Taking Care of Really Young Kittens
Jocelyn JD
parents for the humane society and she asked us to take over their foster
parenting duties. Their charge is a 3-week old kitten named Annie.
Annie lost her mother when she was only a few days old and she is the
onlysurviving member of her litter. She has a few litterbox issues, she
criesconstantly and she does not know how to give or receive love. She is
becoming better socialized, however my SO and I will still have work to do.
She has bonded with one of their other cats, so at least she seems to know
how to relate to her own kind. The other troubling aspect that she eats all
the time and does appear to get any bigger. Is that normal for young
kittens?
Annie will probably move into our household Wednesday or Thursday. Any
suggestions or preparations that would help ease her transition? Should we
get kitten formula? When should we introduce her to the others? We are
thinking she needs her own bed with a warm water bottle, canned cat food,
and a small litterbox that will not intimidate her. We never had a kitten
this young before.
About our current household (wanted to give this information to see if there
are any issues): Viola is 1.5 years old and she is the matriarch. She
hisses and tests newcomers, but had never hurt anyone. Chester, "the
benevolent babysitter," is 1 year old, and very laid back. He was a very
good babysitter for Dmitri and for another older foster kitten. He watched
them play and would break it up if someone started crying. Dmitri, the
youngest, is 8 months old and he just wants to play. When we had a foster
kitten for a week (she was 3 months old), they became very good friends and
he sometimes cries and looks for her. However, he weighs 11 pounds now, and
we are afraid he might try to play too rough with the newcomer.
Anything you can offer would be helpful.
Thanks,
Jocelyn
Gail Gunberg
and a litter box. I would use a baking pan because it has shallow sides and the
kitten can get into it easily. If she is eating OK, I would provide small amount
of high quality kitten food many times during the day. She may be too young for
dry food. If she can eat the dry food (in addition to the canned), I would leave
a plate out all of the time. The kitten may have parasites and will have to be
checked by a vet (if she is not gaining weight this may be why). Gradually and
only under close supervision can you let the other cats be with her. She is very
young and tiny and must be protected. Also, she should be vet checked to make
sure she has no diseases that the others can catch (when they are finally
exposed to her). Sit quietly with her when she eats. Engage her in interactive
play. In time, she will be terrific!!
Gail
Phil P.
>
> My friend is moving to Ashland this Friday. She and her husband are foster
> parents for the humane society and she asked us to take over their foster
> parenting duties. Their charge is a 3-week old kitten named Annie.
>
> Annie lost her mother when she was only a few days old and she is the
> onlysurviving member of her litter. She has a few litterbox issues, she
> criesconstantly and she does not know how to give or receive love. She is
> becoming better socialized, however my SO and I will still have work to do.
> She has bonded with one of their other cats, so at least she seems to know
> how to relate to her own kind. The other troubling aspect that she eats all
> the time and does appear to get any bigger. Is that normal for young
> kittens?
A kitten her age should be fed 4-6 times a day or more because her
stomach is simply too small for her caloric requirement for the day -
her caloric intake is limited by the small size of her stomach.
Healthy kittens gain about 15 to 30 g/day. Less weight gainn than
this could be a sign of a problem. She should gain weight steadily
and weigh about 350 to 450 g at 4 weeks and about 800 to 900 g by 8
weeks.
Since you'll probably be fostering more kittens in the future, you
want to think about getting a good pediatric scale such as the Tanita
1583. This scale is particularly well suited for kittens (as well as
all cats) because its graduated in 10 g increments. Here's the URL
http://tanitascale.com/pro_scales/1583.html
I think Megan found the same scale for less money. I hope she posts
the URL.
>
> Annie will probably move into our household Wednesday or Thursday. Any
> suggestions or preparations that would help ease her transition? Should we
> get kitten formula?
At 3-4 weeks old, she can begin eating solid food. High-quality
canned kitten food is much better for a kitten her age because she is
not yet able to make rapid and precise changes in water intake on her
own in response to her state of hydration - kittens can dehydrate
*very* easily and quickly. Caloric requirements for young kittens are
about 420 kcal/kg body weight but this requirement decreases gradually
to about 240 to 275 kcal/kg body weight by 5 to 6 weeks.
> When should we introduce her to the others?
Socialization begins around 3 weeks and continues to about 3 months.
In this time she'll develop behavior patterns with other animals and
humans that last for the rest of her life. Its important for her to
have exposure to different environments, animals, and people during
the first 3 to 13 weeks (especially 3 to 8 weeks) in order for her to
develop normal social behavior that will also make her easier to
adopt. One of the main reasons for our high adoption rate and *very*
low return rate is because our kittens and cats highly socialized with
other cats, dogs and humans.
We are
> thinking she needs her own bed with a warm water bottle, canned cat food,
> and a small litterbox that will not intimidate her. We never had a kitten
> this young before.
Warmth (90*F-95*F)is essential for young orphaned kittens for the
first two weeks or so, but for the third week, the environmental
temperature should be about 75*F-80*F. Instead of a hot water bottle,
you can hang a 60W bulb 2 1/2' - 3'- but no closer - over her. By the
fourth week, her body temperature should be close to an adult's and
normal room temperature (72*F) should be fine.
>
> About our current household (wanted to give this information to see if there
> are any issues): Viola is 1.5 years old and she is the matriarch. She
> hisses and tests newcomers, but had never hurt anyone. Chester, "the
> benevolent babysitter," is 1 year old, and very laid back. He was a very
> good babysitter for Dmitri and for another older foster kitten. He watched
> them play and would break it up if someone started crying. Dmitri, the
> youngest, is 8 months old and he just wants to play. When we had a foster
> kitten for a week (she was 3 months old), they became very good friends and
> he sometimes cries and looks for her. However, he weighs 11 pounds now, and
> we are afraid he might try to play too rough with the newcomer.
For the first few weeks after initial introduction, its a good idea
not to leave the kitten with the older cats unsupervised until she
learns how to scramble.
Here's some information about introductions:
http://maxshouse.com/behavior__training.htm#INTRODUCING NEW PETS TO
RESIDENT PETS
http://maxshouse.com/behavior__training.htm#Introducing a New Cat
>
> Anything you can offer would be helpful.
Please visit my site for more information.
http://maxshouse.com/cat_proofing_your_home.htm
http://maxshouse.com/kitten_care.htm
http://maxshouse.com/kitten_care.htm#Newborn Kittens
http://maxshouse.com/kitten_care.htm#Caring for Orphan Kittens
http://maxshouse.com/behavior__training.htm#Litter Training Your
Kitten
http://maxshouse.com/behavior__training.htm#Choosing a Litter Box
http://maxshouse.com/behavior__training.htm#Choosing Litter Filler
http://maxshouse.com/behavior__training.htm#Litter Box Location
You're in for a very rewarding experience!
Best of luck,
Phil
"A kitten, in the animal kingdom,
is like a rosebud in a garden"
Feline Healthcare: http://maxshouse.com
> Thanks,
>
> Jocelyn
Odette Brown
> My friend is moving to Ashland this Friday. She and her husband are foster
> parents for the humane society and she asked us to take over their foster
> parenting duties. Their charge is a 3-week old kitten named Annie.
>
> Annie lost her mother when she was only a few days old and she is the
> onlysurviving member of her litter. She has a few litterbox issues, she
> criesconstantly and she does not know how to give or receive love. She is
> becoming better socialized, however my SO and I will still have work to do.
> She has bonded with one of their other cats, so at least she seems to know
> how to relate to her own kind. The other troubling aspect that she eats all
> the time and does appear to get any bigger. Is that normal for young
> kittens?
>
> suggestions or preparations that would help ease her transition? Should we
> thinking she needs her own bed with a warm water bottle, canned cat food,
> and a small litterbox that will not intimidate her. We never had a kitten
> this young before.
>
> are any issues): Viola is 1.5 years old and she is the matriarch. She
> hisses and tests newcomers, but had never hurt anyone. Chester, "the
> benevolent babysitter," is 1 year old, and very laid back. He was a very
> good babysitter for Dmitri and for another older foster kitten. He watched
> them play and would break it up if someone started crying. Dmitri, the
> youngest, is 8 months old and he just wants to play. When we had a foster
> kitten for a week (she was 3 months old), they became very good friends and
> he sometimes cries and looks for her. However, he weighs 11 pounds now, and
> we are afraid he might try to play too rough with the newcomer.
>
>
>
> Jocelyn
>
>
Please read info below.
ob.
1. Determine the Kitten's Condition
Any kitten, even if it seems fine, should be seen by your vet as soon as possible. Take a fresh stool sample with you, so the vet
may check for intestinal parasites. If a fecal cannot be done by the time of the appointment, take a stool sample as soon as you
can. Remove as many fleas as you safely can (with a comb for newborns; do not bathe, spray or powder a kitten before it is
six weeks old).
If the kitten is lethargic or cool to the touch, you may have a life-threatening emergency (such as exposure or distemper). Get
the kitten on a heating pad or other primary heat source (see item 2) and get it to a veterinarian right away or consult an
emergency veterinary clinic. Do NOT feed a chilled newborn -- you will kill it. Instead, administer slightly warmed Pedialyte
(an infant rehydrating fluid, available in any grocery or pharmacy), using an animal nurser, syringe, or dropper. (You can greatly
extend the life of the Pedialyte by freezing it as ice cubes, bagging the cubes and storing them in your freezer, by the way.)
Feed the kitten only when it is warmed and indicates it is hungry.
If the kitten seems over-warm and/or is breathing rapidly, it may be feverish or suffering from heat exhaustion or worse.
Contact your vet or an emergency veterinary clinic immediately for advice if you can. To help lower the kitten's body
temperature, try wiping it down with a cool, damp cloth; then administer Pedialyte. Get the kitten to a veterinarian as soon as
possible.
If the kitten is active and screaming lustily for its mother, go quickly to item 2; you will find that a heating pad will help calm the
kitten while you prepare its first meal.
2. Make the Kitten Comfortable and Warm
Empty the Bladder
Newborns cannot evacuate their bowel or bladder unassisted. The kitten you have found may be in excruciating pain or in
danger of going toxic from having to retain its own body waste. You should help the kitten at least empty its bladder before
proceeding with warming or feeding or even the trip to the veterinarian. With the kitten on a towel in your lap, lightly rub the
kitten's body with a rough, dry washcloth. (At that point, the kitten may roll over or otherwise present its bottom to you.) With
a generous handful of soft tissue (also to be kept handy at all times) gently stroke the kitten's behind, keeping the tissue in
contact. The kitten should oblige by urinating a rather amazing amount. Simply rotate the tissue until kitten stops urinating or the
tissue is soaked, whichever comes first. (Did I mention to keep a waste bag handy for this procedure?)
Another method to stimulate evacuation is to use a tissue or wash cloth moistened with warm water instead of a dry cloth or to
apply a moistened Q-tip (hold the kitten over a sink or a folded towel if you use the latter method).
Warm the kitten
A newborn kitten is not capable of generating or maintaining body warmth and must depend on its mother (and now you) to
sustain warmth and life. Keeping a newborn orphan warm (even on a warm day) is a priority, more important initially than
feeding (do NOT feed a chilled kitten, by the way -- you will kill it). Bundling up the kitten will do no good; it has no body heat
of its own to retain. And putting the kitten near a space heater or other heating element is neither sufficient for the long-term nor
safe. Wrap a heating pad, set on low, in a towel or flannel and place it in or beneath the nesting box, leaving room for the kitten
to crawl off the heated area as needed. (Emergency, short-term measures: If you don't have a heating pad, put the kitten on a
wrapped hot water bottle or snugged against a tightly sealed and well stabilized jar of warm water. Better yet, put the kitten
next to your body -- next to the skin if possible. Then go out and borrow or buy that heating pad after the first feeding or take
the kitten to the vet immediately if its condition is poor or questionable.)
The Den
Newborns should be shielded from direct light and contained in their den until they are at least three weeks old. Remember to
try to provide the kitten an area in the den where it can crawl off the heating pad if it gets overheated. A small airline-style
carrier doubles very well as a den and a taxi, though the kitten will soon outgrow it. A pair of large nested boxes is a good den,
as long as the kitten cannot crawl out. If you are fostering a single kitten, provide a surrogate sibling in the form of a small
stuffed toy or bundled sock.
3. Prepare the Feeding
The Formula
There are several good milk replacers on the market, available in liquid or powder form (my personal favorite is called Just
Born). The ready-mix liquid is more convenient. Be sure the product is engineered for kittens and that it is fresh (some have a
short shelf-life). Milk replacers can be found in any pet supplies store, most veterinary clinics, and even in some variety stores.
In an emergency or for the short-term, you can make up your own formula from tinned or powdered goat's milk (see below).
If the kitten seems weak or ill and you cannot get to a veterinarian right away, you should administer slightly warmed Pedialyte
before offering the milk replacer.
The Nurser
While you are purchasing the milk replacer, find a good nurser. Most of these look like a baby bottle in miniature; I prefer the
model with a pointy nipple. Pierce the nipple with a large-gauge needle (heated over a match) or ask the veterinarian to
prepare the nurser for you. The nipple is constructed of tough stuff and is difficult to pierce; whatever you do do NOT cut the
nipple with a knife or household scissors, however tempted you may be -- you may kill the kitten if you make the hole too
large and flood its lungs. If you must resort to cutting, use a cuticle scissor and snip ever so delicately, then test (the flow should
be a very thin stream) before offering the bottle to the kitten. If you did it wrong and made the hole too big, go out and buy
another bottle or replacer nipple.
Other possible nursers are a 6-cc syringe or the kind of squeeze bottle used to dispense droplet medication (ask your
veterinarian or pharmacist). These do present some risk, as the formula must be forced into the kitten's mouth, again increasing
the risk of flooding the lungs. Last choice is a dropper, the slowest of the slow, but better than nothing until you go out and buy
a nurser.
The Feeding
Heat the formula (in hot water) until it is comfortably warm. Test a stream on the inside of your wrist, first shaking the bottle to
even out the temperature. Within easy reach, set a rough washcloth, paper towel, and a box of tissue. Also keep a cup of hot
water nearby (but not where it could tip onto the kitten) to warm the nurser as needed. Then lay an old towel, the fluffier the
better, across your lap. Hold the kitten belly-down, steadying and guiding the head to the nipple with the same hand that is
holding the bottle. (This is just my technique; you may find another that works best for you.) Try to center the nipple in the
kitten's mouth, over the tongue, and apply just enough pressure on the nurser to bead out a bit of formula on the nipple. If this
is not enough to induce the kitten to begin suckling, squeeze a tiny bit into its mouth and wait for it to swallow before (gently!)
squeezing again. This can be even trickier than it sounds, particularly if the kitten is desperately hungry. Convincing a frenzied
kitten to slow down and suckle is no easy task. Another kitten may be put off by the strangeness of the offering and so will
resist feeding or may be too weak to take the nipple immediately. Be patient and calm and persistent, applying careful pressure
on the nurser to keep the formula coming at a natural rate without squirting it down the kitten's throat. Watch the ears: If they
start to bob, the kitten is getting just the right amount of formula. If formula bubbles out the nostrils, pull back immediately --
you are drowning the kitten.
Do not overfeed, especially at the first meal. A series of small meals is better than one large one. And don't go crazy trying to
follow the complicated instructions on the formula container. Feed the kitten until it settles down and its tummy is full but not
distended, then gently remove the nipple and rub the kitten gently but briskly all over with your hand or that rough dry
washcloth. (Remember, you are a momcat now; your baby needs the stimulation provided by that tough-love tongue all mother
cats have.) If the kitten doesn't immediately begin to complain and nuzzle for more milk, it is fed. Continue rubbing or patting
until you get a burp. If you don't get a burp right away, try putting the kitten over your shoulder like any other baby and patting
it gently on the side or back. Then return it to the heating pad for about 15 minutes before going to the next step. (Or to the
next kitten, if you are caring for a litter.)
A special note on suckling. The suckling instinct in very strong in these little guys, and they are likely to suckle on another. This
behavior can be lethal to a male kitten if the genitals are suckled, causing swelling and impaction of the urinary tract. You may
need to separate kittens from one another, or at least separate the aggressive suckler. The single kitten should be provided a
surrogate momcat or sibling in the person of a soft plush toy that can be snuggled and suckled. Keep the surrogate "mom" and
the kitten's bedding clean but chemical-free, for safe suckling.
Frequency of feedings
Feed a newborn at least every four hours or on demand. Do not overfeed. Be prepared to do night feedings.
A note on tube-feeding. The feeding process can be greatly speeded up by feeding per catheter directly to the stomach.
Consult with your veterinarian and insist on a training session before attempting to tube-feed, incorrect insertion of the catheter
could flood the kitten's lungs. I do not recommend tube-feeding on a daily basis; kittens need nurturing, physical contact in
order to thrive almost as much as they need nourishment. If you do tube-feed, handle the kittens. Put them in a sling or fanny
pack and wear them around the house (I use a kitten snuggly made by a friend).
4. More on Emptying the Bowel and Bladder
I recommend emptying the kitten both immediately before and about 15 minutes following each feeding. With any luck, you
have already emptied the bladder. Evacuation of the bowel will probably not happen at the first attempt and may take a day or
two. When it does happen, don't be horrified at the toothpaste consistency and mustard color -- this is normal for a newborn.
(A grayish stool is cause for concern, however; call the vet at once.) Once bowel movements have begun, you should see a
movement for every feeding.
Diarrhea
Kittens dehydrate quickly, so feed carefully to prevent diarrhea. Do not over-feed and do not make sudden or radical changes
to the kitten's diet. If diarrhea (or constipation) develops, consult your veterinarian for adjustment of the formula or feeding
portion. If the stool is liquid or bloody or contains mucous, consult your vet or make an appointment.
5. Maintenance
Weigh the kitten on the first day and re-weigh and record the kitten's weight at least every other day. Use a postage scale or
food scale or baby scale (the bathroom scale is not going to cut it). Observe the kitten's daily progress closely. if there is failure
to thrive, weight loss, signs of distress, lassitude, or change in body temperature, consult your veterinarian at once. Be alert for
changes in behavior; if a newborn kitten persistently crawls away from the nest or (in the case of a litter) seems always to be
on its own, consult your veterinarian at once.
Toddlers
A kitten's eyes are generally fully open by ten days old (they begin to open at seven days). By three or four weeks a kitten is
mobile and able to eat at least some solid food. The kitten is also ready for the litterpan as soon as it can toddle to it. (I
recommend introduction to the litterpan by three weeks with expectation of seeing some independent use of the pan by four
weeks.)
Den and Living Space
Toddlers should be encouraged to play and extend themselves, but they must be contained in a safe, small room. Do not give
small kittens the run of your home or apartment, particularly if they are in the process of being socialized! Start newborns with
the denning box, then at about three weeks allow them out of the box to explore a small, kitten-proofed room that is warm and
secure. A spare bedroom is a good living space, a bathroom is fine, as long as the lid is left down on the toilet and floor isn't
too cold (newspaper is a good insulator if that is the case). Provide a den (the carrier or nesting box) as safe haven and
sleeping place.
Solid Food
By four weeks old or a bit sooner, your kitten can be introduced to solid food. Start with a slightly warmed moosh of formula
mixed with strained meat babyfood (chicken or turkey) and formula, offered on a saucer or small plate. (There is a transitional
cereal offered by Just Born you can mix into the mess as well.) Be sure not to overheat the stuff in the microwave -- only a few
seconds is all it needs, and be sure to mix it thoroughly with your finger so that you get all the hot spots. You may have to put a
bit of food on the kitten's nose or in its mouth to get it going, using your finger or a plastic spoon. Within the week, add a
good-quality kitten chow (I prefer Iams), softened in warm water, while phasing out the formula, both by nurser or in the solid
food (moisten with water, as necessary). By the time the kitten is six weeks old, it should be scarfing down straight kitten chow
and drinking water on its own. Wean gently and gradually though; you don't want a thumb-sucker on your hands.
The Water Dish
By four or five weeks, the kitten should be taking water on its own as well as food. Provide a low, heavy dish, so the kitten
can walk in it, dip its paws and otherwise perform the scientific experiments typical of all felines. If you can, place the dish in a
corner or other low-traffic area and handy but not too close to the food dish. You may need to help the kitten by providing it
with an opaque rather than a clear dish and by wetting its nose with your finger and leading it down to water level. Given the
kitten has been lapping up its moosh-meals for a while by now, drinking water shouldn't be too great an adjustment.
Litterpan
Kittens are like any other toddler; they play too hard and too long and then desperately need to relieve themselves, so be sure
a litterpan (or litterpans, in a larger room) is handly at all times. Start with a pan small enough and low enough for a toddler to
get into (and out again) with no trouble; a good starter pan is the cut-down box used in pet food stores for display of small tins.
Very little training is necessary. Put the kitten into the litterpan 15 minutes or so after a meal, perhaps stimulating it by guiding
its paws into a digging motion. If the kitten hops right out, put it right back in again, at least for a time or two. That and the
occasional remainder is all you should have to do. If there is an accident, put the feces in the litterpan to help redirect the kitten.
Use newspaper rather than plastic on the floor. And do NOT use clumping litter for a young kitten! Kittens are likely to eat
litter, and the clumping stuff can block the intestine. I recommend a pellet-style litter until the kitten is at least eight weeks old,
and even then watch to be sure the kitten is not eating the stuff. When the kitten is five or six weeks old, it is ready for a
full-size litterpan; simply provide a brick as a stepping stone if necessary (I wrap the brick in an old towel).
--
**** Odette Brown ** I love Cats *****
*** La Belle Province ** Quebec ** CANADA ***
*** http://www.igs.net/~rathey/odette1.htm ***
Sharon Talbert
The kitten should be seen by a vet, and pronto. Low to no growth is a
serous matter. Could simply be parasites that need tending to, could be a
heart problem, could be something as simple as a need to adjust diet. All
matters for a vet to decide upon.
Might also check my blurb on orphan care; see my website. But the vet is
the first stop at this time.
Sharon Talbert
www.campuscats.org