I'm going to have to make do with me kit which is:
Canon EOS 300
Canon 28-105
Canon 50 f1.8
Speedlite 380EX
I don't have any studio lighting or anything like that.
Was going to use the lights around my house, maybe use a spotlight to
bounce of the roof or wall... not really sure what to do actualy, and
hence this email.
I have a few questions:
1) What would be the best sources of light I could use, given that it
has to be stuff I can find around the house? Also what other sort of
equipment could I make or use as pseudo-studio stuff (like diffusers
or bounce boards or as a background?
2) What would be a good way of setting something like that up?
3) Most of the lights I have are tungsten- not sure about the
temperature of the lights, but I guess if I combine a few, they will
be of different temperature levels and could probably be a cause for
concern.
4) And thus I'm considering using tungsten balance film... what are
the pros and cons?
5) what portrait film is tungsten balanced?
6) What films cope with mixed lighting well?
7) Will I be better off using ISO160 or 400?
8) These are what I was considering for use:
Fuji NPH 400 or NPS 160
Fuji NPL (is this t-balanced??)
Thanks...
Ben.
Wait for a grey overcast but bright day
Pull the car out of the garage.
Hang a backdrop about 4 feet back into the garage
You can modify the angle of the light by moving the backdrop and having the
subjects stand at different angles to the open face of the garage door.
"overhang" lighting (what you'll get in the garage) is one of the better
lighting conditions, you will get a huge soft lightsource occupying about
90 arc degrees off the subject.
Leave the flash off the camera.
Shoot with the zoom at 105
You should be able to meter normally.
I have since learned that tungsten print film is not made in 35mm. You won't
need it with daylight
Just one of the many suggestions you will probably get.
-Josh
"Ben" <ben...@mail.com> wrote in message
news:39912c93...@news.uq.edu.au...
It's a once in a long time thing so well...
Yeah, so artificial lighting it has to be...
Thanks for the suggestions so far. Please keep them coming!
Ben
> 1) What would be the best sources of light I could use, given that it
> has to be stuff I can find around the house? Also what other sort of
> equipment could I make or use as pseudo-studio stuff (like diffusers
> or bounce boards or as a background?
use daylight or a high wattage halgen lamp as key light... white styros
or cloth as reflector/fill light
> 2) What would be a good way of setting something like that up?
keylight at 45 degree, reflector to fill on the other side..
> 3) Most of the lights I have are tungsten- not sure about the
> temperature of the lights, but I guess if I combine a few, they will
> be of different temperature levels and could probably be a cause for
> concern.
jup, use only one type of light [preferably only one or two sources] and
let the lab take care of the colors... do not use cheap mini labs though
> 4) And thus I'm considering using tungsten balance film... what are
> the pros and cons?
pro is less color correction required in the lab... cons is hard to find
> 5) what portrait film is tungsten balanced?
in 35mm... some say none, i say NPL
> 6) What films cope with mixed lighting well?
none, nor will the lab be able to correct it...
> 7) Will I be better off using ISO160 or 400?
400 will be okay for small prints... use 160 and enough light if you go
bigger than 8x10'
> 8) These are what I was considering for use:
>
> Fuji NPH 400 or NPS 160
good choices.. :]
> Fuji NPL (is this t-balanced??)
jup, see above...
++ christoph ++
[posted and mailed]
______________________________________________________________________
++ for direct responses use <zemfilms *at* crosswinds *dot* net> ++
>I'm an amateur attempting to takes some portrait stuff for friends and
>family but don't have a studio nor any of the "portrait" equipment
>that I would like.
>
>I'm going to have to make do with me kit which is:
>
>Canon EOS 300
>Canon 28-105
>Canon 50 f1.8
>Speedlite 380EX
>
Normally you will want to use a telephoto for portraits. Mainly
because to get close enough to crop out the crud in the background and
leave a nice head and shoulders you would be too close for most
cameras and flashes. The 105 should work fine.
>I don't have any studio lighting or anything like that.
>
>Was going to use the lights around my house, maybe use a spotlight to
>bounce of the roof or wall... not really sure what to do actualy, and
>hence this email.
If you try to use house lighting, just remember the color shift and
either use a filter (cuts way down on effective EI) or get tungsten
film. A better choice is to buy a couple of reflectors and
photofloods. These lights are color balanced for photography and are
bight enough for you to work with. They used to be cheap when I was
active, but way back then gasoline was 25 cents a gallon.
Look around I bought an entire studio including 5 Normal strobes, and
all the extras from a guy for almost nothing. Check the auctions,
like eBay and Yahoo. You might be surprised.
>
>I have a few questions:
>
>1) What would be the best sources of light I could use, given that it
>has to be stuff I can find around the house? Also what other sort of
>equipment could I make or use as pseudo-studio stuff (like diffusers
>or bounce boards or as a background?
>
Source of light, use an available window and the flash for fill light.
Or get some white poster board and use as a reflector (this usually
requires an assistant or two, find a cute one, it doesn't help the
photo, but it helps the photographer). Also, for a diffuser, if you
are talking about for the camera lens to give a soft focus, just take
an embroidery loop and a woman's stocking and stretch the stocking
across the embroidery hoop. Hold in front of the lens, and instant
soft focus. You can even make a couple of them. One with a single
layer of stocking and one with a double layer. Try them on a test
model and role of film to see the results.
A background is a lot more difficult. A nice sheet with a pattern
hanging far enough back to be out of focus can be used, or a blank
wall (watch for shadows here). Or try outside if you have access to a
nice park or garden.
>2) What would be a good way of setting something like that up?
>
>3) Most of the lights I have are tungsten- not sure about the
>temperature of the lights, but I guess if I combine a few, they will
>be of different temperature levels and could probably be a cause for
>concern.
>
>4) And thus I'm considering using tungsten balance film... what are
>the pros and cons?
Oops I should have read farther. I have used it, but film has
changed so much since I retired that I will leave that to the guys
still in the business.
>
>5) what portrait film is tungsten balanced?
Don't worry so much about a "Portrait" film. Find a good quality film
that you are comfortable with and perfect its usage. Why throw one
more variable into the situation. Believe me, portraits with your
setup are difficult enough without worrying about using professional
film. I know because that is the exact way I started in photography.
Going to neighbors houses and taking "family portraits". Nothing
fancy, just them in their everyday settings. I didn't even try to use
a "background" other than a nice wall. I made sure the lighting was
good, their expressions were good and the photo was the best it could
be technically. I didn't get rich, except in experience and
self-confidence, but it was well worth it. Better than me buying all
those rolls of film to practice with.
>
>6) What films cope with mixed lighting well?
>
>7) Will I be better off using ISO160 or 400?
>
>8) These are what I was considering for use:
>
>Fuji NPH 400 or NPS 160
>Fuji NPL (is this t-balanced??)
>
>Thanks...
>
>Ben.
A couple of last things. Always focus on the eyes. The eyes have to
be in perfect focus. If they are, all the important stuff is too.
Also, make it fun for the people. It's scary to some people being in
front of a camera. Joke with them and make them feel at ease. A good
portrait is 90% photographer and 10% equipment and the subject doesn't
count at all. You need to learn what to do to make a long nose appear
shorter or a fat person skinnier. You need to pose a young girl (or
guy) so their latest zit isn't showing. A portrait need to make that
person into what they think they are (or want to be) and not what they
really look like. And I don't mean a lot of makeup, but good camera
techniques.
Good luck, but most important, have fun.
Rudy
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