Pet mouse FAQ - draft 4
Jan Fidrmuc
information as you can while keeping the file short. The FAQ should not
contain stories about who kept what kind of mice and how much fun they
had with it, etc.
Jan
Angela King
Draft 4
*******************
I'm compiling a pet mouse FAQ - would anyone else like to contribute or
comment? Perhaps people could write (& sign) sections in areas which
particularly interest them. I've started off with a couple of sections below.
Please email me if you'd like to add anything or comment.
Angela King (udt...@kcl.ac.uk)
Disclaimer:
------------
The contributors to this FAQ are not veterinary surgeons; they are ordinary
people who keep mice and who have agreed to share their experiences and
to pass on information gleaned from other sources. We hope that the advice
and information in this FAQ will be useful to you, but you must take it at
your own risk. Please feel free to copy or distribute this file as long
as it is properly accredited.
Contributors as at 1 March 1996:
-------------------------------
Angela King (London, England)
Ted Parsons and Susan Randlett (Alaska, US)
KEEPING MICE AS PETS
********************
1.0 Why keep mice as pets?
---------------------------
They are very happy and playful, active creatures. They are great fun to
watch. Some fancy mice are extremely pretty. They get to know their owners
and will come to take treats off you, climb onto your hand and run all over
you. They are very easy to keep, undemanding pets.
1.1 How many should I get?
--------------------------
At least two - mice are social animals and it is *very* unnatural for them to
live alone. Single mice are generally bored, lonely and miserable, and they
do not make good pets as they tend to spend more time sleeping or hiding in
the nestbox than mice kept in groups. With a single mouse you also miss out on
the fun of watching mice play together and groom each other. It is really not
fair to mice to keep them alone if it can be avoided - if they liked solitude,
they woudn't live in colonies in the wild.
Having said that, you CANNOT introduce an adult male mouse to another male - if
they do not fight to the death, one is likely to die from the stress of the
experience. So adult male mice which are aggressive have to live alone unless
they are used for breeding. But living alone does not have to be a disaster
for your mouse if you are prepared to put in a lot of effort to make his
life more enjoyable - see below. Angela King
I agree that mice benefit from communal living, but here are the
stories of two solo mice we had at different times:
Male mouse lived alone in a two-level home (plastic tank on top of an
aquarium, with a rope to travel between the levels. We trained him to
come out the upstairs door when he heard a certain whistled tone. We
whistled him out for play time twice a day, morning and evening. He
went on a few airplane trips in my pocket. He had lots of toys, a big
variety of food, and lots of love. When he died of thoracic cancer I
felt he had led a good life.
Female pet store "runt" lived originally in a small plastic aquarium,
graduating to a larger tank, and finally kept on a small coffee table
without restraint. She was also trained to a whistle, so it was easy
to beckon her for play time. Because she had a neurological problem,
she could only turn in a circle. So, we gave her a bicycle tire and
other circular tracks for exercise. When she died of leukemia, I felt
she had had a good life also.
Because of the time commitment involved in being a mouse's primary
companion, I agree that a pair makes a better pet. However, I
know of a few cases where a pet store sold a "female" pair that turned
out to be a male and female. Susan Randlett/Ted Parsons
(Tips on how to tell male and female mice apart below - you should not have
any problem with this once you've read up on the subject! AK).
1.2 How old should they be when I get them?
--------------------------------------------
Baby mice are weaned from their mother at about four weeks old, but they
benefit a lot from staying with their litter mates for another week - the
disruption of leaving both mother, sibilings and home in one day is a lot to
cope with. Ideally they should not leave the litter before 5 weeks of age.
They are not fully grown until at least 12 weeks of age, although many mice
take longer than this to reach full size. Angela King
1.3 Can you ever keep males together?
-------------------------------------
Yes, if they are introduced very young (under 5 weeks old), and preferably
when they are from the same litter. Sometimes even established groups of males
fall out, though - you have to watch them carefully. Some strains of mice are
more aggressive than others, & so your success in keeping males together will
depend in large part on the family background of your mice.
Neutered males can live together or with females. Angela King
1.4 Don't mice smell? How can I stop them smelling so much?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Males smell a lot - they produce a musk-like substance. Females smell much
less and many people find they cannot smell a couple of females at all if they
are kept clean. Mouse cages need to be cleaned out at least once a week to
stop them smelling offensive. Other tricks include putting a glass jar in the
cage in the dirtiest corner, and small lengths of plastic pipe laid on the
floor of the cage; the mice use this as a toilet & it can be rinsed out
regularly. Angela King
We use a highly absorbent bedding (CareFresh), and an air filter.
Since all our males (except spiny's) are neutered, the odor is not too
bad to start with. Susan Randlett/Ted Parsons
(Highly absorbent beddings such as CareFresh, SaniChips, BioFlush, Yesterday's
News, BioCatolet etc have two advantages: not only do they keep the smell
down, but they keep your mice healthier. Softwood shavings are proven to cause
irritation to the respiratory system and liver damage when the mice inhale
volatile oils which they give off. Cedar is the worst, followed by pine. AK)
1.5 How do you introduce adult females?
----------------------------------------
Clean out the cage thoroughly, remembering to scrub all toys and cage
furniture to remove the smell of the established mice. Since they recognise
their own territory by smell, they will be less defensive over territory that
doesn't smell like it is their own. Dab each mouse (old and new) with
something smelly like perfume or vanilla essence, to confuse their scents. Put
all the mice in the clean cage with an extra-tasty feed. There will almost
always be some squeaking and occasionally tail biting while a hierarchy is
established. If any female mouse is vicious towards the others and inflicts
serious wounds then do not breed from her - she will pass on her nasty
temperament to her children. Angela King
1.6 Can male mice be neutered?
------------------------------
Yes. Traditionally the problem with operating on mice was that they didn't
survive the anaesthetic. However, mice can cope very well with Isoflourane
anaesthesia, and neutering (castration) is a relatively simple operation.
It really makes a big difference with this or any other veterinary treatment if
you find a vet who is experienced with very small mammals, and who is
comfortable with handling them. Contact local or national rat, mouse, hamster
or gerbil societies to find out if there are any recommended vets near you. AK
We have had some success keeping sibling males together from birth, but
at about four months age, fighting escalated to the point of tissue
damage (tails, ears, etc.). Rather than separate the boys, we tried
neutering. Our Vet uses isoflurane as an anesthetic, and no ill effects
have occurred. The anesthetic also permitted various other surgical
procedures on mice of 15-50 grams (wound repairs, etc.
We've had over a dozen of our males neutered, with no evidence of
complications. We checked with a large US Veterinary College about
other methods of birth control for mice. The professor said that
vasectomies are unsuccessful due to subsequent cyst formation; there is
no contraceptive for oral use on mice. After neutering,
aggressiveness generally diminishes, although it takes a while for
testosterone levels to go down, as it is stored in the animal's fat.
Also, the mouse remains fertile for a week or two. We have males
living with females, with each other, and unrelated males living
together thanks to neutering.
One of our favorite male mice used to get so excited that each
out-of-cage experience ended with one of us getting bitten. Since his
surgery, the biting has stopped, although he is still quite excitable
and we have him in solo houseing. One gratifying benefit of neutering
is that the male smell is substantially reduced!
Susan Parsone & Ted Randlett
1.7 How should you pick a mouse up?
-----------------------------------
With a strange or nervous mouse, the safest way to pick it up is to grasp the
BASE of its tail (not the tip) firmly, lift its bottom up slightly and slide
your other hand under the mouse, palm upwards. You can then lift your hand up
with the mouse sitting on it, but keep hold of the tail unless
you know the mouse is calm. Holding the base of the tail in this way is not
uncomfortable for the mouse *as long as you make sure its body is supported
by your other hand* and will not upset it. Most pet mice will not jump from
heights of more than a foot or so, but very nervous ones might - so keep a
grip on the tail until you're sure. Don't hold the mouse tightly round its
body - this will scare it and could hurt it.
When a mouse is comfortable with you, it may walk onto your hand if you hold
your open palm in front of it. Alternatively, you can very gently scoop it up.
In some cases you might see people picking mice up by the base of the tail and
holding them, dangling, upside down. This is not really cruel as it doesn't
hurt them, but not surprisingly most mice don't seem to like being handled like
this - it is more comfortable for them if you support the body with your hand
as described above. Holding a mouse by the tip of its tail, or near the tip,
IS cruel and could hurt it - the tip of the tail could be skinned or break off.
Angela King
Not being comfortable with picking mice up by the tail, we pick up
scared mice by enticing them into a paper tube (from toilet paper,
etc), then wait for the mouse to come out. I do this in a small room
with the door shut rather than grasp the tail for insurance. When a
mouse is more relaxed, I pick it up by putting one hand on either side
of the mouse, palms up, and scoop the mouse. As it gets more comfortable,
the mouse will walk directly only my hand. Susan Randlett/Ted Parsons
1.8 How do you tame/socialize pet mice?
----------------------------------------
Handle them often and gently, and bribe them with food. One good method is to
take all food out of the cage for a few hours, then sit down to watch TV or
read a book with the mouse cage by your side. Take a spray of millet or a
handful of cockatiel seed in your hand and just leave the hand in the mouse
cage while you concentrate on something else. The reason for using these
particular treats is that mice love the seeds, but since they are small they
have to keep coming back for more. Do this as often and for as long as you can
stand - it may take several attempts before the mice start to take food from
you, but eventually they will start to climb over your hand and perhaps try to
climb up your arms. Angela King
1.9 How can I tell what sex my mouse is?
----------------------------------------------------------
The easiest way to sex mice is by direct comparison - the distance between the
anus and genitals is greater in the male. Mice can be sexed from birth in this
way once you've had a bit of practise - so there's no excuse for pet stores
saying they 'can't guarantee it's the right sex'. When you buy a pair, before
you leave the pet store, gently lift their tails and compare their 'bits'.
They should look exactly the same. If you're not sure, take
it to a vet or humane society & ask them to check. If this option isn't
available to you, here's another one:
If the mouse is old enough to leave its mother, and if it is male, it will
have testicles. These can be drawn up into the body, but if you lift the tail
slightly and look underneath you'll still see the slightly baggy scrotum
(lovely!). Alternatively, put the mouse's food into a high-sided bowl. The
mouse will perch on the side of the bowl to eat. If it is a boy, its
testicles will soon drop down and dangle for all to see.
Only female mice have nipples, so it might be worth exaining the mouse's
tummy. They are visible in tiny babies, but once hair grows can be hard to
spot unless the mouse has reared a litter. Angela King
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MOUSE HOUSING
*************
2.1 How much space does a pair of mice need?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mice don't need very much space to survive, and many breeders and labs keep
pairs or trios in boxes or cages with floor dimensions around 9" x 16".
However, it is easy and costs very little to give your mice more than the
bare minimum of space to live in - 'survival' is not good enough for our pets.
Whatever cage you use, it should be tall enough to allow the mice to stand up
on their hind legs and sniff the air - say 6 inches. But taller cages make it
easier for you to look in from outside the cage and watch your mice.
What really matters to the mice is floorspace. Long, thin cages (eg tanks)
are better than short, wide ones as they allow more space to run. For
permanent housing a minimum of 2 square feet of floorspace will provide a very
good home for anything between 2 and 8 mice. This might be a 2' long tank, or
a wire cage with several levels. AK
2.2 What sort of housing is best?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have mice in a variety of cages - glass tanks, plastic cages and 3-storey
wire hamster cages. My experiences are as follows:
WIRE CAGES (this goes for bird cages too) - BAD POINTS:
1. If you can get a finger through the wire, a young mouse can get out.
Single mice are more prone to try to escape than mice which live in groups.
Sometimes a mouse may try to squeeze through the bars, get stuck halfway and
hurt itself.
2. If any levels in the cage have wire floors or ladders, they will be
corroded by mouse urine and your shiny new cage will be dingy and hard
to get clean within a year. Scrubbing the floors with wire wool helps.
Alternatively, you can cover wire floors with linoleum or MagicMat, or even
cardboard, and simply remove the floor covering to clean or throw away.
3. Bird and hamster cages usually have only one or two small doors. This can
make it hard to catch mice - if you have to chase them around the cage to
catch them, they will get panicked & upset. You need to be able to reach ALL
areas of the cage easily.
WIRE CAGES - GOOD POINTS:
4. Mice love to climb & wire-sided cages provide good opportunities for this.
5. Great ventilation - mice are prone to respiratory problems which are
aggravated by ammonia build-up in poorly ventilated cages.
6. Large hamster cages (multi-storey are the only ones worth considering) are
fairly cheap & easy to find.
7. Multiple-storey cages allow the mice plenty of floorspace whilst taking
up little of yours.
GLASS TANKS - BAD POINTS
1. You have to be careful cleaning them - I've found the best method is to
shovel out used bedding in a dustpan, scrape the corners out with a paint
scraper, them spray the inside with disinfectant spray. After this you need
to wipe over with clean water so the mice don't have to inhale disinfectant.
2. Obviously, heavy & they break if you drop them.
3. To provide adequate ventilation you need to make a lid of wire mesh,
no more than 1/2" square or youngsters will squeeze through (even large
show mice up to 8 weeks old can squeeze through 1" x 1/2" mesh) and they can
jump a long way up to grab the wire. The easiest way to make a lid is to staple
the wire to two battens of wood which fit tightly over the longest sides of the
cage. If you can be bothered to make a proper frame, it looks nicer!
4. Mice can't climb up the sides, so you need to put in lots of toys &
'furniture' like pieces of wood for them to climb over - they really love
scrambling over different levels.
GLASS TANKS - GOOD POINTS
5. No danger of escape as long as you make a suitable lid.
6. Bedding can be piled really deep so the mice can burrow through it and
play in it without hoofing it all over your carpet. They love deep bedding,
and they love throwing it out of the cage.
7. Keeps the smell in as well as the bedding!
8. You can easily watch your mice being excessively cute and playing in the
bedding etc..
9. Warm and protected from draughts
10. Cheap & easy to find second-hand; leaks don't matter for mice (but cracks
may be dangerous).
11. Lots of floorspace to arrange toys and furniture on.
PLASTIC CAGES
These can be either plastic tanks or boxes, or modular systems designed for
hamsters such as Habitrail, Rotastak etc.. I'm informed by hamster people that
these aren't much good for hamsters since they're vulnerable to chewing & too
small for an adult Syrian hamster. They're probably better for mice since
mice generally are less intent on escape than hamsters, and are smaller.
BAD POINTS
1. Modular systems can be fiddly to dismantle and clean.
2. Ventilation may be inadequate - a few holes bored in the plastic will
not induce much air circulation. Better to replace the lid with wire mesh if
ventilation is poor, or fit a mesh panel.
3. If you have a determined chewer it may escape.
PLASTIC CAGES - GOOD POINTS
4. Square or rectangular plastic tanks are the easiest thing in the world to
clean - just stick them in the sink.
5. Light & portable.
6. Mice love tunnels & hiding places & exploring, so modular systems provide
a lot of opportunities.
My considered favourite is the glass tank because you get so much more out of
your mice when you can see them very easily. Whatever cage you use, do situate
it at eye level - when you can see your mice easily it is easier to interact
with them & get them tame.
Angela King
I try to confine mice the least amount practical. Of course, we have
no younsters or predatory animals in the home to jeapardize the mouse's
safety. And we don't breed mice. Most of our mice are in an aquarium
or plastic tub with no lid. Some are on a table or counter with no
confinement -- I just set up their things directly on a towel laid on
the counter or table. One of the advantages of not keeping the mice in
a closed container is that they are quite accessible for play. Only a
rare mouse will not have the sense to stay away from the edge of the
table or counter. Cleaning then becomes simply a matter of washing the
towel and sanitizing the living surface. Susan Randlett/Ted Parsons
(There is more information about keeping mice without cages like this, in
a 'mouse condo' system which is like a large bird table, in a book by Horst
Bielfeld called 'Fancy Mice' - further details of book below.) AK
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
MOUSE DIETS
***********
3.01 What ready-made foods can I feed my mice?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A standard rodent mix containing an assortment of grains is adequate for most
adult mice. This does not mean it is nutritionally the very best your mice
can have - since it is designed to suit various rodents it will not be
tailored exactly to mouse requirements. However, mice enjoy picking amongst
the food and will normally take only what they need without gorging themselves.
Many of these mixes are made for hamsters - fine if your mice stay slim, but
often too fatty for those with a big appetite.
Laboratory pellets provide a complete and vitamin-enriched food, but a diet
of pellets is very, very boring and since many mice are picky eaters you may
have trouble persuading them to eat it. If you do use pellets, you can make
life more interesting for your mice by supplementing them with small portions
of fruit and veg and mealworms.
3.02 Can I make a healthier/cheaper home-made diet for my mice?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you are prepared to go to a little more trouble, a home-made mouse diet can
be far cheaper than ready-made foods, and more nutritious as well. You can
vary the following to suit the waistlines and preferences of your mice:
*1 part by volume cooked wholegrain rice (you can cook large batches & freeze
it for convenience)
*2 parts crushed barley or oats, or a mixture (or porridge oats)
*1/2 part millet or cockatiel seed
*1/2 part molasses - packed full of vitamins, and sweet too, so it binds
the foodtogether AND the mice like it.
Additional nutritional supplements can be added if desired:
*1/4 part Brewers' Yeast flakes - B vitamins to keep them healthy & happy
*1/2 part wheatgerm
*Cod liver oil according to manufacturer's recommended dosage.
This mixture is adapted from the rat diet designed by Debbie Ducommun.
Sunflower seeds can be given as treats, except to fat mice.
Cooked soya beans are very good for mice (they are thought to help prevent
tumours) and most mice love them - so you can include them as treats or an
occasional meal supplement. They have to be cooked first, or digestion
problems could result.
Stale wholemeal bread makes a very good mouse food, and lots of show mice live
on very little else. It should be allowed to dry out thoroughly first, then
soak it in water (or skimmed milk for babies/mothers, or stock/gravy for a
change of flavour). The reason for allowing the bread to go stale first is
that some mice react badly to enzymes in fresh bread which are killed by
the staling process (they get spots & itchy skin). AK
3.03 Are fruit and vegetables good for mice?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Small amounts of fruit and veg are a valuable addition to ANY of the above
feeding regimes. Only feed TINY quantities of green veg (lettuce, cabbage,
broccoli) at a time - too much causes diahorrhea, and mice can get dehydrated
by this very quickly.
Crunchy fruit & veg such as carrots & apples provide vitamins and an interesting
texture, and do not usually cause diahorrhea.
Avoid acidic foods such as citrus fruits and onions which could irritate the
digestive system.
Mice love garden peas! Frozen ones are fine, but defrost them first in water
(you don't have to cook them).
All fruit & veg are best fed raw to preserve nutritional content.
Cooked beans make a good treat - my mice love Soya beans, and they are thought
to help prevent tumours too. Note that beans MUST be soaked & cooked before
feeding - there will be instructions on the packet. Angela King
3.04 What should I feed a mouse when she has a litter?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Supplement feed with natural yoghurt, bread soaked in skimmed milk (or water
& powdered milk, which is cheaper), small pieces of cooked meat etc..
Give lots of millet & sunflower seeds. AK
3.05 What are the best treats for my mice?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wholemeal pasta, esp. wriggly spaghetti, small amounts of leftovers, live
mealworms (not the giant ones - they frighten the mice!), sunflower seeds,
their favourite fruit or veg, pieces of millet spray sold for birds, bird
treats such as millet/seed & honey bars. You can also feed them the
commercial small rodent treats sold in pet stores (eg chocolate drops), but
they are often fatty and expensive so check the label first. AK.
3.06 Are there any foods I _shouldn't_ feed my mice?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Anything fatty which DOESN'T have compensating nutritional value (eg sunflower
seeds & millet are rich in vitamins & protein, but chocolate isn't!).
*Peanuts are fattier and less nutritious than sunflower seeds.
*Chocolate can be toxic in large amounts
*Acidic fruit & veg (citrus fruits, onions etc.)
**Anthing you wouldn't eat yourself because it might give you food poisoning -
mice are susceptible to salmonella & other bacterial infections too!
*Unwashed fruit/veg which might carry pesticides etc - wash it first. AK.
3.07 What should you feed a very fat mouse?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some mice are prone to obesity - particularly red and sable coloured ones.
Often the top half of the mouse looks fine, whilst a sprawling belly spreads
out from underneath.
Obesity will shorten the mouse's lifespan & make it more vulnerable to cancer,
respiratory trouble etc.. If you want to put your fat mouse on a diet, cut out
all oily seeds (peanuts, sunflower seeds, millet etc), dairy products, fatty
treats etc.. If possible, keep her on a diet of home-made mouse food (see
above) and/or soaked staled bread, with lots of fruit & veg. You can give
her vitamin supplements to make sure the change of diet doesn't leave her
with any deficiencies. AK.
3.08 My mouse has itchy sores but there is no trace of parasites. Is it diet
related?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some mice (Only bucks in my experience, but it may happen to does too) develop
a food intolerance which results in itchy skin, sores and scabs over the back
and neck, and a generally miserable-looking mouse. If you are certain that he
does not have a parasitic infestation (lice, mites etc.. - you can't always
see them, so if in doubt ask a vet) then put him on this diet:
*Home-made mouse diet as described above - rice, oats/barley, vitamins if
required BUT NO millet or sunflower seeds.
*No corn/maize.
*Soaked staled wholemeal bread as above
*Plenty of carrot & other easily tolerated veg.
*AVOID wheat - don't substitute this for oats or barley in the molasses mix.
Judy Plummer found that a diet of lab blocks was also effective in eliminating
diet-related itchy skin. As noted above, you could supplement this with fruit
& veg.
If the mouse does suffer from the food intolerance (known as 'overheating'
in the mouse fancy), the sores & itching should start to subside within 0
10 days. He will normally be left with scabs for another few weeks or so.
Allow 4-6 weeks for a complete recovery.
Angela King
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PARASITES & SKIN PROBLEMS
*************************
4.1 My mouse has scabs on the back of his neck, scratches on his ears etc..
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
This could be caused by a parasitical infection (commonly mites) or a food
intolerance (see above).
Mites tend to hang around in the fur behind the ears and on the nape of the
neck. So do the scabs from food intolerances, which makes things difficult.
Try treating for mites first. They are not always visible to the human eye,
but those which are look like small specks of dust in the fur (sometimes red,
sometimes moving). They are normally caught from hay or straw, other mice,
or infected feed.
Treat mites with dusting powder sold for cage birds. It is important that the
powder is sold for MITE treatment & not for fleas. Most bird powders
are Pyrethrum based & safe for mice. Rub the powder in with your fingers
(brushes seem to upset the mice) and repeat the treatment as often as it says
on the packet, or alternatively three once-weekly dustings should do the trick.
At the same time you need to treat any other mice sharing a cage with the
affected mouse or near it, and to thoroughly scrub out the cage & any toys..
If you have lots of animals then you may want to consider giving them all a
precautionary dusting with mite powder after every new arrival, or after any
attend a show or meet other animals.
Another very effective treatment for mites is Ivermectin. This is a medicine
which is great for removing stubborn parasites, but dosage is very important &
for a mouse it will be a *tiny* amount (since the product is manufactured
for cattle & other large livestock). So if you want to use this it really is
necessary to visit a vet and get them to check the required dose.
Other measures you can take are to sprinkle flowers of sulphur in the
bedding, hang a Vapona or similar insecticidal strip near the cage, and feed
the mouse garlic (crushed in its food, or squeeze the oil out of a garlic
oil capsule).
Obviously insecticides need to be used with caution, so don't exceed the
recommended dose of whatever you use & if you hang an insecticide strip near
the mouse cage then treat this as a short-term measure only - it might harm
the mice if left there permanently.
If the product you use to treat for mites does not cover lice as well
then it may be worth giving an additional treatment for this parasite.
Other mouse skin problems apart from these parasitical infestations and the
food intolerance probably need veterinary attention. In particular you might
see:
RINGWORM:
Bald areas of skin, sometimes crusty as well, which spread out
(often but not exclusively in a round pattern). Caused by ringworm,
which is HIGHLY contagious and can be very difficult to treat. Humans can
catch it too. See your vet at once if you suspect it.
MANGE:
Nasty parasite which lays eggs in the skin. They hatch into larvae which
wriggle around and cause terrible itching. Very contagious - again humans
can catch it (I caught it off a dog as a baby - the doctor didn't know what it
was, so eventually my parents took me to the vet who diagnosed it straight
away!). Again a case for immediate veterinary treatment if it occurs,
although I have never actually met anyone whose mice have contracted mange.
Angela King
================================================================================
BREEDING
********
6.1 How do you breed mice?
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With caution! Most mice are very, very fertile - they have up to 17 babies
(called pinkies at first) per litter, although 8-10 is more normal. If a
pair are left together, they can produce a litter every 3-4 weeks; they do
not 'take a break' or plan their family. It is hard to find enough good homes
even for very pretty mice, so don't breed unless you're sure you can find
homes. Unless there is a fertility problem with a particular mouse, you can
expect it to conceive within a week of the male and female being placed
together. The female comes on heat approximately every 4-5 days, usually
overnight. The gestation period is 17-21 days, although mine have all taken
20 or 21 days. You cannot normally tell that a mouse is pregnant until the
last week of her term, when her belly starts to bulge.
When introducing the male and female, she should always be put
into *his* cage, and not the other way around - female mice can be very
aggressive to males who pester them, and even more so if the female is in her
own territory. AK.
6.2 Should you remove the father before the birth?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yes, normally - but it is a myth that male mice eat their babies if left
with the mother. If the father is left with his family
(continuously - he has to be there through at least some of the pregnancy and
birth to accept the babies as his own) he will be an *excellent* father and will
take on a large part of the childcare. However, he will also mate with the
female immediately after she has given birth, and females bred continually
in this fashion are likely to become exhausted and to produce weaker
babies than those whose families are paced. So it is better to separate the
parents before birth, and to allow the mother 4 weeks to suckle her babies
plus another 2-4 weeks to rest before putting her with the male again.
The problem of what to do with the father is one you should think about
seriously before breeding mice. As mentioned above, unless you have him
neutered he will not be able to live with other male mice - but if you keep
him alone he could have a very boring life. If the female is getting adequate
rest between litters then he will only have her company for two weeks out of
every 10 or so. So unless you have several females to live with him in turn,
he will be alone most of the time. This is quite serious for a mouse, so
think through it thoroughly before buying a male to breed from. Alternatively,
you might be able to find someone who has a male mouse which already lives
alone, or one which is regularly used for stud, who would let your female
stay with him for a week or so to mate. AK.
6.3 When can you breed from females?
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Female mice can breed from the age of five weeks onward -
but a female bred this young will probably have her growth stunted by the
experience, and may produce weak babies,
so it is better to wait until she is 3 or 4 months old and fully grown. AK.
6.4 What should I do when my mouse has a litter?
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As soon as she starts to look pregnant, make sure she is in a suitable cage.
It must have a secure nesting area which is free from drafts and preferably
enclosed - the darker it is inside the nestbox, the better.
When she has the litter you may hear squeaking. It is safest to avoid
disturbing her until the babies are 3 or 4 days old. Provide plenty of food,
perhaps some bread soaked in skimmed milk, lots of bedding, and keep her
somewhere quiet. AK
6.5 My mouse ate her babies - what happened?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If a mouse is going to eat her babies, she will normally do so within the first
three days. After that they should be safe, but occasionally it can happen
later. Litters are sometimes eaten for the following reasons:
- the water or food supply in the cage ran out
- it was the mouse's first litter, and she didn't know what they were, or got
carried away eating the placentas and mistakenly ate the babies too.
- the babies were born dead, or died soon after birth, or were weak or ill
- the mother was disturbed or felt insecure
Generally eating a first litter does not mean that the mouse will eat later
litters. But if she eats her second litter, it is best not to try again; if
she does eventually manage to rear a daughter, she may well pass on her habit.
AK
6.6 How do the babies develop?
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They are born looking like frozen prawns, in a very underdeveloped state. They
are hairless, blind and deaf. Usually they are pink, but some dark varieties
show pigment at birth. Over the next 3 days pigment cells come to the surface
of the skin and amrkings become visible. Hair starts to grow at about 1 week.
The babies start moving around more, and nibbling solid food, and opening
their eyes, from about 10 days. Soon after this they enter the 'flea' stage
when they are very hard to handle - they literally jump like fleas. Be very
careful if you handle them at all between 10 days and 3 1/2 weeks of age.
Between 3 and 4 weeks of age they calm down. At 4 weeks they should be fully
weaned from the mother's milk. At 5 weeks, males and females should be
separated and they are ready to go to new homes. AK
===============================================================================================
7. HEALTH PROBLEMS AND VETERINARY CARE
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
7.1 Is it really worth taking my pet mouse to the vet?
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Yes! Firstly, if a mouse is suffering then its owner is just as beholden to
deal with that suffering as she would be for a dog or cat. Mice feel their
pain just as intensely. Dealing with suffering does not have to involve
veterinary care, however; if you do not feel able to treat the mouse
yourself and do not want to take it to the vet, then it should be humanely
euthanized. Just don't let it suffer hoping that the problem will solve
itself. Secondly, a good vet can cure a lot of mouse problems, and it need
not cost a fortune; phone around to get quotes.
7.2 Is it possible to operate on mice?
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Yes - laboratories do it all the time, so there's no reason why vets can't.
If the vet uses Isoflourane anaesthesia then even complex operations are
possible (Isoflourane is the safest anaesthetic to use on small mammals).
For example, a friend of mine recently had a caesarian section and hysterectomy
performed on a mouse which got into difficulties in labour. But most
operations needed by pet mice are quite simple; I recently had a tumour
removed from a mouse, and see Ted Parsons and Susan Randlett's experiences
with neutering above.
7.3 Won't treatment be stressful for my mouse?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Maybe - it depends how old it is, and how complex the operation. Neutering
is thought to be a very simple procedure and the mouse need not experience
much discomfort. My mouse was uncomfortable after her tumour removal for a
couple of days, so-so for another couple, and perfectly happy after a week.
That week of discomfort will give her another 3 months of life at least -
quite a lot from a mouse's point of view. Problems may occur if your mouse
tries to remove its stitches or opens a wound - talk to your vet about this,
but remember that mice heal quickly.
Giving oral medication can be stressful for mice as well. If medicine has
to be given directly into the mouth, the mice may struggle and squeak.
If you cannot see a course of treatment through, or if your
mice find it too distressing, then you should consider euthanization if they
are suffering. Angela King
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
8. REFERENCE SECTION: MOUSE CLUBS, MOUSE BOOKS ETC.
----------------------------------------------------
8.1 Are there any mouse clubs in my area?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Maybe - here's a list of some. Their priorities vary, from existing to promote
the mouse fancy (ie breeding for exhibition) to providing information for
pet owners. The RMCA info below was provided by Mary-Ann Isaaksen, and the
list of other societies extracted from a list kept by Jazmyn Concolor.
RMCA
The Rat and Mouse Club of America (RMCA) is a non-profit national
organization which is dedicated to quality care for domestic rats and mice.
The primary goal of the RMCA is the dissemination of high-quality and
important information about the proper care of all domestic rats and mice as
a means to advocate responsible pet ownership and breeding. The secondary
goal of the RMCA is the promotion of the rat and mouse fancy as a worthwhile,
serious, and enjoyable hobby for domestic rat and mouse enthusiasts of all
ages. These goals are reached through the RMCA’s official publication The Rat
and Mouse Gazette, a high-quality publication with a nationwide readership.
This bimonthly publication is not only a means of distributing important care
information, but also serves as a communication vehicle for pet keepers,
breeders, fanciers, the regional associations they represent, and the pet
industry.
SUBSCRIPTION RATES: US and Canada $10 – 6 months; $20 – 1 year; Overseas
$15 – 6 months; $30 – 1 year. In addition to the bimonthly magazine,
subscribers also receive membership in the Rat and Mouse Club of America, and
will receive RMCA’s Rules and Standards booklet, Yearbook (1996), and
membership card. One each of the above will be mailed to each household,
except that each member receives his/her own membership card. There will be a
price increase effective March 01, 1996. Prices will be going up $5 per year.
MEMBERS are encouraged to contribute to The Rat and Mouse Gazette through
submissions of articles, stories, questions, photos, artwork, or any other
items of interest pertaining to rats and mice.
Southern California Shows (open to the public) will be held under the
patronage of the RMCA. Members are encouraged to form Chapters of RMCA and
hold Shows in other areas.
Rat & Mouse Club of America
13075 Springdale Street #302
Westminster, CA 92683
(714) 892-7523 Mary-Ann Isaaksen
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American Rat Mouse and Hamster Society
J. Penny
740 Begonia Street
Escondido, CA 92027 USA
National Mouse Club Rare Varieties Support Group (mice)
Rodney and Linda Wilson (Secretaries) c/o Mr. Dave Bumford, Sec, RVSP
29 Manor Close 15 Rossall Drive
Tunstead, Norwich Fulwood, Preston, Lancs PR2 3SL ENGLAND
Norfolk NR12 8EP UK Tel: 01603 737044
(NOTE FROM AK: The NMC is purely a fanciers' organisation, dedicated to those
who breed mice for showing. It is not aimed at pet keepers.)
American Fancy Rat and Mouse Assoc. Rat Mouse and Hamster Fanciers
K. Robbins J. Langdell
9230-64th Street 1756-14th Ave
Riverside, CA 92509 USA San Francisco, CA 94122 USA
Membership: $25.00 (individual or family)
Publication: Rat & Mouse Tales
The American Rat, Mouse and Hamster Society Ratatouille
c/o Sandy Ramey Bootsmansstraat 12bnl
9370 Adlai Road 3025 NP ROTTERDAM
Lakeside, CA 92040 Holland
Svenska Musklubben (Swedish Mouseclub)
Grodan Elleby
Lilla Vikv.
S-13675 Handen
Sweden
Mouse and Rat Breeders' Assoc. Northeast Rat and Mouse Club
S. Brown c/o Diana Potter, Pres.
127 Stockbridge Lane 20 Oak Lane
Ojai, CA 93023 USA Sterling, VA 20165 USA(703) 430-4063
Membership: $20.00
Extracted from list kept by Jazmyn Concolor.
8.1 Are there any mouse sites on the WWW?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
A few - there are lots of scientific pages featuring mice, but mostly in
the context of experiments I think. Here ae some others:
Electronic Zoo/NetVet - Rodents
http://netvet.wustl.edu/rodents.htm
Scientific page featuring rodent illnesses, with a mouse section.
RMCA web page: (rm...@aol.com)
http://www.rmca.org
8.2 What books are available on keeping pet mice?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are quite a few books available (mainly published by TFH) which _claim_
to be about keeping mice as pets, but most seem to focus on the hobby of
exhibiting fancy mice which is quite a different thing. I have noticed that
the information on healthcare and ailments in books about pet rodents is
often grossly inaccurate; the authors do not seem to bother to get a
vet to check their opinions! Remember that there is no substitute for taking
your mice to see a veterinary surgeon who has experience with small mammals.
On no account rely on the advice given in books without checking it with
a vet first. Here are details of some of the better books:
Mice: A complete pet owner's manual, by Horst Bielfeld. Pub. Barron's,
ISBN 0-120-2921-6.
Only a few photographs and very little about fancy mice - he seems a bit
confused about mouse colours & implies that white mice are a different
breed from coloured mice, which is rubbish. Other than that, a very good
book to have - this author has thought about what mice need to make them
happy. Great section about keeping mice in a 'mouse condo'.
Keeping fancy mice, by Chris Henwood. Pub tfh.
Lots of nice photos and some sound advice, but the focus of this book is
breeding fancy mice for exhibition.
Angela King
Judy Trummer
Considering that there is next to no decent information available on mice,
I'd be just as glad to rename it "the little book of mice" rather than the
mouse faq and leave all the info in :). Or perhaps make a smaller version
for the 'faq' and let the larger file be available to ftp somewhere if you
want it? I am loath to give up any precious mouse-related tidbits...
(Okay, so I particularly want the part where I get credited to stay.. even if
my name *is* spelled wrong :P )
Judy