upcoming wedding photo disaster
chris purdum
I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
bothered to learn it as I shoot mostly landscapes. I'll probably use
portra film but I'm not sure which flavor (i'll keep plenty of both
speeds depending on the cloud cover). Based on my lack of flash
experience,(as well as a flash itself) should I use a reflector and
hope for the best or is there a crash course on fill flash? I have a
good incident meter if it will help.
if using a fill flash is the best way to go, what flash should I get?
thanks
chris
Ralf R. Radermacher
zu: "upcoming wedding photo disaster":
> I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>
> I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
> using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
> never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
> I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
> bothered to learn it ....
Only joking, ey?
Ralf
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG
Koeln
MicroDot 1.10 PGP Schluessel auf Anfrage/Keyserver
John
John
In article <310819992222487230%cpu...@crcwnet.com>, chris says...
>
>I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>
>I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
>using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
>never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
>I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
GChuven
never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah. >>
My advice is, dont do this job. If you are doing friends, this is a certain
way to desroy the friendship.
However, if you must, go to a library and check out a book or two on wedding
photography. You still have a couple of weeks, so PRACTICE!!!
The easiest method for fill-flash is (in my experience), use a Vivitar 283 and
medium speed film (VP3). meter your shot and set the flash on full power. The
film is very forgiving on the over-exposure side.
Good Luck!
John or Jenn
At least you recognized youąre in trouble...lucky for you, Karen Simmons
maintains a FAQ for just such a circumstance...˛Am Amateurąs Guide to
Wedding Photography˛ which was created by Karen taking her ideas and
the shared experience of a bunch of denizens of
rec.photo.somthingorother
(I forget, it was a couple of years back and I was pretty much driven
off most of the photo groups last year by the BS from some obnoxious
folks...but I digress).
First, this happens to about everybody at some point.
Second, not all of us were able to weasel out of it (but if youąve tried,
then at least youąve got a bit better chance if things go poorly. ;-)
Third, youąve got two weeks...use them! Burn some film (after studying).
(The broad life savers for a first timer are...f8 or f11, prefocus for
action shots at a given distance, get an auto flash on a bracket for fill
and UNDERSTAND it before you go...if you go manual, then the Śfocusing for
distanceą is even a better idea). If youąve only got one body, RENT A
BACKUP!
Study some books from the library. Burn a lot of film. (Should be
obvious,
but...shoot print film! Use the exposure latitude as one more little
thing
in your favor).
Read the FAQ mentioned above. Read it again. Practice. Pray. :-)
HTH,
John
Don Farra
unprepared you should not be doing this wedding. People have been taken
to court for less. Think of it if you screw up the photographs they can
take you to court to recover the damages, even if you do it for free as a
gift.
So maybe I can help, given that I own the same equipment that you have now
and used them for weddings. The lenses you have are good enough, you are
going to have to shoot this wedding in a photo journalistic style. This
means high speed film and little or no flash usage. Also I assume you
have more than a single back for the 645, you are going to need at least
two 220 or three 120 backs. Tell the bride and groom that you are going
to use high speed film and that the images will appear grainy, but
artistic. Tell them you are going to use both B&W and color print film.
You will want to get Konica 3200 120 for indoor available light shots
(shoot it at 1600), Ilford XP-2 120 or any other C-41 B&W negative print
film (120) for the B&W shots, Kodak Portra 400 for the color shots. The
high speed will allow you to shoot outdoors at f/16 or around that,
combine that with your hyperfocal length focusing will reduce the number
of out of focus shots and allow you to point and shoot your camera for
those quick candids. Film is cheap, so use a lot of it. Also use a
Tiffen FX warm/soft #2 filter with on the bride and groom shots,
especially when they are in the shade.
Yes, you are going to break some rule here. But if you get the film now
and learn to use it in the areas the wedding will be held, maybe take some
pre wedding shots of the bride and groom there for there sake. And to
find out how well the film(s) will work out for you. Also you can use a
"on the camera" flash unit set to auto setting with low power setting for
a catch light.
For the flash you will need something with about 200 watt seconds of power
and can go bare bulb. You will need a external battery pack and a flash
bracket what will allow the flash arm to swing 90 degrees for the times
you turn the camera of it's side. Using the flash as a bare bulb will
increase your chance of success, provided the room has light colored walls
and a normal ceiling in terms of height. Again take this flash and camera
setup to the wedding location and practice with a roll or two of the
various films you are going to use.
You will also need to have a back up camera, another 645 or a good 35 mm
system will do fine. The last thing you expect will more than likely
happen to you, like a camera that decides to go on strike. And don't
forget to use all fresh batteries, camera, winder and flash units and
bring spares. In your spare time before the wedding pick up every book
you can find on the subject at the bookstore and read them cover to cover.
Best of luck, but if you practice and prepare properly you will not need
it.
Don
======================
chris purdum wrote:
> I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>
> I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
> using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
> never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
Mr 645
to the bride and groom about your experience with weddings.
With the Mamiya 645 outdoors you will need strong flash equipement. Check out
the Norman or Lumadyne 400 watt systems. You'll be shooting as small apertures
due to the Mamiya 1/60th flash sync. So at F16 you end up needed a lot of
light for fill flash.
The Norman and Lumadyne systems are manual, so if you want auto flash just ass
a Quantum Q-flash X2 to the system and your now in auto mode.
Oh, and read serveral books and shoot several test rolls to you can predict the
results
Jon
Steve1chsn
>I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
Why are these things a problem? You are describing Karen Simmons to a T and
she doesn't let it bother her!
**** steve ****
Jon
<cpu...@crcwnet.com> writes
>I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>
>I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
>using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
>I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
>portra film but I'm not sure which flavor (i'll keep plenty of both
>speeds depending on the cloud cover). Based on my lack of flash
>experience,(as well as a flash itself) should I use a reflector and
>hope for the best or is there a crash course on fill flash? I have a
>good incident meter if it will help.
>
>if using a fill flash is the best way to go, what flash should I get?
>
>thanks
>
>chris
Have a re-think on this one for a while eh!
Believe me you need total confidence with and in all your equipment
for this one.
However if the happy couple have an experienced pro doing the official
photos then best of luck.
Jon
chris purdum
sorry I asked.
Gregory Blank
I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
I'm lousy with flash of any kind,
One thing to remember, I professional never lets any thing intimidate
him/her. I started shooting weddings 5 years ago. I started with a 35mm.
Prior to that I had 16 years experience in as many types of photography as
I could get. To take a wedding without flash experience is no doubt bad.
I started out pretty much cold turkey, kept my prices low explained the
cost justified my experience,....etc. My first professional wedding I
nearly threw up,....ate enough tums to kill a horse.The worst things you
will experience are as follows.
Group Shots Think How to illuminate 10 peoples faces at one time. You must
do this quickly
even if you work like me ....by your self. You'll be wise to take someone
who can run for stuff. Or
console you.
Open hostility between Mother and Bride / realizing that you will get
caught in the middle of it.
The feeling you want to smash you camera and walk away. If you can get to
the reception you'll be Ok.
--
Gregory W.Blank Photography
P.O. Box 726
Finksburg, MD. 21048
Check out my website http://members.bellatlantic.net/~gblank
Donald Fagen
<dfa...@radar-sci.jpl.nasa.gov> wrote:
> Think of it if you screw up the photographs they can
>take you to court to recover the damages, even if you do it for free as a
>gift.
>
******** I AM NOT YOUR LAWYER. I AM NOT LICENSED TO PRACTICE LAW.
THE FOLLOWING POST IS **NOT** LEGAL ADVICE. YOU MAY NOT REPRODUCE
THIS POST IN ANY MANNER UNLESS THIS AND THE FOLLOWING DISCLAIMER ARE
INCLUDED.*********
Giving legal advice is illegal if you are not licensed to practice
law. Even if you are licensed, it is illegal to practice law in
jurisdictions where you are not licensed. What constitutes the
unauthorized practice of law (UPL) is not always clear.
Taking legal advice from someone not licensed to practice is perhaps
not illegal, but it is stupid. The advice is often very wrong, but
often, it is only mostly wrong.
Perhaps the best piece of advice is if you don't know what you are
talking about, keep your mouth shut.
*******THIS IS NOT LEGAL ADVICE. SEE DISCLAIMER ABOVE.******
Donald Fagen
mean to be rude. I did mean to emphatically make a point.
Derek
chris purdum
chris
In article <37d3ff4b....@news.swbell.net>, Donald Fagen
Stephe
chris purdum wrote in message <310819992222487230%cpu...@crcwnet.com>...
>I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>
>I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
>using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
>never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
>
I was faced with the same thing (bosses son!) and it turned out fine :-)
I used med format for the formal stuff, shot outdoors in fading sunlight, no
flash using 400asa film, 80mm lens and they turned out great. Diffuse light
is the key here. Did the ceremony and other shots on 35mm with a combination
of 400asa in one body (using ttl handle flash) and a fast lens, tmax 3200
and no flash in another body. Most people are only going to want big prints
of the formal stuff anyway and the tmax 3200 made some great "dreamy" prints
of the ceremony and no flash allowed me to shoot without being bothersome.
Best to have a back up body or two and if they know you aren't a pro, you
should be able to deliver at least some good if not great results.. Oh and
you might have to tell people to "stand here" or "everyone go over there"
and don't be shy about telling them what you need them to do.
Sure a pro is a better option but in my case they didn't have time or money
to get one, so I was A LOT better than nothing..
Stephe
Don Farra
the law than I do.
To the poor guy who is going to shoot the wedding, go and see a lawyer and
see if he agrees with me (or not) and report back to the web so we can
benefit from your experience. Or join PP of A or WPA and get insured.
Also if there is any one out there on the web who thinks that the wedding
photographer cannot be sued for screwing the wedding shots, let me know why
you think that is the case... post your comments.
I would like to be corrected by someone who knows this for a fact. Otherwise
I will stand by my first commentary, speaking not as a lawyer but as a person
who would offer the warning about screwing up and being sued in a court of
law. In my opinion is it better to be cautious in this case than foolish.
Don
Mr500CM
>I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
>using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
>never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
>I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
>bothered to learn it as I shoot mostly landscapes. I'll probably use
>portra film but I'm not sure which flavor (i'll keep plenty of both
>speeds depending on the cloud cover). Based on my lack of flash
>experience,(as well as a flash itself) should I use a reflector and
>hope for the best or is there a crash course on fill flash? I have a
>good incident meter if it will help.
>if using a fill flash is the best way to go, what flash should I get?
>thanks
This is why Professional wedding photography is expensive and why they
get a bad name. People think that anyone can shoot a weddding and get
great results......GUESS AGAIN!
Lance
>chris
To reply, remove NOSPAM from address.
zeitgeist
rec.photo.technique.people and a pointer to the wedding
photo faq. there is a good tip on how to prep your 'clients'
so you both know what to expect and neither has
misconceptions. do a deja com search on the subject.
chris purdum wrote:
>
> I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>
> I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
> using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
> never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
> I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
> bothered to learn it as I shoot mostly landscapes. I'll probably use
> portra film but I'm not sure which flavor (i'll keep plenty of both
> speeds depending on the cloud cover). Based on my lack of flash
> experience,(as well as a flash itself) should I use a reflector and
> hope for the best or is there a crash course on fill flash? I have a
> good incident meter if it will help.
>
> if using a fill flash is the best way to go, what flash should I get?
>
> thanks
>
> chris
chris purdum
there is no family support financially and the previous photographer
scheme was a legion of family members with disposable cameras. I
shouldn't have to explain this but the amount of insulting flame mail
is intolerable. I expected to burn for asking a broad based question,
not because someone feels qualified to tell me to walk away from
something that I commited to.
I was looking for info on how to better accomplish it, not how to
weasel out on my friends.
thanks to all of the folks who provided the advice I sought.
to all of the naysayers, I say "Pfffagh".
chris
In article <7qnd4i$ire$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>, <fros...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> I really don't think you get it.
>
fros...@my-deja.com
My advice: Back out of this at once while there is still time for the
families to find someone else. Use ANY excuse you want, but give the
money back and get out of here. You obviously have no idea about
anything. NEVER do anything like this again.
In article <310819992222487230%cpu...@crcwnet.com>,
chris purdum <cpu...@crcwnet.com> wrote:
> I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>
> I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
> using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
> never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda
bleah.
> I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
> bothered to learn it as I shoot mostly landscapes. I'll probably use
> portra film but I'm not sure which flavor (i'll keep plenty of both
> speeds depending on the cloud cover). Based on my lack of flash
> experience,(as well as a flash itself) should I use a reflector and
> hope for the best or is there a crash course on fill flash? I have a
> good incident meter if it will help.
>
> if using a fill flash is the best way to go, what flash should I get?
>
> thanks
>
> chris
>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
fros...@my-deja.com
time to clue you in to the magnitude of the error you're about to make
and offered suggestions about how to do the least amount of damage. I
really don't think you get it.
In article <010919992015035841%cpu...@seanet.com>,
chris purdum <cpu...@seanet.com> wrote:
> sheesh.
>
> sorry I asked.
Donald Fagen
*** THIS IS NOT LEGAL ADVICE. I AM NOT YOUR LAWYER. I AM NOT
LICENSED TO PRACTICE LAW. DO NOT DUPLICATE, COPY, STORE OR
RE-TRANSMIT THIS POST WITH OUT THIS AND THE CONCLUDING DISCLAIMER***
I am a third year law student. The following comments represent my
beliefs about the general rules of law. The law in your jurisdiction
may or may not agree in whole or in part. Consult local counsel.
>Don Thu, 02 Sep 1999 12:08:31 -0700, Don Farra <dfa...@radar-sci.jpl.nasa.gov> wrote:
>
>To the poor guy who is going to shoot the wedding, go and see a lawyer and
>see if he agrees with me (or not) and report back to the web so we can
>benefit from your experience. Or join PP of A or WPA and get insured.
>
Excellent advice.
>Also if there is any one out there on the web who thinks that the wedding
>photographer cannot be sued for screwing the wedding shots, let me know why
>you think that is the case... post your comments.
>
You can be sued for virtually anything. The question really should be
(a) will the complaint survive a motion for summary judgment for
failure to state a claim, (b) what is the likely hood of loosing at
trial (c) what damages are available, and (d) is the potential
plaintiff capable of paying for the suit
>I would like to be corrected by someone who knows this for a fact. Otherwise
>I will stand by my first commentary, speaking not as a lawyer but as a person
>who would offer the warning about screwing up and being sued in a court of
>law. In my opinion is it better to be cautious in this case than foolish.
>
The first issue is under what theory will/can the plaintiff proceed?
As I see it, there are two obvious theories and one less obvious.
First, a suit under contract. The photographer probably does well if
the plaintiff brings a contract action. The photographer usually can
control the terms of the contract. Find some good boilerplate if you
can't pay an attorney. Even if you lose in a contract action, you
probably would do fairly well. The general measure of damages in
contract cases are expectancy damages. Expectancy damages with the
above fact pattern would be 0. Zilch. For expectancy damages, you
have to show what profit you expected to make if the contract had been
honored. Unless you reasonably intended to sell pictures of wedding
and make a profit, the P is probably out of luck. When expectancy
damages are not available or cannot be calculated, look for reliance
damages. I don't believe reliance damages are available. Finally,
look for restitution. For restitution, you have to show that the D
was unjustly enriched. Thus, if the photographer failed to show up,
but did not refund payment, restitution is perfectly appropriate. If
however, the photon does show up, takes the number of pictures
contracted for, but you simply don't like them, it is hard to argue
that the photog was unjustly enriched. Perhaps you can see why. He
spent the same time as he otherwise would have, he spent the same in
supplies and probably, the same effort. In short, the photog did as
much work as promised. Unless you have a personal satisfaction clause
in the K, mere dissatisfaction with the work is probably not grounds
for breach.
In summary, under contract, (a) there is likely no breach, and (b)
even if there is a breach, there are no measurable damages.
Under tort. Its not an intentional tort. Is it negligent? Maybe.
The problem again will be the proper measure of damages. I am sure
that if the negligence was so gross, you might find a court that would
stretch the law to award damages. However, in many states now,
recover of non-precuniary damages are very limited. In some, you
cannot recover beyond the amount of actual damages. The client's
actual damage is 0.
Under malpractice? Interesting. I am going to discuss tomorrow at
school. My gut tells me that photographers are not considered
"professionals". Malpractice is a subspecies of negligence dealing
with the misconduct of professionals (usually construed to mean
doctors, lawyers, accountant). There probably is no general duty of
care for photographers. You don't have to be licensed and take 2 day
exams. This is not a put-down of photogs, just my guess as to the
reasoning.
Think about this last point this way. I offer you $100 to paint my
portrait. I do not include a personal satisfaction clause (which, in
some jurisdictions, must be enforced in good faith). You tell me that
it will take one week and approximately 20 hours to complete. One
week later, I pick up the painting. However, I don't like the fact
that my nose looks so big. I KNOW it does not look like that in real
life! (It may or may not.) I decide not to pay you. Is this fair?
You painted my portrait. You spent nearly 20 hours painting it. It
was delivered when promised. Should you just be out your time?
Keep these following points in mind. The groom and bride likely don't
have an extra $10k sitting around that they want to spend on legal
fees. The only way that you generally get contingent fee
representation is in negligence cases. Even if you proceed under
negligence, consider that the original poster probably does not have
liability insurance. The groom could win a $20gazillion verdict and
would collect almost nothing if the photog did not have attachable
assets and a moderate income. You might have a very difficult time
finding someone that would represent you if you brought this case to
them as it is unlikely that the P will prevail and it is more unlikely
that the P will ever collect a dime.
The short answer is, Yes, I suppose you can be sued. No, I don't
think you will be. Even if you are, you probably would not lose the
verdict. If you did lose on the verdict, the measure of damages would
be pitifully small. Even if a large award is returned against you,
you might not have to pay it.
Just draft the K yourself or better yet, have it done for you and
draft it strongly in your favor. You could even include a liquidated
damages clause. Might be interesting. Your clients would likely not
understand its legal significance and would agree to it.
Just my thoughts and ramblings. I am sure that I missed a bunch of
things.
*******This is not legal advice. I am not your lawyer. I am not
licensed to practice law. Do not reproduce with out this and the
above disclaimer. ***************
Alan
If you have better camera than all other relatives, why not? Just tell the
couple that the result probably wont be the same as from the pros. You have
quite good equipment, use the reflector if you don't know how to use the
flash. Also, check the pictures of the pros on the web, take a book about
wedding photography (I like the one from Steve Sint - Wedding Photography:
Art, Business, and Style) and check posing ... etc.
About the lawyers, you know what is 200 lawyers at the bottom of the ocean?
Good start ...
Alan
> >I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>
> >I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
> >using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
> >never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
> >I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
> >bothered to learn it as I shoot mostly landscapes. I'll probably use
> >portra film but I'm not sure which flavor (i'll keep plenty of both
> >speeds depending on the cloud cover). Based on my lack of flash
> >experience,(as well as a flash itself) should I use a reflector and
> >hope for the best or is there a crash course on fill flash? I have a
> >good incident meter if it will help.
>
> >if using a fill flash is the best way to go, what flash should I get?
>
> >thanks
>
John or Jenn
writes:
>use the reflector if you don't know how to use the flash.
Depends...ever been on the receiving end of a reflector in Arizona?
It makes your eyes water...
chris purdum
fire with one. I have since purchased a decent flash (Metz 40 MZ-3i)
and a stroboframe so I'll leave the reflector at home.
In article <rFRz3.15702$3%1.5...@news.rdc1.az.home.com>, John or Jenn
KFritch
know that they can't expect perfection but that I will do the best I can. The
first time, all I had was a Nikon S with a 50mm lens and no flash. Somehow,
I've always managed to deliver pictures that people are happy with - not
perfect pro stuff, but still enough that the couple were pleased to have them.
A few words of advice - always be honest about what you can or can't do. Don't
bury yourself with equipment you can't use. Better a few wrong shadows than
missing shots or having people stand around irritated while you screw around
with something trying to make it work. Try to give the best possible value for
the money whether doing it at cost or for a little $$. Mentallly, treat it as
is you're giving them a present and you want it to be as nice a possible. You
amy not wind up wonderful, but you should, at least, be o.k. Oh, and finally,
look at as many wedding pictures as you can and see what looks nice and what
you think you can comfortably produce at your skill level with your equipment.
A little research never hurts. If you can do this with your friends or
relatives and get some they'd really like, you'd be surprised how happy
they'll be.
fros...@my-deja.com
I was oblivious if it was made clear.
If situation as dire as you describe, simply do your best with what you
have. Period. Assume you'll be screwed for time and costs and
criticized for photos you didn't get or that should have been better or
in greater quantity. Can't help that. Important thing, now, is to
have fun anyway. Certainly read, study, practice, etc., and use
occasion to work and learn. By all means do your very best. However,
whatever they get, they get. Please do not let yourself be abused over
this. And you will be better and more confident at it, if no richer.
In other words, ignore my previous posts and pay attention to those
more helpful.
In article <020919992138363541%cpu...@seanet.com>,
> > I really don't think you get it.
> >
>
Sofjan
Seems like there has been some harsh word directed to the original poster.
It might be too harsh or it might be not. I my self has done several wedding
for friends and familyy. as matter of fact i'll be doing one the end of this
months. First time i did it i was a nervous wreck. I use two Maxxum bodies one
with either 20mm or 100mm macro . the other one with 28-85mm or 70-210. i Shoot
ten rolls . not all of them is good . several are bad because i either over
compensate or i put the subject in the wrong or unpleasant too look at pose. I
tried to control the pose but don't know exactly what to control or what or how
to shoot.
several things i learned. 400 speed film is great inside the church or
reception banquet. (Fuji 800 is great too i got a friend who do wedding for
living use it 50% of the time) 100 speed film is reserve for the several pose
shot that you feel going to be enlarged. Star filter and soft focus filter is
indispensible. (cliche shot bride groom inside church ,altar and candle. you
vary the theme )
If i'm not mistaken you are using Mamiya 645 . If you are already familiar
with it good if not please please do lots of dry run.
And last but not least if you feel you want to add another facet to your
shot, Bring along a 35mm with zoom and loaded it with Kodak 400 CN or Kodak BW+
it is a black and white film with c41 proces. when propely printed the color
is BW but you can ask the printer to make it sepia or brown. With that in mind
shoot apropriatedly (not every scene is going to looks good with this
particular film).
For examples of what too shoot or how to pose go to Monte Zucker website.
http://www.montezucker.com/
And discuss with your friend about you photographic ability and also what
they can expect and also make them prepare for once in a while Gremlin. Hope
this will make a very nice wedding gift for your friends.
Hope this help and lift up your spirit abit.
Sofjan
Stephe
fros...@my-deja.com wrote in message <7qnbl5$hp1$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...
>I assume this is NOT a joke. God help you, friend.
>
>My advice: Back out of this at once while there is still time for the
>families to find someone else. Use ANY excuse you want, but give the
>money back and get out of here. You obviously have no idea about
>anything. NEVER do anything like this again.
>
>
This was helpful... And "no idea about anything"? Cute..
I've shot two weddings as a "non-pro" for friends who were low on money and
they turned out fine.. Use fast film, med format for formals (I did them
outdoors with available light), 35mm for the rest with TTL flash and you
should be fine.. Also t-max 3200 with no flash (in a second body) is a nice
option to have..
Stephe
chris purdum
and why I was actually willing to do this. because I am still getting
crap mail about this ( not from you) I'll explain further. I offered to
do the whole shebang, I'm paying for film, processing, enlargements,
dupes for both families etc. I also told them that I was glad to do
this but that there might not even be one useful photo out of the 30 or
so rolls of 120/35mm I plan on bringing. (I am confident that this
won't be the case but a disclaimer is always useful)
Here is my plan for this:
I'm bringing my mamiya 645 + metz MZ 40-3i, my Nikon F100 and F4 +
SB-26. I'm going to use this as an excuse to get a polariod back for my
645 as well. I still haven't settled on the film yet. I think I'll
probably use portra 400VC rated at ISO 250 for both the formals and the
ceremony. I plan on using the 645 for the formals, 35mm for the
ceremony and the reception and using the same film for everything.
I'm really looking forward to it and think it will be fun and without a
doubt I expect this will be one of the greater learning experiences in
photography. The hardest part will probably be waiting for the prints
to come back.
chris
chris purdum
<ste...@pipeline.com> wrote:
Also t-max 3200 with no flash (in a second body) is a nice
> option to have..
I was thinking about using Kodak HIE in my second 35mm body, but the
3200 sounds better.
chris
Dennis Bialecki
shoot. Consider this yours, seeing that they are your friends, you won't go
wrong. Not everyone has the money to pay for a pro, so I bet that they will
be happy with what you will give them. Try practicing with your gear before
hand. Go to the church or what ever and shoot a roll before the big day, get
a feel for the lighting, etc.
Dennis Bialecki
chris purdum <cpu...@crcwnet.com> wrote in message
news:310819992222487230%cpu...@crcwnet.com...
> I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
>
> I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september, I'm
> using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is I've
> never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda bleah.
> I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
> bothered to learn it as I shoot mostly landscapes. I'll probably use
> portra film but I'm not sure which flavor (i'll keep plenty of both
> speeds depending on the cloud cover). Based on my lack of flash
> experience,(as well as a flash itself) should I use a reflector and
> hope for the best or is there a crash course on fill flash? I have a
> good incident meter if it will help.
>
> if using a fill flash is the best way to go, what flash should I get?
>
> thanks
>
> chris
Donald Fagen
wonderfully present. Trust me, 10 years from now, they will not
likely who gave them what, for the most part. I was married a little
over a year ago, and I can only put names with 1/3 to 1/2 (my wife can
do better though). They will definitely remember what you did for
them. Do your best and I am sure that they will have at least a few
outstanding pictures and a good many very nice ones.
I will offer a few pieces of advice, although, I likely have less
experience than you. Earlier in my photographic history, I did
something similar for my wife's mother when she remarried. Some of
her favorite pictures were close ups I took of the alter flowers and
her bouquet with a very shallow depth of field. Your selection of
Portra 400NC sounds good to me, but I would also want a lot of 400VC
if the wedding is in a very colorful church. My wife and I were
married in an old (110 years old) English style Episcopal church. The
red carpet and brilliantly colored stain glass, old wood, priest's and
deacon's vestments, ferns and the many flowers all were rendered in
bright, saturated, brilliant colors. I personally loved the result.
I think that you have already stated that you plan on using T400CN.
Sounds great to me. I find this to be an easy film to use. I find
that I get my best results with it by overexposing one whole stop
(which I earlier discovered by accident, if you read those posts).
Also, strongly recommend that they buy as many disposable cameras as
they can afford. We had 20 at the reception for approx. 120 ppl.
Obviously, for this event, you probably want to use a good lab for the
your MF and 35mm shots, but for the candids, consider using an
inexpensive lab. We had all of the disposable cameras p/p 2 copies
for under $65 at Sam's. From a technical standpoint, very few of
these pics were good, let alone, great. Often, the person forgot to
charge the flash, of was composed by a 5 year old. They are probably
not going to want to enlarge any of these to 8x10 or larger. For us,
the 4x6 size was adequate. Nevertheless, these were some of our
favorites pictures. You really get a different perspective with the
disposables. When you consider that for less than we paid for 5
professionally shot and printed photos (by our professional photog),
we got somewhere around 400 candids, they were a great bargain.
I am anxious to hear how everything goes.
Derek
chris purdum
<stee...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> Personally, I believe that you are giving the bride and groom a
> wonderfully present.
thanks. I was married a 4 years ago and we didn't have enough money to
even rent a video camera. all of our photos we taken with point &
shoots and the best ones were polariods! Yikes!
> Your selection of Portra 400NC sounds good to me.........
It's an outdoor wedding and I went to the park today with my trusty
incident meter to get a feel for the light.ISO 400 rated at ISO 250
would be to stong for fill flash at 1/60th of a sec. so I'm going to
use 160NC rated at ISO 125. and lucky me, the sun will be overhead and
just behind everyone.
> Also, strongly recommend that they buy as many disposable cameras as
> they can afford.
well, I'm getting those as well. there is s'posed to be a total of 60
guests so I thought 10 disposables would do the trick.
> I am anxious to hear how everything goes.
Oh man, so am I..........
Chris
Dennis Bialecki
Stephe
chris purdum wrote in message <050919990055037714%cpu...@seanet.com>...
You'll like it.. It will allow you to get some great no flash shots indoors
(if you got a f2 or faster lens) that you wouldn't be able to get
otherwise.. One of the best shots at one of the wedding's was on it and they
didn't even know I took it until they saw it..
Stephe
Stephe
chris purdum wrote in message <050919991829430681%cpu...@seanet.com>...
>
>It's an outdoor wedding and I went to the park today with my trusty
>incident meter to get a feel for the light.ISO 400 rated at ISO 250
>would be to stong for fill flash at 1/60th of a sec. so I'm going to
>use 160NC rated at ISO 125. and lucky me, the sun will be overhead and
>just behind everyone.
>
Be careful playing with fill flash and low shutter speeds unless you've done
some of this before.. This could be a huge mistake.. Also you don't know
what the weather is going to be like that day.. I'd stick with 400asa and
available light using low contrast film given your stating you haven't
played with a flash much..
Stephe
chris purdum
to see what the best ones are. something I hadn't thought about when I
got my Mamiya 645 pro TL was the 1/60th sync speed. I hadn't planned on
using the camera for this kind of job and now my only choice is leaf
shutter lenses. If for any reason, I stay with doing these kind of
shoots I'll get one for sure. I have to say that I don't understand why
they made the body that way but it does seem silly to me.
Question: If I had to get one leaf shutter lens for a wedding what
would it be ? an 80mm?
about the 3200..
I have a 60mm fF2.8 and a 35mm f2.the 35mm might be a bit close. do you
think an 80-200 f2.8 on a tripod would work? I've never shot 3200 film
before. my F100 is quiet and so is the lens so I could probably get
some shots when they didn't notice.........
thanks
chris
Ken Aaron
think many of the naysayers would have been more supportive.
Ken
chris purdum wrote:
>
> No, actually I do get it. the couple who I'm shooting are dead broke,
> there is no family support financially and the previous photographer
> scheme was a legion of family members with disposable cameras. I
> shouldn't have to explain this but the amount of insulting flame mail
> is intolerable. I expected to burn for asking a broad based question,
> not because someone feels qualified to tell me to walk away from
> something that I commited to.
>
> I was looking for info on how to better accomplish it, not how to
> weasel out on my friends.
>
> thanks to all of the folks who provided the advice I sought.
>
> to all of the naysayers, I say "Pfffagh".
>
> chris
>
> In article <7qnd4i$ire$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>, <fros...@my-deja.com> wrote:
>
> > I really don't think you get it.
> >
--
chris purdum
ERNReed
the photos were great.
I'll offer a couple of suggestions based on this experience, though (and these
are in addition to the other, excellent, technical suggestions you've had:)
You should probably make a short list in advance of "must-have" shots, so that
they're not forgotten in the turmoil of the wedding. (Such as the "required"
groups.)
I wish my friend had taken a moment in the quiet before the wedding to
photograph both the wedding cake (which is probably the most expensive cake
ever to enter my life!!) and the groom's cake, which had been beautifully
decorated by my aunt -- and being as it was the groom's cake, was not included
in any cake-cutting shots! In other words, when the people aren't ready yet,
shoot details of decorations and stuff like that.
The majority of technical failures in my friend's shoot came from her TTL
auto-flash being completely freaked out by an overly-white subject (namely, the
wedding dress). Test all gear ahead of time, as others have suggested. Identify
potential problem areas and either avoid them or bracket. Be sure that your
meter is *not* reading a white bridal dress in any situation.
Finally -- advice gleaned from the story of one lady's failure to load film
into the camera at her daughter's wedding -- do *not* get drunk at this
wedding. If it is hot, it might be safest not to touch alcohol at all while
you're trying to get the photography done.
And if I were you I would be sure not to send all the film to the same lab at
the same time, just in case there's a problem at their end.
Good luck!
ER
If you aren't spamming, avoid the junktrap
John or Jenn
ern...@aol.comjunktrap writes:
>Finally -- advice gleaned from the story of one lady's failure to load film
>into the camera at her daughter's wedding -- do *not* get drunk at this
>wedding. If it is hot, it might be safest not to touch alcohol at all while
>you're trying to get the photography done.
If youıre taking important photos, donıt drink booze. Period.
>And if I were you I would be sure not to send all the film to the same lab at
>the same time, just in case there's a problem at their end.
Drop it off in person. (You still have to pray ;-)
ERNReed
>at
>>the same time, just in case there's a problem at their end.
>
>Drop it off in person. (You still have to pray ;-)
>
>
I wouldn't drop it all off at the same time, either.
John or Jenn
ern...@aol.comjunktrap writes:
>I wouldn't drop it all off at the same time, either.
Most everybody I know does...many drop multiple events off
at the same time...for one event, you might do that...when
the volume goes up, you play the odds. ;-)
D.Grabowski
>>>And if I were you I would be sure not to send all the film to the same lab
>>at
>>>the same time, just in case there's a problem at their end.
>>
>>Drop it off in person. (You still have to pray ;-)
>>
>>
>
>I wouldn't drop it all off at the same time, either.
Actually, sending off to different labs is a perfect lead in to
varying results. It's often hard enough to get even results from one
lab. You got to bite the bullet and have it all run in one shot. I use
wedding /portrait labs where video analyzing is the norm and the negs.
get run in a continuous batch then indexed in continuous perforated
glassines, the prints match the negs. number system . I am used to
working this way for weddings , the results are very even. However,
at that, even with the analyzer info right on the glassine, to send in
for remakes can return different results ( slightly but still there).
I have also sent in for remakes a year later and found still different
results again, generally these are going off to various parties of a
family and never get directly compared, but still I can't imagine
sending a wedding off to multiple labs, I like to follow through with
one contact, with help from above be that a good one though!
Professional wedding/portrait labs are the way to go for wedding
shots. Local labs , at least around here use too high a contrast
paper, they average the shots exposure and final prints end up looking
like glorified machine printed snap shots no matter how hard you try
to keep your end up. The wedding lab knows what is needed and wanted
in wedding photography, they offer the services and use the materials
required to make it happen if you give them enough negative to work
with. Could the lab burn down with all your negatives to the one
wedding or more in the lab? Sure it could, I could crash on the way to
the wedding too, or may wake up ill that morning or have a heart
attack, the bride could trip and break a leg. IMO, you cut the risk of
problems by dealing with the most compitent people in the field and
those people are found to be professionals in what they do before you
deal with them on entire wedding negs..Do your homework first, then
sit back relax as best you can and let them do the job for you, just
pay the bill in the end !
David Grabowski
ERNReed
>wedding /portrait labs where video analyzing is the norm and the negs.
>get run in a continuous batch then indexed in continuous perforated
>glassines, the prints match the negs. number system .
Thanks for setting me straight on this.
ifg...@my-deja.com
years ago when my photography prof recommended me to a starving young
couple. I was shaking in my boots, but did not have the nightmares
some replies to your simple question might induce. I had never been
to a wedding before in my life. You're going to do just fine. Your
posing will be crap, but everything will be in focus with no heads cut
off, and that is all they are looking for.
Some quick advice.
Stay out of the sun with B&G and wedding party.
Don't be afraid to use flash outdoors, but don't overpower.
Whenever possible, keep it simple.
Wouldn't bother with that reflector (see above).
Good luck and good shooting.
In article <050919990048565654%cpu...@seanet.com>,
> > chris purdum <cpu...@seanet.com> wrote:
> > > No, actually I do get it. the couple who I'm shooting are dead
broke,
> > > there is no family support financially and the previous
photographer
> > > scheme was a legion of family members with disposable cameras. I
> > > shouldn't have to explain this but the amount of insulting flame
mail
> > > is intolerable. I expected to burn for asking a broad based
question,
> > > not because someone feels qualified to tell me to walk away from
> > > something that I commited to.
> > >
> > > I was looking for info on how to better accomplish it, not how to
> > > weasel out on my friends.
> > >
> > > thanks to all of the folks who provided the advice I sought.
> > >
> > > to all of the naysayers, I say "Pfffagh".
> > >
> > > chris
> > >
> > > In article <7qnd4i$ire$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>, <fros...@my-deja.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > I really don't think you get it.
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
ifg...@my-deja.com
Different story.
In article <7qnbl5$hp1$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>,
fros...@my-deja.com wrote:
> I assume this is NOT a joke. God help you, friend.
>
> My advice: Back out of this at once while there is still time for the
> families to find someone else. Use ANY excuse you want, but give the
> money back and get out of here. You obviously have no idea about
> anything. NEVER do anything like this again.
>
> In article <310819992222487230%cpu...@crcwnet.com>,
> chris purdum <cpu...@crcwnet.com> wrote:
> > I'm probably gonna burn for asking such a broad question but.......
> >
> > I have an outdoor wedding to shoot around the middle of september,
I'm
> > using a mamiya 645 with 45mm, 80mm and 105-210mm zoom. problem is
I've
> > never shot a wedding and most of my people shots have been kinda
> bleah.
> > I'm lousy with flash of any kind, mostly because I've never really
> > bothered to learn it as I shoot mostly landscapes. I'll probably use
> > portra film but I'm not sure which flavor (i'll keep plenty of both
> > speeds depending on the cloud cover). Based on my lack of flash
> > experience,(as well as a flash itself) should I use a reflector and
> > hope for the best or is there a crash course on fill flash? I have a
> > good incident meter if it will help.
> >
> > if using a fill flash is the best way to go, what flash should I
get?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > chris
> >
>
ifg...@my-deja.com
someone else said, someplace that does weddings and portraits. Really
helps to have rolls and frames numbered on the back of the prints. I
mail film out every day and never lost a roll, not to say that it
doesn't happen.
As an aside, someone liked red carpet in the church. I hate it. Not
as bad as no center isle, but it sure doesn't make the bride look any
better. Detracts too much from the important things, like the people.
To each his own.
In article <6NHB3.182$Ms2....@news.rdc1.az.home.com>,
John or Jenn <las...@home.com> wrote:
> In article <19990909000519...@ng-co1.aol.com> ERNReed,
> ern...@aol.comjunktrap writes:
> >I wouldn't drop it all off at the same time, either.
>
> Most everybody I know does...many drop multiple events off
> at the same time...for one event, you might do that...when
> the volume goes up, you play the odds. ;-)
>
chris purdum
same one that Art Wolfe takes his film to (one of them anyway). If I
can't trust them then I'm screwed. My only plan fior processing is to
tell them that these are wedding shots. The people there have always
been very friendly and helpful. this doesn't mean that they don't ever
screw up but the chances are slim.
I think that the lab will be the least if my worries.
chris
chris purdum
I'm wondering. I'm going to shoot the ceremony and some candids with my
35mm using the same film (portra 160NC rated at ISO 100) and was
sondering what the max enlargement size I could hope for was (without
it going fuzzy and all that). I was thinking 5x7 but heard that 8x10
can work with some films. I'm going to be using a monopod for the
ceremony to maximize stability so I'm hoping for some crisp shots.
thanks
chris
ifg...@my-deja.com
I would use a faster film. portra 400 would be great.
Characteristic of new portra films is that color renditions is constant
within the family of portra films. I do formals 6x7, candids 35mm,
shoot Fuji NHGII (800)at 600, expose for medium shadows. No problems
with 8x10. With your senario the limiting factor is camera movement
(also dept of field). Not sure if that is your concern (it should
be). Monopods great, but I use tripod from center isle. If you have
good, sharp neg, well exposed, 8x10 should be no problem, regardless of
film choice. If you were working for me, I'd send you out with portra
400 and a tripod for church interiors. Might be able to get some
shots without tripod, depends. A friend shoots portra 400 and says he
really gets 400 speed out of it, but I'd use 320 to be safe. Great
latitude.>
Good luck
Ken>
D.Grabowski
wrote:
>I realize this whole thread should have been in r.p.t.p but.....
>
>I'm wondering. I'm going to shoot the ceremony and some candids with my
>35mm using the same film (portra 160NC rated at ISO 100) and was
>sondering what the max enlargement size I could hope for was (without
>it going fuzzy and all that). I was thinking 5x7 but heard that 8x10
>can work with some films. I'm going to be using a monopod for the
>ceremony to maximize stability so I'm hoping for some crisp shots.
>
>thanks
>
>chris
In 35mm. I would be using NHG II on the church interior.In medium
format it would be PMZ to go with the Portra, otherwise NHG II along
with NPH for the rest of the event. You really don't need the slow
film today IMO, but that is truely My Opinion. Also, have you
checked with the clergy about flash( you would surely need it with a
100 EI! ) during the ceremony? Often this is not allowed during the
ceremony.
You won't have a problem with 8x10, just get enough exposure and a
high enough shutter speed to be reasonable for the method used and the
scene shot. Personally, I'd rather go with faster films and not worry
about the super slow shutter speeds so as to gain interior
registration, it will be slow enough with 400 speed film ( thus the
800 suggestion).If you have a hankering to shoot some slow film , save
it for the bridal portrait or the couples formal shots, use the
fastest films in the church and 400 for the entire rest of the event.
If I were in your shoes, I would spend my time getting poses down and
figuring out organizing the day. Don't worry about grain and the like,
just try to capture the days events for the people at this time in
your adventure, it's going to be a full day at that.Honestly , your
best bet is to stick to one film and probably one format for the whole
event. The people will love it if you just give them a nice rendition
of the day as it passed and remember to keep peoples eyes trained on
you or your camera lens, they have a way of wandering if you don't pay
special attention to this matter.
Grabowski
chris purdum
<dgra...@capecodSP.net> wrote:
(undoubtedly sound advice deleted...)
Thye reason I'm using 160 is that
A) the wedding is outdoors and it is expected to be very sunny
B) I'm using fill flash
C) my camera syncs at 1/60th of a sec. (%#@!%$ mamiya 645)
D) 400 rated at 250 is way too fast for all of that.
So I'm sticking to the same film for the whole deal except the
reception which will include some 3200 TMZ B&W.
and to boot: The ceremony is atop a hill that is used for kite flying
just north of downtown seattle. the top of the hill is very small (25ft
dia) and 60 guests are expected as well as a horde of kite flying
individuals. the monopod will allow me to move about and get between
people without knocking them off the hilltop AND I don't have to lug
three bags of gear up the hill just to get swiped by some kite flying
heroin fiend who might call this particular park home.
chris
ifg...@my-deja.com
you have a plan and it is a good plan.
In article <110919991625121356%cpu...@crcwnet.com>,
dorktwit
out great and having Portra 400VC on hand saved my ass. The formals all
took place in open shade and 400 did the trick. I did end up using
Portra 160NC in 35mm for the ceremony.
got my proofs back today and I did better than I expected.
whoo hoo!
chris
D.Grabowski
wrote:
>well, I was sure glad I did bring two types of film. The 3200 B&W came
>out great and having Portra 400VC on hand saved my ass. The formals all
>took place in open shade and 400 did the trick. I did end up using
>Portra 160NC in 35mm for the ceremony.
>
>got my proofs back today and I did better than I expected.
>
>whoo hoo!
>
>chris
Congradulations, I wish my proofs came back so quick though, usually
over a week and then a few more for the remakes and enlargements. 5-6
weeks to a final album in general, up to as much as two months for
large wall hangers when all is said and done !
Anyway, I'm glad you were pleased with your work, whenit's all over
you should have a good feeling of accomplishment.
Grabowski
Rick Munday
D.Grabowski <dgra...@capecodSP.net> wrote in message
news:37e0cf75...@newshost.capecod.net...
> Congradulations, I wish my proofs came back so quick though, usually
> over a week and then a few more for the remakes and enlargements. 5-6
> weeks to a final album in general, up to as much as two months for
> large wall hangers when all is said and done !
No doubt! See my 120 processing thread... 10 Days turn around through Wolf.
I was looking for convenience of location.
All the Pro Labs (except for one) are downtown Chicago, 35 miles from me. I
guess I'll pick one that offers free or minimal charge courier services.
Rick
BTW- Congrats Chris! Glad to see everything went smooth for you. You'll
always remember this one!
Photo0003
you have no idea what your doing, say so and let the real PRO's do the job
right the first time.You got lucky this time ...
John or Jenn
phot...@aol.com writes:
>The problem with PRO's getting good work is because of people like yourself. If
What? Youąd have done this wedding for no cost? Hard to make a living
that way...If you were around at the beginning of the thread, youąd know
that his friends didnąt even have enough to pay him...he did it pro-bono
as a favor to his friends.
If youąre worried about somebody shooting for free/cost/$500, youąre
working the wrong end of the market...leave the low end to others.
FRANK CAVE
photography skills? We all have to start somewhere. If you are afraid of
this guy getting your business, you must not be all that either.
Frank
Photo0003 wrote:
>
> The problem with PRO's getting good work is because of people like yourself. If
chris purdum
twits like you.
my hat is off to all who contributed useful advice.
chris
In article <19990918060634...@ng-fh1.aol.com>, Photo0003
Gregory Blank
shaking in my shoes. Its good to know alls well that ends well.
In article <180919991622245542%cpu...@crcwnet.com>, chris purdum
<cpu...@crcwnet.com> wrote:
chris
--
Gregory W.Blank Photography
P.O. Box 726
Finksburg, MD. 21048
Check out my website http://members.bellatlantic.net/~gblank
Photo0003
with little or no experience should not be called. A lot of students could have
done a better job for no fee.
FOR7
>If
>you have no idea what your doing, say so and let the real PRO's do the job
>right the first time.You got lucky this time ...
>
Your work speaks for itself. If you can't get "good work" it will amount to
either of two things, one being your work is just not good enough to sell
itself or the photographer him or herself is not doing a good enough job on the
marketing side. No one else to blame.
John or Jenn
How do you know how good of a job he did? Thatąs kind of presumptious,
not having seen the work.
A lot of students would have sucked wind, too. Can you imagine
a typical Brooks Institute student showing up for a wedding?
How would experience shooting Śnudes in natureą (at their leisure...
not pressed for time or dealing with the dynamics of a wedding)
trying to handle the typical Śmoneyą shots...never mind that sheąd
be wearing all black, from her dyed hair to her combat boots! Just
because someone is studying (even seriously) photography doesnąt mean
they be any good at a wedding...landscapes in large format donąt
translate well to formal poses, candids, etc.
ifg...@my-deja.com
DKFletcher
How would experience shooting Śnudes in nature1 (at their leisure...
not pressed for time or dealing with the dynamics of a wedding)
trying to handle the typical Śmoney1 shots...never mind that she1d
be wearing all black, from her dyed hair to her combat boots! Just
because someone is studying (even seriously) photography doesn1t mean
they be any good at a wedding...landscapes in large format don1t
translate well to formal poses, candids, etc.>>
Hmmmmm what the hell are you talking about??
Your generalizations about Brooks astound me? I'd be curious to learn about
your background as well as your education. I suspect you never attended
Brooks, RIT, or Art Center, it sounds as if you are a tad bitter about it as
well. Several very good wedding photographers come to mind and ya ya know what,
they are Brooks grads as well.
Nudes and Landscape????? Obviously you have no idea what the basic thrust of
the school is about. Why don't you take your dumb ass to a large market and
start asking the high dollar commercial and advertising photographers where
they went to school. Then ask them if how they "deal with the dynamics" of
there clients! Then get a damn clue!!
John or Jenn
dkfle...@aol.com writes:
>Hmmmmm what the hell are you talking about??
>Your generalizations about Brooks astound me? I'd be curious to learn about
>your background as well as your education. I suspect you never attended
Sorry...my limited experience with Brooks students biased me.
I met about 30 of them hired to shoot graduations once, and 29
of them fit that description. Iąll confess to generalizing, as
it was amusing. I do understand that Brooks is highly regarded
for commercial photography, but the students all seemed to pooh-pooh
the wedding/portrait side of photography as being to plebian for a
Brooks grad.
>Brooks, RIT, or Art Center, it sounds as if you are a tad bitter about it as
Didnąt go to any of them...got a degree in E.E. instead...boy am I bitter
about that...no market for that these days. ;-)
>well. Several very good wedding photographers come to mind and ya ya know what,
>they are Brooks grads as well.
Who?
>Nudes and Landscape????? Obviously you have no idea what the basic thrust of
>the school is about.
Youąre right...commercial stuff, right? Most commercial folks Iąve talked
to also pooh-pooh weddings as being beneath them. Many of the commercial
folks Iąve met also ended up having to do the Śprostitution photographyą
as the field seemed to get much more crowded since everyone aspires to
be a serious photographer and go in to commercial.
>Why don't you take your dumb ass to a large market and
Youąre right, my ass is dumb...you, on the other hand, seem to have
mastered the art of speaking out of yours. ;-)
>start asking the high dollar commercial and advertising photographers where
>they went to school. Then ask them if how they "deal with the dynamics" of
>there clients! Then get a damn clue!!
Do you know where I might buy one? I understand the number of clues are
finite in the world.