On Mon, 08 Oct 2012 18:19:37 -0400, Will Sill <w...
>On 10/8/12 4:32 PM, Ron wrote re valve stems:
>> You should be able to glance at them and tell. The rubber ones are
>> black, the metal ones are shiny metal.
>The important difference is not color, though the metal ones are usually
>shiny. What matters is that the metal ones are secured with a visible
>nut. The rubber plug stems are OK for passenger car tires but not
>recommended for truck/MH tires.
>Andy please help with this: Isn't there a general rule (maybe even a
>dang regulation?) against using the rubber type above a certain pressure?
Janet, the rear end/axle used in your MH will dictate what type of
wheel you have which in turn will determine what style of stem you
Most of the TR numbers below 501 are suitable up to 60 psi. The
TR600HP is good to 100 psi. Same for the 602, 801 and 802. These are
snap in valves; meaning they are inserted from inside the wheel and
stretched until the tapered rubber body snaps into the wheel hole.
The metal of these High Pressure valves extends the full length of the
valve. There was a problem with these about 6 or 7 years ago. The
rubber wasn't adhered to the metal. On the end of the stem inside the
tire there were two shapes of openings. One was a round hole and the
other was a hexagon. I can't recall just now which was the defective
Starting with the 501, most valves are clamp in. Meaning they are
inserted from the inside of the tire with a rubber grommet and held in
place with a washer and nut. (clamping the wheel between the grommet
and the nut.) These can leak if not properly tightened but they cannot
blow out through the hole as the metal end of the stem is larger than
There is an almost endless variety of stems of different lengths and
pre-bent angles. There are special stems for aluminum wheels and
counter bored stem holes that require o-rings.