Also I would be very grateful if anyone has any other tips before I take the
plunge and start clicking.
The art works are to be documented so as to be presented to a very
prestigious art school to support the artists application to that school.
(Therefore I would like to do the very best job I am able to)
I would suggest that you use a flood light angled from the side. Used
Tungsten or Type A chrome film, or use conversion filter. Conversion
filter should also be used on negative film to minimize color correction
problems at lab. You used to be able to buy blue floods for color films,
but I do not know whether that is still true.
Also decide how you are going to crop the photos, since most
pictures/paintings are not in the same ratio as 35mm film.
If you need to shoot graphics under glass, this is another problem for
which there are solutions.
Incidentally, forget the polarizer.
email me if additional questions.
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If these images are really important to your friend, be prepared to tell her
that she may need to get professional work. Doing a good job of reproducing art
is not easy and all of your efforts may fail to represent the work accurately
and well.
As to some specifics: I recommend the Agfa RSX (50 or 100) for pretty accurately
reproducing the color of the art. I recommend AGAINST using the Velvia - it is
not only extremely saturated, but also has a strong warm tone bias, both of
which will distort her colors, especially pastels. EPP is not as strong as
Velvia, but is a saturated, warm biased film and will produce some of those
effects.
Yes, forget flash. Depending on the size of the originals you may need as many
as 4 to get decent, even, light coverage.
A polarizer in sunlight will let you vary the amount of reflection enough to
show the glaze without swamping the colors; try various amounts on film and let
your friend choose the effect she finds most pleasing and representative of her
work.
Texture, too is usually important in oil paintings. Play with slight variations
of angle to the sun to show up brush marks and other texture elements. An
aluminized or white reflector opposite the sun will help control excessive
contrast due to the angled light source; if you use foil, the surface should be
crinkled to diffuse the reflected light.
Good luck.
Frank
In article , "Tony says...
To do the best job possible, you need to ensure that your subject has
even lighting without hot spots. You need to account for chiarusco(?) or
highly textured areas. Depending on the size of the work, you may be
able to get by with your flash, but you'll probably want to find a way to
light the work from each side. Photo floods or another flash unit at a
45 degree angle would be a good start.
bill zorn
i do this all the time, have always had great results taking the paintng
outside and hanging it in the shade. make sure to meter off of a grey
card, not the painting.
kyle
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