sulphur smell from hot water
steve
have drained the water heater and it still stinks. What do I do to get rid
of the smell, and insure it doesn't come back. TIA. Steve and Sally
Chris Bryant
Following is a cut and paste from the Atwood service manual:
--begin quote--
FLUSHING YOUR WATER HEATER TO REMOVE UNPLEASANT ODOR
Hydrogen Sulfide can result when the protective cladding on the
interior of the tank is doing its' job by preventing corrosion and
therefore premature tank failure. The electro galvanic action of the
cladding material releases hydrogen from the water. If sulfur or
any of its' combinations are present in the water the two will combine
and produce hydrogen sulfide. This compound produces the "rotten egg
odor". Hydrogen sulfide can also be present in your fresh water
supply.
It is the product of the decay of animal matter and as little as 1
mg/liter can cause a perceptible odor. Smell the water before
starting the flushing procedure. If your fresh water has "rotten egg"
odor you will need
to find another source of fresh water before flushing and refilling
the entire water storage system.
* See Flushing Instructions and use four parts vinegar mixed with
two parts water to flush tank.
--end quote--
Following are the flushing instructions:
--begin quote--
FLUSHING (WINTERIZING) INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Turn off main water supply (your pump or your water hook up
source).
2. Drain water heater inner tank. Due to the location of the drain
plug, approximately two quarts or water will remain in the bottom of
the tank. This water contains most of the harmful corrosive
particles. While draining the unit, if the water flows sporadically
or
tickles instead of flowing steadily, we recommend the following: first
open the relief valve to allow air into the tank and secondly, take a
small gauge wire or coat hanger device and prod through the drain
opening to
eliminate any obstructions.
3. After thoroughly draining the tank, flush it with air pressure or
fresh water. If you use air pressure, it may be applied either
through the inlet or outlet on the rear of the tank. It may also be
applied through the pressure temperature relief valve but first remove
the relief valve support flange. With the drain valve open, the air
pressure will force the remaining water along with the corrosive
particles, out of the unit. Your unit can be flushed with fresh water
if air pressure is not available. Fresh water should be pumped
into the tank with the assistance of the onboard pump or external
water through the inlet or outlet found on the rear or the pressure
temperature relief valve support
located on the front of the unit. Continue this flushing process for
approximately five minutes to allow ample time for the fresh water to
agitate the stagnant water on the bottom of the tank and force the
deposits through the drain opening.
4. Close off the drain valve and the pressure
temperature relief valve.
5. After this procedure, there will be approximately two quarts of
water left at the bottom of the inner tank. Should this water freeze
it will not cause any splitting of the tank.
--end quote--
And- while were at it- there was another question about a
white scaly material.. so:
--begin quote--
WATER HEATER TANK CORROSION
Pinholes leaks from galvanic corrosion may cause the water heater tank
to fail.
Microscopic particles of metals (like iron and copper) suspended in
water, set up a reaction inside the water heater that is not unlike
the principle on which an automotive battery operates. The aluminum
tank is the
anode and the metals in the water serve as the cathode. Consequently,
the aluminum gradually sacrifices itself and aluminum particles are
carried away with the water
flow.
A white scaly material (aluminum oxide) often is formed around the
points where the heaviest action is taking place and heat accelerates
the process. Severity of the
problem varies considerably in different locales depending on the
metal and mineral content of the water. White deposits inside the
water heater tank are usually from water impurities that have settled
out.
Periodic flushing of the water heater tank under pressure is
recommended to slow down this process. For flushing instructions see
this pamphlet, your owners manual or contact Atwood for a copy of our
recommended procedure.
--end quote--
--
Chris Bryant
Bryant RV Services- http://www.bryantrv.com
HHamp5246
If you remember GB took the Hott Rod out of my WH and replaced it with a plug.
It's an Atwood.
The water still has that smell..... the instructions you posted seem to be for
the tank.... I'm hooked up to my well water. Should I just run the hot water
til the smell is gone?
Hunter
Chris Bryant
Yeah- you might try pouring a bottle of vinegar into a hose,
then hooking it up to the trailer, and running the hot water for a
bit- then leave the vinegar in the tank overnight.
Have you heard anything back from the Hott Rod people?
Lon VanOstran
Camping World sells a "Wand" (for the end of your garden hose) to reach
inside the WH and rinse it out. You wouldn't believe the crud which
builds up and doesn't come out without some persuasion.
Lon
Jim Walker
It got better when I flushed quite a bit of water through the system. I am
experimenting to see how to keep this from happening. I use an inline water
filter that probably takes out the chlorine and I am thinking that could
lead to the problem. I now run city water through the system when I arrive
home to add the disinfectant in that water.
--
Jim Walker
Northern Virginia
steve <shfo...@usa.net> wrote in message
news:3d3db...@news1.prserv.net...
HHamp5246
<Bryan...@cfl.rr.com> writes:
> Yeah- you might try pouring a bottle of vinegar into a hose,
>then hooking it up to the trailer, and running the hot water for a
>bit- then leave the vinegar in the tank overnight.>
Okay. Um, how will I know when the vinegar is actually in the HW heater tank?
>Have you heard anything back from the Hott Rod people?>
Yes, they sent me a brand new shiny rod. I haven't plugged it in because my
water here is so hard it would just ruin it.
Thanks Chris,
Hunter
steve
Atwood directions, if I can figure out exactly how. Steve and Sally
Paul Hutmacher
news:20020723192624...@mb-ck.aol.com:
>
> The water still has that smell..... the instructions you posted seem
> to be for the tank.... I'm hooked up to my well water. Should I just
> run the hot water til the smell is gone?
Hi Hunter:
I recently ran into that problem. You can run the hot water until it
doesn't smell anymore or do what I did:
I pulled my anode out and flushed the hot water heater with a little wand
like attachment that fits inside the anode hole. Lots of white gunk came
pouring out and after a few minutes it ran clean. I cleaned my anode and
and put it all back together again.
I've been told I need to drain the hot water tank between trips but I
rarely do unless there is going to be more than a month of storage time
for my fiver.
I suppose I got some heavy mineralized water and it reacted with the
anode since it has never done this before.
----
Paul Hutmacher
pa...@planetfall.net
http://hutmacher.org
steve
"Paul Hutmacher" <pa...@planetfall.net> wrote in message
news:Xns925B8A09566A7...@207.225.159.8...
one@home.com Wade
> Paul, where did you get the attachment? Thanks . Steve
You really don't need any attachment just stick the hose in the hole and
wash it out.
Wade
Paul Hutmacher
> Paul, where did you get the attachment? Thanks . Steve
It was either Camper's Choice or Camping World. It's a small yellow
polyethylene tube about 3/8 inches in diameter and 8 to 12 inches long with
a J like bend in the end. It has a hose fitting and a valve on the other
end.
As someone else pointed out you can also just cram the water hose in there
but I like the extra pressure of the smaller tube and the ability to aim it
around the inside of the tank.
Even though it has a valve on it I always end up spraying myself with it
too :)
steve
will soak themselves...Stevenews:Xns925C63C54E5FC...@207.225.159.8...