field portrait equip?
Patrick Bartek
Regarding field portrait equip?, EGWW wrote:
> comments on field portrait equipment is appreciated..more than head shots
> I will be traveling light and looking at one light and one camera..6x7 or 6x9
> and 400w? thanks
Go with a 6x7 camera. It's format is compatible with "standard"
prints sizes used in portraiture. 6x9 isn't.
Lighting? You'll need battery operated strobe like the Norman 200
or 400 WS unit or Lumidyne or get a gas generator. Noisy.
Another thing you might consider is using the sun and reflectors
and/or gobos ("go betweens") to modify the lighting.
re
--
Patrick Bartek
NoLife Polymath Group
bar...@skylink.net
EGWW
Shoot120
In article <19980203023...@ladder02.news.aol.com>, eg...@aol.com (EGWW)
writes:
How many are you shooting? I do families successfully with a handle mount Sun
Pack on a tripod.
Ron
Western Studios
Tacoma, WA
EGWW
Ron, I'm looking for enough light to photograph two or three people in their
environment....usually outside. I want to be able to use a 6x9 fujica as well
as a 35...phil borges has photographed Tibetan refugees in the field with a
hassleblad and a 400w light with softbox....I'd like not to buy or pack a 400w
light etc and wonder what a strong small light pay be appropriate.....
BlkHatWhtDog
EGWW wrote:
>
> comments on field portrait equipment is appreciated..more than head shots
> I will be traveling light and looking at one light and one camera..6x7 or 6x9
> and 400w? thanks
If you are talking about outdoor portraits, and can do them when you think the
light is best, take your subjects out when the light is best, about an hour
before sundown, and leave your strobe at home.
The Mamiya RB 67 with the 150 soft focus lens is the favored camera of
photographic portrait artists. A good tripod, reflector or two, a translucent
gobo or flag and a meter.
John or Jenn
In article <34D853...@ix.netcom.com> BlkHatWhtDog,
agre...@ix.netcom.com writes:
>If you are talking about outdoor portraits, and can do them when you think the
>light is best, take your subjects out when the light is best, about an hour
>before sundown, and leave your strobe at home.
Yes on the łsweet light˛, but no on the leaving the strobe at home...
the barest touch of a bare bulb flash makes them just that much nicer,
IMHO...
Try a Norman/Lumedyne/Sunpak 120J/Q-Flash...
Clyde Soles
EGWW <eg...@aol.com> wrote:
I think you are overly optimistic but that really depends on the quality
you expect. I've use a portable flash (50 w) with a XS Chimera box for
head shots but you really need more power, bigger box for 2-3 people.
Lumedyne with a medium Chimera is my favorite system. I don't think
Borges could have achieved the same effect with a potato masher and
smaller box.
Jim Wheelock
Depending on what your market intent is, you may not want to go with a
6X7 or 6X9. The problem is they're rather bulky, heavy and not terrilbly
quick to use (unless you've had one for a while).
So it is with reflectors and gobos. Great equipment, but a little
tedious to set up. That and, unless you have sand bags, even the
slightest breeze can knock them down. Plus, you're starting to defeat
the 'light and portable' component of your shooting.
Now, I'm not knocking using a medium format camera and multiple lighting
controls instead of flash... I've lit many a portrait and video
interviews that way. It can yeild great results. But, I've had a crew
working with me to help. When alone, I generally use a strobe... and
often a 35mm.
400WS should suffice in most conditions, although you'll need to shoot
in open shade, dawn or dusk (that darned sun is awfully bright!). Cloudy
days also work well. If you're photographing 3 people wider than head
shots, quite honestly going from a small/medium soft box to a large one
won't make much difference.
One advantage to a few medium format cameras (blad, C330) is that they
have leaf shutters capable of syncing flash at any film speed. This is
particularly helpful outdoors when trying to balance the fill flash with
the ambient light. The ambient exposure is based on ambient meter
readings and will effect the shutter and f stop. The flash reading is
dependent on flash to subject distance and f stop. The shutter has no
impact on flash exposure.
With curtain shutters, there is usually a maximum shutter at which the
camera will sync... generally too slow to allow for an ideal f stop. Too
small to provice good depth control and too small to allow a 400ws flash
to adequately fill.
Of course, the secret to using a 35mm wth strobes, successfully outside
is to have a set of neutral density filters along. That way you can gain
control over what f stop is used.
The biggest question is just how deep into this you plan to get, how
much money you have for capital expense, and to a certain degree, how
good you are. Don't spend money just because you saw someone in a
magazine use a particular camera.
Beyond that...good luck!
jimi