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* FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS *
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This is the Folding Trailer (Pop-up) FAQ, which is posted
every month (mid-month) to the rec.outdoors.rv-travel newsgroup.
Please send your inputs, suggestions, changes and additions
to me (curator) at we...@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com.
Wes Fujii
Boise, Idaho
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COPYRIGHT NOTICE
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This FAQ is Copyright (C) 1996 by Wes Fujii and the
members of the UseNet community for their individual
contributions. All rights reserved. Permission is
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Any reproduction or distribution of this FAQ in whole
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to the contrary is obtained from the author.
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DISCLAIMER!
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While the information contained in this FAQ was carefully
collected and compiled to be as accurate as possible,
there are no expressed or implied warranties that the
information contained herein is correct, of any value,
or suitable for any purpose. If you use this information
in any way, you assume full responsibility for the results
of your actions. In no event will the author(s), or others
be liable for any results or the lack thereof.
None of the compilers have any connection with any business
that may be mentioned in the FAQ except possibly as a
satisfied customer unless there is a specific statement to
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Introduction to Folding Trailers (FAQ) Wes Fujii 8/30/96 Ver. 2.10
I. Table of Contents
Section I. Table of Contents
Section II. Introduction (What is a Folding Trailer?)
Section III. What are Typical Folding Trailer Sizes?
Section IV. What Equipment and Accessories are Typical?
Section V. What Lift Systems are Used?
Section VI. What Axle Systems are Typical?
Section VII. What about Construction?
Section VIII. What do the Terms Hardside and Softside
Mean?
Section IX. What Must I Consider for Towing?
Section X. What Other Miscellaneous Technical
Information is Useful?
Section XI. What Special Care is Required for Fabric Side Walls?
Section XII. What are Some of the Things to Consider
When Shopping for a Used Unit?
Section XIII. What Shall I do to Prepare for the First
(maiden voyage) Trip Out?
Section XIV. What Information is there on Folding Trailer
Brands?
Section XV. Final Words
II. Introduction
A. Folding Trailers, Tent Trailers or Pop-ups as they are
commonly called are foldable or collapsible camping
units which typically attempt to approximate many of
the conveniences of a basic travel trailer, while being
of lower cost and easier tow ability than their full
sized counterparts. The usual construction is a
rectangular box on a trailer, with a larger, expanding
tent which is attached to the box. Most modern models
incorporate a rigid roof and lifting system to aid in
setup.
B. Advantages of folding trailers over travel trailers
are mainly in the size departments. Weight and
physical exterior size while being towed are
significantly less, extremely important for those
who are using small or low powered tow vehicles.
With the minimal weight and minimal frontal surface
area, towing is excellent for the occasional user.
Maneuverability of the smaller trailers is very
good, and in many cases there is full viewing
over and around the trailers while towing. Interior
size while set up is remarkably large, especially
compared to the towed size. Folding trailers are
short and low enough to be stored in a garage so
finding storage space while not in use is easier.
C. Advantages of folding trailers over traditional tent
camping are obvious. Once you have camped in a
tent in inclement weather will show you what
advantages there are with being off the ground and
in structured shelter.
III. What are Typical Folding Trailer Sizes?
A. Small - Generally 8 foot box length and under. These
units are the best for very low powered tow vehicles.
Weight of these units typically range from 800-1200
lbs. These are usually basic inside with beds, sink,
table, stove and sometimes an ice cooler.
B. Medium - Generally from 8 foot box length to 10 ft.
These units are the best compromise for those who
want more accessories and more storage room while
still being of reasonable weight and price. Weight of
these units typically range from 1200-1600 lbs. These
units are almost always equipped with everything the
smaller trailers have and in addition often have a
porta-potty, heater, water tanks, closets and storage
areas.
C. Large - Generally anything with a box length over 10
ft. long is considered a large folding trailer. These
units are usually for those who desire more interior
room and the most conveniences. Weight of these units
ranges from 1600 lbs and up, with the well equipped
large ones over 2000 lbs. Accessories on the large
units are only limited by the creativity of the
owner, although ovens, washers and dryers are typically
not among the appliances usually found.
D. Folding trailer lengths reported on registrations usually
indicate the folded length from hitch to rear bumper.
This is usually 3 or 4 ft longer than the box length.
Extended lengths depend on the trailer design and how
long the beds are.
E. Typical box widths are around 6 to 6.5 ft. A few
models are around 7 ft wide or more. There are also
some that are more narrow than 6 ft, but those are
pretty basic. The width of the trailer can greatly
affect the floor plan and spaciousness.
IV. What Equipment and Accessories are Typical?
A. Typical Equipment most commonly found in folding trailers
includes sleeping for 5 or more, sink, table, ice box,
stove, some storage and porta-potty. They usually have
both a 12 volt lighting system and 110 volt plug-in
system. Water can be usually pumped up from an onboard
tank, or more conveniently turned on via faucet from a
hose connected to an exterior water source.
B. Common Accessories include (but are not limited to)
sleeping for 6 to 8, divided sink, inside-outside
table, gas/electric refrigerator, built-in potty, hot
water heater, shower, inside-outside stove or multiple
stoves, closet, mirror, roof vent, forced air heat,
additional drapes or blinds, pantry, spice and
magazine racks. Multiple water sources, electric water
pumps, 110V to 12V converters are common as are
outside awnings, screen rooms and outside lights.
Underneath, spare tire carriers, built-on stabilizers
and built-in water tanks are also common. On top, many
can be equipped with air conditioning, bike and
accessory racks. In front, up to 2 propane tanks and
12V deep cycle battery are often seen. Many of the
larger trailers have large front or rear incorporated
storage areas.
C. Not-so-common but available items include interior
overhead racks/cabinets, double queen sized beds, tandom
axles, doors on both sides and side slide-outs.
V. What Lift Systems are Used?
A. Cable system - One common roof lift system is a
cable and pulley system. Cables are pulled via a
crank or hydraulic cylinder which lifts vertical
assemblies on each corner of the roof.
B. Flexible rod system - Another very common roof lift
system is one which incorporates flexible rods which
push up on the 4 corners of the roof and lift it
straight up. These can also be crank or hydraulic
cylinder actuated.
C. Exterior linkage system - This older style of lift
system is one which incorporates mechanical bars and
pivots exterior to the trailer box. This often
requires manual pivoting and lifting in order to
raise the roof. This system is probably the easiest
to troubleshoot during a failure, although probably
one of the easiest to damage, too.
D. Other - There are miscellaneous other lift systems
that have been used in the past. Some incorporate
a rack and pinion and linkage system, while others
use gear boxes of sorts. Most of these systems are
not used in current model trailers.
VI. What Axle Systems are Typical?
A. Straight Axle - This is a common trailer type axle
which has a fixed member connecting both wheel
spindles. Connection to the trailer frame is
usually via leaf springs on two points per side.
Advantages include more even distribution of the
load on the trailer frame and simple parts and
repairs.
B. Torsion Axle - This is the other common axle type
used. Each wheel spindle is connected to its own
torsion bar/axle assembly. This axle type enables
fully independent suspension with very little
space requirement in a very simple design. Since
the load is not as evenly distributed, this axle
design requires a little more attention for frame
support. The advantages include smoother riding
of the trailer and contents.
VII. What About Construction?
A. Typical construction is a wood-frame box with aluminum
skinned exterior. This is supported on a metal ladder-
style frame. Some manufacturers use metal members in
the box construction. Flooring and bed construction is
usually a waterproof plywood or construction board.
Tenting material can be of various fabrics. Cotton,
vinyl and acrylic are some of the common materials. If
the tenting material is not mildew resistant (or even
if it is, for that matter), it is extremely important
not to store the folding trailer in a closed state with
the tenting wet for an extended period of time. The
sealed, often hot conditions are excellent mold and
mildew promoters. Dry rot of the wood in the box and
roof construction can also be adversely affected with
enclosed moisture while being stored. Most folding
trailers have a hard roof, although there are a few
with a fabric roof. The tenting material is often a
very large one-piece sewn item, although many are built
in sections which are zippered together. Attachment to
the rest of the trailer is via Velcro, snaps, clips and
clever tucked-in folds into custom aluminum extrusions.
B. Most folding trailers open so they extend over the hitch
and out the back with entry from the side. Although
some allow being setup while still being attached to
the tow vehicle, most have to be unhooked before being
set up. There are a few models which open out the
sides with entry either over the tongue or out the
back. These are not as popular these days, especially
when using the typical RV camping site set up for use
with a travel trailer.
VIII. What do the Terms Hardside and Softside Mean?
A. A softsided trailer is a trailer that has only fabric
surrounding the living area of the trailer (which, on
a folding trailer, means above the box). This is the
typical folding trailer description. A hardsided trailer
is one which has rigid walls around the living area.
This describes your typical travel trailer.
B. There are a few hybrid pop-up trailers that are worth
noting. These are the hardside or semi-hardside
versions in a folding trailer package. These have folding
hard sides (and sometimes ends) which eliminates some, if
not all of the tenting.
C. The advantages of hardsides include somewhat warmer
shelter, more protection against wind, support for
items/kids/animals that may lean against a wall, glass
windows (which are optically much better than the flexible
ones), easier to clean than fabric, less movement of the
roof because of better mechanical attachment, less fabric
to tear/rot/rip, less likely to "burn" a hole in the
trailer if an interior light is left on while folded
and are somewhat quieter inside.
D. Disadvantages of hardsides include added weight, greatly
reduced air circulation, possibly more elaborate
assemblies/parts to break, higher overall cost, sometimes
taller folded size and sometimes (not always) more
complicated setup.
IX. What Must I Consider for Towing? (written for newbies)
A. When towing the smallest of folding trailers, often all
that is needed is to hook it up and go. With units
1000 lbs and less, most tow vehicles can handle these
trailers safely. Standard recommended safety equipment
includes safety chains, marker lights, turn signals
and brake lights.
B. Over 1000 lbs, it really depends on the size of the
tow vehicle as to the ease and safety of towing. For
trailers 1500 lbs and over, it is recommended
(sometimes required by law) to have independent wheel
braking on the trailer. Brakes usually come in one of
two styles, surge and electric.
1. A surge braking system is one which hydraulically
actuates the brakes as the brake system senses
pressure on the tow ball in the trailer tongue when
the trailer decelerates against the tow vehicle.
Advantages include simplicity in attachment to the
tow vehicle and fully automatic braking.
Disadvantages include more complicated adjustments,
some amount of "pushing" on the two vehicle while
braking, occasional uneven action when coasting
down hills and inability to actuate the trailer
brakes independently.
2. Electric brakes incorporate electromagnets inside
the brake drums which actuate the brake shoes, in
proportion to the amount of voltage put across the
system. For this system, a brake controller must be
installed in the tow vehicle and connected to the
tow vehicle's braking system. Some systems are
connected directly to the tow vehicle's hydraulic
brake lines. These systems provide smooth, well
controlled stopping but can suffer from leaks or
hydraulic mess. Many vehicles with anti lock brake
systems will not operate efficiently with the
hydraulic type of brake controller. For these
users, an electronic brake controller is necessary.
These units detect when the brake pedal is pressed
and control the trailer braking through the use of
pendulums or accelerometers. Advantages of the
electric brakes are the simplicity of the braking
system and the fact that the trailer brakes can be
actuated independently. Disadvantages include the
fact that the tow vehicle has to be wired for the
electric brakes and that bad wiring can cause a
brake system failure.
C. As with all trailers, one should use safety chains to
connect the trailer to the tow vehicle in the event
that the trailer becomes uncoupled or the tow ball
comes loose. The chains used should be strong enough
to securely connect the trailer to the back of the
vehicle, and should be crossed so the tongue of the
trailer could possibly fall into the cross if it
ever becomes unattached. If the hooks are installed
so they are inverted as they are passed through the
safety hook loops, the hooks are much less likely to
be bounced out in normal use and accidentally
become disconnected. The safety chain slack should be
such to allow full movement without binding, but be off
the ground to avoid unnecessary dragging.
D. In addition to trailer brakes and safety chains, it is
common (and often required) to have a system which
automatically actuates the brakes if the trailer ever
becomes totally disconnected from the tow vehicle.
This is called an emergency breakaway braking system.
X. What Other Miscellaneous Technical Information is Useful?
A. Tires and Wheels - Most folding trailers incorporate small
high-speed trailer wheels. Because the diameter of
these tires is so small, their rotational speed is much
higher than that of most other tires. Tire inflation
and overall condition should be checked frequently.
Often, with the larger folding trailers, these small tires
are operating at near their weight capacity. Care
should be taken not to overload these wheels and axles
when filling water, propane tanks, and storage areas.
At least one manufacturer has tandem axles on their
largest test trailer. Other manufacturers have larger
wheels and tires on their larger units.
B. Wheel Bearings - Because the hard use with the small
wheels, care should be taken to service the wheel
bearings on a regular basis. Wheel bearing packing
with grease is usually recommended at least once a
season or every 2000 miles if used often.
C. Lug Nuts - Wheel lug nuts tend to loosen up on the
small trailer wheels quite frequently, so it is
recommended to check wheel lug nut tightness about
every 500 miles.
XI. What Special Care is requried for Fabric Side Walls?
A. Mold and mildew prevention and treatment-
1. Always ensure that the canvas is absolutely dry when
storing the trailer for long periods of time or in
heat. Moisture that is trapped inside the trailer
while it is folded is a primary cause for undetected
mold/mildew/rot damage.
Mold and mildew can easily grow in some fabrics
or on dirt on the surface of the fabrics. Folding
trailers with wood-box construction are susceptible to
structural problems if wood-rot is allowed to exist,
especially in roof sections.
2. Once mold and mildew is allowed to start, it should be
dealt with as soon as possible. The fabric can be
lightly brushed to remove any loose mold and mildew on
the surface. Then the imbedded mold or mildew should
be treated.
a. If the fabric is strong (see explanation on fabric
strength test), then the mold or mildew may be
killed using a chemical solution. Some people
have reported that a weak bleach solution will do
the trick. A tent and canvas repair establishment
may recommend a commercial mold and mildew treatment.
b. If the fabric is weak, or the mold and mildew damage
is excessive, then chemically treating the fabric
may damage it beyond usefulness. In those cases,
it is highly recommended to seek professional help
from a tent and canvas repair expert.
B. Holes and Tears-
1. Observe the hole or tear and see if you can identify
the source of the damage. Be particularly observant
to check for sharp edges of extrusions, woodwork,
springs and clips. If the source can be located, then
maybe it can be remedied by lightly filing, sanding,
padding or removing the offending object.
2. Repairs can be simple to difficult. It mostly depends
on the condition of the fabric, damage location and
fabric strength.
a. Repairs to strong fabric- Hand stitching, machine
sewing and patching are all common methods of fabric
repair. Your folding trailer dealer may even have
repair kits available for your particular trailer
color and material. You may choose to reinforce the
area during the repairs, if it is in a high-stress
area, say around a corner or near a structural member.
b. Repairs to weak fabric- Hand stitching and patching
are about your only choices of repair. Attempting
to sew weak fabric may get you an even larger hole
as the thread used during the repairs may pull hard
enough to cut through the fabric being repaired. In
other words, you may end up with a large hole, shaped
exactly the same as the path you made as you sewed
on the fabric. There are different styles of
patches that can be used. Patches with an adhesive
may be available (such as an iron-on patch). If you
use an iron-on patch, be sure that your tenting fabric
is of a material that will not melt when it is in
contact with the iron. If an iron-on patch is
something that you would rather not do, you can also
use something similar to a latex tent roofing
material to "paint" the area, then imbed some fabric
into the goo, and "paint" over the top. Once dried,
the latex material is the binding material in the
repair and the imbedded fabric is the strength and
supporting member. Latex paint color may be added
to the latex roofing liquid to help color-match the
area.
C. Seams-
1. Many seams can be re-sewn if the fabric itself is not
torn. For repairs where the fabric is torn next to the
seam, it may be necessary to reinforce the area prior to
re-stitching the seam. It may be necessary to remove the
fabric from the trailer to efficiently conduct the repairs,
however.
2. For seams located where water may enter the trailer, it
may be necessary to waterproof the area after the repairs
are made. Spraying the area with Scotchguard (TM) may
be sufficient, or carefully painting the seam with a
flexible sealant may be required.
D. Fabric strength testing-
1. Testing fabric strength is a destructive test and should
only be conducted if major repairs are necessary and
commercial machine sewing for the repairs is being
considered. The reason for testing fabric strength is
to determine if the fabric is strong enough to withstand
the strong thread stitching involved with commercial
sewing machines used for tent repair. If the fabric is
not strong enough for commercial sewing, repairs should
be done by hand and using patches may be recommended for
major repairs.
2. To test fabric strength, locate an area of single thickness
which is out of the way, not in a stress area and
representative of the remaining tenting fabric. Fold
the fabric over onto itself and squeeze the fold flat
with your fingers. Firmly, attempt to make a tear in
the fold, perpendicular to the fold line using your
fingers in a shearing fashion. If the fabric starts to
tear easily, stop immediately and evaluate your repair
options. If the fabric will not tear using this method,
the fabric should be strong enough to withstand commercial
sewing methods.
3. As mentioned earlier, weak fabric may be unsuitable for
treatment for mold and mildew. Seek professional advise
before treating weak fabric infested with mold or mildew.
E. Sources for moisture inside the folding trailer-
1. Camping in wet weather is an obvious source. Inadequate
seals and seams in the exterior box may be contributors.
Check the corners of the box and roof carefully, looking
for areas that may have pulled apart due to vibration and
age. Rubber seals between the roof and box have a
tendency to shrink in time, thus providing leaks at the
corners. Ensure that the roof latches draw the roof down
enough to compress the seals, especially in the front.
2. Water leaks from plumbing can lead to severe damage if
not taken care of. Always use a water pressure regulator,
and periodically check for pin-hole leaks around fittings,
fixtures and flexible tubing runs.
3. Be aware of the non-obvious. While parking the trailer
in your yard for storage may be convenient, ensure that
your automatic sprinklers do not spray and force water
onto the trailer. You could be unpleasantly surprised
the next time you open the trailer up and find that
your sprinklers have been forcing water into the unit
for extended periods of time. Consider covering the
trailer with a tarp for added protection.