Canon powershot S60 - DIY LCD Replacement
L_u_c_a_s
this, so I request anybody who may know how to. I already bought the
spare LCD at Canon for a fraction of the camera replacement value.
Thank you in advance!
Darrell
"L_u_c_a_s" <luc...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1121379569.1...@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I am about to replace the LCD of my Canon powershot S60. I never did
> this, so I request anybody who may know how to. I already bought the
> spare LCD at Canon for a fraction of the camera replacement value.
>
Linda Nieuwenstein
"L_u_c_a_s" <luc...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1121379569.1...@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I've never heard of a home user doing something like this on their own, but
I would think taking out the battery and leaving it out might be wise. Are
you sure you can't find a local Eletronics Technician that may do the work
for you at a reasonable price? Looking at my old S30 (whih isn't all that
different in build from your S60) that I still consider a great buy, I think
you will need a special screwdriver or possible a very tiny L-Wrench. I'll
give you and A for being brave to do this on your own. I do hope you fend
okay with the replacement.
Take care,
Linda
Peter A.
screwdrivers and sub-minuature allen keys, they are not expensive.
Please be sure not to buy cheap imports, the tip angle on the
cross-head drivers is often wrong and will 'skip' and chew up the screw
heads.
I would also use a wrist-strap to earth yourself to some part of the
camera chassis; you may touch a pcb track accidentally which leads to a
static sensitive device.
I'm not familiar with this camera at all, so I'll add that if there's
no metal chassis available to you at the outset, I would earth myself
to the battery negative terminal while I worked my way inside. Then
swap the crocodile clip to the first obvious earth you see internally.
Although I'm an aircraft technician and have some experience of this
type of work, I have to say that I wouldn't attempt this unless the
camera had scrap value only... 'cos that's how it may end up.
But nothing ventured, nothing gained... good luck!
Peter A.
half an hour to allow any capacitors to leak away their charge, before
commencing.
Peter A.
http://www.huroncamera.com/canon_parts_diagrams.htm
Thanks to 'd' who posted this link originally.
ASAAR
> I'm not familiar with this camera at all, so I'll add that if there's
> no metal chassis available to you at the outset, I would earth myself
> to the battery negative terminal while I worked my way inside. Then
> swap the crocodile clip to the first obvious earth you see internally.
The earlier S10 and S20 Powershots, as well as the newer S70 have
all metal chassis, so it's very likely that the S60 (which is what
the S70 is based upon) is also a "full metal jacket" camera.
L_u_c_a_s
it anywhere else either (eBay, Google). I wonder if such manual
actually exists.
L_u_c_a_s
never atempt to do this on avionics. The reason I do this is exactly
what you said. Doing nothing is scrapping the camera.
L_u_c_a_s
great. Thank you so much!
Dave Martindale
Actually, remove *both* batteries, if there are two. Some older Canons
have a lithium coin cell to power the date clock as well as the main
camera battery.
Newer Canons use in internal rechargeable battery or supercapacitor,
which is more problematic. It may retain power for many weeks with the
main battery removed.
Dave
Dave Martindale
>I am aware that I am taking some risk by doing this, but I am willing
>to try given the difference in costs between replacing the camera and
>replacing the LCD. My only previous experience is changing the LCD in a
>Palm Pilot, and that worked fine.
That's a good indication you may be able to fix the camera too. Just
work slowly and carefully. You may find the camera more tightly packed
inside than the Palm was.
Oh, and to keep track of what parts came from where, it's a good idea to
document the disassembly process step by step using another digital
camera if you have or can borrow one.
Dave
Peter A.
a series resistor across it? Access to a decent multimeter would be
helpful.
It is, for sure, going to be packed tight in there and I think the idea
of documenting with a macro-capable camera would be *very* useful
indeed.
I have no idea whether you will find these inside a camera or not, but
keep an eye out for small washers (sorry, LOL, they're all going to be
small, aren't they?!), start again, small washers that appear to be
bi-metallic... copper/brass colour on one side and shiny
steel/aluminium colour on the other. You might find them 'under'
things, for no apparant reason. They are designed to prevent galvanic
corrosion taking place between dissimilar metals, and must be replaced
the same way as you found them.
Tip: *lightly* magnetise your screwdriver tip every so often by
stroking it across a magnet. If ferrous, the screw will 'stick' nicely
to the driver. Especially useful for reassembly. 'Outside' screws may
be stainless(won't pick up)
Any type of shakeproof/spring washer will leave tiny metal shavings
behind when undone. Use the magnetic tip to pick them up. Or a vacuum.
*not* a blower.
You will be surprised how much cack accumulates on your magnetised
driver tip. This is a *good thing* - if it's there it's conductive, and
you don't want it inside. Keep wiping the screwdriver clean on a rag,
stroking the little 'hairs' towards the tip and 'pinching' them off.
Then restroke the magnet, and so on. Don't use this method on a
compass, ok?
You may find fasteners with a dollop of (usually) red varnish on them.
Sometimes they're anti-tamper telltales, but sometimes it's to stop
them working lose in the case that a conventional mechanical device
cannot be used. If you're not sure, you can use a single drop of nail
polish applied with a toothpick. Watch for the flake of dry varnish
when you crack them lose, too. If you have any shellac around, that's
the stuff to use.
Excuse pun, but keep us posted as to the outcome.
Peter A.
screw and washer down amongst the gubbins into a hole you can hardly
see.
Have the camera on a scrunched up wodge of tinfoil or a pet's mini
beanbag in a plastic bag (works well) so you can align it in different
attitudes. Set it so you will be lowering the screw straight down into
the threaded hole.
Place a thin piece of wire or similar, couple of inches long, into the
hole and drop the washer down it. Align the washer exactly over the
hole beneath and carefully withdraw the wire. Don't breathe.
If the screw won't stick magnetically, glue it to the driver with a
tiny drop of shellac/nail varnish. Hold it firmly in place until the
last minuit and carefully, you know, through the washer and home. Clean
the driver so it doesn't attract crud but don't attempt to clean the
screw head, the varnish will dry harmlessly.(Now you let go the breath
you were holding)
L_u_c_a_s
replied, I could replace the LCD screen successfuly. It wasn't easy to
remove the LCD and to detach the cable and reconnect it. If you try it,
be careful with the screws. They bounce a lot.
At the end I spend $50 on the spare LCD and avoided replacing the
camera or fixing it at a cost of $300.
:-)
Thank you all!
Peter A.
L_u_c_a_s
Chuffed Lucas :-D