Color printing tips please!
Marcelo Dapino
Hi there,
I'm going to be doing color printing in the near future (have done
only B&W so far), and want to know more about processing gear,
techniques, and such. Note that I've only used tray processing so
far, so I'm not quite too familiar with processing drums, ets.
-Do I really need a motorized base?
-What are my options of chemicals?
-Is it easier to go the negative route (c 41) or the slide route
(E-6)? In any case I want to be able to actually print my work.
-Do I need a color analyzer?
Money is a concern, so please suggest me the inexpensive ways...
Thanks a lot,
Marcelo
Joerg Schweden
Marcelo Dapino wrote:
>
> Hi there,
>
> I'm going to be doing color printing in the near future (have done
> only B&W so far), and want to know more about processing gear,
> techniques, and such. Note that I've only used tray processing so
> far, so I'm not quite too familiar with processing drums, ets.
>
> -Do I really need a motorized base?
There are some processes by TETENAL that you can use without a motor.
> -What are my options of chemicals?
> -Is it easier to go the negative route (c 41) or the slide route
> (E-6)? In any case I want to be able to actually print my work.
> -Do I need a color analyzer?
For negatives I would say yes, unless you must try and try and try. It
is quite easy to bring a slide onto paper, cause you can see the right
colors, they are not negative!
>
> Money is a concern, so please suggest me the inexpensive ways...
>
Well as you do not need a color analyzer for slides, it's cheaper. And
as an additional advantage you have both, the slides and the paper!
Joerg
MSchaf7081
>> -Do I really need a motorized base?
>>
>>What are my options of chemicals?
>> Is it easier to go the negative route (c 41) or the slide route
>>(E-6)? In any case I want to be able to actually print my work.
>>Do I need a color analyzer?
>>Money is a concern, so please suggest me the inexpensive ways...
If you want to do good consistent color and make your life much easier in
the
process than you will need a motorized base.
Since you want to be able to print your work than the highest quality can
only
be obtained with print film. You will be working with RA4 chemistry for
this. I like both the Kodak and Tetanol brands.
No you do not need a color analyzer. These things are vastly over rated.
Unless
you are doing studio work and have a constant reference value than they
are
not the one shot panecea.
For the first six months I would recommend you use the same film and paper
combination. This will keep your color corrections fairly close togather
on
average. A beginner can drive themselves nuts shooting different films and
papers.
I have a free brochure on color printing tips and techniques for beginners
that I will E_Mail to you in a week when I get back from my trip from New
York as I am on the road and do not have the file with me.
Norton
Marcelo Dapino <marc...@iastate.edu> wrote:
>Hi there,
>I'm going to be doing color printing in the near future (have done
>only B&W so far), and want to know more about processing gear,
>techniques, and such. Note that I've only used tray processing so
>far, so I'm not quite too familiar with processing drums, ets.
>-Do I really need a motorized base?
Prints can be tray developed even. IT's only a minute and a half in
the dark. As for drums, they're a tad easier for newbies, and a
motorized base would be nice. Continuous agitation is required.
>-What are my options of chemicals?
RA4 chemistry.for printing negs.
>-Is it easier to go the negative route (c 41) or the slide route
That depends what you are shooting. I prefer negatives. I can always
made a slide from a neg. Then again, you can make a negative from a
slide.
>(E-6)? In any case I want to be able to actually print my work.
>-Do I need a color analyzer?
No, I work in a custom pro lab, and do everything manually. I simply
keep records of all my printing, and film types. I find after awhile,
you can be really close the first test strip, finetune the second, and
print the third.
>Money is a concern, so please suggest me the inexpensive ways...
Get a good steady enlarger with a good lens, for the size of your
negs.
Hpargotohp
In article <32440E...@rog.rwth-aachen.de>, Joerg Schweden
<schw...@rog.rwth-aachen.de> writes:
>>
>Well as you do not need a color analyzer for slides, it's cheaper. And
>as an additional advantage you have both, the slides and the paper!
>
>Joerg
>
>
A color analyzer is not a NEED in my limited experience for printing from
negs, but a luxury. I simply determined my enlargers standard balance
for my favorite films (usually Fuji Super HG 100) and use that as a
staring point for test prints, in the same way I would print B&W on VC
paper. Paper and chemistry are much cheaper for RA4 than Ilfochrome, and
slides cost more to process than negs, plus slide FILM cost more.
Prinitng from negs is much cheaper (and I believe easier for a beginner --
me included) than printing from slides.
Andy
Mark Huth
Believe me, printing from negs is easier for everybody except a masochist,
regardless of experience level. If you want prints, use print film.
Especially when starting out. You are bound to fumble around looking for
color-correction settings, so figure maybe 5 prints to get a decent print
from the first neg of a type of film and batch of paper. When you get to
only two for great prints, then you're good. You probably can't do great
prints from the first shot without considerable experience and some
calibrated measurement equipment. I have found that test strips don't work
well for me, so I just shoot the first one at 8x10 and get on with it. I
mean, it's only about $0.60 a shot, maybe less if you do a lot and buy the
10 liter kits. Generally, the color filters needed apply more to the film
type and paper combination than anything else, so once set for a film type,
you will be real close. Get the exposure correct before fine tuning the
color.. Have fun!
--
Mark Huth
PhotoControls (602) 582-8585 email: m...@primenet.com
5142 W. Creedance Blvd. Providing digital image processing and
Glendale, AZ 85310 printing as well as custom darkroom
services
Tom Raymondson
My advice, from about 20 years of color . . .
1. When you finally get a motorized base, you'll wish you had one
sooner.
2. Keep records of your exposure for every print - even the ones that
look horrible and you give up on. The first thing I do before printing
is to study my printing log.
Marcelo Dapino
1. Any specific brand/model that you can recommend? I am probably
going to be buying one pretty soon, from B&H in NYC.
2. Interesting...I've been reading a few books about color
processing/printing; all different authors seem to agree on that.
Ron Walton
One of the best things I did to help color printing was get a
voltage stabilizer.
Ron Walton
MSchaf7081 <mscha...@aol.com> wrote in article
<5227fg$2...@newsbf02.news.aol.com>...
:
:
:
: >> -Do I really need a motorized base?
: >>
: >>What are my options of chemicals?
: >> Is it easier to go the negative route (c 41) or the slide route
: >>(E-6)? In any case I want to be able to actually print my work.
: >>Do I need a color analyzer?
:
: >>Money is a concern, so please suggest me the inexpensive ways...
:
: If you want to do good consistent color and make your life much
easier in
: the
: process than you will need a motorized base.
:
: Since you want to be able to print your work than the highest
quality can
: only
: be obtained with print film. You will be working with RA4 chemistry
for
: this. I like both the Kodak and Tetanol brands.
:
: No you do not need a color analyzer. These things are vastly over
:
:
:
:
:
Tom Raymondson
Marcelo Dapino wrote:
>
> 1. Any specific brand/model that you can recommend? I am probably
> going to be buying one pretty soon, from B&H in NYC.
Mine is a Beseler. Works fine. I don't have any experience with
others.
Brian Park
Here's my dime's worth:
For a person who's printed color negs for only a few months I will say
that bangin' out a color print is not hard. However, what I do find
frustrating is
not having any sort of reference point to judge a print, other than your
own experience with printing color. Oh, it does help having someting
white in your image. What I'm getting at is fine tuning subtle color
variations one can achieve by changing just a few cc's of color (+/- 5 for
argument's sake). I find that printing color is very much an
interpretation of your own as it is with Black and White. With slides you
already have the "correct" color balance of the photo for you to judge on
the film - that is if you're assuming that the film itself has recorded
the image as faithfully as possible.
Brian Park
Michiel Fierst van Wijnandsbergen
Marcelo Dapino <marc...@iastate.edu> wrote:
>I'm going to be doing color printing in the near future (have done
>only B&W so far), and want to know more about processing gear,
>techniques, and such. Note that I've only used tray processing so
>far, so I'm not quite too familiar with processing drums, ets.
OK. DO NOT USE DRUMS.
Drums are aweful things once you have discovered the Nova processor.
The Nova processor consists of two of more baths that are vertical
woth heated water in between. Wonderful things.
You can get them in all sorts of size and with varying numbers of
chemical compartments.
THE most important issue when you start color enlarging, is to have a
stable chemical process. If you cannot reproduce equal prints from
several processing runs, you are in trouble. Therefore, good timing
and stable temperatures are essential. And the Nova processing system
is really great in achieving this.
>-Do I really need a motorized base?
For using drums, you need a water bath (Jobo etc.) to keep temperature
correct to within a half degree (RA-4 chemicals).
>-What are my options of chemicals?
>-Is it easier to go the negative route (c 41) or the slide route
>(E-6)? In any case I want to be able to actually print my work.
>-Do I need a color analyzer?
Not really if you plan your work right. Usually you can print a whole
roll with the same filtering. Make contacts before you start. This
will be a tremendous help.
>Money is a concern, so please suggest me the inexpensive ways...
The Nova processor is not more expensive than drums and the rest.
"Nova darkroom equipment" is based in the UK.
This is what I found on the net about them:
Nova Darkroom Equipment
Unit 1A, Harris Road
Wedgnock Industrial Estate
Warwick, CV34 5JU, England
Fax: 011- 44 - 1926 - 49 - 99 - 92
Distributed in USA by Jobo Fototechnic
Box 3721, Ann Arbor, MI 48106
Phone 313 - 995 - 4192
Fax 313 - 995 - 8886.
Have a look at: http://www.heylloyd.com/nova.htm
for a review. But remeber, they come in many different sizes. You
probably need a small version with two slots.
Good luck.
Michiel
MSchaf7081
The point of securing an accurate repeatable processing process is good
advice!
I would also suggest using the same film and paper combinationfor a few
months
until you get the hang of color balancing. In this way your color balance
for
most prints will GENERALLY be close. After you get the hang of color
balancing
you can start switching film and paper types.
Just my thoughts !
John Holt
In message <19970206011...@ladder01.news.aol.com> -
mscha...@aol.com (MSchaf7081) writes:
:>
:>The point of securing an accurate repeatable processing process is good
:>advice!
I have found that keeping a control chart really helps me keep my
processing
repeatable. By maintaining a plot of my temp error, I know if I am
drifting
up or down and can apply corrections to keep the temp within an
acceptable
range.
:>
:>I would also suggest using the same film and paper combinationfor a few
:>months
:>until you get the hang of color balancing. In this way your color balance
:>for
:>most prints will GENERALLY be close. After you get the hang of color
:>balancing
:>you can start switching film and paper types.
I also did my own "ring around" for each paper/chemistry combination.
Of
course this kind of limits the number of combinations I use. It also
has
the negative effect of making me unwilling to try just any new paper
or chemistry. But the positive side is that I know the effect of a
filtration change with my paper, processing tecnique, and chemistry.
:>
:>Just my thoughts !
:>
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// John Holt //
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