OK, I've got a hole full of water, now what?
Conrad
I've finally finished the pond I've been building. It's about 18x12
feet, max depth 3 feet with a butyl rubber lining. It was filled about
a week ago.
So far all I've done is put some containers of plants (lilies, elodea,
irises etc) in the shallow margins. I need some advice so I don't
screw things up from here on in.
Firstly, do I need to place gravel or sand or something over the liner
to protect it from sunlight and/or give it a more natural look. I
would prefer to do this but don't want to make a mistake and have to
take it out again. Never having used a liner I am fairly paranoid
about damaging it with plant containers, pumps, fish hideaways etc.
I have not yet got a pump or filter but I am fairly confident in what
I need in this department. I am going on holiday soon for two weeks
and my inclination is leave the pump/filter until I return to let the
pond "settle down". Is this a good idea? I also want to incorporate
the pump into a waterfall system which I have not time to start yet.
How long should I wait before introducing fish - nothing exotic, I am
only planning on 20-30 small goldfish.
Finally can someone suggest a source of FAQs or websites about care
and maintenance of ponds, fish and plants.
Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
Conrad
Terry in Texas
http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html
A direct link to the pond maintance section
http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/maintenance.html#links
Also look for posts by K30a
Lots of good links in her sig line
Terry in Texas
Visit Our Pond @
http://oursecretpond.homestead.com
Conrad wrote in message ...
Gordon James
Graveling a pond significantly reduces the amount of muck and build-up
in the bottom of the pond. It does this because, unlike a smooth liner
pond bottom, gravel provides a home for bacteria to colonize and break
down nutrients like fish and plant waste.
Therefore, unlike a bottom drain which forces nutrients into a filter to
be broken down by bacteria, a gravel bottom turns the entire pond into a
filter!
Literally half the battle against sludge build up and green water can be
accomplished by adding gravel.
Other benefits of stones and gravel are noteworthy. They make a pond
look much more natural. They act as ballast against hydrostatic pressure
and hold the liner in place, while they protect the liner from being
damaged by animals, as well as harmful ultraviolet rays. A bottom drain
cannot provide all the benefits that occur naturally when you use
gravel.
It is exciting to come home from work in the evening and be
surprised by the flaming red color of a newly blooming tropical lily or
watch a dragonfly take a minute to rest on the catkin of a cattail.
Plants add an element of life to a pond. They add color and texture to
the palette. They soften the rocky edges of the pond and provide both an
attractive vertical and horizontal accent to the landscape. As if they
haven't done enough already, they also help provide good water quality
and a healthy balanced ecosystem.
How Low Can You Go?
The first step in succeeding with aquatic plants is providing the
proper depths for the types of plants that are going to be planted in
the pond. A properly built pond should be excavated with a series of
shelves. Most residential ponds will typically be excavated with two
shelves before dropping to the ponds deepest point. The first shelf is
excavated approximately 1" - 12" below the proposed water level. This
will provide an area for marginal plants to be planted around the edges
such as, Cattails, Iris, reeds, and rushes. The second shelf is prime
planting area for Lilies, Lotus and plants loving deeper water. The
second shelf is typically excavated 12" - 18" down from the surface. The
final drop beyond the second shelf provides an area for fish to
hibernate during winter or escape from the heat of the summer.
LOSE THOSE POTS !!!!!!!!!!!!
When installing a Aquascape Pro Pond Kit, one of our goals when
constructing a pond, is to make it look as natural as possible. As much
as we like our BIOFALLS and Skimmers we do not want to see any portion
of them once they are installed. We also take this one step further when
it comes to aquatic plants. Black pots are ugly! When was the last time
you came across a natural pond in a forest preserve that had the plants
lined up around the perimeter in pots? If you want the pond to look
natural, lose the pots!
Have you ever heard that plants help filter the water and reduce
algae? Yes, aquatic plants will help improve the water quality and
reduce algae. However, they will be far more successful at doing so if
they are taken out of their pots and planted directly into the gravel
substrate. Aquatic plants play an important role in balancing the
ecosystem of the pond. The plants compete with algae for nutrients such
as nitrogen and phosphorus. Aquatic plants bio-accumulate toxic metals
and wastes that would otherwise reduce the quality of water and possibly
be harmful to the aquatic life found in the pond. Marginal plants will
thrive once out of their pots. The proof is in the pudding! Spread away
the gravel from a typical marginal plant that is planted directly into
the gravel and you will find a network of fibrous roots traveling
throughout the gravel, sometimes as far as two or three feet from the
base of the plant. The roots are one giant filter taking nutrients
directly from the substrate of the pond where fish waste and other
organic debris settle and begin to decompose.
Every Aquascape Pro Pond Kit we install is "rocked and graveled". We
use 6" - 18" boulders to support and hide the vertical walls in the pond
and then spread approximately 2 inches of 1/4" - 3" gravel along all of
the shelves. The gravel provides the plants with perfect planting media.
When ready to plant the pond, simply choose the areas you wish to plant
the marginals. Move the gravel aside with your hands, remove the
marginal plant from the pot, wash away any loose soil attached to the
roots of the plant, place the plant in the desired location, and spread
the gravel around the base of the plants. Smaller boulders and
additional gravel can be used around the base of the plant to support it
until the plant roots take hold.
Lily Pockets
A little extra digging during the excavation stage of the pond can
provide a perfect planting area for lilies. Lily pockets are simply a
bowl dug into the 2nd shelf. The pockets are usually excavated about 12"
- 18" wide and 6" - 8" deep ( diagram available upon request). When the
liner is set in the pond, it will conform to the depression of the lily
pocket. We fill the lily pocket with a base of topsoil or aquatic plant
soil and cover with a layer of gravel to keep the soil from becoming
suspended in the water table. The lily can be planted directly into the
plant pocket. The plant pockets create the natural appearance of lilies
coming directly out of the base of the pond.
Keep in mind their are some plants that can be very aggressive and
should be kept in containers, such as certain types of Horsetail and
Lotus. You may want to plant tropicals in containers if you are planning
on bringing them inside in the winter. It is best to try and disguise
the containers by encircling small boulders around the outer edges.
Marginal Plants
Marginal plants are typically found along the perimeter of ponds, lakes,
wetlands, and streams. These plants are used to soften the boulder edges
and help create a smooth transition from the water in the pond to the
terrestrial planting areas surrounding the pond. Some of the popular
hardy marginal plants such as Pickerel Rush, Variegated Sweetflag,
Golden Club, Variegated Dwarf Common Reed, and Louisiana Iris. Most
marginal plants like 1" - 8" of water making the 1st shelf in the pond,
as well as edges of streams and upper pools ideal planting areas. Any
reputable aquatic plant dealer will have varieties of marginal plants to
choose from.
Lilies
Lilies are one of the most popular aquatic plants. Their ability to
spread a multitude of leaves across the surface of the water and flower
throughout the season make them a sought after addition to the pond.
Lily pads also provide a great deal of shade from the heat of the summer
sun allowing fish to retreat underneath the shelter of their leaves.(we
use 4-6 inches of soil topped with cat litter and/or gravel as a media
for water lilies).
Hardy Lilies
Hardy lilies come in a wide array of colors, shapes and sizes.
Hardies can remain in the pond year round down to climates as cold a
zone 3. Each spring their stems will begin to raise the small red curled
up leaves to the surface of the pond. Later in the spring their flowers
will begin to appear on the surface of the water. Hardy Lilies typically
bloom from May through September. Their flowers usually open in the
early morning and close by mid to late afternoon. Fertilizing the lilies
using a time release fertilizer tablet will help increase the amount of
blooms yielded each season. The fertilizer tab is simply pushed into the
substrate next to the base of the lily.
Tropical Lilies
Tropical lilies produce vibrant colorful blooms that reach above the
surface of the water. Their leaves come in an abundance of sizes, shapes
and colors. Tropical lilies can be planted in zones 3 - 11 when the
water temperature is consistently above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Most
tropical are treated as annuals each year in colder climates. However,
they can be brought inside during the winter time, if given proper care.
Tropical lilies come in two categories: day bloomers and night
bloomers. Day blooming tropical lily blooms open in the early morning
and close in the afternoon. Night bloomers, however begin to open in the
early evening and continue to stay open until late the next morning.
Night bloomers are very appealing to pond owners who work by day and
enjoy their pond by night.
Floating Plants
Floating plants are some of the easiest plants to grow in the pond.
Their are many varieties of floating plants. Two popular floaters-water
hyacinth and water lettuce- are readily available throughout the
country. However, due to their very rapid growth, some states with
warmer climates have strict regulations against growing them.
Floaters are great filter plants. Their fibrous roots hand down in the
water trapping sediment and utilizing many nutrients. The open top of
the BIOFALLS and upper pools of streams are ideal areas to place
floating plants. If the waterfall carries them over the face of the
BIOFALLS, try holding them back by placing a green bamboo stick across
the face or using monofiliment fishing line tied across the front.
Floating plants can be placed in the pond, but need to be situated out
of the reach of the skimmer.(water hyacinth camouflage the BIOFALLS and
filter the water).
Oxygenating Plants
Oxygenators are often the most overlooked plants in the watergarden.
They are typically submersed and don't grab the onlooker's attention
like the lilies and marginal plants do. Oxygenators, however do serve an
important role in the pond. Oxygenators help reduce algae by competing
directly for the same food source. They also provide protection and
coverage for small fish and fry. Oxygenators such as Anacharis, Milfoil
and Hornwort can be planted by simply pushing a bundle right into the
gravel or sticking them around the edges of a lily pocket.
Happy Ponding
bullf...@worldnet.att.net
http://www.pondguys.com
The Aquascape Design Ecosystem
Complete Pro Pond Kits
"HELPING TO CHANGE THE WAY THE WORLD BUILDS PONDS.
Gordon James wrote:
> Hi!
>
> I am an aquarium nut just starting to dig a pond.
>
> I am in Fredericton, NB, Canada (possibly zone 3)
>
> After reading the favious pond FAQs I have some questions.
>
> I am digging a hole 6 feet * 6 feet * 3.5 feet deep which works out to
just
> under 1000 US Gallons
>
> I am planning to put a 4.5 foot deep section in the centre to help fish
> winter.
>
> There is partial shade from 3 trees which have their trunks about 10 feet
> from the pond edge.
> 1 Birch, 1 Pine, 1 Aspen
>
> I am planning on using EDPM Roofing for my liner.
>
> I will probably use a stainless steel or plastic 45 gallon drum for the
> deeper section unless simply a deeper lined hole is better.
>
> I have a pond pump of unknown ability
>
> I expect to let the pond mature for a week or so before adding any stock,
> using the basic aquarium "fishless cycle" and filter media from my
aquariums
> to help build up "good bacteria".
>
> Sand over the liner to help bacteria grow and to protect the bottom liner
> from the sun.
>
> As for plants and fish, I am open to suggestions.
>
> Our summers seldom go above 100 degrees F (40 C)
>
> Raccoons and other animals are common here.
>
> What am I forgetting
>
> any suggestions.
"Conrad" <con...@ceebees.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:sqotft8cl62uej49d...@4ax.com...
Bonnie Espenshade
Not everyone in this group agrees with Bullfrog Ed. He is promoting his
product. Quite a few of us don't put gravel in our ponds because it must be
removed and cleaned yearly and I find the thought of draining and cleaning the
pond every year a terrible idea.
Bonnie
NJ
Gordon James wrote:
--
Bonnie
NJ
http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm
Mogga
wrote:
>Hi Gordon,
>Not everyone in this group agrees with Bullfrog Ed. He is promoting his
>product. Quite a few of us don't put gravel in our ponds because it must be
>removed and cleaned yearly and I find the thought of draining and cleaning the
>pond every year a terrible idea.
>Bonnie
<snip>
Is that right? Do you have to clean gravel every year? Are there no
creatures that will clean it?
--
http://www.htmlcook.com
html as simple as beans on toast
http://www.searchenginescandal.com
m...@myhouse.com
wrote:
>On Mon, 14 May 2001 08:51:17 -0400, Bonnie Espenshade <ma...@fast.net>
>wrote:
>
>>Hi Gordon,
>>Not everyone in this group agrees with Bullfrog Ed. He is promoting his
>>product. Quite a few of us don't put gravel in our ponds because it must be
>>removed and cleaned yearly and I find the thought of draining and cleaning the
>>pond every year a terrible idea.
>>Bonnie
>
><snip>
>
>Is that right? Do you have to clean gravel every year? Are there no
>creatures that will clean it?
If your climate is warm enough to keep Malaysian trumpet snails alive
they will keep the gravel reasonably clean for a good long time. But
if you are not fortunate enough to live somewhere tropical the gravel
will need to be cleaned, otherwise decoposition will set in and it
will become anaerobic, and that is toxic to your fish.
On the other hand, the gravel need not be all that dificult to clean,
I don't want to recomend a method here since I don't use gravel in my
pond, but there are many devices for aquaria tha could be translated
to ponds...
Laura Linz
been a big deal. I just drain a little of the surface water into a kiddie
pool and move the fish in there temporarily, then I use a clean broom to
really stir up the bottom. This makes a muddy mess, and I pump most of it
out into the garden, shop vac the rest, refill, dechlor and move the fish
back in. I do it maybe once a year, and last year with my biofilter and
plants in full gear, I didn't have enough muck to bother. I just stirred it
up and did a 50% water change. The full over haul takes me about 4 hours
once a year, but most of that time is spent waiting for the pond to drain
and refill. My water is usually clear, and my 7 goldfish are now 4 years
old. I don't have koi, so I don't know if they require more pristine
conditions, and I rarely test my water unless something seems wrong.
(ducking and running!)
My main pond is only 8x8, so I guess if your's is huge this would be a
bigger project.
Just my 2 cents FWIW.
And BTW, I do NOT have an Aquascapes pond, nor do I have any affiliation
with Bullfrog Ed. (and I don't sell anything!) <grin>
Oh yeah, and I do have a skimmer now, but prior to this year I skimmed the
pond by hand each morning.
Laura 8-)
Mogga <diane...@supanet.com> wrote in message
news:3affd7df...@news.freeserve.net...
john rutz
the old messages for gravel bottoms to seee just how much of
a PIA they can be.
John Rutz
the ol desert rat says no amount of planning will ever
replace dumb luck
john rutz
10x25x3' it took 1 1/2 TONS of rock to cover the
origionalpond bottom.
the rock is still in there BUT covered with a new liner,
moving all that rock just to clean it is just way too much
work
John Rutz
the ol desert rat says no amount of planning will ever
replace dumb luck