How to Elevate an Electra Glide

[Robert Bolton]

I heard a scrape, scrape, scrape noise today while slowing down to pull
into the parking lot at work today that sounded like pads on rotor. I heard
it again after work as I approached my house. I wear 33db earplugs, so I'm
guessing it's loud. I'm wondering if I have really worn wheel bearings, so
want to raise the bike to check them out. The rotor didn't seem chewed up
but I didn't look at the pads to see if they were shot. I'd been thinking
about the bearings anyway, even before this noise. Any recommendations on
how to raise the front wheel off the ground without having to worry about
the bike falling over? I used to raise my Nighthawk and Concours by setting
them up on their stand, then raising the front with a floor jack under the
engine. I have no stand on the Electra Glide.

Thanks,
--
Robert

[Mark Olson]

I have one of these.

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=144289

I see them up for sale on Craigslist for $50 on a regular basis.
I paid $75 for mine brand new about 10 years ago, and created a custom
adapter for my SV650S out of the all-purpose adapter. I sold my custom
adapter with the SV but still have the lift which I now use without
an adapter to hoist my KLR650 which also has no centerstand.

On many bikes that have frame members running horizontally below the
engine, it is as simple as rolling the lift underneath the bike from
the side and pumping it up. If the engine or suspension parts stick
out beneath the frame, you may have to use the included all-purpose
adapter to get the V-blocks underneath a frame tube or other component
that is safe to lift the bike by. I strongly recommend using the
included safety strap to tie the bike onto the lift, especially if
the bike doesn't sit securely on the rubber-lined crossmembers of
the lift without wobbling. You can also construct your own adapter
out of scrap lumber, which may be necessary if you have clearance
issues.

This type of stand has the benefit of lifting both ends of the bike
simultaneously, but be forewarned that removing either wheel may make
the arrangement unstable, hence the outriggers shown in the picture
that prevent the lift from rotating...

Another often overloooked cheap and easy possibilty is to throw a
couple of ratchet straps over the rafters of your garage and hoist
the front of the bike by wrapping the straps around two suitable
lifting points. Obviously you want to take great care to arrange
where the straps lift the front so they won't shift or come loose,
so the bike doesn't tip over. If you arrange the straps in a wide vee
configuration, and separate them where they are attached to the bike,
there is no danger of the bike tipping.

Finally, there are plenty of stands of various types available on
the market, both custom and general purpose that will lift your bike
safely and securely, if not cheaply.

[Snag]

I have a Sears motorcycle/ATV lift , cost around a c-note . Works great ,
but as Mark said when you remove a wheel watch for balance point changes .
HF also sells one , but I've heard the bolts it's assembled with are junk
and need replacement with quality hardware . I also have a center stand that
came with my '90 Ultra which I will never ever use - if it'll fit your bike
make me an offer+shipping . <<I also have all the chrome bits that cover the
front discs and calipers , I'll never use that stuff either>>
There're also plans out there for a basic lift that's just 2 boards
screwed together with a pipe lever so you can rotate them from lying flat to
up on edge - I've never made one but hear they work well . I think it's
called a "Ricko Lift" . Here's a link
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

[T.J. Higgins]

In article <w4mdnd6-AMkmNjbS...@posted.visi>, Mark Olson wrote:
>
>http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=144289
>
> [...]

>
>Another often overloooked cheap and easy possibilty is to throw a
>couple of ratchet straps over the rafters of your garage and hoist
>the front of the bike by wrapping the straps around two suitable
>lifting points. Obviously you want to take great care to arrange
>where the straps lift the front so they won't shift or come loose,
>so the bike doesn't tip over. If you arrange the straps in a wide vee
>configuration, and separate them where they are attached to the bike,
>there is no danger of the bike tipping.

When using a hydraulic lift such as the above (I have the HF
model), I strongly recommend the ratchet straps over the rafters
as an additional safety measure. Had my bike on the lift and
was torquing on a stubborn bolt when the entire assembly became
unstable. I was barely able to catch it. Since then, ratchet
straps are de rigueur when using the lift.

--
TJH
tjhiggin.at.hiwaay.dot.net
--
TJH
tjhiggin.at.hiwaay.dot.net

[David T. Ashley]

On Thu, 10 May 2012 06:51:22 -0500, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid>
wrote:

>
>I have one of these.
>
>http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=144289

I've found that that style of motorcycle/ATV lift is awkward for bike
maintenance. I've had good luck with this style instead:

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Scissor-Center-Floor-Repair/dp/B003BVYXFI/

I've never used the frame pads on it, but they are pretty cool in that
you can adjust the height of each one individually, so if you have a
frame that isn't the same height at each side you can level it out.

They don't adjust very far, maybe less than an inch, but that is
probably enough.

I use hockey pucks on the platform with the frame pads removed to
catch the rear swingarm where I want to when I'm lubing the chain. The
arrangement isn't overly stable, but it isn't unstable either. The
swingarm could slide off the pucks. If I used the frameholder
thingies it would be very stable.

For front wheel maintenance, if you can catch the frame at the left
and right forward of the CG it should be very stable.

DTA

[Mark Olson]

On 05/10/2012 10:37 AM, David T. Ashley wrote:
> On Thu, 10 May 2012 06:51:22 -0500, Mark Olson<ols...@tiny.invalid>
> wrote:
>>
>>I have one of these.
>>
>>http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=144289
>
> I've found that that style of motorcycle/ATV lift is awkward for bike
> maintenance. I've had good luck with this style instead:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Scissor-Center-Floor-Repair/dp/B003BVYXFI/

Not even remotely comparable, due to the small size of the baseplate and
the size of the lifting surface. Plus the lift I have has the outriggers
for additional stability. As another poster pointed out, putting high
torque on fasteners can result in bikes toppling over unless they are
secured to the lift by straps or braced/hung from overhead as well.

The bottom line is, lots of different tools can get the job done, but it
is up to the person in charge to evaluate the method and ensure that
nothing gets wrecked and nobody gets hurt. A little time spent in
preparation and thinking pays off in reduced amounts of drama.

[David T. Ashley]

On Thu, 10 May 2012 11:08:05 -0500, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid>

The baseplate is actually quite wide, and with the bike in gear (as it
might be for front wheel maintenance), there is pretty good stability.
It won't tolerate an NFL player trying to tackle the bike from the
side, but is is pretty darned stable. It is very far from a
jury-rigged solution.

Phrased a bit differently, it is more stable than you'd think. It
gives 3-point support when you consider the wheel.

The fastener argument is a bit iffy. Let's do some sample
calculations ...

Let's assume that the base is 18 inches wide.

Let's assume you have an 800-lb bike with the CG 20 inches above the
ground. Let's assume the jack is supporting 500 lbs of the weight.

Then to begin to topple the thing sideways, you'd have to counteract
500lbs applied at a distance of 9 inches, or 375 ft-lbs of torque.

QED.

My argument is just "more stable than you'd think".

DTA

[Mark Olson]

On 05/10/2012 12:53 PM, David T. Ashley wrote:

> The baseplate is actually quite wide, and with the bike in gear (as it

Width isn't the problem. How is the bike in gear going to matter when
you have both wheels off the bike? Take another look at my lift and
compare how much fore/aft length is spanned when the outriggers are
deployed. Read what Snag said about COG changes when you take a wheel
off.

[David T. Ashley]

On Thu, 10 May 2012 13:34:30 -0500, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid>
wrote:

With rare exceptions, no sane person ever needs to remove both wheels
from the motorcycle at the same time.

You can remove one, do the work you need to do, then remount it and
move on to the other one.

The CG argument is irrelevant if only one wheel is removed at a time.
The CG will always shift away from the removed wheel, which will make
things more stable rather than less stable with a scissor jack.

I don't claim that a scissor jack is as good of a solution as an ATV
lift. For what it is worth, I have both types of jack and the scissor
jack works better for me.

Also, if I had to remove two wheels, I would actually use two scissor
jacks, but bolt them together on a piece of 1-inch plywood or
something like that (they have bolt holes for that). The ability to
adjust front and rear height independently is a bonus, and you'd have
more room underneath to work with both jacks in place.

DTA

[Mark Olson]

On 5/10/2012 2:57 PM, David T. Ashley wrote:
> On Thu, 10 May 2012 13:34:30 -0500, Mark Olson<ols...@tiny.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>> On 05/10/2012 12:53 PM, David T. Ashley wrote:
>>
>>> The baseplate is actually quite wide, and with the bike in gear (as it
>>
>> Width isn't the problem. How is the bike in gear going to matter when
>> you have both wheels off the bike? Take another look at my lift and
>> compare how much fore/aft length is spanned when the outriggers are
>> deployed. Read what Snag said about COG changes when you take a wheel
>> off.
>
> With rare exceptions, no sane person ever needs to remove both wheels
> from the motorcycle at the same time.

I suppose I qualify as insane by your standards.

WTF gave you the idea you know *anything* about working on bikes, and
that it would be helpful for you to comment on something you obviously
know next to nothing about?

[The Older Gentleman]

David T. Ashley <das...@gmail.com> wrote:

> With rare exceptions, no sane person ever needs to remove both wheels
> from the motorcycle at the same time.

Bollocks.


--
Honda CB400 Four Triumph Street Triple Yamaha Tenere
Suzuki GN250, TS250ERx2, GT500 x2
So many bikes, so little garage space....
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com

[The Older Gentleman]

Another fantasist. *Shrug*.

[Bob Myers]

On Thursday, May 10, 2012 4:33:14 PM UTC-4, Mark Olson wrote:
> On 5/10/2012 2:57 PM, David T. Ashley wrote:

> > With rare exceptions, no sane person ever needs to remove both wheels
> > from the motorcycle at the same time.
>
> I suppose I qualify as insane by your standards.

I hasten to point out that these are COMPLETELY separate issues...;-)

Bob M.

[Bob Myers]

On Thursday, May 10, 2012 1:53:57 PM UTC-4, David T. Ashley wrote:

> Let's assume you have an 800-lb bike with the CG 20 inches above the
> ground. Let's assume the jack is supporting 500 lbs of the weight.
>
> Then to begin to topple the thing sideways, you'd have to counteract
> 500lbs applied at a distance of 9 inches, or 375 ft-lbs of torque.
>
> QED.

It bears repeating: In theory, theory is just like practice.
In practice, of course, they're quite different.

Keeping that in mind, apply some thought and see if you can't imagine some alternative means whereby the situation in which the bike is being supported
by this sort of arrangement could go Very Bad Very Quickly.

Bob M.

[Tom $herman (-_-)]

On 5/10/2012 2:57 PM, David T. Ashley wrote:
>
> With rare exceptions, no sane person ever needs to remove both wheels

> from the motorcycle at the same time.[...]
>
So insane people have a need to remove both wheels at once? ;)

--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731°N, 83.985007°W
Post Free or Die!

[Robert Bolton]

Mine's a 1997. I'll poke around to see what I can find out. A stand would
come in handy for filling/checking the primary oil. Any negatives to having
one? Reduced clearance, obstructions, have to be Arnold S. to use it?
--
Robert

[Robert Bolton]

Thanks Mark,
I was daydreaming about constructing a tripod of sorts and using a come
along to hoist it, but a lift would probably be simpler, I think. Hanging
800 pounds from the house scares me a little. Stability is what's on my
mind.

I've been running out of gas after work lately, so didn't look at the bike
today to find the noise. I took the wife to the doctor then passed out. I
get severely cold and fatigued at the end of the work day since I started
exercising. Not eating enough, probably. It sounds as simple as shot pads,
but I'm puzzled as the noise didn't appear to change when I applied the
brake.

The wheel bearings were making a little whir last season in a lean, so I
was thinking I should look at them someday. Time for a lift.
--
Robert

[Robert Bolton]

David T. Ashley <das...@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Thu, 10 May 2012 13:34:30 -0500, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>> On 05/10/2012 12:53 PM, David T. Ashley wrote:
>>
>>> The baseplate is actually quite wide, and with the bike in gear (as it
>>
>> Width isn't the problem. How is the bike in gear going to matter when
>> you have both wheels off the bike? Take another look at my lift and
>> compare how much fore/aft length is spanned when the outriggers are
>> deployed. Read what Snag said about COG changes when you take a wheel
>> off.
>
> With rare exceptions, no sane person ever needs to remove both wheels
> from the motorcycle at the same time.
>

Funny you should mention that. I set my Honda Nighthawk on its stand, then
used the floor jack under the engine to raise and remove the front wheel.
Once removed, I then lowered the floor jack with insane idea of raising the
rear wheel high enough to remove it without removing the rear fender. I
lowered the front far enough for the CG to get on the wrong side of the
stand, which then folded up. The bike fell over onto its side, but without
damage as it landed on soft material laying beside it. There was no getting
it back up with the front wheel removed, so I removed the rear with the
bike on its side, took them both to the dealer for new tires and balancing,
reinstalled both wheels, and finally stood the bike back up. Lesson
Learned. When the Concours needed tires, I R&R'd the front, then R&R'd the
rear.

> You can remove one, do the work you need to do, then remount it and
> move on to the other one.
>
> The CG argument is irrelevant if only one wheel is removed at a time.
> The CG will always shift away from the removed wheel, which will make
> things more stable rather than less stable with a scissor jack.
>

What I would do, is raise the bike to the point the wheel is neither
supporting nor hanging from the bike, disconnect the wheel, then raise the
bike as required to roll the wheel out. No sudden shifting that way, and
not a lot of effort to support the wheel while removing the axle bolt.

> I don't claim that a scissor jack is as good of a solution as an ATV
> lift. For what it is worth, I have both types of jack and the scissor
> jack works better for me.
>

I could see one being more preferable than the other depending upon the
task at hand. One thing's for sure, the last thing I'd want is for that
hog to fall over.

--
Robert

[KKHS]

On May 10, 3:57 pm, David T. Ashley <dash...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 10 May 2012 13:34:30 -0500, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid>
> wrote:
>
> >On 05/10/2012 12:53 PM, David T. Ashley wrote:
>
> >> The baseplate is actually quite wide, and with the bike in gear (as it
>
> >Width isn't the problem.  How is the bike in gear going to matter when
> >you have both wheels off the bike?  Take another look at my lift and
> >compare how much fore/aft length is spanned when the outriggers are
> >deployed.  Read what Snag said about COG changes when you take a wheel
> >off.
>
> With rare exceptions, no sane person ever needs to remove both wheels
> from the motorcycle at the same time.

Ha. Thanks for my laugh of the day!

[KKHS]

On May 11, 3:16 am, Robert Bolton <robertboltond...@gci.net> wrote:

> David T. Ashley <dash...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Thu, 10 May 2012 13:34:30 -0500, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid>
> > wrote:
>
> >> On 05/10/2012 12:53 PM, David T. Ashley wrote:
>
> >>> The baseplate is actually quite wide, and with the bike in gear (as it
>
> >> Width isn't the problem.  How is the bike in gear going to matter when
> >> you have both wheels off the bike?  Take another look at my lift and
> >> compare how much fore/aft length is spanned when the outriggers are
> >> deployed.  Read what Snag said about COG changes when you take a wheel
> >> off.
>
> > With rare exceptions, no sane person ever needs to remove both wheels
> > from the motorcycle at the same time.
>
> Funny you should mention that. I set my Honda Nighthawk on its stand, then
> used the floor jack under the engine to raise and remove the front wheel.
> Once removed, I then lowered the floor jack with insane idea of raising the
> rear wheel high enough to remove it without removing the rear fender. I
> lowered the front far enough for the CG to get on the wrong side of the
> stand, which then folded up. The bike fell over onto its side, but without
> damage as it landed on soft material laying beside it. There was no getting
> it back up with the front wheel removed, so I removed the rear with the
> bike on its side, took them both to the dealer for new tires and balancing,
> reinstalled both wheels, and finally stood the bike back up. Lesson
> Learned. When the Concours needed tires, I R&R'd the front, then R&R'd the
> rear.

My Harley dealer is 55 miles away. My Ducati dealer is 62 miles
away. I can assure you that - with the same type of lift that Mark
Olson referenced - I have no problem removing both front and rear
wheels of any of my five bikes to take them to the dealer for tire
replacement. The bike is stable and happy as a clam with both wheels
off. None of my bikes have fallen off the lift. I do, as Mark
suggested, use tie-downs to secure the bike to the lift.

Heck, the last time I had a bike on the lift, I removed the front and
rear wheels, the fuel tank, the front forks, the fairing, the rear
fender, the exhaust system, the swingarm, the rear shock, the tail
section, the horn, the front and rear brake systems, the front
fender, the mirrors, the windshield, the front fairing support, the
headlight, the taillight, the license plate, the rear tire hugger, the
chain, the footpegs, the foot controls, the instruments, the hand
controls, the switchgear, and even the throttle cable.

I must be INSANE!

[KKHS]

On May 11, 3:16 am, Robert Bolton <robertboltond...@gci.net> wrote:

Robert, my brake rotors whir in hard cornering; the front end on the
FLHXI is flexy (ha, get it?) enough that the rotors touch the
(retracted) pads when I put enough side loading on the front end.
Just an fyi.

Tim

[Snag]

I can't answer as to plusses or negatives on the center stand . I was
surprised to find it in the box of stuff that came with the bike - I didn't
know they made 'em . Arms as big around as telephone poles would probably be
a plus ...

[Vito]

"Robert Bolton" <robertbo...@gci.net> wrote...
| ....... Any recommendations on

| how to raise the front wheel off the ground without having to worry
about
| the bike falling over?

Go with an accessory stand for any major work but you can gently raise the
front OR rear tire off the ground on the Jiffy (side) Stand and the other
tire using a simple bottle jack. I've even changed a front wheel bearing
that way in a pinch - with a couple guys to steady the bike. A strap to
the garage rafters isn't a bad idea either but to just lift a wheel enough
to spin it ..... prolly overkill. YMMV.

[David T. Ashley]

You seem open-minded, so let me review the arguments that have been
made by the other posters.

a)Mark Olson argued that the ATV jack is superior a scissor jack.

I don't really dispute that, so long as one has a custom jig or
something to secure the bike to the ATV jack. I found out with my
Honda that an ATV jack wouldn't lift it properly (L-R asymmetrical
frame, frame not the lowest piece on the bike).

However a scissor jack works great.

The ability to remove both wheels at one time could be an advantage,
but most motorcycle maintenance is characterized by removing one wheel
at a time.

b)The argument of L-R stability has been made.

A scissor jack is just as stable as a center stand, and even more so
because it has a slightly wider base.

c)The argument of stability problems because the CG shifts when
removing a wheel has been made.

That argument only applies to either an ATV jack or to using two
scissor jacks. With one scissor jack, the jack has to be positioned
between the CG and the wheel being serviced. Removing the wheel still
leaves the CG between the remaining wheel and the scissor jack. Not
an issue.

d)The argument of Front-Back stability has been made (indirectly by
Bob M. I believe).

This is absolutely an issue.

When servicing the front wheel, I wouldn't worry about it too much if
the bike is in gear.

But when servicing the rear wheel, this is definitely a concern. It
is stable, but it wouldn't take a really hard hit.

Most scissor jacks have have outriggers and holes to mount them down
to a concrete floor or other service ... definitely a good idea.

Chocks are a good idea.

If using two scissor jacks, I would definitely bolt them both down to
steel stock or to thick plywood or to thick plywood reinforced with
steel stock. But doing this becomes as much trouble as making a
custom jig for an ATV jack.

e)I made the argument that two scissor jacks properly secured may have
an advantage over an ATV jack.

That is still my position. There is more room to work underneath the
bike.

But a custom welded jig for an ATV jack where you've inserted maybe 6"
of standoff distance might be just as good.

f)The argument was made that torqueing bolts may cause instability. I
pointed out that the torques required to do this would be in the
hundred of foot-pounds, so this isn't a realistic concern.

g)The argument was made that I have no real experience working on
bikes so I don't know what I'm talking about.

This is really a non sequitur argument--no relevance.

This is typically how the folks on this newsgroup behave when they are
frustrated because another poster doesn't agree with them. In full
classic form, they would also typically insinuate that my romantic
partner was a man.

So, my general advice to you ...

1)A scissor jack is just fine for what you're doing. If you want to
be extra-cautious, chock the rear wheel and bolt the jack down. But
it is pretty darned stable in any case.

2)An ATV jack may create more work for you because the jack won't
always work well without making a custom jig, and if you're going to
lift the whole bike (unnecessary), tie-down straps are advised (again,
more work).

3)Every person has to do what they are comfortable with. If the
scissor jack makes you nervous, go with an ATV jack. But why don't
you buy a scissor jack (they are cheap--see the Amazon link in my
earlier post)? You might buy one just to try it out and see if you're
comfortable with it.

A hell of a lot of accidents in this world are caused by coercing
folks to do things that they don't believe are prudent. Do what you
are comfortable with ...

Take care, Dave A.

[TOG@Toil]

On May 11, 12:59 pm, KKHS <krustykritterharryspra...@gmail.com> wrote:


> Heck, the last time I had a bike on the lift, I removed the front and
> rear wheels, the fuel tank, the front forks, the fairing, the rear
> fender, the exhaust system, the swingarm, the rear shock, the tail
> section, the  horn, the front and rear brake systems, the front
> fender, the mirrors, the windshield, the front fairing support, the
> headlight, the taillight, the license plate, the rear tire hugger, the
> chain, the footpegs, the foot controls, the instruments, the hand
> controls, the switchgear, and even the throttle cable.
>

I'm trying to figure out what was left. :-))

I have it as a frame, an engine and carbs, the bars and (most of) the
wiring loom.

[Tom $herman (-_-)]

On 5/11/2012 7:26 AM, Snag wrote:
> I can't answer as to plusses or negatives on the center stand . I was
> surprised to find it in the box of stuff that came with the bike - I didn't
> know they made 'em . Arms as big around as telephone poles would probably be
> a plus ...

Or a gorilla for a roommate.

[Tom $herman (-_-)]

On 5/11/2012 2:16 AM, Robert Bolton wrote:
> Thanks Mark,
> I was daydreaming about constructing a tripod of sorts and using a come
> along to hoist it, but a lift would probably be simpler, I think. Hanging
> 800 pounds from the house scares me a little. Stability is what's on my

> mind.[...]

800 pounds is less than the design snow load on a 5' by 6' section of
roof, so if the bike is too heavy to hand from the roof truss, you have
bigger issues.

[Calgary (Don)]

On 11/05/2012 1:16 AM, Robert Bolton wrote:
> The wheel bearings were making a little whir last season in a lean, so I
> was thinking I should look at them someday. Time for a lift.

First, how the heck are you Robert. Glad to see you survived another
Alaskan winter.

I bought one of these last year.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/LiftingEquipment/PRD~0091015P/MotoMaster+1%2C500+lb+Motorcycle+Jack.jsp?locale=en
or
http://tinyurl.com/798ef6b

Rule of thumb never buy anything from Canadian Tire at regular price.
Wait five minutes and it will be on sale for half price.

The lift works great. It's very easy to use and also quite stable. I
strap the bike down. Four straps on the four corners. Last weekend I
took the rear tire off and with the bike at full lift and strapped down
securely, it didn't move as I took the tire off.

You probably already know about this site, but if not there are a lot of
good step by step basic maintenance procedures c/w descriptive photos.
http://www.moccsplace.com/harley.htm

Mike posts in several of the HD forums.



--
Disclaimer
Do not believe a thing I have said, unless you already know it to be
true, or can independently verify it from another source.

See Ya On The Road

[High Plains Thumper]

Robert Bolton wrote:

Trailer it! :->

> Any recommendations on how to raise the front wheel off the ground

> without having to worry about the bike falling over? I used to raise
> my Nighthawk and Concours by setting them up on their stand, then
> raising the front with a floor jack under the engine. I have no
> stand on the Electra Glide.

No, seriously, I bought a Craftsman motorcycle jack from Sears some
years back for a little over a hundred US dollars on sale. It has been
very useful, has straps to steady the bike to the jack.

Depending on the bike, you may have to manufacture shims for leveling
the bike onto the jack's platform. I use pieces of wood.

--
HPT

[The Older Gentleman]

Was it you who ingeniously used bits of wood to secure a Harley clutch
or something? Or was that RGD? I remember being mightly impressed.

--
Honda CB400 Four Triumph Street Triple Yamaha Tenere
Suzuki GN250, TS250ERx2

[High Plains Thumper]

The Older Gentleman wrote:

> High Plains Thumper wrote:
>
>> Depending on the bike, you may have to manufacture shims for
>> leveling the bike onto the jack's platform. I use pieces of wood.
>
> Was it you who ingeniously used bits of wood to secure a Harley

> clutch or something? Or was that RGD? I remember being mightily
> impressed.

Must have been RGD because it wasn't me.

--
HPT

[Tom $herman (-_-)]

On 5/12/2012 10:20 AM, WaIIy wrote:

> On Fri, 11 May 2012 21:56:04 -0500, "Tom $herman (-_-)"
> <""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI$southslope.net"> wrote:
>
>> On 5/11/2012 2:16 AM, Robert Bolton wrote:
>>> Thanks Mark,
>>> I was daydreaming about constructing a tripod of sorts and using a come
>>> along to hoist it, but a lift would probably be simpler, I think. Hanging
>>> 800 pounds from the house scares me a little. Stability is what's on my
>>> mind.[...]
>>
>> 800 pounds is less than the design snow load on a 5' by 6' section of
>> roof, so if the bike is too heavy to hand from the roof truss, you have
>> bigger issues.
>

> Your post is absurd. Will I tell you why? It would be a waste of time.

Yes, it would be a waste, since your analysis is undoubtedly incorrect.

[Robert Bolton]

That's a thought. Thx. I could probably use the floor jack to raise the
bike and slip 2x4s under it as I go, too. My garage is finished, so I can't
loop around anything.
--
Robert

[Robert Bolton]

David T. Ashley <das...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> This is typically how the folks on this newsgroup behave when they are
> frustrated because another poster doesn't agree with them. In full
> classic form, they would also typically insinuate that my romantic
> partner was a man.
>

It could be worse; you could be John Travolta. But I know what you mean.

> So, my general advice to you ...
>
> 1)A scissor jack is just fine for what you're doing. If you want to
> be extra-cautious, chock the rear wheel and bolt the jack down. But
> it is pretty darned stable in any case.
>
> 2)An ATV jack may create more work for you because the jack won't
> always work well without making a custom jig, and if you're going to
> lift the whole bike (unnecessary), tie-down straps are advised (again,
> more work).
>
> 3)Every person has to do what they are comfortable with. If the
> scissor jack makes you nervous, go with an ATV jack. But why don't
> you buy a scissor jack (they are cheap--see the Amazon link in my
> earlier post)? You might buy one just to try it out and see if you're
> comfortable with it.
>
> A hell of a lot of accidents in this world are caused by coercing
> folks to do things that they don't believe are prudent. Do what you
> are comfortable with ...
>
> Take care, Dave A.

I found a You Tube video of a Pitbull motorcycle lift today. It's a $400
version of what you're calling an ATV jack. Harley sells one a lot like it.
I can't figure out how to paste in the link with this IPad, but search for
it. If a slightly chubby dirty-blond chick opens the vid, that's the one.

The scissor jack you showed would work just fine for a front wheel lift, as
the jack would give side stability while the jack and rear wheel would
provide front to rear stability. Tranny in gear.

I'll probably go with the ATV version just because it will work for both
ends. I'm too cheap for the Pitbull, but will find something similar.

--
Robert

[Robert Bolton]

"Calgary (Don)" <actual.rider***r...@telus.net> wrote:
> On 11/05/2012 1:16 AM, Robert Bolton wrote:
>> The wheel bearings were making a little whir last season in a lean, so I
>> was thinking I should look at them someday. Time for a lift.
>
> First, how the heck are you Robert. Glad to see you survived another Alaskan winter.
>
> I bought one of these last year.
> http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/LiftingEquipment/PRD~0091015P/MotoMaster+1%2C500+lb+Motorcycle+Jack.jsp?locale=en
> or
> http://tinyurl.com/798ef6b
>
> Rule of thumb never buy anything from Canadian Tire at regular price.
> Wait five minutes and it will be on sale for half price.
>
> The lift works great. It's very easy to use and also quite stable. I
> strap the bike down. Four straps on the four corners. Last weekend I took
> the rear tire off and with the bike at full lift and strapped down
> securely, it didn't move as I took the tire off.
>
> You probably already know about this site, but if not there are a lot of
> good step by step basic maintenance procedures c/w descriptive photos.
> http://www.moccsplace.com/harley.htm
>
> Mike posts in several of the HD forums.
>
>

It's good to hear from you Don. I'm doing fine, but getting pretty lazy
these days. I'm running Sue to the Dr for lung issues, going to the Dr for
a bad knee, trying to move some plants around to make room for more food
garden, needing to replace an outside faucet that split over the winter,
and getting ready to check out my bike. I'm moving at a snail's pace I'm
afraid.

I'm still waiting for summer, this week we've got a cold wind blowing in
from the Gulf of Alaska. It was 42f at the house yesterday PM, and was
about 44 today. 10 degrees below the average. My first day at work here was
May 15, 1978, and I walked to work in shirt sleeves with the sun shining
and green leaves on the trees. The trees are budding now, but full leaves
won't be here for awhile at this rate.

I think I saw that jack on Amazon today, as it had pretty much the same
dimensions. Some reviewers said the pads were too short for their frame,
but Harley folks said it fit their bike fine. The trouble with the net is
half the reviewers will say something is the greatest while the other half
calls the same thing junk. I'm going to run around a little to see if I
can find anything in town, but will probably strike out.

Thx for the reference.

--
Robert

[Robert Bolton]

High Plains Thumper <h...@invalid.invalid> wrote:

I picked up the NAPA version today, for a mere $248. Sears had two models;
the triangle one for $199 that flexed a bit too much on a You Tube vid I
saw, and the one you probably have for either $129 or $139. Sears online
prices aren't valid up here. They had the triangle one in stock, but had
only a display model of the other, and it was bent up. The NAPA one is
similar, but the bottom frame wraps around both sides of the front wheels
instead of just the inside, the locking mechanism is inside the lower frame
instead of outside and the stops that the lock grabs are a sharper V, and
the foot pads are wider. Oh, the rear wheels don't lock, but do have the
screw-in stops.

My Electra Glide was just a little low for the advertised 4 1/4"
clearance, but it didn't take much lifting to slip the jack in. The bike
was a little tail heavy when I centered the jack on the frame, so I'll
place it a little farther back next time. As it was, I had to tie the front
down to raise the rear wheel. The bike wasn't contacting the lift on all
four points, but was pretty close. The jack flexed more than I liked, but
it dawned on me later that I should have lifted the bike higher so I could
then set it down on the lock stops. That would have stabilized each pad
instead of allowing them to seesaw around the bottle jack connection point.
Lowering was a little scary, as even a light touch resulted in the bike
dropping like a rock. I might try manipulating the bleed valve with my hand
instead of foot to next time. It might be scary lowering onto the lock
stops at free fall too. I'm satisfied though

My front bearings are a little loose, but not nearly as loose as the ones
were on my Concours. I did see fresh rub marks on my front tire. It turns
out the power cable supplying the fender light has bent out toward the
tire, and is rubbing lightly on the tire. The inside brake pads are worn
down to about 1/8" thick. They make a bit of noise when I spin the tire.
Perhaps the caliper piston doesn't retract as far as it used to. Front
brakes are much louder than rear on freewheel hand spin. I didn't see
anything life threatening, but it's time for new pads.

I was going to take a spin sans earplugs to really hear what was going on
but I ran the battery dead from cranking with the kill switch ON. I didn't
crank that long, but battery voltage fell mysteriously last week from
around 13 to 12 volts. Not sure why, as all was well the week before. Given
the battery was apparently undercharged, I have yet another issue. Step No.
1 will be to find my stinking voltmeter, which seems to have gone into
hiding.

Anyway, new toy!

--
Robert

[TOG@Toil]

On May 14, 8:33 am, Robert Bolton <robertboltond...@gci.net> wrote:


> the power cable supplying the fender light

The what?

[David T. Ashley]

Where are you located? I could easily sell you mine, which never
received a lot of use.

DTA

[Ronald O. Christian]

On Thu, 10 May 2012 08:14:17 -0500, "Snag" <snag...@comcast.net>
wrote:

> There're also plans out there for a basic lift that's just 2 boards
>screwed together with a pipe lever so you can rotate them from lying flat to
>up on edge - I've never made one but hear they work well . I think it's
>called a "Ricko Lift" . Here's a link
>http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm

I made one of those, used it for years with the Sportster. It seemed
solid and stable every time I used it. I still have it, but I haven't
been able to make myself trust it with the Ultra. I got a real
hydraulic lift instead.

The only disadvantage of the full size lift is that it gets in the way
sometimes. Also the business end of the lift is just slightly wider
than the frame, so positioning is vital.


Ron
-
2003 FLHTCUI "Noisy Glide"
http://www.christianfamilywebsite.com
http://www.ronaldchristian.com

[Ronald O. Christian]

On Mon, 14 May 2012 01:09:57 -0500, Robert Bolton
<robertbo...@gci.net> wrote:

> My garage is finished, so I can't
>loop around anything.

A five pound sledge will expose a ceiling beam in no time...

[Mark Olson]

On 05/14/2012 02:33 AM, Robert Bolton wrote:

> I picked up the NAPA version today, for a mere $248. Sears had two models;
> the triangle one for $199 that flexed a bit too much on a You Tube vid I
> saw, and the one you probably have for either $129 or $139. Sears online
> prices aren't valid up here. They had the triangle one in stock, but had
> only a display model of the other, and it was bent up. The NAPA one is
> similar, but the bottom frame wraps around both sides of the front wheels
> instead of just the inside, the locking mechanism is inside the lower frame
> instead of outside and the stops that the lock grabs are a sharper V, and
> the foot pads are wider. Oh, the rear wheels don't lock, but do have the
> screw-in stops.

Too bad you didn't check out Lowes (three locations in Anchorage), you
could have saved yourself $150. Looks to be nearly the identical item
under a different brand name.

And neither one has the nice outrigger stabilizers that my $75 Larin
brand lift has. Not that I use them much, but nice to know they are
there.

Kobalt 3/4 Ton ATV/Motorcycle Jack
Item #: 11304 | Model #: 85003

3 reviews | Write a review
$96.36

FREE
Store Pickup
Your order can be available for pickup in Lowe's Of Anchorage, AK today.

[Calgary (Don)]

I feel like I move a little slower every year, but eventually I get
where I want to go. Take care of yourself and Sue

>
> I'm still waiting for summer, this week we've got a cold wind blowing in
> from the Gulf of Alaska. It was 42f at the house yesterday PM, and was
> about 44 today. 10 degrees below the average. My first day at work here was
> May 15, 1978, and I walked to work in shirt sleeves with the sun shining
> and green leaves on the trees. The trees are budding now, but full leaves
> won't be here for awhile at this rate.

Heh, heh, heh, the grass is green here and our trees are just leafing
out. I didn't know we are that close to Alaska, well at least as far as
spring weather goes.

>
> I think I saw that jack on Amazon today, as it had pretty much the same
> dimensions. Some reviewers said the pads were too short for their frame,
> but Harley folks said it fit their bike fine. The trouble with the net is
> half the reviewers will say something is the greatest while the other half
> calls the same thing junk. I'm going to run around a little to see if I
> can find anything in town, but will probably strike out.

It's a decent jack for the money. CT regularly puts it on sale for half
price. It fits my Road King just nicely. I installed the True Track on
the RK last fall and the jack fits neatly under the frame and in front
of the True Track. That also seems to be the perfect balancing point. I
use four ratchet tie down straps to secure the bike to the jack.

Motovan used to sell a more robust version that came equipped with
outriggers. I liked that style but never bought one. If I recall it
retailed around $250.00.

>
> Thx for the reference.
>
All a part of the service we provide.

Stay well.

[Robert Bolton]

KKHS <krustykritte...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 11, 3:16 am, Robert Bolton <robertboltond...@gci.net> wrote:
>> Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
>>> On 05/10/2012 02:44 AM, Robert Bolton wrote:
>>>> I heard a scrape, scrape, scrape noise today while slowing down to pull
>>>> into the parking lot at work today that sounded like pads on rotor. I heard
>>>> it again after work as I approached my house. I wear 33db earplugs, so I'm
>>>> guessing it's loud. I'm wondering if I have really worn wheel bearings, so
>>>> want to raise the bike to check them out. The rotor didn't seem chewed up
>>>> but I didn't look at the pads to see if they were shot. I'd been thinking
>>>> about the bearings anyway, even before this noise. Any recommendations on
>>>> how to raise the front wheel off the ground without having to worry about
>>>> the bike falling over? I used to raise my Nighthawk and Concours by setting
>>>> them up on their stand, then raising the front with a floor jack under the
>>>> engine. I have no stand on the Electra Glide.
>>
>>

...

>> The wheel bearings were making a little whir last season in a lean, so I
>> was thinking I should look at them someday. Time for a lift.
>
> Robert, my brake rotors whir in hard cornering; the front end on the
> FLHXI is flexy (ha, get it?) enough that the rotors touch the
> (retracted) pads when I put enough side loading on the front end.
> Just an fyi.
>
> Tim

Got it :). Yes, with the stand I was able to see there's nothing radical
going on. I'll probably screw around with the front bearings this winter.
If memory serves, they supposed to be greased occasionally.

--
Robert

[Robert Bolton]

David T. Ashley <das...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 14 May 2012 01:09:57 -0500, Robert Bolton
> <robertbo...@gci.net> wrote:
>
>> David T. Ashley <das...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> This is typically how the folks on this newsgroup behave when they are
>>> frustrated because another poster doesn't agree with them. In full
>>> classic form, they would also typically insinuate that my romantic
>>> partner was a man.
>>>
>>
>> It could be worse; you could be John Travolta. But I know what you mean.
>>
>>
>>> So, my general advice to you ...
>>>
>>> 1)A scissor jack is just fine for what you're doing. If you want to
>>> be extra-cautious, chock the rear wheel and bolt the jack down. But
>>> it is pretty darned stable in any case.
>>>
>>>
>>

>> I'll probably go with the ATV version just because it will work for both
>> ends. I'm too cheap for the Pitbull, but will find something similar.
>
> Where are you located? I could easily sell you mine, which never
> received a lot of use.
>
> DTA

I'm in Anchorage, Alaska. I'm not sure what shipping would cost, but it
would probably be cost prohibitive. Tools like this last a long time, as
they don't get used all that often.

--
Robert

[Robert Bolton]

Yup. My Electra Glide has an opal lensed light on the front tip of the
front fender. It's right above the chrome grill.
--
Robert

[Robert Bolton]

You know, it never even occurred to me to check Lowes. Their site says the
Tudor Rd store has one in stock, too. The Kobalt has the locking arms on
the outside of the frame, which is more like the Sears. From looking
around, these guys are all pretty much the same, with just minor
variations.
--
Robert

[Tom $herman (-_-)]

On 5/11/2012 6:59 AM, KKHS wrote:
> On May 11, 3:16 am, Robert Bolton<robertboltond...@gci.net> wrote:
>> David T. Ashley<dash...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Thu, 10 May 2012 13:34:30 -0500, Mark Olson<ols...@tiny.invalid>
>>> wrote:
>>
>>>> On 05/10/2012 12:53 PM, David T. Ashley wrote:
>>
>>>>> The baseplate is actually quite wide, and with the bike in gear (as it
>>
>>>> Width isn't the problem. How is the bike in gear going to matter when
>>>> you have both wheels off the bike? Take another look at my lift and
>>>> compare how much fore/aft length is spanned when the outriggers are
>>>> deployed. Read what Snag said about COG changes when you take a wheel
>>>> off.
>>
>>> With rare exceptions, no sane person ever needs to remove both wheels
>>> from the motorcycle at the same time.
>>
>> Funny you should mention that. I set my Honda Nighthawk on its stand, then
>> used the floor jack under the engine to raise and remove the front wheel.
>> Once removed, I then lowered the floor jack with insane idea of raising the
>> rear wheel high enough to remove it without removing the rear fender. I
>> lowered the front far enough for the CG to get on the wrong side of the
>> stand, which then folded up. The bike fell over onto its side, but without
>> damage as it landed on soft material laying beside it. There was no getting
>> it back up with the front wheel removed, so I removed the rear with the
>> bike on its side, took them both to the dealer for new tires and balancing,
>> reinstalled both wheels, and finally stood the bike back up. Lesson
>> Learned. When the Concours needed tires, I R&R'd the front, then R&R'd the
>> rear.
>
> My Harley dealer is 55 miles away. My Ducati dealer is 62 miles
> away. I can assure you that - with the same type of lift that Mark
> Olson referenced - I have no problem removing both front and rear
> wheels of any of my five bikes to take them to the dealer for tire
> replacement. The bike is stable and happy as a clam with both wheels
> off. None of my bikes have fallen off the lift. I do, as Mark
> suggested, use tie-downs to secure the bike to the lift.

>
> Heck, the last time I had a bike on the lift, I removed the front and
> rear wheels, the fuel tank, the front forks, the fairing, the rear
> fender, the exhaust system, the swingarm, the rear shock, the tail
> section, the horn, the front and rear brake systems, the front
> fender, the mirrors, the windshield, the front fairing support, the
> headlight, the taillight, the license plate, the rear tire hugger, the
> chain, the footpegs, the foot controls, the instruments, the hand
> controls, the switchgear, and even the throttle cable.
>

> I must be INSANE!

If I got that far, I think I would go all the way including paint. Get
a nice anti-corrosion bath treatment and new powder coating.