4x5 portrait lighting
John Radigan
portrait work with some interest as I have been thinking about doing
some things of this nature. The other issue of interest to me is
lighting, specifically power.
How much flash power (i.e. - 1200 w.s., etc.) is necessary for this
type of work? I would think I'd need quite a bit because of the
apertures we're talking about. I'm thinking a single soft box and a
reflector for fill at this point.
Thanks,
john
annqlee
I have 2 750 joules travelite monolights from calumet. This is the true
stored capacitor rating.
At, ISO 100 I can push around f32 with an umbrella around 6 to 10 feet away
from the subject.
I can push around f22 with a softbox around 4 feet away from subject. I was
able to push around f45 to f64
for still life close up. For the 8x10 work that I do, I found it sufficient.
I find that Ilford Delta 400 is almost equivalent
to grain as Plus-X. So you can get 2 more stops that way.
Good Luck,
Ann
"John Radigan" <jrad...@ameritech.net> wrote in message
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Bruce MacNeil
light do you want etc.
But, I find my 500Watt Elinchroms to be adequate - ample - for single person
portraiture with my 8x10.
Studio lights are funny - you will always want more power or a bigger light
or a bigger studio or a light that you can turn down further.
"John Radigan" <jrad...@ameritech.net> wrote in message
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Ralph Barker
want to use, 1200WS units may be sufficient. (Note that different
manufacturers use different methods for measuring watt seconds, so their
ratings aren't always equivalent.) Also, depending on your budget, you
may want to consider future other uses, as well, and buy lights that
will cover what you will eventually want.
I use WhiteLightning X3200s as my main strobes, for example. These allow
me to get into the f/32 or f/45 range with a softbox for product work.
For portraiture, I simply turn them down a bit to use wider f-stops.
Paul Buff, the company that makes them also has good specs for the
various sized lights on their site at
http://www.white-lightning.com/allspecs.html - this may be helpful to
you in choosing.
Stefan Patric
Think about adding a hairlight. It will add "sparkle" to your
portraits.
As far as power and portraits: I use very old, but very efficient
800WS packs (I have 4 for lighting architectural interiors for 4x5)
with one head at 600WS into a 60" white umbrella at 4' to 5' and the
other head at 200WS with a 1 or 2 stop ND gel on a bare 7" reflector; I
get f11 to f16 with 100 speed film. So, 1200 WS should do for a head
and shoulders to 3/4 portrait.
For full length or group portraits, most times I use 2 800WS packs and
shoot at f8-11 or so.
--
Stefan Patric
too...@yahoo.com
GK
ws). These alone offer many different lighting possibilities. Calumet has a
bunch of starter kits that feature the Travelite monolights. Just be wary of
the accessories! They ain't cheap!
The built-in slave function of monolights is very handy. No sea of cords to
get tangled in!
Somebody wrote about the White lightning stuff too. Their lights are
inexpensive, but make sure you research them first. I believe they over-rate
some of their lights, or call them the 3200, when it's only a 160ws light.
Something along those lines. PLEASE DO NOT FLAME ME IF YOU ARE A WHITE
LIGHTNING FAN! I am only encouraging this person to do research!
Good luck. Also try using available light. ANY available light. Reflectors
and translucent materials can duplicate a lot of artificial lighting
effects. It helps you when you start using the canned light too.
"annqlee" <ann...@msn.com> wrote in message
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Ted Harris
softboxes. I frequently supplement with a small hairlight. Sometimes I also
work with theatriucal hot lights ... when I do it is generally between 1000 and
2000 watts coming from 3/4 lekos. any of the options allows me to work from
f16 down dependign on placement of the lights, film and shutter speed. I
usually use ISO 100 films
Ted Harris
Resource Strategy
Henniker, New Hampshire
John Radigan
John