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Developing 50 yr old Plus-x

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Steve Barker

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Oct 23, 2001, 12:06:38 AM10/23/01
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I've got on my hands two 523 4x5 film packs that are exposed. The data
sheet tells me to use d-76 at 68 degrees for 17 minutes. These are from
about circa 1950. Do you suppose the d-76 time still holds? Or how would
you all go about developing these 24 4x5's? It is Plus-x panchromatic film.

PS, I have a daylight tank for 4x5.


s

Miller

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Oct 23, 2001, 2:13:14 PM10/23/01
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The recommended time and temp with D-76 will likely render a very poor
fogged negative if anything at all. What will be very important is
how these sheets were stored. The less exposure to oxegen it has had
the better. My company specializes in processing very old film and
have found that old roll film processes much better then anything in a
cassette. We believe that this is because the roll film is protected
from oxidization were as the cassette film (135, 126)is wrapped losely
in the cassette and can mingle with the elements. Sheet film is more
simular to the latter then the former. The way we develop this film
is propriatory but I will tell you that the trick is to use a much
higher potency developer at a very low temperature. Good luck with
it.

Greg Miller
Film Rescue International
1 800 329 8988

Steve Barker

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Oct 23, 2001, 6:35:16 PM10/23/01
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Thanks for the reply Greg. I pulled one from the pack and developed it in
Ilfotec HC 1:31 at 68 for 14 minutes and it is all black. I think they may
be gone. I'm gonna try again with another later tonight and I'll try the
cooler dev for a shorter time and see what happens.


s


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Dominic Roberts

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Oct 24, 2001, 10:45:21 AM10/24/01
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Steve,

Instead of Ilfotec, try Kodak D-19 or D-8 for about 10 mins at very
low temps (10-15 deg C as a start). And experiment! You may just hit
upon success.

Both Greg and I run propriatory processes for old material in our labs
and it has taken much research to get the results. Using a standard
process you have found the negative to be fogged, but you may end up
with a dense but printable neg with a modified D-8 formula.

Good luck (again!)

Dominic Roberts, 'Process C-22'
http://www.processc22.co.uk


"Steve Barker" <nu...@bisness.com> wrote in message news:<EgmB7.232488$ME2.31...@typhoon.kc.rr.com>...

Ralf R. Radermacher

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Oct 24, 2001, 11:21:25 AM10/24/01
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Dominic Roberts <proce...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> Instead of Ilfotec, try Kodak D-19 or D-8 for about 10 mins at very
> low temps (10-15 deg C as a start). And experiment! You may just hit
> upon success.

He may want to cut one sheet into strips for further testing. Nothing
would be more annoying than finding the right dev and time with only a
single sheet left... :)))

Ralf

--
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - Köln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage: http://www.free-photons.de
manual cameras and picture galleries - updated 26 Sept. 2001
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Steve Barker

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Oct 24, 2001, 1:12:53 PM10/24/01
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Thanks for the reply. Before I go and buy something else that may never be
used again, would it be safe to assume that if there were in fact an image,
and the films in fact had NOT been exposed to light, that I could see an
image with the developer I have? I'm willing to gamble one or two more
sheets at a reduced time and temperature to see if there are images. Say if
the films HAD been exposed to light, then even a small amount of development
should blacken them eh?

steve


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