Ansco Super Hypan Film
Francis A. Miniter
and would like to develop it. The package insert (this is from about
1962-64) gives development times for the following developers:
Isodol
Permadol
Normadol
Finex-L.
Unfortunately, I have never heard of these developers. Any ideas?
Nowhere can I find any information about development with "normal"
developers, such as D-76. I have checked my copy of the 1967 British
Journal of Photography Annual (no references to Ansco black and white
film at all) and my 1972 Photographic Lab Manual by Amphoto (also no
references to Ansco black and white film). Any suggestions for
development would be much appreciated.
As a sidelight, I also have now a number of sealed, unused rolls of this
film, with a "use by" date of 1964. Any suggestions about a suggested
film speed (Ansco suggested ASA 500 for the film when fresh)? I should
note that the film has been stored in a barn for about 35 years.
Francis A. Miniter
ArtKramr
>From: "Francis A. Miniter" min...@attglobal.net
>Date: 1/22/01 9:01 PM Pacific Standard Time
>Message-id: <3A6D1039...@attglobal.net>
I always gave it 8 minutes in D-76. @ 68F. Agitate continiously for the first
30 seconds then 10 seconds per minute thereafter.
Arthur Kramer
Las Vegas NV
Nicholas O. Lindan
>
> I have come across an exposed roll of Ansco Super Hypan roll film (620)
> and would like to develop it.
>
> developers, such as D-76.
>
> film, with a "use by" date of 1964. Any suggestions about a suggested
> film speed (Ansco suggested ASA 500 for the film when fresh)? I should
> note that the film has been stored in a barn for about 35 years.
You may want to expose one of the unused rolls at 500, cut it up, and
use it for developing trials.
I wouldn't raise much hope if it has been in a barn.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio noli...@ix.netcom.com
Technical Management Consulting & Engineering Services:
New Product Development; Electrical Engineering;
Software, System and Circuit Design. Oh, & Photography
filmr...@my-deja.com
will likely end up in a very low contrast dense negative. You will
need to add restrainer to your developer to reduce the inevitable base
fog problems this film will have. With the formula we are using we
about triple the resulting gamma and boast about 90% success on pre
1970's B&W film. Our record for getting an image is from an
unprocessed film dating from the 1920's. The fact that your film is a
roll film is a big plus providing it was rolled tightly. The backing
paper on these films went a long way in protecting the film from
oxidization which is a bigger problem than base fog conciderations. I
am uncomfortable giving this formula out as a general posting as it
took a long time to arrive at it and being a commercial operation it
should remain propriatary but if you would like to call I will help you
further.
Greg Miller
Film Rescue International
Processors of old film and formats still/motion picture
1 800 329 8988
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
Adam
> As a sidelight, I also have now a number of sealed, unused rolls of
this
> film, with a "use by" date of 1964. Any suggestions about a
suggested
> film speed (Ansco suggested ASA 500 for the film when fresh)? I
should
> note that the film has been stored in a barn for about 35 years.
>
I'd probably just pull the film off the reels, and wind some fresh 120
film on. If you want to use the old film, I'd sacrifice a roll to film
speed tests.
ka...@pop.bois.uswest.net
"Francis A. Miniter" wrote:
Hi Francis. I've obtained printable negatives from a variety of mystery
films using Diafine two bath developer, although probably not as good as the
results that Greg Miller gets with his top secret formula. If you can get
him to part with it, that sounds like the way to go. Good luck!
Sincerely,
J. De Fehr
Robert L. Vervoordt
On Tue, 23 Jan 2001 00:01:46 -0500, "Francis A. Miniter"
<min...@attglobal.net> wrote:
>I have come across an exposed roll of Ansco Super Hypan roll film (620)
>and would like to develop it. The package insert (this is from about
>1962-64) gives development times for the following developers:
>
>Isodol
Try Dk-50
>Permadol
Try DK-60a
>Normadol
Duh!
>Finex-L.
Microdol\X or the Ilford Perceptol.
>
>Unfortunately, I have never heard of these developers. Any ideas?
>
>Nowhere can I find any information about development with "normal"
>developers, such as D-76. I have checked my copy of the 1967 British
>Journal of Photography Annual (no references to Ansco black and white
>film at all) and my 1972 Photographic Lab Manual by Amphoto (also no
>references to Ansco black and white film). Any suggestions for
>development would be much appreciated.
Photo Lab Index had a lot of it. The data has probably been "updated"
out of the newer editions.
>
>As a sidelight, I also have now a number of sealed, unused rolls of this
>film, with a "use by" date of 1964. Any suggestions about a suggested
>film speed (Ansco suggested ASA 500 for the film when fresh)? I should
>note that the film has been stored in a barn for about 35 years.
Here's what I would do, as I have done this kind of thing before with
Super Hypan in the mid 1980s.
Mix up something like Sease #3, where the PPD is replaced by Kodak CD-4
and doubled in quantity and the Glycin is increased by 50%. Add Kodalk
as an accelerator, about 5 to 10 grams and 0.5 grams of Bromide, not
Iodide, to retard the formation of fog. Ansco Super Hypan was a two
layer film, so the use of Iodide can really throw off the rate of
development in the layers
For testing, cut off the length of film that will give you one or two
images and try them out at 10 minutes at 68f as a start. This way you
can hone in on the correct treatment, or bail out and use something
else on what's left of the roll if it doesn't work.
Think about what you're doing as you work, and have fun.
Robert L. Vervoordt
<rl...@mindspring.com>
Robert L. Vervoordt
>
>Hi Francis. I've obtained printable negatives from a variety of mystery
>films using Diafine two bath developer, although probably not as good as the
>results that Greg Miller gets with his top secret formula. If you can get
>him to part with it, that sounds like the way to go. Good luck!
>
>Sincerely,
>
>J. De Fehr
Good suggestion. I'd just caution not to use Any developer that has
just been mixed. If you can't put some other film through it after
mixing, light struck paper will do, especially cold tone enlarging
paper, as it usually contains some bromide. Try 2 sheets of 8x10 as a
start.
Using Diafine , I always found it got better with use. I mixed up two
batches of A and B, reserving one for replenisher. I poured one ounce
for each roll developed and poured back only enough of the working
solutions to bring the level to the original mark.
Diafine worked well with Super Hypan when I was using them.
Robert L. Vervoordt
<rl...@mindspring.com>