(Giving credit where due, it was someone here who advised me to use the
presoak!)
Don't be freaked when you pour the water out and it has a color to it! With
Kodak Portra film, it's a deep green. Don't know about other films-- that's
all I process.
--
Ken Hart
kwh...@aec.nu
By the way... Tetenal is JOBO. If there were a JOBO kit it would be
exactly the same as Tetenal with a different name on the boxes.
If you are doing the processing in tanks or drums, be sure not to put
the final rinse chemistry into the drum, but drop the developed film
into some other container used only for the final rinse. Apparently
some of the chemicals in the final rinse brew can poison the plastic in
the drum. This was more true of the fold formaldihyde rinses, but it's
still worth being careful about.
> By the way... Tetenal is JOBO.
Not all of it. Most of the chemicals sold by Jobo come from Fuji-Hunt.
Ralf
--
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - Köln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses
>I recommend using the full suite of C-41 chemicals and not the quick
>ones like Tetenal. You have more control and the final dunk in the
>nasty stuff seems to do a better job of preserving the neg.
Are you thinking of E-6? The only real difference between the liquid
Rapid Kit and the Press Kit is that the PK has the chemicals in powder
form for easy transport. Both include stabilizer.
As far as the Kodak four-bath C-41 (as opposed to the three-bath
method that the rest use), there's no "extra control" there, since the
difference is a separate bleach and fix stage instead of a single
blix, and those reactions are taken to completion.
--
Strange, Geometrical Hinges: http://rob.rnovak.net