Developing Tri-X

[Steve Beyers]

After developing and drying 35 mm Tri-X, I sometimes notice a slight
purplish or maroon colored tinge in the transparent (non-exposed)
areas of the film. It doesn't seem to affect printing. Am
I doing something wrong in the developing process, or is this
normal?

Steve

[ArtKramr]

>Subject: Developing Tri-X
>From: sjbe...@trianglenet.net (Steve Beyers)
>Date: 10/13/02 7:10 AM Pacific Daylight Time
>Message-id: <72befaab.02101...@posting.google.com>

Fix longer and make sure your fiixer isn't weak.

Arthur Kramer
Visit my WW II B-26 website at:
http://www.coastcomp.com/artkramer

[Bogdan Karasek]

Hi,

Could be that you aren't fixing your negatives long enough or
your fixer is worn out.

Regards,
Bogdan

--
__________________________________________________________________
Bogdan Karasek
Montréal, Québec e-mail: bkar...@videotron.ca
Canada

"Wovon man nicht sprechen kann, darüber muss man schweigen"
"What we cannot speak about we must pass over in silence"
Ludwig Wittgenstein
________________________________________________________________

[Jeff Novick]

This is a common occurrence with some films. Sometimes fixing longer or
stronger works. Sometimes nothing will take it away. I've tried everything
that people have recommended and there is no one thing that works for me. I
think it is something not to worry about as I still get satisfactory
results.

Jeff

"Steve Beyers" <sjbe...@trianglenet.net> wrote in message
news:72befaab.02101...@posting.google.com...

[some dude]

hypo-check.

On Sun, 13 Oct 2002 16:52:04 GMT, "Jeff Novick" <jhno...@pacbell.net>
wrote:

[Tony Spadaro]

The anti-halation backing is purplish, and it can mean it wasn't completely
removed by the fixer. Much depends on HOW purple it is -- even fully fixed
Tri-X has a faint tinge most of the time. I've got purplish Tri-X negs
almost 40 years old that are still jes'fine.

--
http://chapelhillnoir.com
and partial home of
The Camera-ist's Manifesto
The Links are at
http://home.nc.rr.com/tspadaro/links.html

"Steve Beyers" <sjbe...@trianglenet.net> wrote in message
news:72befaab.02101...@posting.google.com...

[Richard Knoppow]

"Steve Beyers" <sjbe...@trianglenet.net> wrote in message
news:72befaab.02101...@posting.google.com...

This seems to be characteristic of Tri-X. The new version
is not supposed to do it.
Tri-X should be treated like T-Max when it comes to
fixing. It takes longer to fix than other films. I recommend
using a two bath system and using rapid fixer rather than
conventional fixer. A wash aid treament before washing may
also remove the residue as it does with T-Max.
I haven't shot much Tri-X lately prefering T-Max 400 so I
can't testify about the current stain situation. When I was
shooting Tri-X roll film I did not get this stain.
I suggest re-wetting the film and treating it in wash aid
followed by a five minute wash to see if the stain is
removed.
It may not be the result of incomplete fixing but that's
always a possibility.

--

---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dick...@ix.netcom.com

[Francis A. Miniter]

In addition to the suggestions regarding fixing, be sure to use a hypo
clearing rinse. I find that this gets out residual color in the
anti-halation backing.

Francis A. Miniter

[Richard Knoppow]

"Tony Spadaro" <tspa...@ncmaps.rr.com> wrote in message
news:R7nq9.14417$UZ1.7...@twister.southeast.rr.com...

> The anti-halation backing is purplish, and it can mean it
wasn't completely
> removed by the fixer. Much depends on HOW purple it is --
even fully fixed
> Tri-X has a faint tinge most of the time. I've got
purplish Tri-X negs
> almost 40 years old that are still jes'fine.
>

Anti-halation is a dye in the anti-curling back coating.
Its decolorized by the alkali in the developer. One easy way
to see if a residual color is this dye is to soak a sample
of the film in a fairly alkaline developer like Dektol for a
few minutes. If its the dye it will become clear in a few
seconds.

--

---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dick...@ix.netcom.com

[dr bob]

After some rather extensive qualitative testing and observation, I have come
to the following conclusion. First, the anti-halation coating is _not_ the
source of the purple color. Second, the chemicals in the fixer are not
responsible for removal or at lease diminishment of the color - the water
solvent _is_.

If one places developed and fixed (2-bath) roll film in a water bath, the
color will slowly diffuse from the film into the water. Hypo clearing
solution accelerates this effect. Additional fixing has no more effect than
plain water for the same time. Color in 4x5 Tri-X clears quickly in the
"holding tray" and requires no further processing.

The tint does not affect the print or printing process in any noticeable way
if allowed to remain. I think the best advise is to use the best, freshest
chemicals and proper procedures in the development, and live with the
results. If the tint really bothers you, try soaking the film in filtered
tap water or distilled water for about 10 minutes and check for results.

Truly, dr bob.
"Richard Knoppow" <dick...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:aogn12$cua$1...@slb1.atl.mindspring.net...

[Tony Spadaro]

I can tell you from my experrience using a pre-soak that a lot of the
purple pours out with the pre-soak, which is just distilled water. I won't
argue as to what it actually is as I'm not a chemist, but yes a lot comes
out in the water.

--
http://chapelhillnoir.com
and partial home of
The Camera-ist's Manifesto
The Links are at
http://home.nc.rr.com/tspadaro/links.html

"dr bob" <rsm...@dmv.com> wrote in message
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