Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part1
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs
Last-modified: 26 November 2011
Version: 3.152
HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 1 of 7) -- ABOUT THE HEDGEHOG FAQ
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara (macnam...@hedgehoghollow.com)
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.
This document is copyright 2011 by Brian MacNamara. See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.
The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one. A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given below.
Please note: While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care. I did not write, or verify, all the information in this FAQ. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way. For advice from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with hedgehogs.
------------------------------
Subject: CONTENTS OF THE HEDGEHOG FAQ FILES
Part I: ABOUT THE HEDGEHOG FAQ (this file)
0. *** About this FAQ ***
<0.1> Notes on formatting
<0.2> Where to get the Hedgehog FAQ
<0.3> Goal of this FAQ
<0.4> Credits and editor's notes
<0.5> Information I would like to track down and add -- please help!
<0.6> Copyright and redistribution information
1. *** Revision history of this file ***
Part II: FINDING MORE INFORMATION
2. *** Where to get more information ***
<2.1> What books are there on pet hedgehogs?
<2.2> Is there any other information available on-line?
<2.3> International Hedgehog Registry
<2.4> Hedgehogs Welfare Society
<2.5> International Hedgehog Association
<2.6> Canadian Hedgehog Association
<2.7> Other hedgehog organizations
<2.8> Miscellaneous hedgehog stuff and sources
Part III: INTRO TO HEDGEHOGS AS PETS
3. *** Introduction to pet hedgehogs ***
<3.1> What are hedgehogs? Should I get one? What's good and bad
about them as pets?
<3.2> Where are pet hedgehogs illegal?
<3.3> Are hedgehogs wild animals?
<3.4> What's the average hedgehog lifespan?
<3.5> I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to hedgehogs?
<3.6> Do hedgehogs smell?
<3.7> Do hedgehogs have tails?
<3.8> Hedgehog monikers -- what do I call a hedgehog?
<3.9> Her-hog or Him-hog? What sex is Prickles?
4. *** Getting a pet hedgehog ***
<4.1> Which types/colours are there? Male or female? What age?
<4.2> How many should I get? <4.3> What to look for in a hedgehog / How to choose a hedgehog
<4.4> How can I find a hedgehog breeder/contact in my area?
<4.5> When Hedgie comes home
<4.6> Hedgehog handling / socializing
<4.7> How can I introduce my hedgehog to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/
rabbit/etc.) with the least trouble?
Part IV: HEDGEHOGS AS PETS
5. *** Things you'll need ***
<5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?
<5.2> Do I need a cage? How should I set it up?
<5.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding. Should I?
<5.4> Litter boxes and what kind of litter should I use?
<5.5> I'm having problems litter-training my hedgehog. What should I be doing?
<5.6> Hedgehogs and wheels
<5.7> Making your own wheel
<5.8> Any suggestions on toys?
6. *** Basic hedgehog care and training ***
<6.1> How can I best hedgehogproof my home?
<6.2> What should I feed my hedgehog?
<6.3> Commercial hedgehog foods and nutrition
<6.4> What are good treats?
<6.5> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails?
<6.6> Biting and nipping
<6.7> HELP, my hedgehog is LOST! (or Hedgehog Hide-and-Seek)
Part V: HEDGEHOG CARE AND UNDERSTANDING
7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do ***
<7.1> Self-anointing. What is it? Why do hedgehogs do it?
<7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot. Is that normal?
<7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?
<7.4> My hedgehog sneezes. What should I do?
<7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic? Is this normal?
<7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire
8. *** Basic health care ***
<8.1> What health risks should I worry about?
<8.2> Mites (or mites, not?)
<8.3> Tattered or ragged ears
<8.4> Hedgehog first-aid kit
<8.5> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?
<8.6> Vaccinations, etc.
9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***
<9.1> Various hedgehog health issues
<9.2> My hedgehog's had funny-looking stools for a couple of days.
What's wrong?
<9.3> My hedgehog's not eating. What should I do?
<9.4> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of
them?
<9.5> Wobbly hedgehogs
Part VI: ADVANCED TOPICS IN HEDGEHOGGERY
10. *** Breeding, babies, and advanced issues ***
<10.1> Breeding
<10.2> General care for babies
<10.3> Hand feeding baby hedgehogs
<10.4> Colours, types, and species
Part VII: WILD HEDGEHOGS
11. *** Finding Information ***
<11.1> Intro to wild hedgehogs
<11.2> What hedgehog books are there?
<11.3> Is there information available on-line?
<11.4> Wild Hedgehog Organizations
<11.5> Miscellaneous Hedgehog stuff and sources
12. *** Care and Helping ***
<12.1> The hedgehog calendar
<12.2> Caring for visiting hedgehogs
<12.3> Feeding and caring for orphan baby hedgehogs
<12.4> Hedgehog housing
<12.5> Hedgehogizing your garden
<12.6> Wild hedgehog health
<12.7> Dangers to wild hedgehogs
<12.8> Watching out for hibernating hedgehogs
The answers in these files are given in a ``digest format,'' which should
make it easier for you to scan through them for the information you want.
Each question begins with a line of hyphens, followed by its number and
the question itself, as given in the Table of Contents above. In many
newsreaders, including rn, trn, and strn, you can jump from one
question to the next by hitting CONTROL-G. You can also look for a
particular answer by searching for its number or for words from the
question.
There are also some formatting aspects which may appear odd at first,
such as indents and combinations of tabs and spaces. These are used to
automatically convert the FAQ into HTML format, using a utility program I
created for this. Unfortunately, it's not very adaptable to other FAQs as it
was written in some haste, but it does do a reasonable job on the Hedgehog
FAQ.
Cross-references to other questions are in square brackets; for
example, [2.2] means that more information may be found in section
2.2.
Anti-SPAM measures. Unfortuantely, email addresses within the FAQ appear to
be favorite targets for SPAMmers. As a result, I've added "REMOVE_TO_SEND"
to each email address in the text based (posted) FAQ.
For example, if an email address is hedgehog at burrow.com, it would show
as being hedgehogREMOVE_TO_SEND at burrow.com.
Also, I've changed the web based version to display correctly (visually), but uses another anti-SPAM machanism to prevent the addresses from being searched.
------------------------------
Subject: <0.2> Where to get the Hedgehog FAQ
This FAQ is posted once a month (usually on or around the 20th) to the
rec.pets, rec.answers, and news.answers newsgroups. It is also available by
anonymous FTP from the main news.answers repository:
Please note that the address, above, is new (Oct, 1999), and Dr. Tetsuro Oka informs me that he is working on an updated translation of the FAQ.
If you cannot ftp and have no WWW access, send me email (macnam...@hedgehoghollow.com) and I'll be glad to email you a copy.
------------------------------
Subject: <0.3> Goal of this FAQ
This FAQ is intended to cover many of the basic questions about hedgehogs.
It's somewhat unusual in that it deals both with pet (African Pigmy)
hedgehogs, and with wild hedgehogs (primarily European, but also African).
Most of the FAQ is aimed primarily at pet hedgehogs, largely because that is
the information I have to draw on. I hope to continue to extend the coverage
of the FAQ to address both groups reasonably, and since there is considerable
crossover in how the information applies, much of what is said about one
group is applicable to the other, with a little common sense used in the
interpretation.
The number of books and other sources for information is finally expanding to
a
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part2
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs
Last-modified: 26 November 2011
Version: 3.152
HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 2 of 7) -- FINDING MORE INFORMATION
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara (macnam...@hedgehoghollow.com)
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.
This document is copyright 2011 by Brian MacNamara. See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.
The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one. A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given in part I.
Please note: While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care. I did not write, or verify, all the information in this FAQ. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way. For advice from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with hedgehogs.
------------------------------
Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE
2. *** Where to get more information ***
<2.1> What books are there on pet hedgehogs?
<2.2> Is there any other information available on-line?
<2.3> International Hedgehog Registry
<2.4> Hedgehogs Welfare Society
<2.5> International Hedgehog Association
<2.6> Canadian Hedgehog Association
<2.7> Other hedgehog organizations
<2.8> Miscellaneous hedgehog stuff and sources
Subject: <2.1> What books are there on pet hedgehogs?
For a long time there was only a single tome available on our prickly little
friends, which was often referred to as ``The Hedgehog Book.'' With the
increasing popularity of hedgehogs, a number of books are now available.
There still seems to be little information on hedgehogs in print, especially
compared to most other animals, but this, fortunately, appears to be rapidly
changing. Also, many, but not all, of the books that are commonly available
contain outdated information.
As of spring 1997 there are two new complementary books now out that have
virtually made all the previous offerings obsolete.
The first of these additions, is _The Hedgehog: An Owner's Guide to a Happy,
Healthy Pet_ by Dawn Wrobel and Dr. Susan Brown, DVM. It is published by the
Howell Book House, and is available in pet stores that carry their Happy,
Healthy Pet series. It is also available through the Spike and Friends
Catalog [2.8]. For those of you who want to order it, the ISBN number is
0-87605-501-3, and it is listed as having a price of $12.95 USD, or $17.95
CDN.
Having had the luxury of seeing some of the preliminary text (thanks Dawn!),
I had high expectations for the book, and when I got to see it, I was quite
amazed at how far it exceeded my imagination. Simply put, this is a great
book, and one that no hedgehog owner should be without. It is full of great
tips, ideas and great knowledge, accompanied by some fantastic pictures. The
medical chapter by Dr. Susan Brown is more than worth the price in itself,
not that the rest of the book wouldn't be a bargain even without it.
Dawn's book is targeted at the pet owner, rather than the breeder, as has
been the case all too often in the past, and in this respect it succeeds
brilliantly.
The other great tome that was published about the same time as the one above,
is _The Pygmy Hedgehog a Perfect Pet_ by Sharon Massena with Bryan Smith.
Having now had the chance to see this book, I can attest that it is more than
worthwhile as well. The best part about it, is that rather than being
another great hedgehog book, it is complementary to books like Dawn Wrobel's,
by addressing many different areas. Here is the information I have on it:
The ISBN # is 0-9655629-1-3
The list price is $16.00 US and $19.00 CDN + post.
80 pages, soft cover, gloss pages with b/w and full colour photos. Contains limited standard info and full colour pics many of the standardized colours. Also has club and show information.
-- Bryan Smith
I should probably add a disclaimer here -- I have had numerous conversations
with Dawn and Bryan, and a bias in favour of either book could easily be
assigned to this. In the case of Dawn's book, I read the advance text she
sent with the intent to essentially critique it -- expecting it to already be
dated in many ways (as most books have been by the time they get to print) or
just a rehash of what has gone before, and I came away honestly impressed.
Having now seen Sharon's and Bryan's book, the same feelings apply. I'm sure
that I could nit-pick in minor places, but at most that's what it would be,
nit-picking about things that don't matter. We finally have very good,
up-to-date books that can go a very long ways towards giving people the
information they need about keeping hedgehogs as pets, and providing them
happy healthy lives.
Going back a bit now, the book, often called ``The Hedgehog Book,'' is
actually titled _Everything You Wanted to Know About Hedgehogs But you didn't
know who to ask_ by Pat Storer. This was one of the first books available on
pet hedgehogs.
Pat Storer has two books available on hedgehogs, and while there is
considerable crossover between the two, her newer book _Hedgehogs As Pets_
(my thanks to John Ofner for my copy) is targeted more at pet owners, while
the original ``Everything...'' is more oriented towards breeders. These
books are, for all intents and purposes, the original formal tomes on pet
hedgehogs, and having one or the other was virtually a must for any hedgehog
keeper (keepee?). While they don't cover absolutely everything, and they are
becoming a bit dated, now, they do provide a lot of very good information.
Both books cover areas of the other to some extent, so a pet owner looking
for basics on breeding will find it in _Hedgehogs As Pets_, while a breeder
can also find pet level information in ``Everything...''
Probably the most essential thing both offer is a reference section on
hedgehog health, body chemistry norms, and drugs (including quantities) that
have been safely used to treat hedgehog maladies. Given that relatively few
veterinarians in North America have even heard of hedgehogs as pets, let
alone ever treated them, taking one of these books with you to a vet in time
of emergency could easily be a life saving act.
That's the good news; the problem is that these books are generally only
available directly from Pat Storer herself, although the Ain't No Creek Ranch
[2.8] also carries them. In any case, here are the details:
Everything You Wanted to Know About Hedgehogs But you didn't know who to ask
Third Edition
Written and Compiled by Pat Storer
Country Storer Enterprises, Publisher
P.O. Box 160
Columbus, Texas 78934
USA
Single Copies (In U.S.): $22.00 US dollars + shipping
by 4th Class Mail
Pat Storer now takes credit cards, but money orders are fine too. The prices
and info above is up to date as of July 1997, thanks to Pat Storer herself.
There is one minor correction to ``Everything...'' that should be noted:
The correct number for Rainbow Mealworms (mentioned in Storer's book) is 310-635-1494.
-- Katherine Long
Other books on pet hedgehogs are also available and can be found at some book
stores, or by contacting the publishers directly. I've listed the
information I have on them below. The first is with thanks to Elizabeth Jane
Monroe and Znofyl.
African Pygmy Hedgehogs as your New Pet
Dennis Kelsey-Wood, pics. by Ralph Lermayer
copyright 1995
distributed by T.F.H. Publications, Inc.,
One T.F.H. Plaza, Neptune City, NJ 07753
or National Book Network, Inc.
4720 Boston Way, Lanham, MD 20706
or in Canada, H & L Pet Supplies Inc.,
27 Kingston Crescent, Kitchener, Ontario N2B 2T6
and other places. ISBN # is 079380192-3
Abstract: ``This book represents the culmination of years of research by dedicated hedgehog breeders. Dennis Kelsey-Wood has compiled, through intense research, interviews, and study, what I feel is the finest, most accurate, and complete gathering of hedgehog facts on husbandry, breeding, and care that has ever been assembled in one book. From its accurate text to its superb photos, it is destined to become a classic and will no doubt be the standard for anyone interested in these fascinating animals. Enjoy it
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part3
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs
Last-modified: 26 November 2011
Version: 3.152
HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 3 of 7) -- INTRO TO HEDGEHOGS AS PETS
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara (macnam...@hedgehoghollow.com)
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.
This document is copyright 2011 by Brian MacNamara. See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.
The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one. A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given in part I.
Please note: While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care. I did not write, or verify, all the information in this FAQ. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way. For advice from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with hedgehogs.
------------------------------
Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE
3. *** Introduction to pet hedgehogs ***
<3.1> What are hedgehogs? Should I get one? What's good and bad
about them as pets?
<3.2> Where are pet hedgehogs illegal?
<3.3> Are hedgehogs wild animals?
<3.4> What's the average hedgehog lifespan?
<3.5> I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to hedgehogs?
<3.6> Do hedgehogs smell?
<3.7> Do hedgehogs have tails?
<3.8> Hedgehog monikers -- what do I call a hedgehog?
<3.9> Her-hog or Him-hog? What sex is Prickles?
4. *** Getting a pet hedgehog ***
<4.1> Which types/colours are there? Male or female? What age?
<4.2> How many should I get? <4.3> What to look for in a hedgehog / How to choose a hedgehog
<4.4> How can I find a hedgehog breeder/contact in my area?
<4.5> When Hedgie comes home
<4.6> Hedgehog handling / socializing
<4.7> How can I introduce my hedgehog to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/
rabbit/etc.) with the least trouble?
Subject: <3.1> What are hedgehogs? Should I get one? What's good and bad
about them as pets?
Hedgehogs are small insectivores, looking much like an upside-down oval bowl,
that is covered with sharp quills, which feel much like a bristly brush, with
an adorable little face and ears peeking out from one end. Neither legs nor
tail are very visible during normal movement. Hedgehogs roll into a ball of
interlocking spines when threatened, leaving themselves all but invulnerable
to any natural predator.
Hedgehogs do have soft fur on their faces and bellies, and so are not
entirely prickly. Their spines or quills have no barbs on them, and feel
much like a stiff brush, rather than bunch of needles, unless the hedgehog is
very upset.
Some hedgehogs have what appears to be a narrow reverse Mohawk hairdo (a
narrow furrow that runs lengthwise), though this is not present in all
species (e.g., the Egyptian hedgehog doesn't have this).
It isn't a scar, they haven't lost quills. It is natural and helps the quills point forward without getting crossed when they bristle.
-- Katherine Long
Ranging in size from approximately 4 to 9 inches, or 10 to 22 cm, in length,
mature African Pigmy hedgehogs look for all the world to be little armoured
tanks being led around by one of the busiest noses in the animal kingdom.
Hedgehogs tend to be quite nervous in their temperament, and will generally
duck their head down, accompanied by rapid snuffling or snorting. This
presents a very prickly forehead to any possible enemies. The more used to
you (and awake) a hedgehog is, the less they will duck down and snuffle, and
the more their quills will be flat.
The hedgehogs that we keep as pets, throughout North and South America [4.1],
and I believe many other parts of the world, have managed to muddy the
already very clouded waters of hedgehog taxonomy. What we call ``African
Pigmy'' hedgehogs, are actually a hybrid of a couple of species from northern
and central Africa. Specifically, they are a combination of the Algerian
(Atelerix algirus) and the White-bellied (A. albiventris). The Southern
African or Cape hedgehog (A. frontalis) is not really part of the mixture,
although they do seem to be sporatically kept as pets in their native
regions. The status or categorization of the Pruner's hedgehog (A. pruneri)
is up in the air, and this may actually be an alternate name for the Cape
hedgehog (A. frontalis).
Just to add to the mess, there is more than a little uncertainty which
species actually makes up what we call the long-eared, or Egyptian hedgehog,
in the pet world. You see, there are Long-eared hedgehogs (Hemiechinus
auritus), and there are Egyptian hedgehogs (not an official name from what I
can tell, most likely these being Ethiopian hedgehogs) (Paraechinus
aethiopicus). Both of these, as you can tell by their taxonomic names, are
of quite different genera let alone species.
So, as you can see, things are a more than a bit muddled when it comes to
deciding which hedgehog is what. I must extend my regards to Nigel Reeve,
whose research helped provide some sense of consistency to all of this, at
last.
To add to the fray, here are some comments from Nathan Tenny:
Hedgehog taxonomy is kind of a mess, and they have multiple Latin names; the leader now seems to be Erinaceus albiventris, but one also sees Atelerix albiventris and Atelerix pruneri. (I think that Pruner's hedgehog is now considered to be a separate species, but it hasn't always been.) [this remains pretty uncertain and iffy in most research
that I've found - ed.] There may be some overlap with Erinaceus frontalis [Atelerix does seem to have become the accepted genus name
for A. frontalis - ed.] as well, and just to complicate matters, older works refer to the genus Atelerix as Aethechinus.
Grzimek's Animal Encyclopedia says that they weigh about 200-220 grams (about seven ounces); this is for wild animals. Captives seem to be much larger; the smallest of our three hedgehogs is 250 g and growing, and our large male weighs about 400-450 g when he isn't overweight.
(However, all our animals have come from exceptionally large bloodlines.)
Adults are about six to eight inches long, depending on how far they're stretching when you measure.
Hedgehogs are basically nocturnal; they may wake up a couple of times during the day to wander around their enclosures, get a snack or a drink of water, and so on, but they really get active late at night (ours wake up between 10 PM and midnight, but that may be because that's when we turn the lights off).
Whether they have wonderful personalities depends on your taste. Your
prospective hedgehog will sleep all day, and, while it may well become
quite sociable when awake, it probably will not let you pick it up when
it wants to sleep. (Can you blame it? More to the point, can you argue
with it?) We've never met an African hedgehog that would bite aggressively, though there are rumours of such. (Note that all the Africans we've known have been not only captive-bred but hand-raised from infancy; we make no guarantees about imports or non-socialized animals.) They do explore with their mouths, so if you smell interesting, you may get licked or nipped; they have fairly sharp teeth (a row of short pegs with points, but nothing drastic).
As pets go, hedgehogs are generally not cuddly lap-fungus type pets, but if
you want something that's a little different, not too big, and definitely
adorable, then maybe a hedgehog is for you. If, however, you have been
fascinated by hedgehogs for about twenty years, like I have, there is just no
question.
Among their pros and cons, you should keep in mind the nocturnal nature of
hedgehogs. If you are a night-owl, or often find yourself up and around
during the dark hours, a hedgehog can be a very welcome companion. On the
other hand, if you jump out of bed early in the morning and fade with the
sun, you and your hedgehog may never see one another.
Although most hedgehogs rarely, if ever, bite or nip, it does happen, as can
occur with any animal. For information on biting see section [6.6]
Hedgehogs are also relatively low maintenance (though not ``no
maintenance''). There's no need to take them out for a walk around the block
in the middle of a raging blizzard, or head off to the park, pooper-scooper
in hand, during a heat wave, with a hedgehog. Their small, but not too
small, size also makes for a good compromise. They do prefer regular
attention, but it doesn't need to be long at a time.
Then there's always the one really effective decision factor: hedgehogs are
irresistibly CUTE!
------------------------------
Subject: <3.2> Where are hedgehogs illegal?
Unfortunately, there are some locations that do not yet allow pet hedgehogs.
The IHA [2.5] can possibly help provide guidance on how you can enlighten
any backward bureaucracies you run into. The list below started as a very
stripped down version of the last list published by the N.A.H.A. to which I
have also included additional notes
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part4
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs
Last-modified: 26 November 2011
Version: 3.152
HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 4 of 7) -- HEDGEHOGS AS PETS
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara (macnam...@hedgehoghollow.com)
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.
This document is copyright 2011 by Brian MacNamara. See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.
The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one. A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given in part I.
Please note: While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care. I did not write, or verify, all the information in this FAQ. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way. For advice from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with hedgehogs.
------------------------------
Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE
5. *** Things you'll need ***
<5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?
<5.2> Do I need a cage? How should I set it up?
<5.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding. Should I?
<5.4> Litter boxes and what kind of litter should I use?
<5.5> I'm having problems litter-training my hedgehog. What should I be doing?
<5.6> Hedgehogs and wheels
<5.7> Making your own wheel
<5.8> Any suggestions on toys?
6. *** Basic hedgehog care and training ***
<6.1> How can I best hedgehogproof my home?
<6.2> What should I feed my hedgehog?
<6.3> Commercial hedgehog foods and nutrition
<6.4> What are good treats?
<6.5> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails?
<6.6> Biting and nipping
<6.7> HELP, my hedgehog is LOST! (or Hedgehog Hide-and-Seek)
Subject: <5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?
A brief list of things needed right away is covered in section [4.5], and is
meant as a getting started list. This section, and the ones that follow, are
meant to provide information in greater detail.
There are only a few things that are essential to keep a pet hedgehog.
Basically a warm place to live (either a large cage/pen/aquarium, or a room
-- if you want to let your hedgehog run free), a food dish (preferably one
that is not easy to tip over), a water bottle, such as for Guinea pigs,
(water dishes can tend to become soiled and baby hedgehogs can easily drown
in them, but adults often like them), and last but not least, something big
enough for your hedgehog to hide in as a den. Of course food, water and
other treats are a given!
It is also a good idea to have a shallow litter box or pan (although not all
hedgehogs seem inclined to use them), and some type of bedding (aspen
shavings, clean straw, etc., but NOT cedar [5.3]).
An exercise wheel [5.6] and [5.7] (big enough for a hedgehog) is also
strongly recommended -- especially for hedgehogs that don't have the run of
the house. Hedgehogs tend to be surprisingly energetic, and need the chance
to use up some of this energy. In addition, it appears more and more that
hedgehogs who have and use wheels live much longer and generally seem not to
come down with some of the more common serious ailments, such as Fatty Liver
Disease. Because of this, I am quickly reaching the opinion that a proper
wheel is more of a necessity than a luxury. Given how easy (and even fun) it
is to make a wheel, there really is no excuse for not having one.
------------------------------
Subject: <5.2> Do I need a cage? How should I set it up?
This is largely a matter of choice, yours and theirs. Some hedgehog owners
wouldn't dream of caging their prickly little friends, while some breeders
use large cat carriers to keep their hoards in (one hedgehog, one carrier).
I personally use large wire cages that were intended for medium to large dogs
as homes for my hedgehogs. These cages measure about 2' wide x 3' deep x
2.5' high (frankly I wouldn't put a dog bigger than a Chihuahua in something
this size, but the labels claim they were designed for collies and similar
sized dogs!).
I should point out that organizations, such as VEZ [2.7], recommend ``one
square meter (approximately 1 sq. yard) of floorspace for [each] hedgehog.''
This is a good rule of thumb, since hedgies are not as small as hamsters or
gerbils, and do need space to roam in. The alternative is to give them a
good play time, each night, to roam about a larger area under supervision.
You should be careful to make sure the grating in the cage you use leaves
narrow enough holes that your hedgehog can't get out, or even get his head
wedged in between the wires. Chicken wire is probably not a very safe
choice. Hedgehogs will often attempt to escape with an astounding amount of
vigor and can be quite single minded about doing so. Younger hedgehogs can
easily get out of cages with openings between the wires as small as 1/2''
(1.5 cm) -- trust me on this, Sprocket earned the middle name Houdini for
just this achievement, while Pocus would gleefully climb to the top of the
cage looking for even the smallest niche to squeeze through.
Probably the most cost effective cage system I'm aware of is to use the large
clear plastic bins (with lids) that look like giant Tupperware containers,
and are available inexpensively from most hardware and department stores
these days. Drill plenty of holes in the top (small enough that a hedgehog
won't fit through, but large enough to provide lots of air), or even along
the sides, towards the top, and you have a very easy to clean cage, that is
also easy to get at to get your hedgie out.
The best part of the plastic bin idea is that, if you find ones that are not
big enough, just use two, or three, or create a whole complex of them. Using
inexpensive plastic plumbing pipes and fittings, you can create a hedgehog
palace in a short time. Just beware to make sure tunnels slope at an angle
that hedgehogs can manage comfortably.
Skewer lives in one such plastic bin that was far too low to give clearance
for his wheel. Since leaving the top off was a guaranteed escape in the
making, we solved the problem by cutting out a section of the lid, and
putting another small, but deep, plastic bin over it, glued to the larger
lid. This dome roof covers his wheel nicely, and ensures he only wanders
(escapes from the cage) when it's intended (i.e., gets out for playtime).
Bedding, such as aspen shavings [5.3], is recommended in any cage, and most
importantly, some sort of place to hide is needed. Alternately, you can use
astroturf, or something like non-clumping cat litter [5.4] (make sure it's
not dusty), or even epoxy coated aquarium stones (some sort of soft bed area
is recommended, though). Do watch out for the pieces of litter or bedding
getting caught in sensitive places as mentioned in sections [5.4] and [9.1].
The most frequently recommended den is a section of 4'' (or 6'' for larger
hedgehogs) diameter PVC (plastic) plumbing pipe. You can get this at almost
any hardware or plumbing store for a couple of dollars.
For a home, or den, I have used a variety of items. For Velcro I used two
wicker bread baskets (about 4'' x 6'' and 2-3'' deep) tied securely together
with a door cut towards one end (about 3'' x 3''). Velcro preferred this
over either the PVC pipe home, or a hollow log, however, Popeye, who
inherited Velcro's cage and den won't have anything to do with it, preferring
to sleep under a hedgebag (a cloth bag with no seams). Pocus, however,
preferred the PVC pipe or especially a hollow log, and wouldn't have anything
to do with the basket (except as a toy -- Pocus tossed it like a seal with a
ball). Hedgehogs *can* be fickle! For Quibble, Quiver and Pepper, who live
together, we use a stackable plastic bin, turned upside down, which provides
(almost) enough space for three plump hedgebutts to snuggle together at
naptime.
A word of caution about using old socks or cloth with a loose weave to it:
Don't use anything fabric for them to hide in. I did have an old sock...
Koosh liked to climb inside it, but the vet told me of an instance where
a hedgehog got his leg caught in a thread, tried to get out, only made it
worse, and the thread ended up slicing through her flesh to the bone. He
said he was able to save the leg, though.
-- Kathleen Close
If you're going to use an aquarium, I would not recommend anything less that
a 20 gallon size, and preferably larger, as a basic home for a hedgehog --
they are much too active for anything less, and small enclosures will quickly
lead to an overweight and unhealthy hedgehog.
Cages at the large end of being suitable for Guinea pigs or rabbits are
likely fine. Keep in mind that hedgehogs like to explore, and they are great
escape artists. They can climb anything they can get their claws hooked
into, and by rolling into a ball and leaning forward, they can manage to get
down quite safely from virtually any height that didn't need a long ladder to
get them up to.
Tammy Baer sent in the following, interesting twist on the pet carrier home.
I think this has some real merit
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part5
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs
Last-modified: 26 November 2011
Version: 3.152
HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 5 of 7) -- HEDGEHOG HEALTH CARE AND UNDERSTANDING
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara (macnam...@hedgehoghollow.com)
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.
This document is copyright 2011 by Brian MacNamara. See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.
The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one. A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given below.
Please note: While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care. I did not write, or verify, all the information in this FAQ. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way. For advice from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with hedgehogs.
------------------------------
Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE
7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do ***
<7.1> Self-anointing. What is it? Why do hedgehogs do it?
<7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot. Is that normal?
<7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?
<7.4> My hedgehog sneezes. What should I do?
<7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic? Is this normal?
<7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire
8. *** Basic health care ***
<8.1> What health risks should I worry about?
<8.2> Mites (or mites, not?)
<8.3> Tattered or ragged ears
<8.4> Hedgehog first-aid kit
<8.5> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?
<8.6> Vaccinations, etc.
9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***
<9.1> Various hedgehog health issues
<9.2> My hedgehog's had funny-looking stools for a couple of days.
What's wrong?
<9.3> My hedgehog's not eating. What should I do?
<9.4> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of
them?
<9.5> Wobbly hedgehogs
Subject: <7.1> Self-anointing. What is it? Why do hedgehogs do it?
I have mentioned self-anointing (or self-lathering, as it is sometime called,
in at least the U.K.) repeatedly throughout the FAQ, so now it is time to
explore the hedgehog's one truly unique trait. Nathan Tenny provided a good
description of this interesting and perplexing hedgehog habit:
If you smell *really* interesting, your hedgehog will lick
or nibble on you, back off, and suddenly contort itself, start foaming at the mouth, and lick the foam onto its spines. This ``self-anointing'' has to be seen to be believed, but it's perfectly normal. It's not known for sure why they do it, but it probably has something to do with self-defence; hedgehogs are *highly* resistant to most toxins, and when they encounter something that might be toxic, they get it in their mouths, foam, and cover themselves with the toxic mixture. The result is a toxic hedgehog, which is really something to reckon with. (Incidentally, the toxin resistance of hedgehogs is truly prodigious and has been the subject
of some research; they are one of the few animals that can safely eat
giant toads (_Bufo marinus_), for instance.)
One more last note: We don't know why this happens, but even without the benefit of self-anointing, their spines seem to have a mild toxic/irritant effect; when you prick yourself on one, even slightly, it hurts more than it should, and for a little bit longer. No big deal, just sort of strange.
One of the most effective ways to provoke a session of self-anointing is to
pick up your hedgehog when you have sweaty hands, or after having used hand
lotion, or a different type of soap.
In any case, once you have witnessed this entertaining act, and you have
calmed down enough to understand your little friend doesn't have rabies after
all, you will likely be convinced that hedgehogs do not have backbones. It's
really hard to believe something as round as a hedgehog can twist itself into
that contorted a position. It's also a bit disconcerting to learn just how
long that tongue is!
------------------------------
Subject: <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot. Is that normal?
Yep. If he doesn't, are you sure you have a hedgehog? The snuffling or
snorting (or snurfling, as my wife calls it), while having the head tucked
down, is part of the defence mechanism that has kept hedgehogs around for a
very long time. It basically leaves them with their quills protecting every
bit of visible surface, but still allows the hedgehog to move. The snuffling
and snorting is usually accompanied by sudden lurches in the direction the
hedgehog believes its potential enemy is in, to try and give it a good
warning prickle.
The more your hedgehog comes to know you, the less you will get the sharp
shoulder treatment. One exception to this is if your hedgehog is sleepy. A
sleepy hedgehog can be very insistent about not being disturbed [3.1].
Getting your hedgehog to become familiar with you takes a lot of patience,
but it is worth it. If your hedgehog tends to be somewhat shy or unfriendly
towards you, try spending more time holding him -- chances are he just
doesn't associate your smell with being a friend, yet. For more information
on getting your hedgie used to you, see section [4.6].
------------------------------
Subject: <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?
A quick note here: this section applies to African Pigmy hedgehogs, rather
than European hedgehogs (which do hibernate, primarily between January and
March).
A common concern is whether or not pet hedgehogs can, or should hibernate --
especially as winter starts to arrive. The answer to the first part -- can
they? -- is yes. The answer to the second part -- should they? -- is NO!
Our pet hedgehogs are African in origin. They have adapted to the much
warmer climate, and have generally lost the ability to tolerate hibernation.
While they can still go into hibernation, when they get too cold, and they do
have the ability to Aestivate (similar to hibernation, but to survive very
hot, dry periods), their chances of surviving either for more than a brief
period are virtually nonexistant. In effect the hibernation ability is
almost vestigal, and aestivation is almost as dangerous for an animal which
is not prepared for it.
As pets, hedgehogs do not stock up on food, nor put on the necessary extra
body fat (at least in the right manner) needed to get through hibernation. A
pet that is allowed to even suffer semi-hibernation extensively can suffer
long term effects (becomming very weak and sick), and those that do end up in
full hibernation will rarely survive beyond 1-2 days in this state, if at
all.
Now that we've made it clear that they shouldn't be allowed to hibernate (or
even go into semi-hibernation, what are the signs to look for, and how do you
prevent it from happening? The good news is that if caught in time, the
effects are reversable. If the temperature where they are kept drops too low
(below about 20 degrees C or 68 degrees F), they can start preparing for
hibernation and will certainly go into hibernation for brief periods, if the
temperature drops much below this -- at least until the temperature returns
to a comfortable level.
If your hedgehog seems to be sleeping too soundly, and you are worried, any
kind of movement to his or her bed will usually earn you at least a brief
spate of unhappy snuffling. If this happens, then you can probably assume
you've just disturbed a sleepy hedgehog, or at least he's not in full
hibernation. If this and nudging at him don't have any effect, and he's been
in quite a cool (for a hedgehog) temperature, he may have slipped into the
beginnings of hibernation, and should be gently (and slowly) warmed up, which
should let him awaken, and come back to full activity.
Hedgehogs will also tend to slow down and get somewhat grumpy if they are
kept at a temperature that's too cool for their liking. If you're finding
that your previously energetic hedgehog is acting a bit slow and grumpy, and
cool weather has started to arrive, then you may want to take steps to warm
up your hedgehog [5.2], [7.3].
One of the most common signs of a hedgehog being too cold (semi-hibernation),
is being very unsteady on its feet. Wobbly hedgehogs, or ones showing signs
of problems in their hindquarters are almost always due to being too cold.
There are some other causes for this type of symptom, as well (see [9.5] on
Wobbly Hedgehogs), but of the cases I've heard of over 99% are from being
cold.
Another sign that a hedgehog that is too cool is its going off its food. If
your hedgehog isn't eating, and is walking a bit funny, it may be because he
is a bit cool.
The first thing to do is to check to see if the animal is warm enough.
Feel its legs and belly. If these feel chilled the animal needs to be
immediately warmed up. A chilled hedgehog will walk as if it is drunk.
A variety of methods can be used to warm them. The one that I use is
to put the animal in the cut off sleeve of a sweatshirt. I then put
it in a box (I actually have an 8
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part6
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs
Last-modified: 26 November 2011
Version: 3.152
HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 6 of 7) -- ADVANCED TOPICS IN HEDGEHOGGERY
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara (macnam...@hedgehoghollow.com)
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.
This document is copyright 2011 by Brian MacNamara. See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.
The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one. A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given below.
Please note: While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care. I did not write, or verify, all the information in this FAQ. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way. For advice from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with hedgehogs.
------------------------------
Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE
10. *** Breeding, babies, and advanced issues ***
<10.1> Breeding
<10.2> General care for babies
<10.3> Hand feeding baby hedgehogs
<10.4> Colours, types, and species
Breeding hedgehogs can be both the most rewarding, and the most
heart-wrenching of endeavors. Few activities can come close to matching the
wonders and pleasures of having babies, but at the same time the dangers
involved, and problems that can arise are very great.
I'm not going to try and cover all the basics of animal husbandry, here --
that's a topic better left to many books on the subject. I'm only going to
address hedgehog issues. Besides, if you don't know the basics of husbandry
and breeding, you should not be considering it -- at least not yet.
Baby hedgehogs are nothing short of addictively cute. If you think an adult
can steal your heart, beware that a mother being followed by a litter of
adorable little hoglets is many levels of magnitude cuter. The reason for
this warning is that it can be very easy to fall into the trap of breeding
just to enjoy the babies. There is an immense responsibility that goes with
breeding, and it should not be undertaken lightly -- these are living,
feeling animals, and that thought must always be at the forefront of your
mind.
If you are going to breed, make very very sure of the following, first:
(1) That you are willing to risk losing the mother, due to
complications!
(2) That you can find good, caring homes for ALL the babies. This can
certainly include you, but remember, you may need as many as 8 new
cages or enclosures to keep the results of one litter!
(3) If there are complications with the birth, or problems with the
babies, it might entail some not inconsiderable veterinary bills.
(4) If mom rejects the babies, you might have to take care of them (a
very considerable effort), or have them put to sleep.
Okay, you've considered the points, above, and you want to breed your
hedgehog(s). The following will cover various points of breeding. For
actual caring for the babies (with or without mom), please see sections
[10.2] and [10.3]
[Credit for much of what follows is largely thanks to various breeder
friends that I've met over the past few years, and some of my own,
minor experiences. I hope you will forgive me for not listing you by
name, as the points are `mostly' a blend of all your wisdom! -Ed.]
I would strongly recommend that you seek out an experienced hedgehog breeder
and spend some time talking with him/her. I don't have the experience or the
space to cover all the information that you really should know. Also, having
someone you can turn to with questions will prove more than invaluable.
First, a few guidelines for deciding who, of prickly nature, to put together
for the romantic event. To breed hedgehogs, obviously, the minimum you need
is a male and a female, but there are many other points to consider.
Breeding of ill tempered hedgehogs is not a good idea, breeding of related
hedgehogs can also be a bad idea. Choose the hedgehogs to be bred with some
care. This can be for colour, temperament, or other values, but don't be
indiscriminant.
Females should not be bred before at least 5 months of age, as they have not
finished growing and maturing themselves. Once bred, the hormonal changes
will basically stop further maturation, and the drain on their metabolisms
caused by having babies while still trying to grow themselves, can have
permanent adverse affects on their health.
Males, too, should not be bred before about 4-5 months, although the side
effects are not as problematic for them. The biggest problem is that they
just may not be up to the task, at least as well as they should be.
Also, don't breed a female for the first time, if she is beyond 1.5 years
old. If you do, there is a very good chance that the bones in her pelvic
area will have fused, such that she will not be able to have the babies. If
you are not sure how old she is, but suspect she may be beyond 1.5, don't
risk it!
There is also a point at about 3.5 years of age, when many females become
menopausal. Breeders will often note that litter sizes may taper off as this
age is approached.
Finally, after each litter, it is important to give your female a break to
recover from the effort. I would not recommend any more than 3 litters per
year. Beyond that is going to place an unnecessary drain on the female, and
affect her health (and her ability to produce and care for ongoing litters).
More than this number of litters per year really suggests that you are not
breeding hedgehogs, but trying to run a production line.
Breeding hedgehogs is not difficult, but it does come with a wide variety of
problems. Probably most notable is that mother hedgehogs will tend to eat
the babies if disturbed at all for a few days prior to, and for up to about
10 days after the birth. This can be heartbreaking and very frustrating to
would be breeders.
By our (human) standards, this sort of thing is unthinkable, and very hard to
accept. Before you think too badly of hedgehogs for this, take a look at
their natural environment. In the wild, any kind of disturbance is all but
certainly a predator that WILL eat the babies (mom can and will try to defend
them, but in a burrow, there's only so much she can hope to do). Because
finding enough food and energy to develop the babies is a very difficult
thing in the rather harsh conditions in which our little friends are native,
mother hedgehogs cannot afford to lose all of that. In the end, it's a
matter of survival to ``reabsorb'' the babies, in this way, then to lose all
of that to a passing predator. If all are lost, try again in 3 months. If
losing litters continues to happen, it might be that the female is just not
cut out to be a mom, and it would be better not to breed her.
So, for the actual amourous encounter, what is needed? Actually, not that
much. Simply put the two loverhogs together, sit back, and watch the fun.
Male hedgehogs know what to do (females do as well, but will often play hard
to get). Males will usually squeak very loudly and plaintively when they
encounter a female -- and the actual courtship antics are usually VERY
entertaining.
There are opinions both ways on whose cage (hers or his) to use, but most
breeders seem to prefer to use the male's cage, under the assumption that the
female will be more receptive, and the male will feel less out of place and
more inclined to do his `duty.' It is wise to remove as many items from the
cage as is reasonable, while they are together, such as wheels, extra dens,
and items that make good hiding places for a female who wants to defend her
honour. Even so, you can pretty much count on the entire cage being severely
`redecorated' frequently and often!
Hedgehogs DO have a `heat,' or estrus cycle, and are not entirely induced
ovulators, as had been previously thought. The cycle is typically about 9
days on, followed by 7 days off, but is not absolute.
In order to catch the cycle, many breeders will put the male and female
together for about 4-5 days, separate them for 4 days, then put them back
together for another 4-5 days. Others breeders have suggested using a single
10-day period, while others still will use only a single 3-day get together,
observing the female to see if she is responsive. Experience and trial and
error will likely be your best guides here. If you have spoken to a breeder
with experience, try the schedule that they use, or one of the schedules
mentioned here. In most cases, the pair will get along quite well, but do
watch out as sometimes fights will occur.
Once the romance has passed, it is now time to separate the pair. Now that
mating is over, the father to be, can drop out of the picture, as he plays no
further role in what follows. Keeping the male in with the female when the
babies arrive is virtually guaranteed to have them both eat the babies.
Is your female pregnant? Well, this is another place that I can only offer
theory. Personally, I have gotten it wrong (both ways) far more
