portraits

[Mark Olsen]

Hi everyone.

 

I am interested in learning more about taking portraits. As I don't have fancy studio flashes or backdrops, I would like to take "on location" type picutres. One of my young neighbours wants to be a model and has volunteered to pose in return for copies of the photos.

 

I am after any advice regarding my new venture. Suggestions for film would be appreciated (are the professional 160 speed portrait films worth the extra money?). Should I invest in a warming or soft focus filter (and if so, what do you recommend?). Also, I am unsure of what poses look best - is there a book or guide to give me some clues in this area?

 

BTW, I am using a Canon 30 with a 28-135 lens. At the moment, I don't have a flash, however I am thinking of getting the 420EX when I have the $$$.

 

Thanks in Advance.

 

Rebecca

[Bob Hickey]

NPS, 81a, "mistmaker" or fog or "pro-mist". anything that can be
put on a stand, off camera. Some kind of reflector. Vanity Fair or W.
Bob Hickey

[Charles W Freeland]

I'm sure you will get film recommendation up and down, so all I say is
try to stick to slower speeds as they produce finer grain.

It would benefit you to find a book or two on basic portrait lighting,
butterfly lighting and Rembrant lighting are generally considered most
flattering, but it really depends on the subject and the mood of the
image. With careful placement you should be able to achieve good
lighting without studio equipment. Pay close attention to lighting
ratios, the difference between the highlights and shadows on the
subject, try to keep them only 1-2 stops different, unless you want
something very moody. Shooting in open shade is usually best and
mornings and late afternoon work better than noon, unless it's overcast.
You may need to use reflectors or fill flash to bring up shadows that
are too dark.

Try to keep your backgrounds subdued. Shallow depth of field is great
for this. And look out for trees and things 'growing' out of your
model's head. a warming filter is usually a good idea for color
portraits outside, they will remove some of the bluish cast you'll get
from the sky. I'm not big on soft-focus filters, they tend to get over
used.

Posing is really subjective. It depends on the model, the mood and type
of image and what qualities you are trying to show off and/or
de-emphasis. Again, look at books for ideas and experiment.

For most portraits you'll want to stick to the longer end of you lens,
between 85mm and 135mm. It's generally more flattering to shoot longer
focal lengths.

Hope all this helps.

Charles

[Steven Flanagan]

Visit www.zuga.net I hit that site yesterday and it has a lot of good stuff.

 

 

Steve

"Mark Olsen" <mar...@netcentral.com.au> wrote in message news:RJcD6.19$UY....@nsw.nnrp.telstra.net...

[Heavysteam]

<<As I don't have
fancy studio flashes or backdrops, I would like to take "on location"
type picutres. >>

You need to remember that for hundreds of years artists have been using window
light. Photographers do too, and simple window light (not direct sunlight)
makes a beautiful light source. You usually need a reflector to add some
extra light to the shadowed side of the subject but that can be as simple as a
sheet of white poster board or foam core. With some excellent fast negative
films on the market like Kodak Portra 800, you can shoot without large amounts
of light. There are also inexpensive diffusers you can add for a softer
look if that is what you like. Use a tripod if you have one and remember to
open the aperture all the way to keep the background as soft as possible.
(Posing the subject as far away from background objects helps, too.)