views on color printing
Richard Talbot
I recently visited a local camera group with the hope of finding more about
color printing but was put off as most people there said that it is too
difficult to do and scanned and computer printed photos are the way to go
So I have had a B+W darkroom at home for a few years and have recently got a
nova slot procceser to do color and have produced 2 color prints after
plenty of test strips etc.
What I'd like to no is how many others print color, I'm I wasting my time
trying to learn this ( it could take some time !!! tips needed please ) I
don't wish to develop film as is much more cost and time effective to have
film dev + print in shop,this is just for enlargments etc
cheers
Richard
Leonard Evens
I spent considerable time learning how to print color some 25 years ago.
I got reasonably good at it. More recently I switched to digital
processing, scanning my negatives, both bw and color. I still develop
my own bw film.
One can in principle produce excellent results by conventional darkroom
color printing, but it is very time consuming. It helps if you have a
fancy color meter and a dichroic color head (both of which I have).
Also, you have to develop an absolutely consistent development style. I
found that using tube processors was the best way to do that, but such
processors are expensive, particularly those that can handle large
prints. I think Jobo is the only one that makes appropriate units these
days. But you may be able to find old Beseler or Unicolor units at
ebay. I have 8 x 10 and 16 x 20 Beseler drums, and those were what I
ended up using exclusively.
The major controls you have digitally are also available in the
darkroom, but they require more time and skill to apply. Often you have
to make masks, something I never seriously tried. I did on occasion
try local color control by dodging with filters. I toyed with the idea
of setting up for dye transfer printing, which was at the time the way
to get the best results, but I never followed through on it.
I find it much easier to work digitally, but the experience I gained in
the darkroom undoubtedly reduced my learning time for that greatly.
--
Leonard Evens l...@math.northwestern.edu 847-491-5537
Dept. of Mathematics, Northwestern Univ., Evanston, IL 60208
Gregory Blank
I' ve color printed for 17 years, If you print from color negatives its rather
easy to get better results than an Ink jet can provide,...that is for me with
my extent of experience, (keep in mind I have a great deal invested in my
conventional darkroom). It on average takes less time for me to print a single
image from a negative than it would to scan , color correct an output the
final file. For example I did a job last summer where I wet printed (in
the darkroom)
about 100 8x10's from the same negative (I have a complete darkroom, Table
top Fujimoto and RC dryer)
I completed the job in 4 hours (prior to shooting a wedding that day).
Last month I weighted the cost for some promos I designed for a bridal show
verses have some xerox's made at Kinkos, and I decided to print
via my Epson 1280 since the cost was not terriblely more and quality would
be better.
Printing in B&W ink only the job took my Epson about 3 days to complete,
with almost
continous printing for 12 hours at a time,...anyway alot longer than 4
hours...same file
150 8.5 x 11
The world needs more color printers ;-) and less of the nimcompoops who
only know how
to spit out the same old stale and shoddy imagery I see comming from the
digital only side.
--
website{ members.bellatlantic.net/~gblank }
Gregory W. Blank Photography
Francis A. Miniter
Color is not difficult. I develop my own negatives and make my own
prints. A few years ago, Bill Laut posted formulas for C-41 and RA-4
homebrewed chemicals. I have re-posted them sveral times. You can find
them in the Google archives for this newgroup.
For developing negatives, homebrewing allows you to make up your
chemicals as needed and have them absolutely fresh. An accurate
thermometer is necessary to keep the process at 100 degrees F. I also
use water baths to heat and stabilize the chemicals and to hold the
developing tank.
For print development, I used to use a beseler drum and base, but have
since converted to trays set in a much larger water bath tray to
maintain temperature over 90 degrees. How much over 90 is not terribly
relevant. What is important, at least with Kodak color papers, is that
you give it a thorough cold water (60-70 degrees) bath for about a
minute before placing it in the developer. That I find is the best way
to prevent cyanic staining of the print.
Francis A. Miniter
John
It's easy. Frankly anyone can print color. Dial in the filtration, make a
test print, develop and dry and adjust if necessary. I can make a decent RA-4 in
under 10 minutes. Complete custom in 30 minutes.
Regards
John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster
Formulas, Facts and Info on the Photographic Process
http://www.darkroompro.com
Ken Hart
"Richard Talbot" <dumpth...@blue.worldonline.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3e553e85$1...@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com...
I'm not familiar with the Nova slot processor; I use a roller transport
processor.
I find color processing to be a fun challenge. I like that the prints will
look the way I want them to look, in a few minutes, not after a week at an
out-lab.
Tip #1: get a set of color viewing filters to help you see what adjusts to
make to your filter pack.
Tip #2: keep notes. When I get the color/density right, I make a note that
goes with that neg; like "11x14, 75Y 35M f11, 15sec."
Tip #3: Get the density right, then adjust the color. Avoid making color
balance judgements under flourescent lights.
--
Ken Hart
kwhart@aec,nu
JS2RT
you standardize on film, paper, chemistry, and exposure methods your color
printing will be easier than black and white. The color balance of todays films
and papers are extremely consistant from batch to batch. Once I find a good
filter pack for a given film and paper I have found out that it won't change
from roll to roll and box to box. At that point your printing exposure (print
density) becomes the only variable. Your contact sheet will tell you about the
changes from the average negative and you can usually eyeball changes of up to
a stop either way from the average.
Follow the above suggestion to log your exposures for your good prints. After
you have 30-50 prints logged calculate the following formula for each print.
f/number times distance from lens to baseboard divided by the square root of
the exposure time. For instance, if I make a print where the lens is 20" above
the base board, and expose it at f/8 for 16 seconds the number is 40. Average
these numbers. Now you can use a calculator or spreadsheet to come up with a
good starting exposure or calculate the new exposure when changing
magnification.
Enjoy your printing.
Jim Stewart
Richard Talbot
I now feel more encouraged to try more color work
cheers
Richard
"Richard Talbot" <dumpth...@blue.worldonline.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3e553e85$1...@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com...
Bert Miller
Hi, Richard,
Photographic color printing can be as difficult as stupidity,
ignorance and stubborness can make it. On the other hand, it can be
so simple as to make one's self ask, "How come I never heard of this
system?" If you want to learn the truth don't ask me. Ask someone
else who is a user. Try e-mailing Don at don...@prodigy.net.mx.
Bert Miller
the MILLER METHOD III (C)
sensitometry-based, computer-controlled color printing
Jtown2354
will find color printing a bit more demanding of temperature control, and of
course, you will have the color filters or color head on your enlarger for
control of the color.
In my case, one of the most important items is a color exposure analyzer which
when properly calibrated eliminates the test strips and will result in a good
(no objectanable color cast) print on perhaps 95% of the first prints.
I use a color head, a Beseler PM3L exposure analyzer, and Beseler processing
tubes. Works well.
Now for books et.al. - I don't have any references for general color printing -
but check into the library of "Photo Techniques" magazine. Their web address
is www.phototechmag.com and check out their library. ---- Jerry/Idaho