Differences between last two sets of FAQs
Thomas A. Baker
just posted, and the one before it. I generated it by running the
UNIX "diff(1)" command on each pair of files for each part of the
FAQ. Note that I used the flags "-btw" on the diff command. That
means that it then ignores the spaces and tabs and blanks and
formatting, and concentrates on the text.
Just before posting this, I combine the difference listings into
one file and then manually edit it for readability.
October 17, 1993: This 'diff' command generates more extra text
than I like, but I editted out the headers, at least. I believe
that a "+" in the first column means an addition, and there is a goodly
amount of new stuff about vitamin supplements in here with "+" before
it. I think "!" sometimes means a deletion , and sometimes means
something else. (I hope it's not too confusing.)
DIFFS FOR PART 1 OF THE FAQ
*** birds.current1 Fri Aug 20 22:50:18 1993
--- birds.new1 Sun Oct 17 13:41:33 1993
***************
*** 28,70 ****
! Comments, suggestions, chocolates to: Jodi Giannini(gian...@christos.umd.edu)
!
! doing the technical type stuff, Mary Firestone for her contribution of
! part 3 of the faq, Ken Hulme for the poicephalus faq, Tom Baker for archiving
! and the Appleworks version of this FAQ, Ruth D. Miller, Larry J. Brackney,
! Kate Finn, and all of the other rec.pet.bird readers who contributed--Thank
! you very much!
! Part 3 covers Birds and Lung Cancer
! The species-specific faqs cover the named species: Poicephalus...
! (we're hoping for more)
--- 20,59 ----
! Comments, suggestions, chocolates to: Jodi Giannini (gian...@nova.umd.edu)
! doing the technical type stuff, Tom Baker for archiving and the Appleworks
! version of this FAQ, Ruth D. Miller, Larry J. Brackney, Kate Finn, Kelly
! Flynn and all of the other rec.pet.bird readers who contributed--Thank you
! very much!
! Part 3 covers Birds and Lung Cancer.
! Species Specific Faq's cover the named species: Poicephalus.
***************
*** 155,175 ****
analysis to determine the sex of the bird. (See KARYOTYPING)
CITES--(C)onvention on (I)nternational (T)rade in (E)ndangered (S)pecies.
This body regulates trade of parrots throughout various countries.
Most parrots are on CITES Appendix 2, which means that the country
that is exporting the birds may only issue export permits if the
exportation of the bird does not endanger the survival of the species.
Extremely rare and threatened species go on Appendix I, which means
any sort of exportation is explicitly forbidden and illegal. Palm
Cockatoos and Hyacithine Macaws are an example of CITES Appendix I
! birds. Recent legislations is trying to ban importation completely.
CLOSED-BAND--a completely closed ring of metal that can only be put on a
bird within a certain time, usually from 8-10 days in a small bird and
up to four weeks in the larger species of birds. The bands
are usually imprinted with hatchdate and place of origin. They are
generally accepted as proof of domesticity and age. However, some
unscrupulous people may force a closed-band onto an imported bird. Look
for a band that seems too big.
COCK---Any male bird of a species.
--- 144,165 ----
analysis to determine the sex of the bird. (See KARYOTYPING)
CITES--(C)onvention on (I)nternational (T)rade in (E)ndangered (S)pecies.
This body regulates trade of parrots throughout various countries.
Most parrots are on CITES Appendix 2, which means that the country
that is exporting the birds may only issue export permits if the
exportation of the bird does not endanger the survival of the species.
Extremely rare and threatened species go on Appendix I, which means
any sort of exportation is explicitly forbidden and illegal. Palm
Cockatoos and Hyacithine Macaws are an example of CITES Appendix I
! birds. As of this last Faq update, importation of Amazon parrots
! has stopped completely (Appendix I status).
CLOSED-BAND--a completely closed ring of metal that can only be put on a
bird within a certain time, usually from 8-10 days in a small bird and
up to four weeks in the larger species of birds. The bands
are usually imprinted with hatchdate and place of origin. They are
generally accepted as proof of domesticity and age. However, some
unscrupulous people may force a closed-band onto an imported bird. Look
for a band that seems too big.
COCK---Any male bird of a species.
***************
*** 219,239 ****
infection of some sort. The virus can be spread through the feces and
feather dust and the virus can be found in the birds' crop as well. It
can affect several different species of birds, but is most common among
Cockatoos.
PSITTACOSIS--A curable bacterial disease that can affect BOTH humans and birds.
It's also called "Parrot Fever", "Chlamydiosis", and "Ornithosis".
Psittacosis is spread through inhalation of feather and fecal dust.
Bacterial tests can detect it. The disease manifests itself with
flu-like symptoms in people. Infected birds are quarantined (isolated)
! and treated with Tetracycline, a broad-spectrum antibiotic.
QUARANTINE--A period of isolation required for imported birds. These birds
are often given various medications to insure that they do not carry
Psittacosis or other contagious diseases. Also, it is a good idea
to isolate a sick bird from other pet birds or birds in an aviary.
SURGICAL SEXING--Also abbreviated as S.S. or S/S. Since many bird species
are monomorphic, one way to tell one bird from the other is to
do it surgically, using a method called laproscopy. The bird is
anesthetized, and a small slit cut into the bird's body. A tiny
--- 209,229 ----
infection of some sort. The virus can be spread through the feces and
feather dust and the virus can be found in the birds' crop as well. It
can affect several different species of birds, but is most common among
Cockatoos.
PSITTACOSIS--A curable bacterial disease that can affect BOTH humans and birds.
It's also called "Parrot Fever", "Chlamydiosis", and "Ornithosis".
Psittacosis is spread through inhalation of feather and fecal dust.
Bacterial tests can detect it. The disease manifests itself with
flu-like symptoms in people. Infected birds are quarantined (isolated)
! and treated with Tetracycline or another broad-spectrum antibiotic.
QUARANTINE--A period of isolation required for imported birds. These birds
are often given various medications to insure that they do not carry
Psittacosis or other contagious diseases. Also, it is a good idea
to isolate a sick bird from other pet birds or birds in an aviary.
SURGICAL SEXING--Also abbreviated as S.S. or S/S. Since many bird species
are monomorphic, one way to tell one bird from the other is to
do it surgically, using a method called laproscopy. The bird is
anesthetized, and a small slit cut into the bird's body. A tiny
***************
*** 280,300 ****
commit to that?! It's not unusual for birds to be passed down to another
generation. Don't buy a bird if you think you will quickly tire of it.
4. How noisy is the bird? Will the neighbors complain?
Budgies and Cockatiels are rather quiet. They are good for apartment dwellers.
A Moluccan Cockatoo could work in an apartment, as long as you have neighbors
on the sides and sixth floor that like to listen to head-splitting screams.
Aratinga conures are noted for their squawking--Sun Conures belong to this
genus. Pyrhurra conures (I have one) are rather quiet. Of course, there are
variations due to the personality of the bird. There may be a quiet Cockatoo
! somewhere.
5. How destructive is the bird?
Do you have priceless heirloom furniture? Rare books? Keep in mind that birds
have powerful beaks. Some birds are less prone to "chewing" than others.
6. Does the bird need a special diet?
Lories and Toucans, for example, require specialized diets. Do you have the
ways and means to provide it?
Once you you've done your research and decided what kind of bird you want,
--- 270,290 ----
commit to that?! It's not unusual for birds to be passed down to another
generation. Don't buy a bird if you think you will quickly tire of it.
4. How noisy is the bird? Will the neighbors complain?
Budgies and Cockatiels are rather quiet. They are good for apartment dwellers.
A Moluccan Cockatoo could work in an apartment, as long as you have neighbors
on the sides and sixth floor that like to listen to head-splitting screams.
Aratinga conures are noted for their squawking--Sun Conures belong to this
genus. Pyrhurra conures (I have one) are rather quiet. Of course, there are
variations due to the personality of the bird. There may be a quiet Cockatoo
! somewhere. If there is, someone should market it, they'd make a fortune.
5. How destructive is the bird?
Do you have priceless heirloom furniture? Rare books? Keep in mind that birds
have powerful beaks. Some birds are less prone to "chewing" than others.
6. Does the bird need a special diet?
Lories and Toucans, for example, require specialized diets. Do you have the
ways and means to provide it?
Once you you've done your research and decided what kind of bird you want,
***************
*** 306,334 ****
First off, you want to make certain you get a healthy, happy bird.
In general you want to look for:
1. An alert disposition. The bird should be interested in its environment.
It should be active. Avoid puffed-up and sleepy-looking birds.
2. Feathering: Make sure feathering is shiny and without bare patches.
On long-tailed species like Macaws, take a good look at the tail.
If there are thin lines running across tailfeathers, it's usually a good
indicator of poor nutrition. Please note that baby birds often look
! rather tatty, with the feathers somewhat frayed. This is normal.
3. Eyes: The eyes should be bright and clear. There should be no discharge.
There should be no swelling.
4. Nostrils should be clear of any blockages. They should be of the same
size and shape. In birds with bare facial patches (Macaws) the skin
should be clear and white. A flush of red sometimes indicates an
! infection of the sinus cavities.
5. Upper and lower parts of the beak (the mandibles) should meet cleanly,
with no signs of separation. In Cockatoos, the beak should be grayish,
covered with powder. Never buy an older Cockatoo with a shiny black beak.
is a sure indication that something is wrong. Baby Cockatoo beaks will
be somewhat shiny.
6. Feet should have all toes, although a missing toe or claw for a pet isn't
a bad thing. It is however, out of the question for a show bird.
More than one toe or claw gone will hamper the bird's perching ability.
--- 296,329 ----
First off, you want to make certain you get a healthy, happy bird.
In general you want to look for:
1. An alert disposition. The bird should be interested in its environment.
It should be active. Avoid puffed-up and sleepy-looking birds.
2. Feathering: Make sure feathering is shiny and without bare patches.
On long-tailed species like Macaws, take a good look at the tail.
If there are thin lines running across tailfeathers, it's usually a good
indicator of poor nutrition. Please note that baby birds often look
! rather tatty, with the feathers somewhat frayed. This is normal. Lutino
! Cockatiels will have a bald spot, which varies in size behind their
! crest. This is genetic and cannot be helped. Although do try to avoid
! 'tiels with extremely large bald patches.
3. Eyes: The eyes should be bright and clear. There should be no discharge.
There should be no swelling.
4. Nostrils should be clear of any blockages. They should be of the same
size and shape. In birds with bare facial patches (Macaws) the skin
should be clear and white. A flush of red sometimes indicates an
! infection of the sinus cavities. A scaly appearance of the cere (fleshy
! part around nostrils) indicates scaly face (common in Budgies) a disease
! caused by mites.
5. Upper and lower parts of the beak (the mandibles) should meet cleanly,
with no signs of separation. In Cockatoos, the beak should be grayish,
covered with powder. Never buy an older Cockatoo with a shiny black beak.
is a sure indication that something is wrong. Baby Cockatoo beaks will
be somewhat shiny.
6. Feet should have all toes, although a missing toe or claw for a pet isn't
a bad thing. It is however, out of the question for a show bird.
More than one toe or claw gone will hamper the bird's perching ability.
***************
*** 341,370 ****
allowed.
8. The bird should not be too skinny. To check for this, ask someone to
hold the bird while you feel along the sides of its keel (breast) bone. It
should be well fleshed out. If you can see the keel protruding,
the bird is obviously underweight, and might be suffering some illness.
9. While the person has the bird, have them turn it over and check the
vent area. It should be clean and clear of stains or pasted feces.
! 10. Ask to handle the bird yourself. Observe it. Does it have a nice
! personality or did it just bite the ($*# out of you?
11. Look to see if the bird is banded. This is indicative of imported or
domestic birds, depending on the type of band used.
12. Aside from the bands, another way (not so accurate) to tell a baby or
younger bird is by looking at its beak and feet. In a young bird, these
are soft and smooth. Older birds have scaly feet and beaks that show
! wear.
==I'VE SELECTED MY BIRD AND I'M BUYING IT. WHAT SHOULD I DO NOW?==
1. You should make sure that if the bird does not pass a vet exam, you
have the privilege of returning/exchanging the bird within a certain
and reasonable amount of time. Some dealers include a vet check in
the purchase price, but ask if you can take the bird to your vet as
well.
--- 336,368 ----
allowed.
8. The bird should not be too skinny. To check for this, ask someone to
hold the bird while you feel along the sides of its keel (breast) bone. It
should be well fleshed out. If you can see the keel protruding,
the bird is obviously underweight, and might be suffering some illness.
9. While the person has the bird, have them turn it over and check the
vent area. It should be clean and clear of stains or pasted feces.
! 10. Ask to handle the bird yourself. Observe it. Is the bird steady? Calm?
! Does the bird come readily to you? Does it show good socialization
! behavior? Did it bite the ($*# out of you?
11. Look to see if the bird is banded. This is indicative of imported or
domestic birds, depending on the type of band used.
12. Aside from the bands, another way (not so accurate) to tell a baby or
younger bird is by looking at its beak and feet. In a young bird, these
are soft and smooth. Older birds have scaly feet and beaks that show
! wear. Also, in some species, the eyes change color as the bird ages.
! Baby Greys and Timnehs have dark eyes which lighten. Macaws' eyes
! lighten, too.
==I'VE SELECTED MY BIRD AND I'M BUYING IT. WHAT SHOULD I DO NOW?==
1. You should make sure that if the bird does not pass a vet exam, you
have the privilege of returning/exchanging the bird within a certain
and reasonable amount of time. Some dealers include a vet check in
the purchase price, but ask if you can take the bird to your vet as
well.
***************
*** 378,408 ****
E. The hatch date of the bird
F. A full description of the bird, scientific name, any unusual marks,
and the bird's sex (if known)
G. If the bird is imported, get all the proper documentation for it.
Such information might prove useful when retrieving a stolen bird, or if you
should ever have to prove ownership of your avian amigo.
3. Get written instructions on diet, care, and such.
==GETTING POLLY HOME==
Bringing the bird home in a cage would make sense, but it is less stressing
for the bird if you bring it home in a secure, darkened carrier. A cardboard
box with some airholes in it is ideal for small birds. A plastic carrier
the ones for used for cats and dogs, and covered with a towel is excellent
for larger birds. Move the birds individually whenever possible. For a
journey of an hour or so, no food is needed. For a long haul, sprinkle some
! seed on the floor of the carrier. Use firm, moist fruits to provide liquids.
Never put the birds in the trunk of a car. Try not to stop too often.
Try to have the cage already set up at home. You can then put the new
arrival into its new cage, and let it rest and get used to the new scenery.
It is a good idea to isolate it from the rest of your pet birds. Two weeks
is a fair time.
If you are buying a bird that will have to be airshipped, you will pay
for a carrier and the airfreight. You may also pay what is called a
"crate" or "box" fee. You will then pick up the bird at the nearest
--- 376,409 ----
E. The hatch date of the bird
F. A full description of the bird, scientific name, any unusual marks,
and the bird's sex (if known)
G. If the bird is imported, get all the proper documentation for it.
Such information might prove useful when retrieving a stolen bird, or if you
should ever have to prove ownership of your avian amigo.
3. Get written instructions on diet, care, and such.
+ 4. Get the number of the breeder/store and the number of an avian vet,
+ if you don't have one already. (Which you should!!!)
+
==GETTING POLLY HOME==
Bringing the bird home in a cage would make sense, but it is less stressing
for the bird if you bring it home in a secure, darkened carrier. A cardboard
box with some airholes in it is ideal for small birds. A plastic carrier
the ones for used for cats and dogs, and covered with a towel is excellent
for larger birds. Move the birds individually whenever possible. For a
journey of an hour or so, no food is needed. For a long haul, sprinkle some
! food on the floor of the carrier. Use firm, moist fruits to provide liquids.
Never put the birds in the trunk of a car. Try not to stop too often.
Try to have the cage already set up at home. You can then put the new
arrival into its new cage, and let it rest and get used to the new scenery.
It is a good idea to isolate it from the rest of your pet birds. Two weeks
is a fair time.
If you are buying a bird that will have to be airshipped, you will pay
for a carrier and the airfreight. You may also pay what is called a
"crate" or "box" fee. You will then pick up the bird at the nearest
***************
*** 410,443 ****
===============================================================================
B I R D C A G E S A N D P E R C H E S
===============================================================================
==CAGES==
Q. What size cage do I need to get for my bird?
! A. Get the largest you can possibly afford. A good rule of thumb is
that the bird should be able to stretch out its wings fully in at
least one direction. Note that "outstretched wing length" refers to
the span of the *unclipped* wings.
Q. Is bar spacing important?
A. Yes. If it is too large, a smaller bird could hang itself.
1 3/16 is a good space for medium birds and 1 3/8 is good for larger.
3/4 inch spacing is fine for cockatiels, smaller than that for finches.
(repectively 3.02, 3.50, and 1.90 cm)
Q. What about horizontal vs. vertical bars?
A. Horizontal bars are nice for the birds because they're easy to climb.
Vertical bars make it hard to climb, but don't fray long tailfeathers.
Q. What kind of metal is used for the cages?
A. Anodized aluminum, Brass, stainless steel, wrought iron.
For some of the smaller cages for less destructive birds, wood and
clear acrylic sheeting, like Plexiglas(tm), may be used.
Q. I'd like a colored cage...can I get one?
A. Some cages are available with a "powder coat finish" so you can get
them in different colors, however, birds can eventually gnaw the finish
off. There are epoxy painted cages as well. Some cages come in
--- 411,447 ----
===============================================================================
B I R D C A G E S A N D P E R C H E S
===============================================================================
==CAGES==
Q. What size cage do I need to get for my bird?
! A. Get the largest you can possibly afford. This is where the bird will
! spend a great deal of it's time. A good rule of thumb is
that the bird should be able to stretch out its wings fully in at
least one direction. Note that "outstretched wing length" refers to
the span of the *unclipped* wings.
Q. Is bar spacing important?
A. Yes. If it is too large, a smaller bird could hang itself.
1 3/16 is a good space for medium birds and 1 3/8 is good for larger.
3/4 inch spacing is fine for cockatiels, smaller than that for finches.
(repectively 3.02, 3.50, and 1.90 cm)
Q. What about horizontal vs. vertical bars?
A. Horizontal bars are nice for the birds because they're easy to climb.
Vertical bars make it hard to climb, but don't fray long tailfeathers.
+ Cages are now available that have vertical front and back bars and
+ horizontal side bars. This should please everyone.
Q. What kind of metal is used for the cages?
A. Anodized aluminum, Brass, stainless steel, wrought iron.
For some of the smaller cages for less destructive birds, wood and
clear acrylic sheeting, like Plexiglas(tm), may be used.
Q. I'd like a colored cage...can I get one?
A. Some cages are available with a "powder coat finish" so you can get
them in different colors, however, birds can eventually gnaw the finish
off. There are epoxy painted cages as well. Some cages come in
***************
*** 453,480 ****
inclined bird, it might loosen screws. Check the every so often.
One piece cages are just that. They're completely assembled and welded
together.
Q. I've seen great deals on cages, should I get one?
A. Sure, as long as it's sturdy and safe. Check for sharp corners,
poor latches, shoddy paint. Paint can be toxic and if the bird gnaws on it
disaster could ensue. Look at the welds. Are they smooth and virtually
invisible? Give the cage a good shake. Does it stand firm, or sway
precariously? This is your bird's house we're talking about, here.
! When in doubt, don't buy it.
Q. I don't have the money for a new cage, how about a used one?
A. As long as the bird didn't die of some contagious disease, it should
be fine. Disinfect the cage thoroughly. One text I came across
suggests taking a portable blowtorch and searing the cage. This
would definitely kill any yuckies, but would melt anything other than
! a thick steel or iron cage.
Q. Where should the cage be placed?
A. Never in direct sunlight! But a bright area close to the hubbub of
your household is ideal. There should be no drafts of hot or cold
air. The kitchen, due to fumes, flames, and such is a poor idea.
Dreary basements are a poor choice too. A finished basement is fine,
as long as it's not damp and has good circulation and there's action
going on that the bird can be part of.
Q. Do I really need to cover the cage?
--- 457,493 ----
inclined bird, it might loosen screws. Check the every so often.
One piece cages are just that. They're completely assembled and welded
together.
Q. I've seen great deals on cages, should I get one?
A. Sure, as long as it's sturdy and safe. Check for sharp corners,
poor latches, shoddy paint. Paint can be toxic and if the bird gnaws on it
disaster could ensue. Look at the welds. Are they smooth and virtually
invisible? Give the cage a good shake. Does it stand firm, or sway
precariously? This is your bird's house we're talking about, here.
! When in doubt, don't buy it. Be extra careful about imported cages,
! they can be painted with lead paint or be shoddily made. One thing
! that is often ignored is the tray in the bottom of the cage. Make
! sure it has smooth, finished edges. I recently came across a cage
! that looked great, until I pulled out the tray. It was simply a
! piece of galvanized metal with a front lip. The back and sides weren't
! finished, and they were rather sharp. Even with a grate, I wouldn't
! use such a tray. Improbable accidents do happen, and I wouldn't want
! my birds to lose a toe or worse because I wanted to save a few bucks.
Q. I don't have the money for a new cage, how about a used one?
A. As long as the bird didn't die of some contagious disease, it should
be fine. Disinfect the cage thoroughly. One text I came across
suggests taking a portable blowtorch and searing the cage. This
would definitely kill any yuckies, but would melt anything other than
! a thick steel or iron cage. A disinfectant used in avaries would
! probably be great.
Q. Where should the cage be placed?
A. Never in direct sunlight! But a bright area close to the hubbub of
your household is ideal. There should be no drafts of hot or cold
air. The kitchen, due to fumes, flames, and such is a poor idea.
Dreary basements are a poor choice too. A finished basement is fine,
as long as it's not damp and has good circulation and there's action
going on that the bird can be part of.
Q. Do I really need to cover the cage?
***************
*** 494,518 ****
Q. What should I use for as a tray liner?
A. There are several options, and much debate over what is best.
You could use: no liner, gravel paper, plain newsprint paper, shavings,
processed cobs, newspaper. Birds should not ingest any of the above,
although plain paper isn't harmful, it will get soiled. A grid above
the tray will prevent ingestion of liner material and any dropped and
soiled food. Newspaper itself is not toxic, but some inks are. You can
call your local paper to find out what type of ink they use. Soy-based
inks are non-toxic. No liner means you've got to scrub out the pan,
! to which the poop has cemented itself. Processed cobs can actually be
! used with or without a grid, but make sure your bird doesn't eat them.
! There is commercially prepared gravel paper, but it's hard to find in
! the larger sizes and the gravel usually doesn't stick to it very well,
! and ends up all over.
**HELP! My bird is an escape artist!***
Sammy, the green-cheeked conure (Pyrrhura molinae) kept escaping from
his cage via the sliding door, and the food accesses. I "wired" them
shut with Quick Links(tm)--c-type links. They were easier than messing
with those plastic "pine tree" type garbage bag ties. You may have to
use padlocks with larger birds. However some of them are *very*
mechanically inclined (especially Cockatoos) and may very well pick the
lock. For the die hard cases, use combination locks.
--- 507,531 ----
Q. What should I use for as a tray liner?
A. There are several options, and much debate over what is best.
You could use: no liner, gravel paper, plain newsprint paper, shavings,
processed cobs, newspaper. Birds should not ingest any of the above,
although plain paper isn't harmful, it will get soiled. A grid above
the tray will prevent ingestion of liner material and any dropped and
soiled food. Newspaper itself is not toxic, but some inks are. You can
call your local paper to find out what type of ink they use. Soy-based
inks are non-toxic. No liner means you've got to scrub out the pan,
! to which the poop has probably cemented itself. Processed cobs can
! actually be used with or without a grid, but make sure your bird
! doesn't eat them. There is commercially prepared gravel paper, but
! it's hard to find in the larger sizes and the gravel usually doesn't
! stick to it very well, and ends up all over.
**HELP! My bird is an escape artist!***
Sammy, the green-cheeked conure (Pyrrhura molinae) kept escaping from
his cage via the sliding door, and the food accesses. I "wired" them
shut with Quick Links(tm)--c-type links. They were easier than messing
with those plastic "pine tree" type garbage bag ties. You may have to
use padlocks with larger birds. However some of them are *very*
mechanically inclined (especially Cockatoos) and may very well pick the
lock. For the die hard cases, use combination locks.
***************
*** 520,540 ****
--- 533,564 ----
*Note: I went shopping for cages. These I wrote to.
Animal Environments Inglebrook Forges
2270 Camino Vida Roble, Ste. 1 151 N. San Dimas Canyon Rd.
Carlsbad, CA, 92009 San Dimas, CA, 91773
King's Aviary Quisenberry Enterprises
256-8 Craft Ave. 915 Glen Arrow Hwy.
Rosedale, NY 11422 Glendora, CA, 91740
+ *This is who I ultimately purchased from:
+ The Pet Ranch
+ 3015 Pioneer Way
+ Jamul, CA, 91935
+ (619) 669 - 1089
+
+ A wrought iron Macaw cage (24 x 36 x 65 inches) was 249.00 plus 54.29
+ shipping (from CA to MD, mind you).
+ A Cockatoo cage was 199.00 (don't know shipping) (prices as of 10/14/93).
+
+
==PERCHES==
Q. What kinds of perch(es) does my bird need?
A. Your bird needs an assortment of perches of varying diameter, to provide
exercise, to prevent foot injuries and such ailments as sores and
arthritis.
Q. Where should the perches go?
A. Your bird should be able to climb all over his cage, so place the
***************
*** 545,565 ****
Q. What can the perch be made of?
A. Wood--the plain round ones are everywhere. There's manzanita and
madrone, maple, and apple wood. They can be made from PVC and
from acrylic, like Plexiglas(tm) but these should be sanded slightly
to roughen up the otherwise slick surface. There are rope perches,
there are even concrete perches, like Polly Perfect(tm) which help
to keep beak and nails in trim.
Q. What shape should the perch be?
A. They range from round to flat to elliptical. Provide at least two
! different shapes.
Q. What about those sandpaper perches?
A. Okay, but make absolutely certain the bird has another perch to sit on.
Or only cover half the perch with the sandpaper cover.
Q. Rope perches in the pet store are expensive! Can I get them elsewhere?
A. Sure. It was posted to the net that they can be purchased at boating
suppliers. Make sure you get all cotton-rope that hasn't been treated
with chemicals. Ropes are great for feather-pickers, but watch out
for fraying, and replace the rope when it gets too frizzy.
--- 569,590 ----
Q. What can the perch be made of?
A. Wood--the plain round ones are everywhere. There's manzanita and
madrone, maple, and apple wood. They can be made from PVC and
from acrylic, like Plexiglas(tm) but these should be sanded slightly
to roughen up the otherwise slick surface. There are rope perches,
there are even concrete perches, like Polly Perfect(tm) which help
to keep beak and nails in trim.
Q. What shape should the perch be?
A. They range from round to flat to elliptical. Provide at least two
! different shapes. The different shapes and textures keeps muscles
! healthy, nails trimmed and prevents sores on the feet.
Q. What about those sandpaper perches?
A. Okay, but make absolutely certain the bird has another perch to sit on.
Or only cover half the perch with the sandpaper cover.
Q. Rope perches in the pet store are expensive! Can I get them elsewhere?
A. Sure. It was posted to the net that they can be purchased at boating
suppliers. Make sure you get all cotton-rope that hasn't been treated
with chemicals. Ropes are great for feather-pickers, but watch out
for fraying, and replace the rope when it gets too frizzy.
***************
*** 618,637 ****
--- 643,663 ----
A. Some birds can be suspicious of any new thing, including toys. It seems
that a lot of African Greys are like this. The best thing to do is to
put the toy on the floor of the cage or playpen. When the bird starts
poking at it and taking and interest, then try hanging it up.
***HELP! My bird HATES the twenty dollar toy I bought for it!***
Try putting it on the floor of the cage (see previous question)
If this doesn't work, then you're pretty much out twenty dollars.
Taste is a personal thing, and birds definitely do have preferences.
Don't be upset or mad at the bird if it didn't like what you picked out.
+ And definitely do not stop giving your bird toys!
Q. One bird chews, one bird plucks. Are there any special toys for them?
A. For chewers, try wood toys, if they destroy that, try an acrylic, which
will last longer. Manzanita wood is really hard, too. Try toys by
Manzanita Munchies and Naughty Acrylics(tm). For pluckers, try rope toys,
like Byrdy Cable(r) by Booda Bone(tm) or the Polly Dolly(tm) by Lucia.
The Polly Dolly(tm) has lots of different colors and cloth to pick at.
Q. How do I clean the toys?
A. A mild soap and warm water will usually do the trick. Rinse and rinse
***************
*** 638,663 ****
and rinse, and then dry well.
Q. What are some dangers of toys?
A. Hanging, either by getting caught in a clip used to attach the toy,
(avoid those metal shower curtain hangers) or by getting wrapped up
in a leather strip, or a getting hooked in a chain.
Fibers from rope and cloth toys can be wrapped around toes, cutting off
circulation and resulting in the loss of a toe or even a foot.
If the toy is shoddily made from cheap materials, it might break off,
and parts could be ingested. Paint might be toxic. Make certain that
! the clapper in the bell cannot be pulled out and eaten. Be careful how
! you attach a toy. Some birds can unscrew C-links and might tighten them
! onto a toe or their tongue. Others seem to always get tangled in hanging
! ropes or chains. If this is the case, give your bird a "hand-held" toy
! when you can't be around, and carefully observe playtime with hanging
! toys.
Q. Can I use some household items for toys?
A. Sure. Toilet paper *tubes* (not the toilet paper) seem to be resounding
favorites, and they're cheap! Ping-pong balls are popular, along with
ball-point pen tubes (with the ink cartridge removed) We have a
ten-speed set up as an exercise bike in the living room, and our
four birds love to "go biking" more than anything. Plastic measuring
spoons and cups work well, and Josie the cockatiel loves to play with
the plastic caps to soda bottles. But one of the best ideas has to
come from brac...@ecn.purdue.edu (Larry J. Brackney) who writes:
--- 664,690 ----
and rinse, and then dry well.
Q. What are some dangers of toys?
A. Hanging, either by getting caught in a clip used to attach the toy,
(avoid those metal shower curtain hangers) or by getting wrapped up
in a leather strip, or a getting hooked in a chain.
Fibers from rope and cloth toys can be wrapped around toes, cutting off
circulation and resulting in the loss of a toe or even a foot.
If the toy is shoddily made from cheap materials, it might break off,
and parts could be ingested. Paint might be toxic. Make certain that
! the clapper in the bell cannot be pulled out and eaten. Make sure the
! bell, clapper or other metal toys do not contain lead or lead paint.
! Be careful how you attach a toy. Some birds can unscrew C-links and
! might tighten them onto a toe or their tongue. Others seem to always
! get tangled in hanging ropes or chains. If this is the case, give
! your bird a "hand-held" toy when you can't be around, and carefully
! observe playtime with hanging toys.
Q. Can I use some household items for toys?
A. Sure. Toilet paper *tubes* (not the toilet paper) seem to be resounding
favorites, and they're cheap! Ping-pong balls are popular, along with
ball-point pen tubes (with the ink cartridge removed) We have a
ten-speed set up as an exercise bike in the living room, and our
four birds love to "go biking" more than anything. Plastic measuring
spoons and cups work well, and Josie the cockatiel loves to play with
the plastic caps to soda bottles. But one of the best ideas has to
come from brac...@ecn.purdue.edu (Larry J. Brackney) who writes:
***************
*** 673,693 ****
usually pick through them, and try to pick out toys without small parts
that can be broken and swallowed. Once home, we wash and sterilize the
toys. "
---------
SOURCES FOR TOYS: These are ones I've seen in my local pet shops.
B is for Bird Toy Fowl Play
! 6740 William Ln 545 William Ln
! Lincoln, CA, 95648 Moline, IL, 61265
Polly Dolly Texture Toy Thee Birdie Bordello
P.O. Box 997 P.O. Box 2906
Comfort, TX, 78013 El Segundo, CA, 90245
===============================================================================
! E N D O F P A R T O N E
! =============================================================================
--- 700,720 ----
usually pick through them, and try to pick out toys without small parts
that can be broken and swallowed. Once home, we wash and sterilize the
toys. "
---------
SOURCES FOR TOYS: These are ones I've seen in my local pet shops.
B is for Bird Toy Fowl Play
! 6740 William Ln 108 Charmont Dr.
! Lincoln, CA, 95648 Radford, VA, 24141
Polly Dolly Texture Toy Thee Birdie Bordello
P.O. Box 997 P.O. Box 2906
Comfort, TX, 78013 El Segundo, CA, 90245
===============================================================================
! E N D O F P A R T O N E *last revised 10/15/93*
! ===============================================================================
DIFFS FOR PART 2 OF THE FAQ
*** birds.current2 Fri Aug 20 22:50:07 1993
--- birds.new2 Sun Oct 17 13:47:01 1993
***************
*** 1,58 ****
! Species-specific faqs cover the named species: Poicephalus
--- 1,51 ----
! Species specific Faq's cover the named species: Poicephalus.
***************
*** 106,132 ****
Q. Do I have to feed my bird live food?
A. Live food--crickets, grubs, worms, pinky mice (hairless babies) are
good sources of protein for breeding and brooding birds and pets.
You can get them from pet stores or mail-order. Your bird may refuse
to eat them.
Q. Do I need to use a vitamin supplement?
A. A balanced diet is always better than a poor one supplemented with
vitamins, but there may be a case when your bird will need them.
! Vitamin supplements that you put in the water may be refused because
! of the taste. The amount of nutrients in the water also encourages
! bacterial growth. Powdered supplements work on moist food, but
! measure carefully, so you don't overdose your bird. Cuttlebones
! and mineral blocks should be provided in the bird's cage. The bird
! will use them as needed.
Q. Does my bird need grit?
A. Welcome to the great grit gridlock. Everybody has a different opinion
on this issue. The current opinion is that birds that eat mostly soft
food and fruits don't need grit; a bird which eats mostly dry seeds will
need grit. However, some people don't even give grit to birds which
supposedly "need" grit. They claim that it makes the bird lose weight.
There is also the danger of crop impaction when a bird is given grit.
Birds kept in aviaries with dirt floors will pick granules off the ground,
so it is not necessary to provide grit to them. If you do feel your bird
may need grit, try to get a soluble kind, as it will eventually dissolve
--- 99,254 ----
Q. Do I have to feed my bird live food?
A. Live food--crickets, grubs, worms, pinky mice (hairless babies) are
good sources of protein for breeding and brooding birds and pets.
You can get them from pet stores or mail-order. Your bird may refuse
to eat them.
Q. Do I need to use a vitamin supplement?
A. A balanced diet is always better than a poor one supplemented with
vitamins, but there may be a case when your bird will need them.
! ---------
! This is a summary/commentary of dietary supplements. It has been
! graciously contributed by Kelly Flynn (ke...@cco.caltech.edu).
+ I've been spending a lot of time reading and talking to people about
+ diet recently, because I want to make the best choices I can. We
+ really don't know much about avian nutrition (heck, we can't figure out
+ human nutrition)! I think the least we could do is to keep an open mind.
+
+ BENE-BAC (for birds)
+
+ After reading a post about Bene-Bac, I went ahead and called up
+ PetAg (1-800-323-0877) and asked them to send me some information
+ about the product. The woman I spoke to was very nice and said they
+ would send a sample. When I received the information, I found they
+ were kind enough to include a 15 gram tube of Bene-Bac (good for
+ about 15 applications for a large bird!) and a 1oz package of their
+ powder (which i didn't know existed.) Their material states the
+ following:
+
+ Bene-Bac offers:
+
+ A concentrated live culture of five common digestive bacteria found
+ in the intestinal tracts of birds. A guaranteed 10 million colony
+ forming units (CFU) per gram of viable lactic acid producing bacteria.
+ A concentrated energy source. Help for birds and reptiles under
+ adverse conditions such as: showing, breeding, traveling, worming,
+ surgery, weaning, boarding, antibiotic therapy, simple intestinal stress.
+
+ Bene-Bac is a palatable gel in an easy to use syringe (My finicky Macaw
+ *loves* the taste of the gel).
+
+ Bene-Bac is recommended as part of the management program for birds
+ when hand feeding or weaning from handfeeding. Use with growing or
+ mature birds when they are subject to changing nutritional or to
+ environmental conditions or after antibiotic therapy. If diarrhea or
+ anorexia (loss of appetite) persists, contact your veterinarian.
+ Bene-Bac is recommended as part of a normal maintenance program.
+
+ GEL INGREDIENTS:
+ Dried Lactobacillus fermentum, dried L. casei (avian strain), dried
+ Streptococcus faecium, L. plantarum and L. acidophilus fermentation
+ products, vegetable oils, sugar, silicon dioxide, artificial color,
+ polysorbate 80 preserved with TBHQ and ethoxyquin.
+
+ POWDER INGREDIENTS:
+ Dextrose, maltodextrin, dried Lactobacillus fermentum, dried
+ L. casei (avian strain,) dried Streptococcus faecium,
+ dried L. plantarum and dried L. acidophilus fermentation products.
+
+
+ Finally, I've been reading more about supplying beneficial bacteria
+ to birds under stress. There definitely seems to be studies which
+ support that parent delivered (regurgitated) food encourages faster
+ chick growth (when compaired to hand feeding). Many people also
+ feel that the parents' supply of beneficial bacteria helps encourage a
+ healthier chick with faster growth. However, studies also show that
+ the bacteria work best if species specific. In other words, its
+ very questionable if Lactobacillus strains for humans (commonly
+ found in yogurt,) are as good for birds as avian strains (like
+ found in Bene-Bac or AviGuard by Pet Med Tech.) Even better would
+ be strains from a Scarlet Macaw for other Scarlet Macaws or ideally,
+ from a parent bird (if this is to be used for handfeeding,) of the
+ chick. Avian specific strains can be established in the gut of a
+ bird more readily than other strains.
+ If you have further questions about this product, I urge you to call
+ PetAg at the number listed in the beginning of this section.
+
+ SPIRULINA: This is what harrison's puts in their pellets, and it's high in
+ beta carotene and amino acids. It's expensive, 100 grams cost $15, at a
+ recommended rate of 1% of the diet. I'm guesstimating this is 1/8 to
+ a 1/4 of a teaspoon per portion of soft food. My brand is 'Bright and
+ Healthy' by Earthrise.
+
+ LACTOBACILLUS ACIDOPHILUS: I'm hoping it will help up the weight of a low weight
+ bird who is slightly stressed by a recent move. My label ('Aviguard'
+ by Pet Med Tech "contains 3 avian strains of stabilized L.a. in a
+ lactose base, store in a cool dry place or refrigerate") suggests
+ a dose of 1/4 teaspoon of L.a. per 1 cup of formula and to use the
+ treated formula for 4 consecutive days and repeat for 2 consecutive
+ days every other week until weaned. For dry dosing, 1/4 teaspoon on
+ moist food sufficient to feed 1-3 birds. Treat for four consecutive
+ days. It also has an expiration date. $17 for 2 ounces.
+
+ AVIA (For Birds by Nutra-vet Research Corp.): This has
+ a nice range of vitamins, minerals *and* amino acids. Dosage for a
+ macaw is 1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon per portion of food, once a day. It was
+ recommended by a friend who I respect and trust, and once I started
+ comparing it to other vitamins, it just seemed more complete.
+ Unlike several other brands, which I had noticed contained
+ preservatives, Avia does not use artificial means of extending the
+ product's shelf life. Also, there are no ils or lecithin in this
+ formula. This is very important, in that these additives can
+ promote spoilage and alter the nutrition content.
+ I like the fact that this is put on food, since I feel the vitamins are
+ best absorbed when food is being digested, instead of taking them on an
+ empty tummy, it is also better than giving the vitamins alone or
+ using the vitamins in the bird's drinking water. Vitamins in water
+ become inactive quickly and also can encourage bacterial growth in the
+ water. Many birds don't like the colored or funny tasting water,
+ or will not accept them in water. $5 for 2 ounces.
+
+ SUPER PREEN: This is a dry powder, which is to be sprinkled on moist foods.
+ More information to follow.
+
+ PRIME: No information available at this point.
+
+ PROPER STORAGE AND ADMINSTRATION OF SUPPLEMENTS:
+ One thing that I noticed about supplements and packagings is that
+ the Spirulina and Avia are sold in opaque containers. This
+ is desirable, since sunlight and heat will breakdown vitamins rapidly.
+ To prevent further breakdown of nutrients, store the supplements in a
+ cool, dark place. I wish *all* supplements had expiration dates,
+ since I worry about the effectiveness of something that has sat on
+ the shelf for a while. Perhaps buying direct from the company would help
+ insure freshness. I also like getting small containers that which are
+ sealed, and can be resealed. The small containers enable me to use the
+ product, and not let it sit on the shelf, so I can buy more fresh
+ as soon as I run out.
+ As for applying them, you want to follow directions on the label. The
+ vitamin coating should be *very* light, and even starting with lower
+ than recommended amounts might be a good idea if your bird is picky
+ over the slightest change in diet. More will NOT be better, and could
+ hurt your bird. Also be careful if you're feeding a pelleted diet
+ which very likely already has vitamins included.
+ Do not try to give your bird a number of supplements all at once.
+ Try to concentrate on one particular supplement, then perhaps
+ alternate the other supplements with it. I have also discussed my
+ supplemental plan with my veterinarian, who believes that it will,
+ in the very least, prove helpful. I suggest that you do the same.
+ No doubt the vet will have at least one insight into your supplemental
+ plan.
+
+ ----------
+
+
Q. Does my bird need grit?
A. Welcome to the great grit gridlock. Everybody has a different opinion
on this issue. The current opinion is that birds that eat mostly soft
food and fruits don't need grit; a bird which eats mostly dry seeds will
need grit. However, some people don't even give grit to birds which
supposedly "need" grit. They claim that it makes the bird lose weight.
There is also the danger of crop impaction when a bird is given grit.
Birds kept in aviaries with dirt floors will pick granules off the ground,
so it is not necessary to provide grit to them. If you do feel your bird
may need grit, try to get a soluble kind, as it will eventually dissolve
***************
*** 180,199 ****
--- 302,329 ----
1-800-842-6445 1-800-634-2473
Roudybush Feeds Scenic Bird Foods
P.O. Box 908 Marion Zoological Inc.
Templeton, CA, 93564 113 N. First P.O. Box 212
1-800-326-1726 Marion, KS, 66861
(Avialable only through
Veterinarians, and certain
dealers)
+
+ Harrison's Bird Foods
+ c/o HBD Inc
+ 1830 F Street
+ Pawnee City, NE, 68420
+ 1-800-346-0269
+
+
SOURCES FOR COOKED SUPPLEMENTS
Crazy Corn Flights of Fancy
13330 Bessemer Street 1594 Hilltop Drive
Van Nuys, CA, 91491 El Cajon, CA, 92020-8227
1-800-BIRD-YUM (1-800-247-3986) 1-800-776-MEAL (1-800-776-6325)
SOURCES FOR LIVE FOOD
***************
*** 242,265 ****
Q. What's the UP command?
A. The UP command is a rule for your bird. When you say UP, the bird
knows it is to step on the perch or hand/arm you are offering it.
The DOWN command is used when setting the bird down.
--TO TEACH THE UP/DOWN COMMAND--
Take your bird to the training area. Put the bird on its t-stand.
Now, take your finger,hand, or arm (or use a dowel/perch) and press
it against the bird's legs. The bird will then step up onto the perch.
As the bird steps up, say "<bird's name> Up!" Praise the bird. Place
! the bird back on the t-stand, say "<name> Down!". Repeat this. It seems that most
! birds can learn this is fifteen minutes, but results and birds vary.
! Always be patient, and no matter what happens with training, never,
! ever hit your bird. Being consistent is the best thing you can do.
Q. My bird is stick trained, but *hates* to perch on my finger or hand.
What do I do about this?
A. You have two choices, one using the perch, and the other using
a training towel. Holding the stick on which the bird is perched,
slowly tip one end of the perch up, so that it's higher than the other.
A bird will instinctively go to the highest perch, and this would be
your hand. Drop the perch away once the bird is on your hand. The bird
might jump off when it feels the skin of your hand. Then there is the
training towel. Get a neutral colored towel (white, beige, etc).
--- 372,396 ----
Q. What's the UP command?
A. The UP command is a rule for your bird. When you say UP, the bird
knows it is to step on the perch or hand/arm you are offering it.
The DOWN command is used when setting the bird down.
--TO TEACH THE UP/DOWN COMMAND--
Take your bird to the training area. Put the bird on its t-stand.
Now, take your finger,hand, or arm (or use a dowel/perch) and press
it against the bird's legs. The bird will then step up onto the perch.
As the bird steps up, say "<bird's name> Up!" Praise the bird. Place
! the bird back on the t-stand, say "<name> Down!". Repeat this. It
! seems that most birds can learn this in about fifteen minutes, but
! results and birds vary. Always be patient, and no matter what
! happens with training, never, ever hit your bird. Being patient,
! gentle and most of all consistent, are the best things you can do.
Q. My bird is stick trained, but *hates* to perch on my finger or hand.
What do I do about this?
A. You have two choices, one using the perch, and the other using
a training towel. Holding the stick on which the bird is perched,
slowly tip one end of the perch up, so that it's higher than the other.
A bird will instinctively go to the highest perch, and this would be
your hand. Drop the perch away once the bird is on your hand. The bird
might jump off when it feels the skin of your hand. Then there is the
training towel. Get a neutral colored towel (white, beige, etc).
***************
*** 281,301 ****
There are also CD's and tapes with phrases on them. It's a good idea to
teach your bird its phone number and address in case it escapes or gets
stolen.
Q. Can I teach my bird to be quiet?
A. All birds need some time to mouth off, but constant screaming is a
problem. But you simply cannot punish a bird for doing what comes
naturally. First, think about when the bird screams. Is it in
the morning and at night? This is normal and natural. Is the bird
near a loud TV or stereo or a window that has bustle and hustle going
! on outside? Try moving the cage. Never yell at the bird, this is
a reward of sorts for it. If the bird is screaming in its cage,
try covering it for about five minutes. It should quiet down. Remove
the bird when it's quiet. Try to provide more toys for the bird
if left alone frequently. Reinforce *positive* behavior. This can be
hard to do...we're more inclined to notice bad behavior than good.
Each bird is unique and may require a different approach to remedy
its screaming. You can consult with a animal behaviorist to help
in really bad cases.
Q. Can I teach my bird tricks?
--- 412,435 ----
There are also CD's and tapes with phrases on them. It's a good idea to
teach your bird its phone number and address in case it escapes or gets
stolen.
Q. Can I teach my bird to be quiet?
A. All birds need some time to mouth off, but constant screaming is a
problem. But you simply cannot punish a bird for doing what comes
naturally. First, think about when the bird screams. Is it in
the morning and at night? This is normal and natural. Is the bird
near a loud TV or stereo or a window that has bustle and hustle going
! on outside? Or is the bird in place where it can hear but not see
! things that are going on around it? Did you forget to feed the bird?
! Did you forget to water the bird? I'd scream too, if I was
! hungry! Try moving the cage. Never yell at the bird, this is
a reward of sorts for it. If the bird is screaming in its cage,
try covering it for about five minutes. It should quiet down. Remove
the bird when it's quiet. Try to provide more toys for the bird
if left alone frequently. Reinforce *positive* behavior. This can be
hard to do...we're more inclined to notice bad behavior than good.
Each bird is unique and may require a different approach to remedy
its screaming. You can consult with a animal behaviorist to help
in really bad cases.
Q. Can I teach my bird tricks?
***************
*** 355,381 ****
you a little too hard. The "Ouch!" will help the bird to understand
your limits (and its limits!) But never yell, hit, or be dramatic,
even though your fingers--and feelings may be hurt. Such behavior can
be a drama award and it's exciting for the bird to get a rise from you.
Don't put the bird in its cage either, should it bite. This only
reinforces territoriality about the bird's cage, and the parrot will
quickly equate bite = back to cage. The bird will then bite whenever
and however often it feels like going back to its cage.
You would be very surprised how gentle birds are once they understand
! your limits. As an example, I had an an opportunity to handle a Blue
! and Gold Macaw. These birds can bite hard enough to break a broom
! handle. The owner of the shop had obviously worked with this darling
bird, as it took my index finger in its beak and explored it very
gently, never once bearing down hard enough to be even slightly
! uncomfortable, let alone hurt me.
==PLAYING==
Play is an important part of your bird's daily activities and it's fun
to do things with your bird. This can range from watching TV together
to sailing, to games, to listening to music together. A bird is most
happy when it can be part of the family and part of the action. Also,
a certain amount of *independent* playtime--where the bird is
responsible for amusing itself--is necessary, whether you are at home
--- 489,523 ----
you a little too hard. The "Ouch!" will help the bird to understand
your limits (and its limits!) But never yell, hit, or be dramatic,
even though your fingers--and feelings may be hurt. Such behavior can
be a drama award and it's exciting for the bird to get a rise from you.
Don't put the bird in its cage either, should it bite. This only
reinforces territoriality about the bird's cage, and the parrot will
quickly equate bite = back to cage. The bird will then bite whenever
and however often it feels like going back to its cage.
+ A good bite correction is a wobble. If the bird is perched on
+ your hand, and bites, drop your hand quickly. The bird loses it's
+ balance and has to release the bite. This is unpleasant (imagine
+ the floor dropping out from under you unexpectedly.) but effective.
+ The bird soon learns to associate "bite = wobble", and will stop
+ biting when on a hand.
+
You would be very surprised how gentle birds are once they understand
! your limits, even the bigger birds. I once had an opportunity to
! handle a Blue and Gold Macaw (Ara ararauna). These birds can bite hard
! enough to break a broom handle(!). The breeder of the bird had
! obviously spent a great deal of time and patience with the young
bird, as it took my index finger in its beak and explored it very
gently, never once bearing down hard enough to be even slightly
! uncomfortable. Such a tame and well-trained bird is a pleasure.
==PLAYING==
Play is an important part of your bird's daily activities and it's fun
to do things with your bird. This can range from watching TV together
to sailing, to games, to listening to music together. A bird is most
happy when it can be part of the family and part of the action. Also,
a certain amount of *independent* playtime--where the bird is
responsible for amusing itself--is necessary, whether you are at home
***************
*** 434,453 ****
--- 576,598 ----
number of your vet and where you can be contacted if any problems occur.
===============================================================================
V E T S - H E A L T H - H A Z A R D S - F I R S T A I D
===============================================================================
==FINDING AN AVIAN VET==
+ A vet plays an integral part in the life of you and your bird. S/he can
+ offer advice, options, information, and of course, medicinal care! Before
+ you even buy a bird, make sure you have a vet.
Q. Where can I find an avian vet?
A. Try looking in the yellow pages, asking a breeder or another friend
for a recommendation.
Q. What do I look for when I go to check out the vet?
A. A number of things: Is the office clean and does it have proper
equipment? Look for or ask to see bird-related equipment like
an incubator, special bird syringes--to administer small doses,
opthalmic equipment--for surgery and for sexing, perhaps a laser
***************
*** 505,525 ****
light colored claws as a pinkish stripe. In dark claws, you can turn
the bird over to see the underside of the claw and the quick. You may
want to have someone show you how to clip them first. Provide different
perches and surfaces to keep claws in trim naturally. If you do hit the
quick, dip the claw into some styptic powder to staunch the bleeding.
Q. My bird's beak is overgrown. What do I do?
A. An overgrown beak usually means that the bird doesn't have enough to
gnaw on, which is how the bird keeps the beak trimmed in the wild.
A vet or experienced breeder must trim the beak, as it is full of
! blood vessels, and a mishap could be very serious.
Q. Does my bird need a bath?
A. Yes! Most birds love baths, and will bathe in a dish or in the shower
with you or like to be spritzed with a plant mister set to fine.
It's excellent for the bird's plumage and with "dusty" birds, like
cockatoos, helps keep down the dust. Some birds may have to be
gradually introduced to misting, but it's a good move. You can let
the bird dry by itself (as long as the ambient temperature in your
house is at *least* 60 degrees Farenheit (16 Celsius) or use a
hairdryer set on medium heat. Never put a wet bird to bed for the night.
--- 650,671 ----
light colored claws as a pinkish stripe. In dark claws, you can turn
the bird over to see the underside of the claw and the quick. You may
want to have someone show you how to clip them first. Provide different
perches and surfaces to keep claws in trim naturally. If you do hit the
quick, dip the claw into some styptic powder to staunch the bleeding.
Q. My bird's beak is overgrown. What do I do?
A. An overgrown beak usually means that the bird doesn't have enough to
gnaw on, which is how the bird keeps the beak trimmed in the wild.
A vet or experienced breeder must trim the beak, as it is full of
! blood vessels, and a mishap could be very serious. Offer the bird
! toys to chew on or lava blocks or such to help keep the beak trimmed.
Q. Does my bird need a bath?
A. Yes! Most birds love baths, and will bathe in a dish or in the shower
with you or like to be spritzed with a plant mister set to fine.
It's excellent for the bird's plumage and with "dusty" birds, like
cockatoos, helps keep down the dust. Some birds may have to be
gradually introduced to misting, but it's a good move. You can let
the bird dry by itself (as long as the ambient temperature in your
house is at *least* 60 degrees Farenheit (16 Celsius) or use a
hairdryer set on medium heat. Never put a wet bird to bed for the night.
***************
*** 842,864 ****
Wheeling, IL, 60090-6398
1-800-323-6234
===============================================================================
F I R S T A I D
===============================================================================
==AVIAN AID==
! *Note: all the A's in this section are what to do right then and there.
Should the situation be serious, get to the vet, who will perform "Second aid"
! First aid is just to hold the bird over 'till the vet visit. It's not a cure.
Q. Can I buy complete bird first aid kits?
A. Yes, you can!
Exotic Bird Care Thief Of Hearts
Bird Aid First Aid Kit
7514 Charmant Drive #923 421 N. Glenn
San Diego, CA, 92122 Wichita, KS, 67203
1-619-793-2473 1-316-267-1656
$14.95 plus $2.00 s/h $39.95 (loaded with stuff!)
--- 988,1010 ----
Wheeling, IL, 60090-6398
1-800-323-6234
===============================================================================
F I R S T A I D
===============================================================================
==AVIAN AID==
! *Note: ALL the A's in this section are what to do right then and there.
Should the situation be serious, get to the vet, who will perform "Second aid"
! First aid is just to hold the bird over 'till the vet visit. IT IS NOT A CURE.
Q. Can I buy complete bird first aid kits?
A. Yes, you can!
Exotic Bird Care Thief Of Hearts
Bird Aid First Aid Kit
7514 Charmant Drive #923 421 N. Glenn
San Diego, CA, 92122 Wichita, KS, 67203
1-619-793-2473 1-316-267-1656
$14.95 plus $2.00 s/h $39.95 (loaded with stuff!)
***************
*** 896,919 ****
Q. My bird's leg is being rubbed raw by the leg band. Can I take it off?
A. No. Don't attempt this, especially if the leg is broken or swollen.
The vet will be able to remove the band, and deal with whatever injury
maybe lurking under the banded area.
Q. How do I pull a broken bloodfeather?
A. This is probably the most common mishap. The remedy is simple--yank!
It's most easily done with two people. One to restrain the bird and the
other to pull the feather. Use a plier, or a hemostat. Tweezers won't
! work on primaries. Clamp onto the quill, and give a short yank. The
! feather will come out. Apply a little pressure to the follicle where
! the feather was to stop the bleeding. Dab some styptic powder on it
! to help stop the bleeding as well. Let the bird rest. Ask your vet
or breeder to demonstrate exactly how to pull a bloodfeather if you're
apprehensive about doing it.
Q. My bird has broken its wing, what now?
A. Get thee to a vet! But take precautions to immobilize the wing. Using
butcher, drafting, or masking tape (which isn't too sticky) tape the
wing gently to the body.
Q. My bird can't lay her eggs. What can I do to help?
A. Put her in a hospital cage, and keep her warm. Sometimes this is all
--- 1042,1067 ----
Q. My bird's leg is being rubbed raw by the leg band. Can I take it off?
A. No. Don't attempt this, especially if the leg is broken or swollen.
The vet will be able to remove the band, and deal with whatever injury
maybe lurking under the banded area.
Q. How do I pull a broken bloodfeather?
A. This is probably the most common mishap. The remedy is simple--yank!
It's most easily done with two people. One to restrain the bird and the
other to pull the feather. Use a plier, or a hemostat. Tweezers won't
! work on primaries. Make certain that the wing bones are firmly
! supported or you can break the wing. Clamp onto the feather and give a
! sharp tug in the direction of the feather. The feather will come out.
! Next, apply gentle, direct pressure to the follicle where the feather
! was to stop the bleeding. Dab some styptic powder on it, as it will
! help stop the bleeding as well. Let the bird rest. Ask your vet
or breeder to demonstrate exactly how to pull a bloodfeather if you're
apprehensive about doing it.
Q. My bird has broken its wing, what now?
A. Get thee to a vet! But take precautions to immobilize the wing. Using
butcher, drafting, or masking tape (which isn't too sticky) tape the
wing gently to the body.
Q. My bird can't lay her eggs. What can I do to help?
A. Put her in a hospital cage, and keep her warm. Sometimes this is all
***************
*** 932,944 ****
Q. My bird is wheezing, what could this mean?
A. The bird may have inhaled a seed hull or a bit of pellet. This is very
serious. Also, the bird may have air-sac mites (Gouldian Finches are
prone to these) or an infection. All these require vet care.
Q. I feel like this is all my fault, why did this happen?
A. Even with the best of intent and cautions, mishaps occur. That's exactly
why they're called accidents.
! ==============================================================================
! E N D P A R T I I
! ============================================================================
--- 1080,1095 ----
Q. My bird is wheezing, what could this mean?
A. The bird may have inhaled a seed hull or a bit of pellet. This is very
serious. Also, the bird may have air-sac mites (Gouldian Finches are
prone to these) or an infection. All these require vet care.
Q. I feel like this is all my fault, why did this happen?
A. Even with the best of intent and cautions, mishaps occur. That's exactly
why they're called accidents.
! ===============================================================================
! E N D P A R T I I *last revised 10/15/93*
! ===============================================================================
!
!
!
DIFFS FOR PART 3 OF THE FAQ
*** birds.current3 Fri Aug 20 22:49:53 1993
--- birds.new3 Sun Oct 17 13:47:53 1993
***************
***************
*** 296,308 ****
with) a smoker, and had no notable occupational exposure to
respiratory carcinogens, so I would seem to be at lower risk than
most of the cases in this study, but there are no guarantees.
Even persons who are not in the known high risk categories
(smoking, passive smoking, occupational exposure) occasionally get
a disease, and not everyone in the high risk categories gets the
disease.
The principal question as I see it is: does living with birds
enhance my life? The answer is: Yes.
==============================================================================
! rec.pets.birds. FAQ last updated on 06/02/93 c1993 Jodi Giannini
==============================================================================
--- 289,308 ----
with) a smoker, and had no notable occupational exposure to
respiratory carcinogens, so I would seem to be at lower risk than
most of the cases in this study, but there are no guarantees.
Even persons who are not in the known high risk categories
(smoking, passive smoking, occupational exposure) occasionally get
a disease, and not everyone in the high risk categories gets the
disease.
The principal question as I see it is: does living with birds
enhance my life? The answer is: Yes.
+
+
==============================================================================
! *FAQ COMPLETED 2/28/93* Last revised 10/15/93 * C 1993 by Jodi Giannini*
==============================================================================
+
+
+
+
+
END OF DIFFS FOR THE FAQ