color paper choice
Jeremy H.
color printing, and the only paper I have tried so far is Kodak Supra Endura
F surface. I'm not crazy about the colors I'm getting from the paper. I'd
like something a little brighter and more saturated. I've been considering
ordering a box of Fuji chrystal archive. What does everyone think? Thanks
Jeremy
Jim Phelps
"Jeremy H." <jha...@citlink.net> wrote in message
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Jeremy,
I use Supra (not the Endura version) and am very satisfied with the
saturation and colors. I use Tetenal chemistry (the 'Pro' version). I did
notice a large jump in color clarity and purity when I went from the non-pro
version (Mono-PK) to the pro version. You may also be experiencing a
problem with color crossover or could it be the negatives are a bit flat?
What film are you trying to print? Some print better than others on Kodak
paper. I do use Portra 160VC and get good colors with a bit too much
(admittedly) contrast. To bad there's no such thing as RA-4 Variable
Contrast Color papers...
Jim
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Christopher Bush
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Try Ultra. It gives a bit more pop than Supra. If that's not enough, go to
polyester-based, like Fujiflex (very expensive). What films are you using??
--
Christopher Bush
http://www.christopherbush.com
Christopher Bush
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I forgot to add, I used to use the RC Crystal Archive paper, and preferred
the Ultra for saturation and pop. There are others who will disagree,
though.....
Jeremy H.
consistent, so I don't THINK that my processing is the problem (although
that doesn't mean I'm not to blame in some other way) and I know the
negatives are good. I've been following the Tet. kit directions exactly, but
could this be a problem with over/under development of the print? The colors
just seem a little dull and unspectacular (especially green). I've tried a
mixture of films from both Kodak and Fuji. Thanks again for your help.
Jeremy
Manny Bhuta
vibrant colors I like Fujiflex paper.
--
Manny Bhuta
Randolph, NJ USA
"Jeremy H." <jha...@citlink.net> wrote in message
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Jim Phelps
I had an issue with muddy colors when I had contaminated the Developer
with Blix. It only takes one drop, but it sure hurts to throw away
chemistry. Last night, I threw away 1/2 liter of C-41 chemistry because I
thought I may have gotten one or two drops of Blix in the Dev. Better not
take chances.
I recall the Tetenal chemistry takes all processes to completion.
Meaning, you can't over develop or Blix. Certainly you can underdevelop.
Color cross over would give you false colors, but only in one or two colors
or shades of that color.
Is this the first batch of chemistry and paper? I'm making a safe
assumption that you have been successfully doing color before you changed
over to this paper. So I wouldn't doubt your procedures.
The Supra papers have a good color reputation. I can't think of any
other possibility.
Jim
"Jeremy H." <jha...@citlink.net> wrote in message
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Jeremy H.
batches of 1 litre each so far. Same results each time. I recently had to
throw away a sizeable amount of e-6 chemistry because of developer
contamination. Since then I use dedicated graduates and chemical bottles for
each solution and use all chemicals "one shot", so contamination could only
occur in the paper drum - but I'm pretty careful about that. Colors seem
accurate, they just don't have any "pop".
I have been processing and doing darkroom work for quite some time but this
is my first crack at color printing, so don't hesitate to doubt my
procedure! I have tried extending my developer time, but no improvement. I
think that I am goint to order a different paper and give that a shot. If I
get the same results, I will have to look closer at my own steps. Thanks for
all your help.
Jeremy
"Jim Phelps" <Jim.P...@MI.com> wrote in message
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Jim Phelps
> The chemicals are from a 5 litre kit, and I have mixed three individual
> batches of 1 litre each so far. Same results each time. I recently had to
> throw away a sizeable amount of e-6 chemistry because of developer
> contamination. Since then I use dedicated graduates and chemical bottles
for
> each solution and use all chemicals "one shot", so contamination could
only
> occur in the paper drum - but I'm pretty careful about that. Colors seem
> accurate, they just don't have any "pop".
>
> I have been processing and doing darkroom work for quite some time but
this
> is my first crack at color printing, so don't hesitate to doubt my
> procedure! I have tried extending my developer time, but no improvement. I
> think that I am goint to order a different paper and give that a shot. If
I
> get the same results, I will have to look closer at my own steps. Thanks
for
> all your help.
>
> Jeremy
>
>
One more thing, the RA-4 chemicals in the Jobo drum are good four about
4 8X10's before you discard them. I normally run 2 8X10's at a time. Of
course make sure you wash the print's on the machine (you are doing this
aren't you?) If you have a lift and don't run several rinses through the
lift mechanism you will contaminate your developer every time! Washing the
paper (I use four changes of water every 45 seconds) will rinse the lift
mechanism for you.
Try the Kodak Supra III paper, and not the Endura. Please post your
results. I still have a couple of boxes of the non-Endura and if a lot of
people say it isn't any good, I'll try and stay away. I'm sure I'm not the
only one that feels that way.
Good luck,
Herbert Kanner
"Jim Phelps" <Jim.P...@MI.com> wrote:
> "Jeremy H." <jha...@citlink.net> wrote in message
> news:iqika.2220$F%7.1...@news01.roc.ny.frontiernet.net...
> > The chemicals are from a 5 litre kit, and I have mixed three individual
> > batches of 1 litre each so far. Same results each time. I recently had to
> > throw away a sizeable amount of e-6 chemistry because of developer
> > contamination. Since then I use dedicated graduates and chemical bottles
> for
> > each solution and use all chemicals "one shot", so contamination could
> only
> > occur in the paper drum - but I'm pretty careful about that. Colors seem
> > accurate, they just don't have any "pop".
> >
> > I have been processing and doing darkroom work for quite some time but
> this
> > is my first crack at color printing, so don't hesitate to doubt my
> > procedure! I have tried extending my developer time, but no improvement. I
> > think that I am goint to order a different paper and give that a shot. If
> I
> > get the same results, I will have to look closer at my own steps. Thanks
> for
> > all your help.
> >
> > Jeremy
I don't know if this comment is relevant, because it is from information
that is quite a few years old.
I saw reviews of various color processing kits and remember that the
Tetenal room-temperature kit received a glowing review and the reviewer
rated the other Tetenal kit, the one requiring higher temperature, as
producing dull colors.
Herb
P.S. I've been using the Tetenal room-temperature kits for years,
starting with when Beseler was importing them. I have always thought
the color was satisfactory. I switched from Kodak paper to Fuji Cryster
Archive for what seems like a trivial reason: the paper is a tight fit
to the Kodak box, maing it hard to replace the package into the box in
total darkness. The Fuji box is comfortably over-size.
> >
> > Jeremy,
>
> One more thing, the RA-4 chemicals in the Jobo drum are good four about
> 4 8X10's before you discard them. I normally run 2 8X10's at a time. Of
> course make sure you wash the print's on the machine (you are doing this
> aren't you?) If you have a lift and don't run several rinses through the
> lift mechanism you will contaminate your developer every time! Washing the
> paper (I use four changes of water every 45 seconds) will rinse the lift
> mechanism for you.
>
> Try the Kodak Supra III paper, and not the Endura. Please post your
> results. I still have a couple of boxes of the non-Endura and if a lot of
> people say it isn't any good, I'll try and stay away. I'm sure I'm not the
> only one that feels that way.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Jim
>
>
>
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Ken Hart
"Jim Phelps" <Jim.P...@MI.com> wrote in message
snip
>
> Try the Kodak Supra III paper, and not the Endura. Please post your
> results. I still have a couple of boxes of the non-Endura and if a lot of
> people say it isn't any good, I'll try and stay away. I'm sure I'm not
the
> only one that feels that way.
>
I could be mistaken, but it's my understanding that the pro papers (Supra,
and Portra) will be changing to the Endura version.
According to the insturctions packaged with the Endura: "Initial conversion
to these papers involves the rebalance of your printers. Since the green
speed is about 1/2 stops faster than the Portra II and the Supra II Papers,
increase your magenta filtration by approximtely 15CC. Also update the
balance and slope settings of your printers by running your normal and slope
printer control negatives. This will optimize the print quality due to the
improved reciprocity of these papers."
I've switched over to the Endura on my minilab printer, and the only
difference I've seen is the increase in magenta exposure.
--
Ken Hart
kwhart@aec,nu
Jeremy H.
that because I am not using a stop bath. From everything that I have read
about the stop bath, omitting it only causes problems if you are going to
reuse the chemistry. Has this been everyone elses experience? I have only
omitted for convenience. I am 3 hours from the nearest town big enough to
have a Wal Mart, and there is not a decent camera store there. Therefore, my
only option is mail order and when I ordered the Tet. kit I did not realize
there was no stop bath included. Can't justify ordering it until I need
enough other things to make shipping cost worth while. Maybe I should bite
the bullet. I need to make an order anyway.
I giving the prints an initial 3 minute wash in the drum, changing water
every 30 sec. followed by a thorough hot water rinse of the drum and lid. I
do not have a lift, so none of that should be a problem.
I've pretty much decided that I'm going to order some stop bath and a pack
of Fuji and see what happens with that. If the results are still
unimpressive, at least I'll know for sure who to blame! Thanks again for all
the advice.
Jeremy
"Jim Phelps" <Jim.P...@MI.com> wrote in message
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