- Christopher
You've described the system I will be buying. Do you have any sample photos
that we could see?
Thanks
Norm Cabana
Head-On Photos
www.headonphotos.com
Jim K
"Christopher Glaeser" <c...@nullstone.com> wrote in message
news:3A33D563...@nullstone.com...
These photos have nothing to do with AF performance, but here are two
D30 / Photoshop images that I did earlier this week. I used the Canon
50/1.4 for both.
http://www.nullstone.com/christopher/rose.htm
http://www.nullstone.com/christopher/pinkbow.htm
- Christopher
You have convinced me!!:-)
Y
Beautiful photos, but I'm going to be going face to face with 3000lb race cars
next month and for the rest of the year. They don't hold still to have their
picture taken! I realize that the camera doesn't have the fastest AF. Big
deal! My Rebel 2000 and Elan IIE don't either and that doesn't stop us from
taking good shots. Long before AF came along, we did manual focus. What I'd
like to see is your low light indoor soccer shots. I need to see how clear the
lens is on this camera in these conditions. I'd really appreciate your help.
Thanks
Norm Cabana
If you are relying on AF in sports, you're losing money. The stuff I shoot is
all manual and while my friends are shooting with a Nikon F5, I'm taking shots
as good or better with my Rebel 2000 in manual mode. In fact, all the
motorsports pros I know shoot manual at least 80% of the time. AF does not make
or break a good sports camera, the glass does. I've used the 70-200 on the
Rebel and the Elan IIE and the results were superb.
Thanks
Norm Cabana
Head-On Photos
www.headonphotos.com
Unfortunately, I have yet to get one decent photo. Even with the 2.8
lens, the fast action and low light pretty much requires ISO 1600, and
the noise at 1600 is much too high in low light (IMHO) to produce a good
photo. I recently read somewhere that the pro photographers at
basketball games have a bank of flashes strategically placed around the
court. Must be nice. Sure could use those for indoor soccer.
If anyone has an exceptional D30 photo shot at 1600 that they would like
to share, please post the URL. The D30 is a great camera and it has
exceeded my expectations, but I have yet to find a good use for the ISO
1600.
- Christopher
Sounds like you need the 85 f1.2L Unfortunately, it is not chump
change.
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Every so often you'll read in some photo mag about how basketball arenas
are set up with strobes. (Nowadays I'm sure you can find it on the
internet!) You know, if you have a $1-2k budget I bet you could do a
low-rent equivalent for your favorite indoor soccer arena.
Funny thing is, these strobes light up the entire arena and they are
PERFECTLY visible on television, but for whatever reason you hardly
even notice it while watching televised games or even the slo-mo
replays with the strobed frames. I guess it's just what viewers
expect to see.
To wit:
http://siphoto.com/finalfour/strobe.htm
http://www.gx680.com/html/arena/arena1.html
-joseph
It's a little short, too. I have the 50 f1.4, but it's much to short.
I expect the 70-200 2.8 will prove to be an excellent choice at next
year's outdoor soccer games. The D30 1.6x shifts it into an ideal
range.
- Christopher
I never really noticed them before, but I watched a couple basketball
highlights on TV this morning, and the flashes are quite visible if you
look for them.
- Christopher
Hmmmm, Daytona isn't til February. What series is that? Need any help?
:-) (oh, is my jealousy showing?)
---
Guy Finney
g...@primenet.com
Well the D30 makes its effective focal length (1.6*85)136mm and the
f1.2 is fast enough to work with. Its a trade off.
"Christopher Glaeser" <c...@nullstone.com> wrote in message
news:3A347A11...@nullstone.com...
Then there's the issue of how to focus it quickly/accurately enough.
-joseph
Yes I suppose your right. It would be tricky, narrow depth of field. I guess
the best way to go is find a way to use higher ISO with less noise. Or flash
banks!!
> http://www.nullstone.com/christopher/rose.htm
> http://www.nullstone.com/christopher/pinkbow.htm
Those photos look very soft - or was this your intention? (Not wanting to sound like I am critical of your work
- just asking)
> - Christopher
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Glad you asked. I softened them intentionally in Photoshop. The D30 is
capable of sharp photos, particularly if you use the Photoshop unsharp
mask. Note that the D30 can sharpen images automatically in the camera,
but this is a poor approach IMO, because once the image is altered in
the camera, you can't get the original image. If you sharpen the image
in a photo editor, then you can try various parameters to have complete
control of the desired affect. I process all my D30 images in
Photoshop, including those I want to print, post to the web, upload for
on-line developing, or just review for experimentation.
The D30 is an excellent camera and it is certainly possible to print
images as they are produced by the camera, but I tend to edit all my
images. Some I just tweak a bit; others I perform many edits like the
images in the links above. For example, the second image includes a
pastel pencil layer that was softened and the added to the original
image. In fact, that second image was a small portion of a much larger
family portrait, so it has been enlarged considerably as well.
I know it is possible to create these types of images with film and a
scanner, but the quick turnaround and the ability to perform numerous
experiments with little cost, time, or effort has encouraged me to try
things I had only thought about with film. The D30 has forever changed
the way I approach photography.
- Christopher
> I know it is possible to create these types of images with film and a
> scanner, but the quick turnaround and the ability to perform numerous
> experiments with little cost, time, or effort has encouraged me to try
> things I had only thought about with film. The D30 has forever changed
> the way I approach photography.
Digital is certainly a lot more convienient. I certainly wont shed a tear when film dies.