Terry-
I've had great results tray processing RA4. It's quicker and
you don't need to buy drums and a motor base.
Eddie
Terry,
I would imagine that the least expensive "processer" for color work would
be using a Beseler Tube/motor base. There is a 11x14 drum which will allow you
to develop 1 - 11x14 print at one time. Also this drum will allow you to
develop 2 - 8x10s at one time. In regards as to chemicals to use, I recommend
(from past experience 8-10 yrs ago) would be for Beseler's chemicals which
allow for some deviance in temperature. These, if a controlled temperature,
will provide as good of a print as anyother. When I am doing B&W printing
using the 8x10 tube I can produce one print in about 6-7 minutes with the above
system. I use Dektol and Edwal's Ultra Black as chemicals. I use only 3 oz.
of developer/stop bath / fixer hypo clearing agent and then I use a water bath.
For doing the printing as such I use a replenishment of 0.5 oz.of each
chemical except for the fixer and I use 1 oz of it for 2-1/2 minutes.
The way I have been keeping my chemicals is by (used when developing color
prints also in the past):
1. I use 3 oz dark bottles (from a drug store) to hold the chemicals in a 84
degree holding bath.
2. After putting paper in developing tube, pour chemical(1) into tube and
start timer for x time (2). When time is up I will drain chemical into a
container. Put 0.5 oz of fresh chemical (1) into the brown 3 oz bottle. Now
pour enough of the chemical(1) into the bown bottle to bring it back up to 3
oz. mark.
3. In between the time of doing the above, I use a short rinse (30 sec) of
water into the developing tube to get at least some of the chemical(1) out of
tube and will allow the next chemical(1) to work without contamination of each
photo chemical keeping chemicals relativley fresh.
4. Keep repeating steps 2 & 3 until finished up with washing the print after
the hypo.
5. Now to the part about keeping chemicals till the next printing session. I
use marbles to bring the fluid levels up to the bottle's neck (for all of the
bottles). On each bottle I use a small rubber band, wrapped around the base of
the threads, which allows a very good seal after putting the cap back on the
bottle. For the stock solution bottles I use the rubber band method also with
this exception. I use plastic bottles that are ............ and I squeeze it
until the chemical (1) is up to the top and I then close it off.
(1) developer/stopbath/fixer/hypo
Terry Smith <tas...@flash.net> wrote in article
<34D06E...@flash.net>...
> I have decided to start doing my own color printing. I do high-end
> custom portraits and have not been satisfied with the printing I've been
> getting. It's fine, but to get the results I want, I need to print them
> myself. I am somewhat experienced in color printing,(several years ago),
> but at the time I had access to a color processor; no longer. I have
> also done fine-art B&W for years, so I am no stranger to the darkroom.
> My question is what's available out there? I will only need to be
> printing 10-12 8x10s and a few 11x14s a week for the time being. If I
> just use tubes for processing, is there a system where the unused
> chemicals won't go bad on me in a few days? Is there an inexpensive