Costel E6 chemicals?? Other experiences?
Malcolm Stewart
months with total success, suddenly I've run into problems. Costel E6 is a 1st.
dev, reversal bath, colour dev, bleach-fixer system plus intermediate washes
etc. I'm using a Jobo rotary tank DuoLab system which takes care of agitation
and temperature. My latest 2 films have low base density where I'd expect
maximum black i.e. the unexposed rebates. I suspect the colour dev. is not up
to strength or whatever - but supplied concentrates look fine. Final
stabilisation bath / wetting agent rinse is done with film off the spiral in a
separate tank so that the spiral doesn't get contaminated with formaldehyde.
Temperatures are OK, and timings are exactly as earlier successful runs. (And
I'm aerating the blix before use - just as before.) I've always used a "use
once, discard" system so dev. ageing isn't an issue, and I allowed adequate time
between making up and using the chemicals. Water for solutions is moderately
hard tap-water with de-ionised water for the final rinse to help prevent drying
marks.
As I said, supplied chemicals look OK and when made up behaved just as before in
that the colour dev. turns slightly blue just after mixing.
Films showing problems are 35mm Sensia 100 and Elite Extra Color - although I
mainly use Provia 100F, both films have been processed correctly in the past.
Any chance that my colour dev is mis-labelled and is actually a C41 mix?
Any simple checks I could do? e.g. pH? using litmus paper or similar.
--
M Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK
Tom Phillips
Malcolm Stewart wrote:
> Having used Costel E6 chemicals (reputedly based on Fuji-Hunt) for the last 30
> months with total success, suddenly I've run into problems. Costel E6 is a 1st.
> dev, reversal bath, colour dev, bleach-fixer system plus intermediate washes
> etc. I'm using a Jobo rotary tank DuoLab system which takes care of agitation
> and temperature. My latest 2 films have low base density where I'd expect
> maximum black i.e. the unexposed rebates.
I don't know what "unexposed rebates" is. I assume by low base density you mean low
maximum density, i.e., D-Max areas appear too light as opposed to a general overall
lightness? I also assume you're not running control strips and measuring the
densities? If so, what color are D-max areas tinted -- blue, green, or blue green?
> I suspect the colour dev. is not up
> to strength or whatever - but supplied concentrates look fine.
I've never used Costel (Kodak or trebla), but if strictly a D-max issue more likely
it's too concentrated. Or the 1st Dev. is either contaminated or the starter
omitted.
Malcolm Stewart
Thanks for the quick response.
The general density is about correct, but the D-Max areas are too light and have
a blue tint seen against my light box. About the only visible difference
between earlier batches of chemicals (which worked fine) and this current batch
is that this batch doesn't have any crystals of preservative in the 1st. dev
bottles - so I suppose the 1st.dev could be off or at the wrong pH. Colour
looks OK. The kit doesn't use a "starter".
(Don't have a densitometer so can't measure the D-Max or any other D!)
I'm not running control strips, and my previous results using a "use once and
discard" policy were fine. Cost a bit more but I certainly used to get very
consistent results, better than some of the commercial outlets in my local area.
--
M Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK
Tom Phillips <nosp...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:3DAB31EA...@aol.com...
>
snip
>
> I don't know what "unexposed rebates" is. I assume by low base density you
mean low
> maximum density, i.e., D-Max areas appear too light as opposed to a general
overall
> lightness? I also assume you're not running control strips and measuring the
> densities? If so, what color are D-max areas tinted -- blue, green, or blue
green?
>
Tom Phillips
Malcolm Stewart wrote:
> Hi,
> Thanks for the quick response.
> The general density is about correct, but the D-Max areas are too light and have
> a blue tint seen against my light box.
My control book indicates that bluish, low D-Max areas relate to starter. Other
D-Max issues can be caused by too-concentrated color developer, 1st dev.
contamination, or reversal bath ineffectiveness. For those a green tint would be
present. 1st dev. contaminated with fixer should produce a blue-green tint with low
density; it might also possibly be that your color developer is contaminated and/or
PH is off (i.e., too acid.)
As I'm not familiar with the Costel stuff and as you have no control strip info
it's really hard to pin point anything. I would suggest remixing fresh solutions
(don't mix fixers etc. in same containers as developers), making sure you follow
all the manufacturer's instructions. I'd expect Costel should have a customer line
for E-6 troubleshooting. If not, I'd switch brands. Before starting over I'd call
them and describe your problem and proceedures. The can also check your lot numbers
for freshness of the chemistry.
Since it sounds like your fairly serious about E-6, I'd also suggest getting some
control strips. By reading and comparing the densities at the various steps you can
isolate problems and any good lab should be willing to read them for you. They're
expensive but the time's worth it if you do a lot of one-shot processing; run a few
strips to get your process in control and your good for that batch of mixed
solution. If you can get your hands on an E-6 Process Control book or copy it's
very useful.
Sorry I can't be more help.
Tom Phillips
Malcolm Stewart wrote:
> Any simple checks I could do? e.g. pH? using litmus paper or similar.
Just an afterthought-comment, but I believe litmus paper wouild indicate PH on too
broad a scale to be of any use; you need something that can measure in 100ths along
the scale since the specific PH of E-6 color developer should be 11.89, according
to Kodak. Shouldn't vary more than +/- .01 or .02.
A PH meter might be useful if calibrated, assuming the D-Max/blue problem stems
from the color developer and you frequently have to adjust the PH. Control strips
are best and easiest, though.
BTW, Kodak has E-6 process control info online (pub. z119) at
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/Zmanuals/index.shtml
The RA-4 manual contains proceedures for PH meters.
Malcolm Stewart
Thanks for the suggestions - I've spent the day downloading and reading E6
advice pages etc. and it's looking like I've got a contamination problem.
Question is - were my chemicals contaminated before I opened them or after?
I've got plenty unopened to try out and fresh film to shoot off and use as
home-brewed control strips, so next week's going to be busy.
I did have a pH meter but it was an early one and very sensitive to how the
sensor was kept, and this one certainly wasn't treated with TLC. I certainly
wouldn't trust it for my precious holiday snaps of the French Alps.
Just hope my problems aren't due to fluoride being added to my water supply <g>.
--
M Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK
Tom Phillips <nosp...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:3DACA0B9...@aol.com...
Tom Phillips
Malcolm Stewart wrote:
> Hi Tom,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions - I've spent the day downloading and reading E6
> advice pages etc. and it's looking like I've got a contamination problem.
If you suspect this then in order to troubleshoot I suggest mixing a small amount
of *one* processing solution from the same batch of concentrate at a time,
continuing to use the other suspect solutions as mixed (i.e., new first developer,
see what happens. If the problem still exists, move onto the color developer, then
reversal bath.) It's unlikely it's anything else.
You might also first just try adding 5N sodium hydroxide to adjust the PH as
described in z119 chapter 3. I assume you've mixed this up before :)
> Just hope my problems aren't due to fluoride being added to my water supply <g>.
I doubt it, since it appears you've had previous consistent results using tap water
(assuming your water supply hasn't radically changed.) If in doubt though try
distilled. BTW, if you're prewashing your film try eliminating that step and just
develop.
Good luck :)