snipped
> A really nice feature of this jury rig vs. a real gauge is the ability
> to set an audible alarm point at whatever temperature you choose.
> Thanks again to whoever suggested this useful tool
> Jim
>
>
Looking forward to further information on how it works.
HD in NY
>I took the RV for a ride today. Ambient temperature was 57 degrees. I got
>readings of 135 to 140 at 55mph. The temp. went up to about 160 on local
>roads and peaked at 190 while I was parking it. Do these numbers look
>suspicious to anyone?
...
You might want to establish the "normal" readings for your rig and the
instrumentation together, then pay attention for deviations from
normal. Assuming that your rig is behaving normally while you make
these observations, and assuming that nothing about the
instrumentation changes (like the sensor working loose), the
"absolute" reading are not important, it is deviation from the normal
pattern which is important.
For example, it is not important that the instrument displays
120-degrees at freeway speed on a flat road in 75-degree air
temperature, when you know that the trans fluid is really 160-degrees.
What IS important is that you know that 120 is the "normal" display
and when the display goes to 150-degree you take some corrective
action.
--RW
Jim, I have one of those Pyrex Thermometers coming as a Christmas
present, and the connector on it looks like it might match some
connectors I have to make an "extension cord". I'll let the group know
what I find when we install it in late January.
It seems your temperatures go up when your torque converter is not
locked, but slipping, which makes sense to me.
Glad to hear it is working for you!
Happy Holidays everybody!
Barrie B
John wrote:
The numbers you have are what I would expect. When I first installed
mine, I was surprised at when the temperature went up and down, still
am. You are getting the same indications as I do with a conversion van.
John
_____________________
JIMinMA. wrote:
snipped
A really nice feature of this jury rig vs. a
real gauge is the ability to set an audible alarm point at whatever
temperature you choose.
Thanks again to whoever suggested this useful
tool Jim
++++++++++++++++=
John wrote:
You are welcome, I looked for a couple years for such a gauge. You can
guess how surprised I was when I found it, just what I wanted and you
can not beat the price. It is a very good quality gauge. I do not
believe it is a "jury rig" though.
John
_______________
HD in NY wrote:
Looking forward to further information on how it works. HD in NY
++++++++++++++
John wrote:
Come on HD, get it installed, it works great and it is accurate. I bet
you don't leave it under the dash either> (g)
I need to thank Buba for that little calander program, only about 350K,
loads fast and does the job, thanks Buba
John
I think I might want one of those things to play with. Where do I find
one, and do I recognize it when I see it?
--
bill
Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
Re: Transmission temp. gauge
John wrote:
Thanks for the information, John. I didn't mean to offend you by calling it
"jury rig".
Jim
My wife procured one in Sears Kitchen Department, in a display with a
bunch of other temperature measuring gadgets. It is in a blister pack
with red card as background, with the display and 6" metal probe showing.
It is Pyrex Accessories Digital Probe Thermometer # 16484. The Sears
kitchen area cherk knew where to send my wife for it....
--
HTH,
Barrie B
> > I think I might want one of those things to play with. Where do I find
> > one, and do I recognize it when I see it?
> >
> > --
> > bill
> Bill,
> I found mine at Sears. Look in the kitchen gadget section. You will
> recognize it when you see it.
What!? I can't get one at WalMart? When available, I prefer repackaged
cheapass Chinese products.
But thanks. I'm going inside the edge of civilization tomorrow, so I'll
check Sears.
Well, that's Sears, 2 - WalMart, 0. I guess I'll go to Sears tomorrow.
Bob
Current email at:
bobgiddings0 at yahoo dot com
++++++++++++++++
John wrote
Bob, my original posts were on alt rv about a couple weeks ago.
John
I'd change it. I think having the cooled temperature is useless.....
--
My opinion,
Barrie B
> Someone later told me the line on the tail
> shaft is the output (hotter) line.
Someone was wrong. The line on the rear of the transmission is the return
from the cooler.
Mark
> Thanks Mark, I guess I can leave it where it is. Does
> anyone know where the sensor is located in a factory
> installation?
It's part of the solenoid body, which is inside the pan.
Mark
Larry wrote:
Someone later told me the line on the tail shaft is the output
(hotter) line.
Someone was wrong. The line on the rear of the transmission is the
return from the cooler.
Mark
Thanks Mark, I guess I can leave it where it is. Does anyone know where
the sensor is located in a factory installation?
Larry
WA4YNS
+++++++++++++
John wrote:
Larry, if your lines connect to the radiator vertically, then its almost
certain that the top line is the discharge from the transmission, and
that is the one you are after. The connection of the probe to the
metal pipe needs to be tight and the probe and tube section needs to be
covered completely and tightly with at least 1/2" thick pipe
insulation.
john
> On Thu, 1 Jan 2004 10:14:49 -0500 (EST), john...@webtv.net
> (john williamson) wrote:
>
>>Larry, if your lines connect to the radiator vertically, then its almost
>>certain that the top line is the discharge from the transmission, and
>>that is the one you are after. The connection of the probe to the
>>metal pipe needs to be tight and the probe and tube section needs to be
>>covered completely and tightly with at least 1/2" thick pipe
>>insulation.
>>john
>
> John, that is just about exactly what I did. I also added
> some thermal transfer gel that is normally used when adding
> a heat sink to am IC. It may dry up and not be of any use
> but I had some around and used it just in case it helps. I
> will check to see if the line goes into the top of the
> radiator on Saturday.
Why not just crank it up, shift the gears 3 or 4 times, turn it off, and
crawl under and see which line has started warming up? Wouldn't that be
the output line without any guessing? That's the method I intend to use
to be sure I put mine on the discharge line.
Tom J
Well, I checked Sears in Warner Robins. They didn't have one. Then I
checked Sears.com - also with no luck.
Thanks again. I'll try that one.
I finally got around to installing the Pyrex thermometer in my truck today. I
have some observations. I did crank it and run through the gears about 5 or 6
times before the front line started warming up, but it was the one. On my 2000
F-250 with V-10, the crossover exhaust pipe is within 2 inches of the
transmission output line to the radiator. If other configurations are like
this, that may explain the fast rise in temperature when parking after driving
awhile.
I found that if I installed the probe on the part of the oil line that is
vertical, I could drill a hole in the floor pan center of the hump and
directly below the dash just in front of the heat duct, and the supplied
wiring would reach a mounting spot just below the left side of the existing
gauges. In this location, it's easy to read wile still watching the road and
there are no shift arms to get in the way of viewing. I drilled the floor pan
with a 5/16 drill and inserted a rubber grommet that was a tight fit to pass
the probe through to the transmission. After adjusting for proper slack
underneath, I applied a piece of 150 MPH duct tape over the lead in wire
inside to hold it in place and to the floor, as well as seal the opening
around the wire. I then fastened the probe to the oil line using 2 half inch
metal "gear" clamps. This, I believe, will give me good heat transfer to the
probe. I then covered the probe and tubing with half inch inside diameter hot
water pipe insulation, followed by wrapping it with heavy duty aluminum foil
for the final cover. Next, I ran the wire behind the access cover under the
steering wheel and brought it out next to the steering wheel on the left side
so it plugs right into the gauge with no other fasteners needed. A 1" X 2"
piece of galvanized metal was applied to the dash with double sided foam tape.
The magnetic back of the gauge then just sticks to the metal. To solve the
problem of the heat from the exhaust pipes, I formed a heat shield from some
heavy gauge galvanized metal I had on hand, and bolted it to the frame using
existing holes in the frame.
If it's not raining all day tomorrow, I'll take it out and run up and down the
hills around here w/o locking up the converter and see how high the gauge
goes. If all works well, I may post the step by step photos I took while doing
the installation. BTW, I have it set to alarm at 200 degrees. Should I raise
or lower this setting? I haven't look up the "normal" operating range of this
transmission yet.
Tom J
> If it's not raining all day tomorrow, I'll take it out and run up and down the
> hills around here w/o locking up the converter and see how high the gauge
> goes. If all works well, I may post the step by step photos I took while doing
> the installation. BTW, I have it set to alarm at 200 degrees. Should I raise
> or lower this setting? I haven't look up the "normal" operating range of this
> transmission yet.
>
> Tom J
I took the "Pyrex" out for a drive today. The outside temp was 50
degrees. I backed out of my drive and drove slowly out of the
neighborhood so the converter wouldn't have a chance to lock up. On the
8% grade at a stop sign going onto the major road, the gage went to 137
degrees. Through the neighborhood after getting up to normal on the
engine heat gage, the Pyrex was staying between 110 & 116 degrees. I got
on a limited exit road and drove several miles with cruise control on
running in overdrive. The gage stayed between 112 & 114 degrees. I came
back into the neighborhood with hills and stop signs and the temp ran
between 112 and 136. It never got above that when backing up hill into
my drive. I let it idle for a couple of minutes before turning it off
and the gage held steady. I know I'll have higher reading when I tow
the trailer, but I'm convinced the high reading some are getting when
parking is because of heat from the exhaust pipe. I'm glad I added the
heat shield between the exhaust and the probe/transmission line.
Tom J
My working email addy is: buzzy daht bee at netzero daht net
--
Thanks,
Barrie B
I checked the gage against air temp and boiling water temp before
getting near the truck with it. My truck does have heavy duty cooling
from the factory. Like I said, no heavy loads yet.
Tom J
Tom J >>
Let us know what they are when you tow, ok?
DSteiner
To confirm that, temporarily remove the heat shield.
I was ask for the photos, so here they are in the raw. Click on Photos,
then click on Slide Show. Each has a brief description. This is a
limited use site, so if too many view today, other will have to wait
another day for it to come back up. BTW, I'm not removing that heat
shield!! I managed to get it fabricated and installed without cutting
myself anywhere. I don't tempt mother nature!!
Tom J
Thanks for posting those great pics! They will be a big help to me.
I'll see if I can photograph my installation on the motorhome when I get
to it, and post those.
--
Regards,
Barrie B
Those photos make what you have done really clear. You have set the new standard
for people who want to display their modifications. Congratulations.
--
Don Dickson
Thanks.
As I've said before, I'm a jack of all trades!! :-)
Tom J
I call you a Master at that one.
HD in FL
AH SHUCKS!! You shouldn't have!
;-)
Tom J