http://www.cool-points.com/logan.jpg
Thanks in advance
Dave
Cute, Dave. We can see what he thinks of you. :) You'll need at least 2
flash units that will work together - that can bounce the light
hopefully, or a couple of floods, unbrellas, etc. depending on if you
want just snap shots, or some good portraits. I'm sure you'll get ample
help here as to some good portable studio quality lighting.
Fred
--
"...Linux, MS-DOS, and Windows XP (also known as the Good, the Bad, and
the Ugly)."
HTH
In article <c1oop...@enews3.newsguy.com>, dc...@jet2.net_NOSPAM says...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3800248849&category=48541
In article <c1oop...@enews3.newsguy.com>, dc...@jet2.net_NOSPAM says...
>
>
you like window light? simple, just take your shoe flash and bounce it off
a side wall, (0f course it helps to have a shoe flash that tilts) this
gives you an effect similar to a large softbox.
if you get a kit DO NOT set an umbrella on either side of the camera, it
seems natural, some kits even give you a diagram that way, but it gives you
the worst mug shot, old fashioned passport light, with deeper bags under
eyes, wider noses and suspecious eyes (slight darkening on both insides)
those dang kits at best will let you emulate the same shiny face portraits
at any shopping mall kiddy pix place.
It may be a reasonable set for light duty, but I hope no one believes a
shoot-through white umbrealla works "exactly the same as a softbox does"!
Charlie Self
I don't approve of political jokes. I've seen too many of them get elected.
You might be surprised what you can do with a window and someone holding
a white sheet opposite the subject to provide fill.
North light has been the artist friend for centuries.
I don't object to artificial lighting, but far too many people seem to
believe it is a must. I might also suggest some of the best portraits I
have seen have been done outside. I do suggest some form of reflector and a
helper to handle the reflector. A sheet, a large piece of white cardboard,
maybe one side covered with aluminum foil could be useful.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
> You might be surprised what you can do with a window and someone holding
>a white sheet opposite the subject to provide fill.
>
> North light has been the artist friend for centuries.
>
> I don't object to artificial lighting, but far too many people seem to
>believe it is a must. I might also suggest some of the best portraits I
>have seen have been done outside. I do suggest some form of reflector and a
>helper to handle the reflector. A sheet, a large piece of white cardboard,
>maybe one side covered with aluminum foil could be useful.
>
>
True. Foam core board from office supply stores provides good white reflection
at low cost, but is limited in sizes easily available, while Mylar space
blankets do a better job than aluminum foil (mostly because they're easier to
re-use). Large white reflectors can be made from styrofoam sheets available at
any building supply store in 4' x 8'. Stuff cuts with a pocket knife.
Since you have little experience with artificial lighting, use natural
light. You can shoot indoors by a large window or outdoors in open
shade or direct, but backlit sunlight. All you'll need is a large
reflector or two, and, maybe, a black card or two to block light,
clamps, and stands. See if you can locate any books on Natural Light
Portraiture to learn the proper techniques. The best way to learn
artificial lighting is to first learn how to modify natural light.
--
Stefan Patric
too...@yahoo.com
The answer is simple: do your portraits outdoors! :) There is no
requirement to do portraits indoors (which I think many people wrongly
assume), and if you already know how to work outside, it should be a natural
choice. I'm exactly the same way, and my very best portraits happened
outside or with natural window light:
http://www.kohary.com/photography/images/mia/yellow_740.jpg
http://www.karmaphotography.com/images/portraits/kids/colin.jpg
http://www.karmaphotography.com/images/portraits/kids/in_slumber_a.jpg
http://www.karmaphotography.com/images/portraits/kids/mia.jpg
http://www.karmaphotography.com/images/portraits/kids/lil_pumpkin.jpg
http://www.karmaphotography.com/images/models/cailen_01.jpg
http://www.karmaphotography.com/images/models/zoe.jpg
I always prefer to take my clients outdoors whenever possible. Just wait
for a nice sunny day, put your subject under some trees with dappled shade
or something like that, and go to it. Don't shoot in direct overhead
sunlight (too many harsh shadows), but direct sunlight can be awesome at
either dawn or dusk, when the sun is low on the horizon.
Good luck!
Mike
I guess paying attention to lighting, backgrounds, and using a
vignetter are too much to ask.
I can't see any reason why you can not pay 'Attention to lighting,
background' and even apply a vignetter (If you wanted) to outdoor work. In
fact I believe as the last poster made clear it is essential. I find clients
are getting a bit bored with the usual style posed studio shot. As I am.
Forget your lighting equipment start making diffusers, reflectors and find
good locations.
I'm all for good lighting, backgrounds, and vignetters. Here in the
Pacific NW though, good weather is rare most of the year. Back when I
had the studio, indoor photography was the way to go or you didn't
create images most of the year.
You can and should do all of that outdoors, too.
Mike
I'm located in Seattle, and I disagree that it's so bad. Yes, we have our
share of rainy, unphotographable days. But most of the time it's sunny or
overcast, both excellent conditions for shooting. Obviously in the winter,
when it's mostly cold and cloudy, I go indoors. But spring, summer and fall
make for excellent outdoor shoots.
Mike