Need advice on basic portrait studio lighting.
Patrick L.
$2500 US (for strobe lights/soft boxes, flash meter, backdrops,
stands. Already have three cameras, lenses to get going, and a 5 in 1
reflector with a stand).
I want a monolight flash system with variable power. Right now I'm
thinking about Alien Bees equipment.
Regarding power needs, Alien Bees has three flash units, 640
watt/seconds, 320, and 160.
Of course, logic dictates that with more power one is in a more
versatile position, but for portraits and headshots (tight, medium,and
full body length shots), how much power do I really need?
I would be renting, probably, a studio that is large enough, but not
huge. I'm using Canon EOS 35mm film equipment, might be getting a
digital in the future. On occasion, I might use my Mamiya C330.
I am assuming that my budget won't allow me to rent a huge studio, so
this is why I want units with variable power, since I might not have
the luxury of that much movement with the softboxes. I was using a
borrowed powerpack system, and I have had the darnedest time juggling
the lights (either by moving the lights with respect to distance from
the subject, or reconnecting each to a different power output on the
pack) to that they have the power I seek , i.e., Key light at F8,
Fill at F5.6, etc., and so I deemed it would be so much easier just to
have monolights with variable power, and I wouldn't have to fuss as
much with getting the lighting to be where I want it. (Yeah, I know,
it takes practice, but I'm lazy).
Also, for the hairlight, do I really need a flash unit? Can't a
tungsten light suffice? (Of course, I could go all the way with
hotlights, but I have decided on flash for at least the Key and Fill
lights).
Also, what are the pros and cons regarding monolights vs powerpack
controlled systems?
Thanks,
Patrick
McLeod
few ideas about the pros and cons. I'm sure others can give you some more
reasons.
Box and cable pros: huge power...I can get 2000 w/s out of one light if I
only have one hooked up to the box. Lower price...$2500 will buy you a very
complete Norman or Speedotron system on E-bay which will work just like new
and a 800 w/s pack is plenty to start with to see if you like it, 800 w/s is
more than enough for most portraiture.
Box and cable cons: Limited adjustment...at least on the Normans I can only
adjust them by two stops so I have lots of extra diffusion and ND material
around.
Monolights pros: Usually more adjustment range, self contained so less
hassle to set up and easier to take on location.
Monolight cons: Unless you have a remote you are climbing up ladders to
adjust them when you are doing standing type portraits, and you are
adjusting them a lot during a portrait shoot. It's especially frustrating
if they are inside a softbox or something.
In my years in a studio I have noticed that almost all the monolight
failures I have seen have been from thermal overload. If you are going to
buy monolights I would make sure they had fans inside.
"Patrick L." <no...@fast.com> wrote in message
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Gordon Moat
Unfortunately, they are pricey and take lots of room. Looking into the
Alien Bees line would be an excellent choice. Also check into the White
Lightning units. The soft boxes and stands available for these are fairly
good quality, though the Alien Bees soft boxes are a little fiddley to
put together.
The Alien Bees units are fairly accurate on their ratings. They are not
directly comparable to other companies ratings, though that could be said
of nearly all these types of lights.
Look into the Quantum Q Flash system. This is very powerful, and somewhat
more portable. Some of the higher end Metz gear may be comparable on
power and pricing.
Be sure to get a variety of reflectors, clamps, modifiers, and stands.
Buy anything used that you can find in good condition. If you intend to
be more portable, try to double up on important items, or get some low
end Britek or Morris gear as backup. Natural lighting and diffusers can
really help portraits, by themselves, or in combination with lighting
gear.
Put some money towards a good flash meter. A Sekonic L-358 would be an
excellent choice, especially with multiple lights. The flash to ambient
percentage readout can be great for setting up your shots.
Tungsten lights can warm up your shots a bit when used in combination
with strobes. Getting the balance right can take some testing, and
burning through some film. Consider getting one or two dedicated units
for this purpose. You can change the colour temperature of your shots by
balancing film and filter choices, but sometimes only Tungsten light can
really get the effect you may want.
Get the support equipment, and extra reflectors, then get the most
powerful lights you can afford. Having too much just means dialling down
the light, though it is an easy mistake to overlight some shots. You can
actually get away with some fairly small and low powered lights for upper
body portrait shots, so don't dismiss the lower power gear.
Ciao!
Gordon Moat
Alliance Graphique Studio
<http://www.allgstudio.com>
Jerry Gardner
> Monolight cons: Unless you have a remote you are climbing up ladders
> to adjust them when you are doing standing type portraits, and you are
> adjusting them a lot during a portrait shoot. It's especially
> frustrating if they are inside a softbox or something.
Another monolight con is their weight. Putting a 7-8 lb. monolight and a
softbox up at 10' on a stand is asking for trouble unless you have a very
sturdy stand.
Powerpack lights are much lighter (and more compact) as they don't need all
of the electronics, capacitors, etc., that are in a monolight.
--
Jerry Gardner
w6...@hotmail.com
Michael Quack
Patrick L. says...
> I want to set up a basic portrait/headshot studio.
> My budget is about $2500 US (for strobe lights/soft boxes,
> flash meter, backdrops, stands.
Tight budget, but possible.
> I want a monolight flash system with variable power.
> Right now I'm thinking about Alien Bees equipment.
With that budget - yes.
> Regarding power needs, Alien Bees has three flash units,
> 640 watt/seconds, 320, and 160.
If you intend to use medium format and want to go full
figure as well - the 1600s.
> Also, for the hairlight, do I really need a flash unit?
Would be the most intelligent thing to do.
No color mix this way.
> Can't a tungsten light suffice?
If you can live with the reddish color and the heat
problem - maybe. Wouldn't suffice for my requirements,
though.
> Also, what are the pros and cons regarding monolights
> vs powerpack controlled systems?
Flash heads for power packs are more lightweight, which
helps with smaller booms and lamp stands. You can get
ring lights, striplites, fresnel spots and flash boxes
for power packs. Drawback is the higher total price,
limitations in movement and fixtures (try bringing a
power pack up to the ceiling), cord losses result in
approx one f-stop less light in comparison to a mono
with same power rating.
Cables might break in the long run, you have slower
recycle times and higher load for your mains circuitry.
Unless you are really turning pro with a variety of
subjects, you are unlikely to make use of the advantages
of power packs, but you will certainly make use of the
advantages of monos.
--
Michael Quack <mic...@photoquack.de>
Fast, reliable, cheap. Pick any two of the three.