Safe Paint
tri...@io.org
I'm making a waterfall for my water dragon enclosure. I'm using a
fluval water filter for the waterfall, and I'm using silicone
(aquarium safe!) to glue the rocks in place to make it look fairly
natural. I was wondering, Some of the silicone is bound to show
between the rocks, is there any kind of paint that I can use to cover
the silicone with to make it look even more natural?
So I need a non-toxic waterproof paint that will adhere to
silicone. Any such thing??
Just wondering!! :)
Tricia
email tri...@io.org
Toronto, Ontario. Herps= 2 Chinese Water dragons
Mark Garvin
>...is there any kind of paint that I can use to cover
>the silicone with to make it look even more natural?
>...
> So I need a non-toxic waterproof paint that will adhere to
>silicone. Any such thing??
Hi Tricia, Questions about paint toxicity come up often enough that
it should be addressed here.
I was originally going to mention acrylic artist color, since it is an
emulsion. In other words, it's already 'cured' or pre-polymerized.
The paint is basically like little beads of plastic floating in a water-
soluble base.
As such, it seems that it should be safer than some other alkyd, or
urethane, or solvent-based paints. But I don't feel comfortable
recommending it, since I haven't personally eaten enough yet to be
sure it's safe <g>. (I've found myself absent-mindedly holding
brushes in my mouth as I'm painting)
So I decided to post to see if anyone has any feedback on this
type of acrylic paint. Not to be confused with Krylon, which is
solvent-based acrylic. I'm talking about Grumbacher or Windsor-Newton-
type artists' colors in tubes.
The other thing that occurred to me is that some PIGMENTS are
poisonous. Conceivably they could be safely 'sealed' inside
the polymerized globes of acrylic. But I can't call this one,
either. Still, if given a choice I'd feel safer eating acrylic
artists' paint with toxic pigment than other types, cause it
is probably rendered inert.
Regarding pigment toxicity:
More likely to be toxic are the brighter red and yellow pigments,
which are frequently cadmium-based (heavy metals are not good).
You already know about hazards of lead, which is still used
(very infrequently) in white paints.
Less likely to be harmful are 'earth-pigments' which are literally
that: colored earth. Includes most low-chroma colors, such as
siennas, umbers, indian red, ochres, etc. And Mars colors which are
usually earth.
I'm not sure about titanium or common whites. I believe that ultramarine
blue and many of the synthetic colors are relatively inert, but that
would vary from one pigment to the next.
Acrylic artists' paints dry quickly if kept thin. You should wash off
any possible remnants of binders, though I doubt there would be much.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Again, I want to emphasize that I'm not recommending these. But I
thought it might start the discussion on the right foot.
I'd also like to add that some solvent-based paints can continue to 'outgas'
for a long while. If you paint cages with any kind of paint, it may be
best to:
1 let the paint dry thoroughly
2 wait an extra day or two
3 PUT THE CAGE'S HEATERS AND LIGHTS ON and wait another day or two.
This last precaution should help to dissipate remaining solvents
which may otherwise be released when the cage heats up.
By the way, most artists that use oil know that an oil painting is not
truly dry for a full year sometimes. You don't put final finishes on
for a long while after.
Also interesting...I've heard that VanGogh (among other wierd habits)
frequently put wet OIL-BASED brushes in his mouth. Oils are unpolymerized,
and pigments are still reactive. In Vincent's day there were a fine
array of toxins: arsenic, lead and cadmium among them. There is some
speculation that cumulative heavy metals may have been at least part of
his health and mental problem.
If you catch your lizard wearing a beret, use a different type of paint.
Regards,
Mark Garvin
PS: I could have thought of something funnier if they had ears.
Colin Wilson
>In <461320$3...@ionews.io.org> tri...@io.org writes:
>>...is there any kind of paint that I can use to cover
>>the silicone with to make it look even more natural?
>>...
>> So I need a non-toxic waterproof paint that will adhere to
>>silicone. Any such thing??
<toxicity bits deleted>
I think it will be difficult, if not impossible to meet the "adhere to
silicone" requirement. It's a very difficult surface.
May I suggest an alternate strategy of waiting until the sealant dries and
then cutting off any bits that show with a razor blade.
Another strategy, if you have need to push the stuff around while it's
wet, get your finger wet and soapy (rub it on bar of soap) and then the
uncured silicone won't stick to your skin. The solvents aren't good for
your skin, but I figure if it's not sticking it is relatively safe. You
can always wear gloves, but they seem to be more prone to sticking than
skin and I always end up just making a big mess.
A third strategy would be to just put some sand or dust on the silicone
before it dries, thus coating it with a "natural" surface. The unstuck
stuff will just fall/wash off.
Colin
Gary Harris
>In <461320$3...@ionews.io.org> tri...@io.org writes:
>>...is there any kind of paint that I can use to cover
>>the silicone with to make it look even more natural?
>>...
>> So I need a non-toxic waterproof paint that will adhere to
>>silicone. Any such thing??
>Hi Tricia, Questions about paint toxicity come up often enough that
>it should be addressed here.
>Regards,
>Mark Garvin
>PS: I could have thought of something funnier if they had ears.
How about just using colored caulking? I have helped my dad do
installation of these mega fancy bathtubs ($1179 for a tub anyone?
$349 for a faucet? sheesh!) and we had to use colored caulking to
match the tub to seal it, and it came in many colors. Maybe that
would be a consideration? I've never seen it run or 'leak' color so
it shouldn't get into the water?
Any ideas on this approach?
Gary
Jeff Spencer
>before it dries, thus coating it with a "natural" surface. The unstuck
>stuff will just fall/wash off.
>
This is the only thing I would recomend. Once silicon has cured it is
very strong, and nothing will adhere to it well.
Silicon is a great glue for cages. Holds wood together, glue rocks to glass
etc...
Jeff Spencer
But for a cage you only want to use 100% silicon
most colored caulks are filled with mildew resistant stuff, and other
garbage...
cbr...@pophost.eunet.be
Suggest you try one of the pigmented varieties. You can get some which
blend well with masonary and hence I presume rock. There are also
transparent grades.