toning my pics crazy and bright colors
Bryan Black
based photos bright shades of orange, blue, yellow, green etc...
Can anybody recommend one?
Norman Worth
and use software to get wildly colored prints.
On the purely chemical level, there are a couple of possibilities. The
first is dye toning. It colors the gelatin or a mordant converted from the
image. Gelatin dyes color the entire print, and the dark silver image gives
shading. Mordant dyes color mostly the image. A common mordant is silver
ferricyanide - converting the image by bleaching in potassium ferricyanide.
You can experiment with fabric dyes for either method. Berg makes dye
toners in a limited color range especially for photography. Anchell, "The
Darkroom Cookbook", Focal Press, has a couple of formulas and the formula
for Kodak T-20 is somewhere on the web. For the real adventurous, there is
dye coupler toning. It works like Kodachrome, where the image is colored
using a color developer incorporating couplers. Materials for this process
may be hard to find, and you will probably have to adapt any formulas you
find. There is at least one formula floating around on the web, and you
could adapt the K-14 color developer formulas for other couplers. (The
Dignan Newsletter published the K-14 formulas some time ago, and they are
probably in some of the Kodak professional documentation.) Coupler
information is hard to find.
Of course, the regular photographic toners can produce quite a variety of
tones - all kinds of browns and blues, reds, oranges, yellows, greens,
purples. Formulas are on the web and in Anschell. It can also be fun to
play with developers that can give you a variety of browns from peach to
brown-black. The litho printing processes are popular these days (using
dilute litho developer with ordinary paper). Results vary a lot with paper
and technique - a real experimenter's dream. Formulas like Gevaert G.261
and G.262 or Agfa 125 can be interesting with the right paper, especially
when highly diluted.
"Bryan Black" <bcb...@myrealbox.com> wrote in message
news:c593a1f2.03050...@posting.google.com...
Tobias Begalke
Rudman at this location: http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Lith/lith.html.
For further examples take a look at
http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/galerie/galerie.php?typ=beispiele&galerie=beispiele/se5lith
and
http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/galerie/galerie.php?typ=workshops&galerie=workshops/lith
You'll get orange, blue (w/gold toner), yellow and pink tones easily that
way. The image colour depends on the choice of paper and dilution of lith
developer so it's controllable within a certain range.
Cheers,
Tobias
Richard Knoppow
rather bright blue-print blue can be gotten with an iron
toner but the image is subject to fading when displayed. It
will regenerate on being stored in the dark.
A fairly bright chalk red can be gotten by first sepia
toning and then toning in gold. These images are quite
permanent.
However, for bright colors, probably dye toning is best.
The print is first bleached in a solution which mordants
dyes. It is then treated in a dye solution. The image is
dyed in proportion to its density. The problem with dye
toning is obtaining suitable dyes. Kodak published complete
instructions for dye toning using a ferricyanade bleach but
the list of dyes is now some more than thirty years old and
Eastman Kodak no longer sells dyes.
The instructions are too long to post here.
For blue tones Iron toner works but note the above warning
about permanence. Here are two Iron toners.
Kodak T-12
For Blue Tones on Paper Prints
Ferric Ammonium Citrate (green scales) 4.0 grams
Oxalic Acid, crystals 4.0 grams
Potassium Ferricyanide 4.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter
Note: Oxalic acid is quite toxic.
Dissolve each ingredient separately and filter before mixing
together.
Immerse the well washed print in the toning bath for 10 to
15 minutes or until the desired tone is obtained. Then wash
until highlights are clear
Note that aklaline wash water will fade the color. Prints
should be washed in successive changes of water to which a
little Acetic acid has been added.
Ansco/Agfa Iron Blue Toner No.241
Water (at 125F or 52C) 500.0 ml
Ferric Ammonium Citrate 8.0 grams
Potassium Ferricyanide 8.0 grams
Acetic Acid, 28% 256.0 ml
Water to make 1.0 liter
The toner should be mixed with distilled water if possible.
Prints for toning should be fixed in a plain,
non-hardening hypo bath.
When prints have been toned in the above solution they
will be greenish in appearance, but will be easily washed
out to a clear blue color when placed in running water.
Note as above the necessity of washing in slightly acid
water after toning.
These toners are slightly intensifying so prints may be
made slightly lighter than desired for the final image.
Treating the print in a 5% Borax bath will reduce the
brilliance of the color if desired
Like nearly all toners these produce the greatest effect
on warm toned paper.
It is possible to tone prints green by a combination of
Iron and Sepia toning but the color is not very brilliant.
There is also a Vanadium toner which produces a brighter
green but the Vanadium is difficult to obtain.
Vanadium is capable of toning prints yellow but I don't
have a working formula, and again, the chemical is hard to
obtain.
I know of no orange toners except by dyeing.
It is also possible to produce a range of colors by
chromogenic means. The silver image is bleached out after
fixing and re-developed in a developer containing a dye
coupler. I may have some formulas for this but its another
case of the chemicals being hard to obtain. I have even
heard of making full color prints by painting on developers
with suitable couplers in them. This can also be done with
dyes and a mordanted image although in both cases the dyes
will migrate a bit. Sounds like procedures for someone with
too much time on their hands.
--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dick...@ix.netcom.com
Jef
> I am bored and was wondering if there is toner that can turn my silver
> based photos bright shades of orange, blue, yellow, green etc...
>
> Can anybody recommend one?
My most recent post to this group was on exactly the same thing. I
made it May 10. It is about the Berg color toning system. There may be
some interesting responses, but as I just got it yesterday I cannot
recommend it *yet*.
Jeff Haddock
http://inDigital.ca