dry mounting RC without press
Rocco Bellantoni
course) to a piece of mounting board with a standard household iron.
Well, it mounted, but there are some issues to deal with. First of all
I noticed that the mount was not very even. The surface of the print
looks wavy in places, probably because of trapped air. On another
area, I think the emulsion is slightly cracked. In yet another area,
the emulsion seems to have melted slightly, LOL! I would like to hear
from others who have attempted this method as I am still in the
experimental phase.
any comments are welcome
thanks
rb
Gene A. Townsend
You need to use a special mounting tissue for RC prints, so be sure
you have that type. You need to adjust the heat of your iron to the
correct temperature by trial and error. If the emulsion melts, it's
too hot. If the print does not stick, it is too cold. You definetely
need to place a piece of heavy craft paper over the surface of the
print, so that the iron does not contact the emulsion surface
directly. I have found it best to start by pressing the iron down
very hard in the center of the print, then working the iron outwardly
in a circular motion from the center towards the edges. The card
stock you are mounting to needs to be sitting on very flat and hard
surface, like formica on 1inch thick particle board for example.
Regards,
Gene A. Townsend
>
>any comments are welcome
>thanks
>
>rb
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Dan Smith, Photographer
away.
Richard Knoppow
Mounting without a press can be done but requires a lot of care.
Your problems come from a couple of places; first, the iron was too
hot and, secondly, everything needs to be dryed out before mounting.
Waviness can come from trapped air but is more likely to be caused by
differential shrinkage due to varying moisture content in the paper
and mat.
I've posted a procedure recommended by Seal for use with presses a
few times to this group. Some of it can be used with a clothes iron.
First, the iron must not be too hot. Mounting tissue for RC and
color papers wants a press temperature of around 190F, older types of
tissue want 220F. Use the low temperature stuff for all paper.
Beside the mounting tissue you will need release tissue (its cheap
and can be reused until it gets wrinkled). You will also need some
photo blotter or heavy Kraft paper. Either should be "archival" stock.
A paper supply place should have the Kraft paper.
Do not use brown wrapping paper as advised in some old books.
You will also need a flat weight large enough to cover the mounted
print.
The iron should be tested for temperature by setting to the lowest
setting which will fuse the adhesive in the mounting tissue. It should
_not_ sizzle when a drop of water is put on it.
Start by drying out some sheets of the Kraft paper using the iron.
Just iron it out for a couple of minutes and put it under the flat
weight to cool. You will be using this weight a lot in this procedure.
Dry out the print by putting it between layers of the Kraft paper
and ironing it. Put the sandwich under the weight to cool.
Once cooled the print should lie flat. Take a section of dry
mounting tissue and tack it to a point at _one edge_ of the print. Do
NOT tack it to the center as suggested in old books and old Kodak
instructions. Use a scrap of release tissue to lay over the mounting
tissue to tack it.
Now place the print and tissue between layers of release tissue and
place that between a couple of layers of Kraft paper. Iron out the
print running from the tacked edge to the sides and other end of the
print making sure any air is pushed out. When finished put the whole
thing under the flat weight and let it cool.
After its cooled place the mat between layers of dryed Kraft paper
and dry it with the iron and place it under the weight.
At this point trim the print and attached mounting tissue. Because
the tissue is fused to the print it will exactly match the print and
there will be nothing showing at the edges of the finished mount.
When trimmed place it on the mat and, using a scrap of release
tissue, tack it at a point at one edge. After its tacked cover it with
release tissue and several layers of Kraft paper and iron it as above
until its fused to the mat. Then put the whole thing under the flat
weight to cool. This should result in a flat uniform mounting.
Essentially it is the same procedure as when using a press except
that it is more difficult to get things even. Work slowly since the
iron does not hear much area at a time.
The whole print does not have to be heated at once although that
makes it easier to get uniform results. In fact, prints larger than
the a press can accept can be fused in sections with some care.
Too hot an iron (or press for that matter) can result in "plumming"
or a purplish stain, in melted RC paper, in brittle fiber paper. The
heat should be the minimum which will work.
Using several layers of Kraft paper of dried photo blotter will
cussion the iron and spread out the heat. Same with a press except
that ususaly a layer of mat board is used in addition to the paper.
I don't know of a good way to measure the temperature of the iron
directly although a thermometer can be tried.
Don't use a steam iron, they almost always have some residual water
in them which will cause trouble if it spits up.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
MJR
years of regional photo club competitions. Some award winners, some not.
More than a few sold to others for home deco.
All are mounted using 3M Photo Mounting spray. To my knowledge, none have
deteriorated to date. No complaints received, in any case.
Since none of these shots are of President Lincoln in the last days of his
presidency, I suppose no one is concerned if they last beyond the new owners
lifetime.
Besides, if any of my work made money after my death, my ex-wife would
probably get it.
Hey, now that I think about that possibility, it's back to flour and water!
"Rocco Bellantoni" <rbell...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:3acc9f1e...@newshub.ccs.yorku.ca...