem
Complete Pro Pond Kits
"HELPING TO CHANGE THE WAY THE WORLD BUILDS PONDS.