I am looking at a Olympus E-300 with 2 lenses and a E-500 with 1 lense. Both
around the same price . Is the e-500 a much better camera than the E-300 ?
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Why not Minolta, Canon or another Nikon?
> Jasen wrote:
>
>>>I am just about to make the jump from a Nikon 5700 to my first DSLR. I am
>>>looking at two unit and was wondering some things.
>>>
>>>I am looking at a Olympus E-300 with 2 lenses and a E-500 with 1 lense.
>>>Both
>>>around the same price . Is the e-500 a much better camera than the E-300 ?
>>
>>Why not Minolta, Canon or another Nikon?
>
> Mainly price
>
Check reviews:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/default.asp?view=alpha
and look specifically at the features you want as the reason
for moving up (e.g. low light performance, shutter lag, frames
per second, etc.)
Roger
photos: http://www.clarkvision.com
I have the E300. There are some differences in the two cameras - function
wise - that make
the E500 slightly better BUT most people that have the E300 would not
consider the
differences big enough to change. The build quality on the E300 - while a
little strange looking and feeling to some - is much better than the E500.
Go to DPReview as Roger recommends, but ask yourself, how long do you want
to have this camera before you upgrade again? Maybe then think about
spending a little more to really get the better features, ergonomics you
want and get better quality too. Personally I don't like the Olympus line
up, but that's just me. I bought the Minolta 7D and it is pretty damn good
for my hard earned dollar. The new Canon's and Nikon's are equally
impressive too.
I'm probably biased, but I'd suggest trying to stretch the budget to
something like a Canon 20D (or if desperate, a Canon 350D/ XT).
I think the first thing you need to do is establish both a short-term
and long-term budget. Basically, I would expect you'll get hooked on
the capabilities of dSLR photography, and you'll want to expand as much
as possible.
Most advice on this group is from either serious amateurs, gear
junkies, or pros who have a much greater budget than me - by one or two
orders of magnitude. If spending $1000 now for a basic setup might lead
to spending $2000/year on new gear in the future, then you will make
decisions differently than a guy like myself who managed to spend $1000
but won't be spending any more for quite some time. (Some here find my
budget limitations inconceivable or imaginary, but I assure you it's a
normal thing). While my gear has limitations that I occasionally bump
into, it still produces great shots and is far better than the digital
cameras that cost not much less. Try to budget for the best lenses you
can afford, regardless of which system you choose.
So when you say price is an issue, be more specific.
Dave
Collin
Wife will not let me spend over 800 bucks on camera . This is a hard limit.
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Part time job?
--
Would thou choose to meet a rat eating dragon, or
a dragon, eating rat? The answer of: I am somewhere
in the middle. "Me who is part taoist and part Christian".
My schedule does not allow it would have to work every other week . Cause 8
days on at 11 hours each day then 6 days off.
$800 - I presume that means your initial purchase. You need to decide
if later you might buy a couple more lenses and accessories - I can
almost guarantee you'll want to. I personally did something like that -
$550 for a Canon 300D, $200 for a Tamron 75-300mm, $100 for 1GB of CF cards.
Dave
This is first purchase have CF Cards around 5 gigs worth . I have someone who
is going to pay me 2.50 per picture I do per sale he makes on his site . He
sales around 150 photos a month. He mainly needs pictures of Court houses
and such. Historical building in parts of teh state I travel in.
> Wife will not let me spend over 800 bucks on camera . This is a hard
> limit.
You then are a perfect customer for a Pentax DSLR with kit lens (28~80mm
equivalent). Try Froogle for ist-DL or ist-DS2. Any Pentax DSLR is both a
great camera and a great value. I have a ist-DL and love it. Beats anything
in its price range or costing hundreds more.
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Anti-Spam address: my last name at his dot com
Charles Gillen -- Reston, Virginia, USA
Collin
Enjoy,
OldtimerCurt
"Cheesehead" <dplotu...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1136998712.6...@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
"For under $2,000 you can get a 4x5" film camera, lens, scanner and
everything you need to make 100 megapixel images. This is far better
quality than any digital camera at four times the price!"
Collin
--
Joan
"Cheesehead" <dplotu...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1137155957.8...@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
<Ramble>
I do use digital as well as film. But right now most of my snapshots
are digital (Pentax *istDS) and anything "serious" is 4x5.
APX-100 4x5 -- my favorite from 2004:
http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/model.jpg
Really didn't get to do anything at all during 2005.
I'm lining up some for this year. Since it's just a hobby,
once a year is about all I can fit into my life.
</Ramble>
Collin
If you just need a portrait lens, then a 50/1.8 + DSLR is under your
budget.
If you want other lenses, both wide and tele, then to get something
decent you probably need at least $1500 total for the lenses and the
camera.
Minolta 5D: Anti-Shake
Pentax DS: TTL Flash
Nikon D50: 1/500s X Sync
Canon 350D: 8MP
Collin
I thought that the advice of decades for portrait work was to use a lens
longer than 50mm, say 100mm. This was because although 50mm is meant to
reproduce natural perpective of the naked eye there is a subjective
enhancement that leads to a "nose too big" effect. Backing off and using
100mm is more flattering... Of course if taking a group of people this is
all, including the flattery, less relevant!
Mike.
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When doing a manual portrait shot many manual-focus 50/1.4 lenses
are as good but also cost half the af lens. The SMC Pentax-A50/1.4 is
a bargain to be had at any time. Good manual grip, decent
construction, and
contrasty, cool cast. It's a Leica-like blue/purple cast as opposed
the Pentax-M's brownish
cast which is Nikon-like, or the F/FA50/1.4 and the other new Pentax AF
lenses
(that I've seen) which have a very clean brown-purple combination
coating cast.
Collin
Because naked eye does not look at another person that close.
> Backing off and using 100mm is more flattering...
50mm on 1.6x digital is equivalent to 80mm on full frame.
The "normal" focal length on 35mm full frame is 43mm. Longer length
compresses perspective. 85mm, being twice long as normal, is a popular
portrait length. For tight portrait, 135mm at 3 times normal, is often
used. Longer length compresses more, but a longer lens is more
expensive, heavier, of a smaller aperture, more difficult to hand hold,
more difficult to back off...
> Of course if taking a group of people this is all, including the flattery, less relevant!
For group, the camera is farther away, thus the perspective will be
similar to a single person portrait with a longer lens.