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fighting with shine oil paintings

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fabian oliver

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Jun 23, 2002, 12:27:56 PM6/23/02
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Hi all.

I'm new in this group, and i'm happy to find it.

This days i'm working with repros of paintings for an exibition
catalogue.

Two of them are very complicated, because the paint has lots of oil
"material" ( texture), and in some black areas i've brilliance.

Im using two 1K lamps, not at 45 degrees because the brilliance is too
high. So i use them at 15 or 20 degrees, and far from the edges to
have equal f in all the picture.

I can'f figure any other solution to avoid brilliance.

Somebody can give me a tip ?


Thanks to all of you, and sorry for my english.

fabian oliver

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Jun 23, 2002, 12:27:57 PM6/23/02
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Hi all.

Fabian

fabian oliver

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Jun 23, 2002, 12:30:32 PM6/23/02
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Bob

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Jun 23, 2002, 1:08:25 PM6/23/02
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in article 4f0ece5e.02062...@posting.google.com, fabian oliver at
fol...@montevideo.com.uy wrote on 6/23/02 12:30 PM:

Cross polarization.

Polarize the lights and the lens.


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Jun 23, 2002, 1:27:41 PM6/23/02
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I used to a lot of copy work that had a lot of layers of clear plastic
overlays on it and the solution I came up with is as following:

I used white muslin and put it between the lights (far enough away from the
hot lights not to catch on fire but not in the image) and the art. It
increased the exposure but did not change the color of the lights.
Eventually I made some frames out of PVC pipe and wrapped the muslin on it.
Worked very well and I can not see any reason it would not work for you.
OR, you could take Bob's advice. Either should do a good job for you.

lee
"Bob" <bobsa...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
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John Emmons

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Jun 23, 2002, 1:34:58 PM6/23/02
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You need to get a couple of things. Some Polarising gels for your lights and
a Polarising filter for your camera lens.
Attach the gels in such a way as to avoid burning them up.
Strobes are much better for this sort of thing than hot lights. And the
color temp will be more reliable as well.
After you gel your lights, attach the filter to the camera lens. While
behind the ground glass, turn the filter until the glare is minimised.

You should be aware that some oil paints, ie, pigments will not translate
accurately to film. No matter how well you light the painting.

A few other tips, hang some Duvateen or similiar flat black cloth behind the
painting. Or paint the wall behind it flat black. Use an angle finder to
match the angle of the painting and the film plane, if you have to hang the
painting at an angle from the wall. A grid screen will help a great deal
with keeping the lines parallel.

Don't let the lights get too close to the artwork. 2K watts of heat will
ruin an oil painting.

Shoot at least 2 sheets of film of each setup, process one and check it for
proper exposure, if it's ok then process the second one. If the exposure is
off on the first one, you might be able to push or pull the film enough to
save it. I'm assuming you're using transparency film. If you're using
negative film, get it as close as possible and then let the printer correct
it.

If you are using negative film, you need to be aware that the color is even
more apt to be off. You might want to invest in a Macbeth color checker. Put
it in the frame with the painting, shoot one exposure. Then take it out,
shoot another. Have the lab process the images so that the colors on the
Macbeth match.

Good luck. You're going to find out why good copywork is expensive.

John Emmons
"fabian oliver" <fol...@montevideo.com.uy> wrote in message
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Jeff Novick

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Jun 23, 2002, 1:54:02 PM6/23/02
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One other suggestion beside polarizing the lens and lights. Try to shoot
chromes. You will see immediately if your colors are off. You will also have
to use tungsten film. I have used Fuji 64T very successfully. You don't
mention which format film you are using so you may be limited in your
choices.

jeff

"fabian oliver" <fol...@montevideo.com.uy> wrote in message
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fabian oliver

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Jun 23, 2002, 7:09:05 PM6/23/02
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Thanks Bob ,John, Lee and Jeff !

I'm using Kodak 64T 120 rolls

The color reproduction is well, and the lab is quite constant.

I'll take a look in my country where find the polarising gels, and
i'll try Lee idea too.

I hope tomorrow i'll resolve it.


Thanks again.

Fabian.

John Emmons

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Jun 24, 2002, 1:02:00 AM6/24/02
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You don't mention what country you live in but if you can find a dealer or
distributor for Lee Filters, they sell polarising gels. 640mm x 640mm made
specifically for lighting purposes. Lee is based in England, probably fairly
easy to find in Western Europe.

John Emmons

"fabian oliver" <fol...@montevideo.com.uy> wrote in message
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Bob

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Jun 24, 2002, 4:46:13 AM6/24/02
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in article cJxR8.58154$UT.39...@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net, John
Emmons at joh...@worldnet.att.net wrote on 6/24/02 1:02 AM:

Heliopan ones may be easier to find. They are made in 2 different
thicknesses and in sizes to 14 x 14"

fabian oliver

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Jun 24, 2002, 9:51:55 AM6/24/02
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Hello John.

I live in Uruguay, it' winter now.

The Manfrotto importer distributes Lee filters too, i'll see if they have in stock.

Thanks for the input.

Fabian.

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