Advice on processing old film
Pjtg...@netscape.com
I bought an old non-functioning Rollei TLR at a swap meet recently,
and I discovered there is still a roll of half exposed film in the
camera when I got home.
There is no telling how old the film is.
I am wondering if anyone can give me some advice on how to develop
this roll. I am tempted to use regular D76 developer at standard
settings, but I am seeking advice on people who have dealt with old
films before proceeding..
Francis A. Miniter
industry standard since 1927. But you should check the film
identification and tell us further information about the film. From
some older sources that I and some others keep around, we can probably
tell you the recommended time for that film. From the film information,
we will also be in a better position to estimate how old the film is.
One problem to consider is fog. The more a film ages the greater the
likelihood of building up fog, thus lowering the net resulting contrast
of the negative. The use of a very small amount of Potassium Bromide or
Benzotriazole in the developer may help keep fog to a minimum. There is
also the problem that the film loses speed as it ages, so that with very
old film, the recommended times are not long enough. An additional
period of development may be required to yield sufficient highlight
densities.
Since you are dealing with a half exposed roll, you could use a clip
from some of the unexposed film to determine the level of fogging when
developed with recommended times and experiment with the affects of the
anti-foggants mentioned above.
Francis A. Miniter
Pjtg...@netscape.com
<min...@attglobal.net> wrote:
>D-76 is indeed the best developer to use as it has been the film
>industry standard since 1927. But you should check the film
>identification and tell us further information about the film. From
>some older sources that I and some others keep around, we can probably
>tell you the recommended time for that film. From the film information,
>we will also be in a better position to estimate how old the film is.
I opened up the camera in the dark and took a small cut of the paper,
and it was light yellow; I am reasonably sure its Kodak. As to what
kind... who knows..
>
>One problem to consider is fog. The more a film ages the greater the
>likelihood of building up fog, thus lowering the net resulting contrast
>of the negative. The use of a very small amount of Potassium Bromide or
>Benzotriazole in the developer may help keep fog to a minimum. There is
>also the problem that the film loses speed as it ages, so that with very
>old film, the recommended times are not long enough. An additional
>period of development may be required to yield sufficient highlight
>densities.
The shutter does not function, so there is no way to expose the rest
of the roll.
Can I use the unexposed portion to do the 'fog test' and determine the
right development time from there?
Richard Knoppow
As film ages it picks up fog. In addition, film which has been
exposed slowly looses the latent image. Both effects depend a lot on
the conditions the film has been subjected to. Cool, dry conditions
are best.
There are some special processes for retrieving whatever is left of
the latent image. Greg Miller, who posts here as
filmr...@sk.sympatico.ca has worked out some special formulas and
techniques, which are proprietary. For film which may have important
images on it I suggest getting in touch with him.
For curiousity's sake you can process the film in a normal
developer. D-76 is a good choice because it doesn't loose any film
speed. Probably Xtol would be good too.
Adding much anti-fog may destroy part of the latent image.
Development should be for the normal time or slightly longer. When
film bigins to become foggy extended development will bring up the fog
level faster than the image, so best overall contrast is gotten with
more or less normal development.
Latent image stability varies with the film. Most films made after
about 1950 have surprizingly good stability but its possible to
recover images from very much older film.
Unfortunately, exposure to the air isn't good. Greg Miller says that
for roll film the tighter the roll is wound the more likely it is that
usable images can be salvaged.
You can't loose anything by trying. If you post the type of film
someone here will have the developing instructions for it.
Unless the Rollei is really bashed it can be brought back to life.
If the lenses are in good condition its worth some expense to get it
overhauled.
e-mail me for recommendations.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
*.*
In additon to what the other posters have said,I would add don't use
a developer over 68 degrees F ,and fix at near the same temperature.I
had higher temps turning the gelatin to slime on some old ansco film a
couple of weeks ago.
david morris
>exposed slowly looses the latent image.
I have found that different films vary markedly on this. For example
I recently developed some vintage FP3 and HP3 films (Ilford). The
former had lost almost all the image while the latter had lost hardly
any. I used the standard times for both in ID11 and both had been
stored in the same tin for the same time (about 30 years).
David Morris
John Stockdale
> settings, but I am seeking advice on people who have dealt with old
> films before proceeding..
Please let us know how you go!
John Stockdale
Francis A. Miniter
There are two removable spools, one on the feed side and the other on the
take up side. Remove the one on the take up side [determined before opening
the camera by examination of the way the film winder wants to turn on the
outside]. Wind the film onto the take up spool. If necessary, remove the
feed spool to facilitate the job. Be sure to keep the film tight on the take
up spool. At the conclusion of this winding, you should have film properly
protected by paper. If it has an adhesive, wet it and seal the spool. If
not, put an elastic band around it to keep it from unwinding. Now, turning
the lights on, you should be able to determine the make and name of the film.
Francis A. Miniter