Best Spotting Brush

[Dennis McNutt]

What is the best spotting brush for B/W prints when using Spotone dyes?
Nylon vs sable, etc.? And is one brand particularly superior to another?

[Paul and Paula Butzi]

If your experience matches mine, you'll find that sable brushes are
vastly superior to synthetics both in terms of how sharp a point you
can get and in how much dye can be held by the brush.

I have two Isabey series 6229 watercolor detailing brushes sizes 0 and
00, which I like a lot.

Lots of people seem to use and like the Windsor and Newton Series 7
brushes.

My observation is that, without exception, the spotting brushes sold
in camera stores are worthless, overpriced junk.

Go to a good art supply store, and ask to see their selection of
good sable watercolor brushes. Pick ones that come to a good
point. A really good brush is more expensive (figure on the order
of $8 for an Isabey brush like the ones I use) but much cheaper
than the cost of the paper for the prints you'll ruin with a cheap
brush.

If you don't have a good art store you could buy them from
Daniel Smith, a reputable art supply place here in Seattle
that does business over the WWW.

The URL for the brushes I like is:
http://www.danielsmith.net/categories-isabey-6229.html

-Paul

--
Newly updated and moved web site at:
http://www.butzi.net

[Lloyd Erlick]

Paul and Paula Butzi <bu...@halcyon.com> wrote:

>If your experience matches mine, you'll find that sable brushes are
>vastly superior to synthetics both in terms of how sharp a point you
>can get and in how much dye can be held by the brush.
>
>I have two Isabey series 6229 watercolor detailing brushes sizes 0 and
>00, which I like a lot.
>
>Lots of people seem to use and like the Windsor and Newton Series 7
>brushes.
>
>My observation is that, without exception, the spotting brushes sold
>in camera stores are worthless, overpriced junk.

...

sep1600 from Lloyd Erlick,

I came to print spotting somewhat late in life; my first attempt was
with a cheap brush. It was fortunate for me I was old enough to know
the old saw about 'a poor workman blames his tools...' was bunk.
Crappy brushes are not for print spotting.

I use a Winsor and Newton series 7, size 000. I love it, and it has
lasted for years and years.

One problem with low quality brushes for print spotting is that the
worker can conclude he or she lacks the ability, or that the skill is
too much trouble to learn. Start with the best brush, even if it's a
twenty dollar tool.

I spot prints first thing in the morning, only. As someone said in
this newsgroup lately, maybe it's a senior moment. My hands are
steadiest in the morning...

I'd like to add a W+N size 00. Pretty daring, eh??

regards,
--le
-------------------------------------
Lloyd Erlick,
357 Richmond Street West,
Toronto M5V 1X3 Canada.
---
voice 416-596-8751
ll...@the-wire.com
http://www.heylloyd.com
-------------------------------------

[Peter De Smidt]

Dick Blick has many fine brushes. I like the pure kolinsky sable brushes.
They really aren't that expensive.

Peter
Lloyd Erlick <ll...@the-wire.com> wrote in message
news:39c3ac18...@news.the-wire.com...

[Amilcar de Oliveira]

I use a Kolinski #000 brush. I think a good brush should have a good point
but should be also somewhat stiff or it will bend when you touch the paper
and leave a line and not a spot. If your brush has a very thin point and
bends, you might want to trim it a little with a razor blade.

Regards,
Amilcar

[L. J. Powell]

Dennis McNutt wrote:

> What is the best spotting brush for B/W prints when using Spotone dyes?
> Nylon vs sable, etc.? And is one brand particularly superior to another?

I use Grumbacher sable, size 00000. I've used the same brush for almost 25
years, so the first cost was irrelevant.

--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Louie J. Powell, APSA
Glenville, NY USA

http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Maison/7881/

"Entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem"
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

[PDB122]

>Best Spotting Brush

Any brand sable brush is far superior to nylon for spotting.

[Mel1wood1]

In article <39C3E8BE...@domain.com.br>, Amilcar de Oliveira
<ami...@domain.com.br> writes:

>I use a Kolinski #000 brush. I think a good brush should have a good point
>but should be also somewhat stiff or it will bend when you touch the paper
>and leave a line and not a spot. If your brush has a very thin point and
>bends, you might want to trim it a little with a razor blade.
>
>Regards,
>Amilcar
>
>Dennis McNutt wrote:
>

Please be careful trimming with a razor!!!!!
Once this cut is made the brushs' tip, it does not react nor does it have a
good feel to it any more. I've ruined a few brushes like this trying to improve
the tip. I think the shaft of hair is the natural tip of the actual hair, once
its cut/trimmed, you have removed the natural tip, and are now with a "shaft"
which just doesn't work as well.
I'm not sure, but I think the brush when it is constructed in the factory, has
a point on it that is more than likely going to be the best it will be.
mel

[Amilcar de Oliveira]

I think this is a very iffy matter, since there are no two brushes really
alike. In order that the customer can compare brushes, good shops have a glass of
water in the brush section so you can wet the brush and make a natural point on it
with a flick of the wrist. Then you can choose the best (that rules out mail order
buying). Next thing is stiffness, so the brush doesn't bend and leave a trace. If
the brush you've bought still bends too much, _then_ you can take a look at the
size of the spots you're trying to retouch and cut the brush where it's diameter is
smaller than the spots. That's what worked for me and a retouching brush lasts a
looong time. I hope I have expressed myself better than in the other message.
Wow! Tactile feedback from a #000 brush? You must have very sensitive fingers.
I think the best way to work is with a high magnification loupe, and trust my eyes
and not my fingers. Still, each to his own.

Best regards,
Amilcar