Need toner recipes
Jade7773
Ok
I was wondering if anyone had the recipie for a iron blue, a copper or a green
toner. Any help would be great
nick
Tim Daneliuk
I think you may find Anchell's book "The Darkroom Cookbook" most
helpful...
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Tim Daneliuk Work: tim.da...@ps.net
VoiceMail/FAX 847.827.1706 Personal: tun...@tundraware.com
Richard Knoppow
jade...@aol.com (Jade7773) wrote:
>Ok
>I was wondering if anyone had the recipie for a iron blue, a copper or a green
>toner. Any help would be great
>nick
Kodak Iron Toner T-12
Ferric Ammonium Citrate (green scales) 4.0 gm
Oxalic Acid, Crystals 4.0 gm
Potassium Ferricyanide 4.0 gm
Water to make 1.0 liter
Dissolve each chemical separately and filter before mixing together.
Immerse the well-washed print in th e toning bath for 10 to 15
minutes until the disired tone is obtained. Then wash until the
highlights are clear.
A somewhat different toner is
Ansco 241
Water at 125F 500.0 ml
Ferric Amommonium Citrate 8.0 gm
Potassium Ferricyanide 8.0 gm
Acetic Acid (28%) 265.0 ml
Water to make 1.0 liter
The solution should be prepared with distilled waer if posible.
Prints to be toned should be fixed in plain, non-hardening hypo bath.
When prints have been fully toned in the above solution they will be
greenish in appearance, but will be easily washed out to a clear blue
color when placed in running water.
The toner will slightly intensify the image.
Wash water should be acidified slightly with Acetic Acid since the
blue tone is quite soluable in alkaline solutions and is considerably
weakened when wash water is alkaline.
Note that any contact with Iron or traces of Iron in the water will
result in blue staining or streaking with any of these blue toners!
Ilford has yet another variation but it requires concentrated
Sulfuric acid so we'll leave that one.
I'll post Copper Toner and a couple of Green toners later.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
CGhol455
Check out The Darkroom Cookbook. It has a lot of recipes in it. Also
somewhere in the Web you can find The Forumlary ??. It has a lot of chemicals
to make your own toners or you can buy the toners outright from them.
Richard Knoppow
jade...@aol.com (Jade7773) wrote:
>Ok
>I was wondering if anyone had the recipie for a iron blue, a copper or a green
>toner. Any help would be great
>nick
Continuing with toner formulae.
Copper toner. Steven Anchell gives a formula in _The Darkroom
Cookbook_ (which you should get) for a Dassonville toner. There is a
similar toner given in the British Journal Almanac for 1961 with
variations.
Dassonville T-5
Solution A
Copper Sulfate 6.5 gm
Potassium Chloride, neutral 25.0 gm
Cold water to make 1.0 liter
Solution B
Potassium Ferricyanide 5.5 gm
Potassium Citrate, neutral 25.0 gm
Water to make 1.0 liter
Take equal parts of A and B. Immerse the thoroughly washed prits one
at a time, and tone until the desired color is reached. The prints
will progeess from black to deep brown and filally to red chalk. As
it is important to remove prints at the exact moment that the desired
color is obtained, a guide print should be toned first. Wash prints
for 1/2 hour after toning.
If pinkish tints show up in toning, add more Potassium citrate to
Solution B.
For maximum permanence, prints should be toned as deeply as
ppossible, given a bath in weak hypo, treated with a washing aid and
washed. However, any print toned to less than chalk red should not be
treated with hypo.
Prints that appear weak after toning can be strengthened by
immersing in a bath composed of the following:
Copper Sulfate 48.0 gm
Potassium Bromide 24.0 gm
Acetic Acid, 28% 50.0 ml
Water to make 1.0 liter
Prints should be washed for 1/2 hour after using this bath.
All of these solutions have short lifetimes and should be mixed fresh
each time.
The BJ Almanac formula is essentially the same for Solution A but
gives a Solution B which is about ten times as strong!
British Journal Solution B
Potassium ferricyanide 50.0 gm
Potassium Citrate 240.0 gm
Water to make 1.0 liter
According to Clerk Copper toned images are not sensitive to alkaline
wash water as Iron blue is so ordinary tap water can be used for
washing.
Some Green toners will follow.
Richard Knoppow
dick...@ix.netcom.com (Richard Knoppow) wrote:
>jade...@aol.com (Jade7773) wrote:
>
>>Ok
>>I was wondering if anyone had the recipie for a iron blue, a copper or a green
>>toner. Any help would be great
>>nick
>
> Continuing with toner formulae.
>
>
Last installment (Whew)
A couple of Green toner formulas.
Both of these are included in Steve Anchell's book _The Darkroom
Cookbook_ which should be a resident in any well-equipped darkroom.
Even if you don't intend to mix your own its interesting and sometimes
helpful to see what is in commonly used photogrphic solutions.
Geveart GT-16
This formula is most effective on warm-toned paperss. give 10% to 25%
more exposure than usual.
GT-16
Solution A
Oxalic acid 7.8 gm
Ferric Chloride 1.0 gm
Ferric Oxalate 1.0 gm
Cold at 68F 285.0 ml
Solution B
Potassium ferricyanide 2.0 gm
Water 285.0 ml
Solution C
Hydrocholoric acid, concentrated# 30.0 ml
Vanadium Chloride 2.0 gm
Water to make 285.0 ml
Mixing instructions for part C
Add acid to water (Important, do not add water to acid). Heat the
solution to the boiling point and add the Vanadium Chloride.
To use mix solution A with B and then add C with vigorous stirring.
Tone in the mixed solution until the print appears beep blue. then
remove and wash until the one changes to green. After the green tone
appears, continue to wash for an additional 10 minutes. Treat the
print in Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent and then wash for one hour.
(assuming fiber prints).
If a yellowish stain appears, uyou can remove it by placing the
print in the following solution:
Ammonium Sulfocyanide 1.6 gm
Water 285.0 ml
This should be done before treating the print with a washing aid and
giving the final wash.
Ansco Green Toner
This is really a combination of a sulphiding sepia toner and an Iron
blue toner.
Ansco recommended this for their warmest toned papers. It should
work well with Kodak Ektalure and other "brown" tone papers.
Ansco 251
Solution A
Water 1.0 liter
Potassium Ferricyanide 40.0 gm
Ammonia (0.91 SG, 25% by weight) 15.0 ml
Solution B
Water 1.0 liter
Ferric Ammonium Citrate 17.0 gm
Hydrochloric Acid, concentrated 40.0 ml
Solution C
Water 1.0 liter
Sodium Sulfide 2.0 gm
Hydrochloric Acid, Concentrated* 10.0 ml
*NOTE do not add Hydrochloric acid to Solution C until just before
use.
Black-and-White prints to be toned should be darker and softer
than a normal print, using apporximately 25% overexposure on teh nexxt
softer grade of paper Development of h te print should be carried out
in a suitible developer (Dektol or Ektonol will do in place of the
Ansco ones originally suggested) with particular attention given to
avoid under-development or forcing the print with over-development.
Prints fshould be fixed as usual, thoroughly washed and completely
dried before toning.
Prints to be toned should be first soaked in cold water until limp
and then placed in solution A until bleadhed. This operation should
be completed in 60 seconds or less, and the bleached prints
immediately transferred to running water where thorough washing (at
least 30 minutes) is effected.
Bleached prints are then placed in Solution B for 45 seconds to 1
minute, toning being permitted to continue until the deepest shadows
are completely toned. prints should be then be washed briefly (4 to 6
minutes), excessive washing being undesirable in view of the
soluabliity of the blue image, If wash water is slightly alkaline, it
should be acidified somewhat with acitic acid to prevent degradation
of the blue tone during washing.
The Blue toned prints are next immersed in Solution C until the
green tone is sufficiently strong, The operation requireing about 30
seconds. Toned prints should then fecieve a final washing of 20 to 30
minutes in neutral or slightly acidified wash water and dried. Avoid
excessive heat when drying.
All solutions should be prepared within 24 hours of use. Great care
should be taken to avoid contanimation of Solutions A and B. Even
slight traces of solution A carried over into solution B can cause
blue stains. Solution C should be used in a well ventilated room,
preferably near an open window or exhause fan to lessen chance of
inhaling Hydrogen Sulfide formed in the solution.
(Note, these istructions taken from the original Ansco publication
rather than _The Darkroom Cookbook_ They obviously apply to fiber
base paper. What changes would have to be made for use with RC paper
is a matter of experimentation. Certainly the wash times would be much
less.
Special Note. It should be obvious that wash aids should NEVER be
used with this process except prior to the original wash. Any
alkaline solution will dissolve the blue Iron image.)
There are many variations of both these formulae.
As a final note I strongly suggest looking at the MSDS for all the
chemicals (you can find them at http://hazard com or
http://www.siri.org) and reading up on chemical safety.
Concentrated acids of any sort should be handled with great care.
Hydrochloric and Sulfuric acid are much stronger than the usual Acetic
acid and evolve heat when mixed with water. Its important to add the
acid to the water when diluting it. Otherwise it can boil and
splatter you with acid. Wear protective (acid proof) clothing,
gloves, goggles, and a face mask or respirator when working with
chemicals of this sort.
It is also wise to have a means of rapidly washing off any acid that
gets on you close by.
I don't want to be paranoid about the use of chemicals but some are
quite hazardous and those hazards should be known and protected
against by the user.