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Racoon-proofing & over-wintering

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Boudicca del Val

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Aug 20, 2001, 5:04:02 PM8/20/01
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My new house is on an old, established ravine featuring highly
urban-acclimatized racoons & foxes.

1. Is there a way to have a koi pond AND these rascals?
2. How can one over-winter koi in Southern/Central weather ( 6b climate
zone )
Are we looking at much deeper ponds or something to provide ice & snow
protection?

THANKS!


Nedra

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Aug 20, 2001, 6:39:56 PM8/20/01
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Hello... Buy a Fido Fence... this will eliminate any troubles you have
with the varmits racoons or foxes.

First ... how deep is your pond. If you've got one that's 24" you shouldn't
have to worry. Especially in Zone 6b. Just buy an airpump - covered by a
planter of some sort .. attach an airstone about 3 - 5 inches down in the
water. You can get these cheap at KMart. This will keep a hole open in the
ice ... and the fish and plants will winter over nicely. I think I'd put the
plants on the bottom of the pond ... altho' pickeral weed and pseudacorus
winter over nicely on the shelves.

Nedra in Missouri
zone 6
www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836

"Boudicca del Val" <msju...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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June

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Aug 20, 2001, 6:38:30 PM8/20/01
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"Boudicca del Val" <msju...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6Xeg7.60867$281.10...@news4.rdc1.on.home.com...

Hi,
It has been suggested that digging the pond walls straight down and having
no shelf will deter raccoons .They don't like to swim so making it difficult
for them to easily reach the plants is a good start. Set bog or the shallow
water plants on inverted (plastic) milk crates or built up rocks , bricks,
more to the center of the pond. I don't have but some use elec. fences if
they become a real menace.
best wishes,
June
(PA)
>
>


Boudicca del Val

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Aug 20, 2001, 7:12:53 PM8/20/01
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how do we create the 'jade' water? I understand it is a particular algae or
something?

I fell in love with the ponds @ Dr. Sun Yat Sen's garden in BC... every
single stone & pebble directly from China... sooo beautiful... they lower a
massive gong into the water at periods and *tap* it... suddenly ALL the
creatures come directly for a feeding... turtles, fishes, etc... the water
boils with anticipation even before the feed goes out...

http://www.vancouverattractions.com/sunyatsengardens.htm
http://www.tv.cbc.ca/canadiangardener/GardenGuests/3-092599sep2599.htm

the water I'm describing:
http://www.davidphenry.com/canada/canada21.htm
http://www.math.ucla.edu/~jimc/images/vancvr0105/index3.html


Steve Elmore

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Aug 20, 2001, 7:32:45 PM8/20/01
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I find Fido works even better than a Fido Fence

"Nedra" <nedr...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:O9gg7.2905$FW.382...@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com...

Nedra

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Aug 20, 2001, 6:27:05 PM8/20/01
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Hello... Buy a Fido Fence... this will eliminate any troubles you have
with the varmits racoons or foxes.

First ... how deep is your pond. If you've got one that's 24" you shouldn't
have to worry. Especially in Zone 6b. Just buy an airpump - covered by a
planter of some sort .. attach an airstone about 3 - 5 inches down in the
water. You can get these cheap at KMart. This will keep a hole open in the
ice ... and the fish and plants will winter over nicely. I think I'd put the
plants on the bottom of the pond ... altho' pickeral weed and pseudacorus
winter over nicely on the shelves.

"Boudicca del Val" <msju...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6Xeg7.60867$281.10...@news4.rdc1.on.home.com...

Nedra

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Aug 20, 2001, 8:56:57 PM8/20/01
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Touche' Steve! :*)

Nedra
www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836

"Steve Elmore" <sel...@one.net> wrote in message
news:to37gck...@corp.supernews.com...

Karen Mullen

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Aug 20, 2001, 10:14:54 PM8/20/01
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In article <6Xeg7.60867$281.10...@news4.rdc1.on.home.com>, "Boudicca del
Val" <msju...@hotmail.com> writes:

> Is there a way to have a koi pond AND these rascals?

make your sides straight down and deep. they like to feed if they can wade in
and don't like entering water otherwise. I put a foot wide trough around the
edge of the inside of the pond and then mounded it back up for the plants.
Sorta the opposite of a plant shelf, an anti-critter deep moat before the plant
"island".<g>

Karen


Ashland, OH
http://hometown.aol.com/kmam1/MyPond/inOhio.
Member Internet Pond Society - IPS
Visit My Pond at http://members.aol.com/kmam1/MyPond/MyPond.html
My Art Studio at
http://members.aol.com/kmmstudios/K.M.Studios/K.M.Studios.html

Bullfrog Ed

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Aug 20, 2001, 11:03:43 PM8/20/01
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Trouble Shooting
By Dave Kelly

THOSE OF YOU installing ponds in areas of the country where Old Man
Winter casts his spell will sooner or later have to address the valid
concerns of "what happens to the pond in the winter?. The fortunate ones
that live in regions with warmer climates may still have to take a few
steps to ensure that the pond's ecosystem continues to thrive during the
colder "winter" months. Well, let's take a look and see what options
are out there.

Before I begin, let me give you a few facts about the region of the
country that the country's largest water garden installer. Aquascape
Designs resides in. Hopefully this will help you relate to the extreme
temperatures that the Pro-Pond systems can handle.

Aquascapes' headquarters, based near Chicago, Illinois is considered
zone 5 on the United States cold-hardiness zone map. Chicago's annual
minimum temperatures can get down to 15-20 degrees Fahrenheit below
zero. It is very common during January and early February for us to
consistently hit the single digits to low teens (Fahrenheit) in
temperature. With this kind of weather, it is easy to see why pond
owners will be very concerned about the health and well-being of their
fish. The idea of their fish being out in the cold needs to be put into
perspective.

COLD WATER FISH/KOI...

Koi, over many years, have evolved as coldwater fish, not much
different than the carp, bass, bluegill etc., that one may find in the
local fishing hole. When the temperatures begin to drop below 50 degrees
Fahrenhiet the fish's bodies begin to respond by decreased respiration
and a slowed down metabolism. Basically the fish go into a slow moving
state of hibernation. You will see this happening as the once eager to
greet you fish now just kind of slowly move around the bottom of the
pond. Their movement will continue to get slower and slower as the
temperture drops until they barely move at all. ( It's important to stop
feeding them at this time because their bodies can't digest food.)

This process is completely natural part of being a coldwater fish. Fish

living in zone 5 can successfully over-winttered in as little as 18" of
water. We typically build most of our ponds at a depth of 24" and have
never had any problems. So, yes, the fish will be fine in the pond as
long as it is properly prepared.

YOU HAVE OPTIONS...

Let the first time pond owner known that there are a couple of options

they have with the pond in the winter-time. The first option is to let
the waterfalls continue to run through out the winter. Yes, the majority
of ponds will run just fine in the winter-time. The normally
snow-covered and dormant landscape takes on a great effect when the
waterfalls is left running. Spectacular ice sculptures form around the
waterfalls as it cascades down the rocks and flows beneath the sheet of
ice that covers the pond. But, keep in mind that there are a few
limitations that need the be taken into consideration before trying to
leave the waterfalls running. We will discuss those in a minute.

The second option is to shut the system down and take a few measures to

prepare it for the winter. This is the extremely low maintenance option
and is a very effective way of ensuring the fish will survive the winter
months. Maintenance is usually the determining factor whether a pond
owner keeps their pond running in the winter.The primary maintenance
responsibility in the winter is to make sure their is enough water for
the pumps) to operate properly.

CONDITIONS THAT AFFECT YOUR WATER SUPPLY

There are a few conditions that affect the amount of water available to

the pump. The first is the layer of ice that forms across the surface of
the pond. Ponds in Chicago(zone 5) typically experience ice no more than
6 inches thick. Generally, this will not cause any problems. The ice
layer will be thickest in the middle of the pond and thinner along the
edges where the ground insulates the sides. The thickness of ice
directly in the front of the skimmer will also be thinner due to the
rushing water traveling into the skimmer door. the weir flap on the
skimmer door, if needed, can be removed during the winter to allow more
water to flow into the skimmer.

The second is the ice sculptures that form around the waterfalls also
"lock up" water that was once available to the pump. Evaporation is
another culprit and still tsakes place in the cold of the winter,
although not as quickly as in the hot summer months. Normally, adding
water in the summer is not too troublesome. The difficulty with manually
filling the pond during the winter months is that the usual water supply
options are now not available. Outdoor water spigots are turned off
during the winter months to prevent pipes from cracking.

The Aquascape's WFV200, automatic water fill valve system will not
operate during the winter. (Please note that there is no winter
preparation for the water fill system other than disconnecting it from
the spigot on the house or having it blown out while preparing your
sprinkler system for winter) Most pond owners who run their system find
an alternate source to fill their pond. Water can be supplied via a hose
run from inside the house or multiple trips back and forth with 5-gallon
bucket, a practice I am very familiar with. The amount of times a pond
owner will have to add water will depend on how extreme the winter
is.Generally it is not uncommon to have to go out once or twice a month
during the winter to "top-off" the pond.

Pump size and the elevation change of the waterfalls are also important

in the ability to run the waterfalls during winter.We have found that
pumps producing 2,000 gallons or more, such as the Aquascapes Pump
(2759 gph) is usually the minimum flow rate to keep the water-fall
operating. Don't worry, water moving at this speed will not freeze in
the pipes.

AVOID SLOW MOVING STREAMS

What you do have to be concerned about is slow-moving streams with
little elevation change. Streams such as these tend to form ice dams
causing water to back up, if the waterbacks up enough it will travel
over the edge of the liner, causing the pond to leak. Let the first time
pond owner who wishes to run their waterfalls know that they will need
to keep a close eye on their pond during extremely low temperatures. They
may not be able to run their pond during the winter if problems occur.
They should then follow the shut down procedure listed below.

SHUT 'Em DOWN

Approximately 70 % of our pond owners here in chicago shut their
waterfalls down for the winter. This is a very easy procedure.

The first step is to turn off the pump to the waterfalls and disconnect

the checkvalve from the flexible P.V.C. plumbing. Disconnecting the
check valve will allow the water to back flush from the BIOFALLS. Do not
worry about any remaining water in the plumbing or filters. They will
not crack or be damaged from the expansion of freezing water.Once the
check valve has been disconnected from the plumbing line, the pump can
be removed.

The pump should be stored in a bucket of water and kept in a protected
area. The water will help keep the pump's seals from drying or cracking.
It is also a good practice (but not necessary) to take the pump out of
the bucket and turn it on once a month. This will prevent the rare
occasion when rust seizes the pump. The pump only needs to be run for a
few seconds and can then be placed back in the bucket.

The waterfalls, when operating, provide an excellent source for oxygen
to enter the water and any undesirable gases to be released into the
atmosphere. Now that we have shut the waterfalls off, we will need to
provide an alternate means to balance the proper gas exchange. This can
easily be accomplished using a de-icer fountain kit. The de-icer
fountain kit is a small pump about the size of your fist.

The pump sits in a small strainer basket an the second shelve
approximately 12" below the surface of the pond. A small fountainhead is
attached to the pump and set so it agitates the surface of the water.
The de-icer fountain kit will keep a hole open in temperatures down to
the low teens. The Aquascape pump can also be placed in a straing bucket
or bucket with rocks surrounding the impeller. Unlike smaller pumps it
will always keep a hole open in the ice.

A back-up option for those living in zone 5 or colder is to also have a

floating heater on hand. The floating heater is set into the water near
the de-icer fountain kit, but no closer than 2 feet, since pump move
ment will pull the heated water away. The heater should only be plugged
in when temperatures become too extreme for the de-icer fountain kit to
keep a hole open in the ice. The heater, at 1250 watts can create
expensive electric bills. It has an internal thermostat that only turns
on when necessary , but can still use a lot of electricity. On a positive
note, the de-icer fountain kit is a very small efficient pump and costs
no more than $7.00 per month to operate.

CLEAN Em UP
There are a few basic cleaning steps, weather you shut the pond down or

continue to keep the waterfalls, that will help maintain the water
quality throughout the winter. All marginal plants and hardy water
lilies should be "cut back".

Happy Ponding
bullf...@worldnet.att.net

http://www.pondguys.com
The Aquascape Design Ecosystem
Complete Pro Pond Kits

"HELPING TO CHANGE THE WAY THE WORLD BUILDS PONDS.

Bullfrog Ed

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Aug 20, 2001, 11:06:58 PM8/20/01
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Algae is a part of nature just like the other parts of the eco-system.
The main goal in keeping clean water is not to attempt to completely
rid your pond of algae, but to keep it in balance with nature.

Nothing is more frustrating to a pond owner than battling algae.
Green water and long, ugly string algae cause headaches not only for
the homeowner, but also for the landscape contractor building ponds. There
are many factors and causes that are responsible for algae growth, and
stopping the growth of algae can sometimes seem like a losing battle to
the novice pond keeper. Fighting green water is not fun for anyone, and
it does not allow homeowners to enjoy the pond as much as they would
like to. Simply put, no one likes a pond with an algae problem.
Thankfully, prevention and control of algae is easier than one might
think. In this article you will learn how to apply a simple, time
tested formula to ensure clear, healthy water.

There are two main types of algae that afflict the pond. The first
type is suspended algae, and this is the algae responsible for turning
the water green. The second type is filamentous algae, otherwise known
as string algae. String algae forms in hair-like chains, and attaches
itself to rocks, plants, or any available surface it can locate in the
pond. Although both are a real nuisance to the pond keeper, and are two
distinctly different types of algae, it helps to understand the causes
for each of them.

Suspended algae blooms occur typically in the springtime. This is
because the pond is first waking up from the winter slumber. As the
temperatures first begin to rise, plants and fish in the pond are not
active yet. Algae are the only organism actively contributing to the
pond's eco-system. And, since the algae has no competition for a food
source, everything is perfectly set for a bloom of suspended algae.
Typically, this condition clears up in a week or two, as soon as the
temperatures rise enough for the biological filter to start generating
beneficial bacteria. Spiking the pond with an application of bacteria
is a good idea at this time of the year, since it gives the Biofalls a
huge dose of bacteria. The rising temperatures will not only start the
production of bacteria in the biological filter, but it also breaks the
plant's dormancy. All of the plants systems start up again for another
year in the pond. With the pond in balance, suspended algae does not
stand a chance.

String algae is a major pest, especially this time of the year.
There are many different factors that encourage the growth of string
algae. Sunlight, a heavy fish load, and not having enough plants can
contribute to blooms of string algae. String algae consumes excess
nutrients in the pond, such as phosphates and nitrates. Having a
sufficient number of plants in the pond will help remove nutrients from
the water. By having plenty of plants in the pond, you can, in effect,
starve out string algae. Also, last year we had great success with our
String Algae Buster, which forces the strands of string algae to take
in excess calcium from the surrounding water. When the algae absorbs this
calcium, the strands break off, floating to the surface.

Once they separate, they will either go into the skimmer, or be
easily weeded out by hand. Although it doesn't completely eradicate
string algae, it reduces it down to a manageable level. After all, some
string algae is healthy for a pond, however, it becomes a problem when
string algae is prevalent.

The prevention of algae is made much simpler by reducing the amount
of nutrients available for algae to feed on. This is accomplished by
having a balanced pond and also with proper filtration. Having a
well-balanced pond makes it much easier to avoid having algae problems.
There are five factors that are necessary to have a balanced
eco-system.
Removing any one of these items will make it much more difficult to
keep a pond with clean, clear water.

THESE FIVE FACTORS ARE VITAL IN ORDER TO REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF
NUTRIENTS IN A POND, AND IN TURN, KEEP YOUR POND FREE OF ALGAE.

1. PLANTS. Plants have a variety of benefits in and around the pond.
In addition to beautifying the pond and its surrounding area, plants
help control algae. They do this by taking nutrients out of the water
that algae would normally consume. Also, there are many oxygenating
plants that add oxygen to the pond, helping maintain a healthy
eco-system. Some plants, such as water lilies, will shade the pond,
thus reducing the amount of sunlight available for algae growth.

2. FISH. Large fish, especially koi, will eat a tremendous amount of
algae. Fish will constantly forage for food amongst the rocks and
gravel in the pond, picking them clean of any algae they might come across.
Koi over nine inches are a definite asset to have in the pond, as they love
to eat string algae.

3. ROCKS AND GRAVEL. When rocks and gravel are added to a pond,
bacteria will actually colonize in the gaps and crevices between the
rocks. The rocks and gravel provide huge amounts of surface area for
the bacteria to colonize and multiply. Once the bacteria colonizes the
rocks, it is just like having an additional biological filter in the
pond.

4. SKIMMER. A pond skimmer acts as a mechanical filter by removing
leaves and other nutrients from the surface of the pond before they can
sink to the bottom. This way, the leaves and other debris will not
decompose in the pond and thus provide nutrients for another algae
bloom.

5. BIOFALLS. Having a properly sized biological filter is essential
if you want clean, clear water. Without a biological filter, you are
facing a losing battle against green water. The Biofalls provides a
huge area for bacteria and enzymes to colonize. These bacteria and enzymes
consume nutrients and help break down organic debris and fish waste
that would otherwise contribute to water quality problems.

Even when you have a balanced pond, there are still some factors
that will contribute to having an excess amount of algae in a pond.
Things such as overfeeding of fish, not having enough plants, or having
too heavy a fish load can all contribute to having algae problems.
Thankfully these are easily avoidable with some foresight. Another
important thing to safeguard against is the addition of any chemicals
or nutrients entering the pond from an outside source. There are several
ways that nutrients find their way into the pond, with the two most
common being from drainage runoff, and also from lawn fertilizer.
Rainwater runoff that is allowed to enter into the pond will quickly
add loads of new nutrients into the eco-system. Lawn fertilizers
accidentally sprayed into the pond can quickly turn the clearest pond
water green. We advise our customers not to have any adjacent lawns
chemically sprayed or treated, as this more often than not creates
problems in the pond.

Algae is often controlled by adding additional bacteria to the
pond. Bacteria feeds on the same nutrients that algae does, and adding
nitrifying bacteria such as our Aquaclearer will help win the fight
against green water. Nitrifying bacteria converts harmful fish wastes
into nitrite, and eventually into nitrates, which plants take in as a
fertilizer. The bacteria colonizes the filter mats and lava rock in the
Biofalls, as well as the rocks and gravel in the pond. As soon as this
bacterium has taken over the rocks and gravel along with your Biofalls,
your entire pond has, in essence, become a biological filter. This, in
itself, will help your water stay clear.

Thankfully, taking the proper measures can drastically reduce the
occurrence of algae. It is important, however, to remember that algae
is a part of nature, and an important part of your pond's eco-system. A
pond is an eco-system that supports fish, plants, frogs, tadpoles,
birds, dragonflies, and other wildlife. Algae is a part of nature just
like the other parts of the eco-system. The main goal in keeping clean
water is not to attempt to completely rid your pond of algae, but to
keep it in balance with nature.

Happy Ponding
bullf...@worldnet.att.net

http://www.pondguys.com
The Aquascape Design Ecosystem
Complete Pro Pond Kits

"HELPING TO CHANGE THE WAY THE WORLD BUILDS PONDS.

Boudicca del Val

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Aug 21, 2001, 11:19:16 AM8/21/01
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love your pond!

"Karen Mullen" <km...@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
news:20010820221454...@nso-mo.aol.com...

Victor M. Martinez

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Aug 21, 2001, 2:40:19 PM8/21/01
to
Bullfrog Ed <bullf...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>state of hibernation. You will see this happening as the once eager to
>greet you fish now just kind of slowly move around the bottom of the
>pond. Their movement will continue to get slower and slower as the
>temperture drops until they barely move at all. ( It's important to stop
>feeding them at this time because their bodies can't digest food.)

Is this true for goldfish as well?


--
Victor M. Martinez, Jr. | The University of Texas at Austin
mar...@che.utexas.edu | Department of Chemical Engineering
http://www.che.utexas.edu/~martiv | Austin, TX 78712
If we knew what we were doing it would not be called research, would it?

Karen Mullen

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Aug 22, 2001, 12:18:46 AM8/22/01
to
In article <9lu9uj$7hp$1...@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>, mar...@natasha.che.utexas.edu
(Victor M. Martinez) writes:

>Their movement will continue to get slower and slower as the
>>temperture drops until they barely move at all. ( It's important to stop
>>feeding them at this time because their bodies can't digest food.)
>
>Is this true for goldfish as well?

yes goldfish as well as koi are all carp.

Karen Mullen

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Aug 22, 2001, 12:18:45 AM8/22/01
to
which one LOL, the one on my main page is just a stinky hole in the ground now,
The one in Ohio is coming along, I just built a stone wall along one side of
the pond to even out the ground for a flower bed and am trying to decide on
what to plant around the stock tank. Hopefully next year it will look as good
as the one in Houston. Thanks
Karen

In article <UZug7.65502$281.11...@news4.rdc1.on.home.com>, "Boudicca del
Val" <msju...@hotmail.com> writes:

>
>love your pond!
>
>"Karen Mullen" <km...@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
>news:20010820221454...@nso-mo.aol.com...
>> In article <6Xeg7.60867$281.10...@news4.rdc1.on.home.com>, "Boudicca
>del
>> Val" <msju...@hotmail.com> writes:
>>
>> > Is there a way to have a koi pond AND these rascals?
>>
>> make your sides straight down and deep. they like to feed if they can
>wade in
>> and don't like entering water otherwise. I put a foot wide trough around
>the
>> edge of the inside of the pond and then mounded it back up for the plants.
>> Sorta the opposite of a plant shelf, an anti-critter deep moat before the
>plant
>> "island".<g>
>

Ashland, OH

jan jordan

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Aug 23, 2001, 12:36:58 AM8/23/01
to

Don't tell me, they tell the public that's how they planned it? Looks like
they need a better filtration system and a chemist to fix their suspended
clay problem. ;o) ~ jan

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