welding aluminum
tomorrowat...@yahoo.com
1. Do you HAVE to start with mild steel, become expert at welding it,
and then move up to welding aluminum?
2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
trade classes on welding?
Anything else you might like to add; I'm all ears.
Thanks,
Tim (ready, willing, and anxious to learn to weld after 30+ years of
just wrenching)
S'mee
<tomorrowaterolsdot...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> So a few questions for you welding savvy folks:
>
> 1. Do you HAVE to start with mild steel, become expert at welding it,
> and then move up to welding aluminum?
I would suggest it, for devoloping muscle memory if nothing else and
no I never has the opportunity to weld aluminium.
> 2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
> expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
You haven't looked it up yet? Yes you really do need more than one
rig... MIG set up, maybe a TIG and an old school wire welder or stick
welder. Not cheap to get set up.
> 3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
Nope, got all my stuff at school.
> 4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
> trade classes on welding?
VERY, VERY and I'll say it again VERY Important. Better to learn from
somebody than teach yourself, much like motorcycles.
> Anything else you might like to add; I'm all ears.
Remember no part you just welded or cut is HOT rather "it just didn't
take long to check it out" 8^) TMSAISTI
> Tim (ready, willing, and anxious to learn to weld after 30+ years of
> just wrenching)
So what unobtanium part did you break that a used one isn't available?
8^)
Jack Hunt
>1. Do you HAVE to start with mild steel, become expert at welding it,
>and then move up to welding aluminum?
It's advisable. Welding aluminum is quite difficult to master and almost
impossible to teach yourself.
>2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
>expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
A MIG outfit can be used for most things, aluminum included. You can't use a
stick welder on aluminum. You have to start out with a certain voltage and dial
that back as your piece gets hotter and hotter. Without backing down the heat,
you'll think you're really doing well and a great big chunk will just fall out
where you've just welded. You can't read the temperature of your work by color,
like you can most steel.
A few years ago I bought a plasma cutter. Great, great tool. Cuts almost any
metal you're likely to encounter, even stainless steel.
>4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
>trade classes on welding?
Absolutely essential. This is not something you can teach yourself. You need
the basic theory, and the how-to for the different materials and types of rigs.
Once you get that, it's all practice which you can do in your shop. But there's
no substitute for getting the basic theory from a pro. Much of the basic stuff
you'll learn by watching somebody else do it as they explain what they're doing
and why. Then you'll need some time of practicing with someone watching, to
point out technique errors and to make suggestions.
Thirty years ago I took a 3 month night class through a vocational school, two
hours a night for two nights a week. I liked it so well I took it again for
some advanced training. Then I took a similar course from the same instructor
for basic machine shop skills, and another for basic electronics. I have never
regretted any of that.
--
Jack
Bob Nixon
>
> 1. Do you HAVE to start with mild steel, become expert at welding it,
> and then move up to welding aluminum?
Pretty much, Tim. The best way I've found is with an expensive >$1000
TIG (Tungsten inert gas) welding because it's similar in hand
manipulation to basic Oxy-Acetylene welding or two handed. You can
also use (MIG) (metal inert gas) wire/inert/flux-core wire feed
welding but that also involves a fair amount of expense and an
"Aluminum short run special gun" because Aluminum is so soft it easily
get jumbled up in the wire feed system. There are also flux coated
Aluminum rods that do a fairly decent job but again expensive due to
needing to use reverse polarity DC welding (so forget the cheap $300
Lincoln AC only Buzz box welder) . My tig welder is set up to do
either TIG or DC/AC both polarity stick welding. Finally, you can do
OXY-fuel, even an air/Mapp gas torch welding of small parts with flux
coated rods but it's tough to keep from blowing through due to both
the low melting temperature (AL1200F- steel 2800F) and even more
importantly aluminum has a high thermal conductivity especially when
compared to iron alloys so some preheating the whole part may be
nessesary.
> 2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
> expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
Yes, as I already mentioned but Lincoln has a 140 amp/110ACV used with
a 30 amp breaker in line welder with an auxiliary Aluminum hand gun
for <$1000 using the MIG process. You can switch over from steel to AL
with this machine very quickly due to the aux hand held 1lbs AL rod
gun. Miller has similar machines but are more expensive and with
either if you want to do 1/4" or thicker AL welding you're better off
buying a 220volt @ the wall machine.
>
> 3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
Not much for Aluminum specific welding but check out the library. The
best way is to either take a JC college source or find a mentor who is
adept at Aluminum welding.
> 4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
> trade classes on welding?
Without a mentor I'd say it's essential. I did it the hard way being
good at steel for many years but I've made lots of expensive mistakes.
> Anything else you might like to add; I'm all ears.
>
> Thanks,
Yes, there is a quick and easy way to play around with Al welding. Get
yourself a Mapp Torch if you don't already have one and buy some 3 in
1 aluminum braze and pot metal weld coated rods. Sun glasses should
suffice but use 1/8" plate and cut the AL using shears, then braze or
capillary weld the two pieces back together but use about a 1" overlap
or one piece on top of the other and look not for red hot but rather
the shinny wet surface to appear. If this basic stuff appeals to you
then you can spend more $$ on training and equipment. I find welding
very soothing and satisfying once you start getting good results.I
almost forgot the most important thing. Aluminum in air builds up an
oxide layer within minutes that must be removed prior to welding. You
can use one or both method to get rid or the oxide layer. wire brush
or sanding the surface or an acid mix you can buy at welding supply
stores. Note that Stainless steel welding also requires a similar pre-
welding cleaning process.
> Tim (ready, willing, and anxious to learn to weld after 30+ years of
> just wrenching)
Have fun, Tim.
Bob Nixon..
.p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com
This might help
--
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Sean_Q_
> 3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
Would you trust the steering neck on your motorcycle after its
rake angle had been adjusted by a self-taught welder?
SQ
The Older Gentleman
> > 4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
> > trade classes on welding?
>
> Without a mentor I'd say it's essential.
Tanks for all this (and to the other posters, too). I bought a simple
electric arc welding set a while back. I haven't unpacked it yet, but I
was assuming I'd need some help. Neighbour-over-the-road is a skilled
welder. Hmmm... Might try bribing him with beer.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER GN250 Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
.p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com
(The Older Gentleman) wrote:
>Bob Nixon <bigre...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> > 4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
>> > trade classes on welding?
>>
>> Without a mentor I'd say it's essential.
>
>Tanks for all this (and to the other posters, too). I bought a simple
>electric arc welding set a while back. I haven't unpacked it yet, but I
>was assuming I'd need some help. Neighbour-over-the-road is a skilled
>welder. Hmmm... Might try bribing him with beer.
Yes, by all means get him drunk before he fucks with your
bike :-)
The Older Gentleman
> On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 22:44:17 +0000, totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk
> (The Older Gentleman) wrote:
>
> >Bob Nixon <bigre...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> > 4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
> >> > trade classes on welding?
> >>
> >> Without a mentor I'd say it's essential.
> >
> >Tanks for all this (and to the other posters, too). I bought a simple
> >electric arc welding set a while back. I haven't unpacked it yet, but I
> >was assuming I'd need some help. Neighbour-over-the-road is a skilled
> >welder. Hmmm... Might try bribing him with beer.
>
> Yes, by all means get him drunk before he fucks with your
> bike :-)
Bad Man. Actually, Tony is a really skilled vehicle restorer. He has a
collection of bikes - old Brit, japanese - and a fabulous old early
1950s Studebaker pick-up (he has a thing for Yank cars) into which he's
shoehorned a hopped-up V8. Gorgeous. Did it all himself, including the
paint.
His full time job's as a senior technician - might be workshop manager,
I'm not sure - at a nearby VW dealership. Go figure.
Bill Smith
>So a few questions for you welding savvy folks:
>
>1. Do you HAVE to start with mild steel, become expert at welding it,
>and then move up to welding aluminum?
>
>2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
>expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
>
>3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
>
>4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
>trade classes on welding?
The course I took at a community college was extremely useful, but
they'll have you doing mostly stick welding of steel that I found a
waste of time until I could get at the TIG machines.
>Anything else you might like to add; I'm all ears.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim (ready, willing, and anxious to learn to weld after 30+ years of
>just wrenching)
I went to all the trouble and expense of setting myself up to weld
aluminum and found that, like being a concert pianist or a surgeon, to
be any good at it you must do it all the time, day in and day out.
It's way more art than science. Find yourself a good welding shop that
does a lot of aluminum and take the work to them when you need
something done. If you haven't already, get a mill and a lathe and
learn some machining skills, you'll find them far more useful than
welding if you do any custom stuff or racing work.
Bill Smith
Bob Nixon
> On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 12:42:01 -0800 (PST), "tomor...@erols.com"
>
>
>
> <tomorrowaterolsdot...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >So a few questions for you welding savvy folks:
>
> >1. Do you HAVE to start with mild steel, become expert at welding it,
> >and then move up to welding aluminum?
>
> >2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
> >expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
>
> >3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
>
> >4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
> >trade classes on welding?
>
> >Anything else you might like to add; I'm all ears.
>
> >Thanks,
>
> >Tim (ready, willing, and anxious to learn to weld after 30+ years of
> >just wrenching)
>
> This might help
>
> http://www.durafix.com/
This stuff is similar to the 3:1 I covered in my post. It actually has
some sort of flux embedded into the rod and a higher temp Mapp torch
will do a bit better ( propane flame is 2400f vs Mapp gas=(stabilized
Acetylene hybrid with propane @ 2800 to 3000F). Mapp even smells like
Acetylene gas but isn't dangerous at pressures over 15PSI over
atmospheric. It also doesn't burn neutral like Acetylene @1:1 fuel/air
ratios making it unsuitable for Oxy-Mapp welding but it's great/
cheaper like Oxy-propane & propylene for cutting ferrous=iron based
metals metals.
Bob Nixon.
Snag
Take a class . There are set-ups out there that will do HF/AC/DC TIG ,
stick weld , plus act as a power supply for a "spool gun" - a type of MIG
welder that carries the wire right in the gun .
Expect to pay at least a couple thousand bucks for entry level equipment
with these capabilities .
There was a time all aluminum welding was done with OA , special fluxes ,
and special lenses in the welding goggles ...
--
Snag
Got the machine shop
need a TIG machine ...
Stephen Cowell
"tomo...@erols.com" <tomorrowat...@yahoo.com> wrote
> So a few questions for you welding savvy folks:
I just *have* to join the chorus...
> 1. Do you HAVE to start with mild steel, become expert at welding it,
> and then move up to welding aluminum?
Yes... if you're lucky. If you're like me, you're still stuck
at steel. Welding aluminum is about six times more difficult
and expensive than steel... it really sucks the heat up, and
as others have said, it doesn't really give you a good indication
of how hot the piece is getting, unlike steel. TIG is the
preferred method for aluminum welding... the throttle pedal
helps a lot there. I do FCAW.
> 2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
> expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
A wire gun and a bottle of argon (with different wires)
could be used on just about anything. The gun has to
be connected to either a charged 12V car battery or
a welding rig.
I use a Sears Craftsman $200 wire spitter, 80A... steel
only, no gas, only flux core (the wire is 10x more expensive
for flux core). I've had an *awful* lot of fun and a heck
of a lot of good use out of it. You'll want a 14" chop saw,
a cutting torch with oxy/acetylene bottles, clamps, stands,
etc. Make your own stands from automotive brake discs
and 3" pipe! I've made stands from brake drums and
angle iron... who says you can't weld cast?
> 3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
I'm self-taught... I used the Haynes manual:
http://www.directtextbook.com/9781563921100/welding-manual-chilton-1563921103
it's a great overview, although you'll want a real textbook
if you're going to pursue the hobby to any depth (like
aluminum). I've made barbecue stands, other stands for
shop equipment, my own bottle rack for the torch, I
made my footpeg mounts for my Harley, I've repaired
car seats etc. Being able to stick angle iron together is
super useful... you can build just about anything given
enough angle iron and fluxcore wire. Torch welding
is another thing entirely... braze won't just flow like
solder will.
> 4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
> trade classes on welding?
That's the next step, obviously... I'll get there, given time. It's
the only way to really get good and be exposed to the really
good equipment.
__
Steve
.
tomorrowat...@yahoo.com
Wow, that's a loaded question. I suppose if I were having something
like that done (can't imagine it, but take it as a supposition) then I
would go to a welder who was highly recommended by friends and
acquaintances who had used him and gotten good results. I doubt very
much that I would ask to see his welding school certificates.
As far as DIY books are concerned, I asked not because I plan to read
one and then set up shop as a professional welder, but because I am
thinking about learning entry-level welding with the hope of someday
becoming good at it... kind of like I did with software development
(at which I have made my living for the last 30 years) and motorcycle
roadracing (at which I managed to win a few races and run in a few pro
races). Maybe if I become good enough at it, when I retire from my
"real" job, I'll be able to make a few bucks out of my garage....
perhaps even adjusting the steering neck rake angle on friends' bikes!
tomorrowat...@yahoo.com
> On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 12:42:01 -0800 (PST), "tomor...@erols.com"
Thanks, Bill. I've played with friend's mills and lathes, and that,
too, is part of the long term plan. I'll find someone to do my
aluminum welding for the time being, but will make use of all the
helpful advice given here and find a class on entry level (steel)
welding at a local community college to see if I have any aptitude for
the art at all.
Sean_Q_
> Wow, that's a loaded question...
Yes it was a loaded, worst-risk scenario. I thought about
learning to weld for various non-[to me]-safety-critical repairs
on VW trikes etc. Then I thought, what if some did-it-myself
luggage bracket weld fractured and fell off on the highway and caused
an injury to someone behind me. Uh oh, big liabilitie$.
SQ
S'mee
Only if you stop...that's why you add the nitro for those expeditious
get aways. (dumping a bit of diesel/used oil into the exhaust at the
same time wouldn't hurt either)
sheesh...I gotta explain everything to you guys. 8^)
Sean_Q_
> Only if you stop...that's why you add the nitro for those expeditious
> get aways. (dumping a bit of diesel/used oil into the exhaust at the
> same time wouldn't hurt either)
>
> sheesh...I gotta explain everything to you guys. 8^)
I suppose I could also spray some real slippery soapy stuff behind me
so as to deny drive wheel or steering traction to anyone in pursuit
(at the cost of considerable collateral damage). Of course it wouldn't
be *my* cost so why should I care? Y'know Keith I'm staring to worry
that you might be a bad influence on me.
SQ
Eiron
> S'mee wrote:
>
>> Only if you stop...that's why you add the nitro for those expeditious
>> get aways. (dumping a bit of diesel/used oil into the exhaust at the
>> same time wouldn't hurt either)
>>
>> sheesh...I gotta explain everything to you guys. 8^)
>
> I suppose I could also spray some real slippery soapy stuff behind me
> so as to deny drive wheel or steering traction to anyone in pursuit
You're thinking of James Bond's DB5.
That oil it sprayed over the road wasn't one of Q's gadgets,
it was simply British engineering at its best.
--
Eiron.
Dave H.
"tomorrow wrote...
> So a few questions for you welding savvy folks:
>
> 1. Do you HAVE to start with mild steel, become expert at welding it,
> and then move up to welding aluminum?
>
> 2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
> expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
>
> 3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
>
> 4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
> trade classes on welding?
>
> Anything else you might like to add; I'm all ears.
>
Hi Tim,
Re:
1 - it'll save you a *lot* of money to get your initial practice on steel,
then move up to aluminium
2. - DC TIG for steel/stainless/copper/bronze/titanium, AC (more expensive)
for aluminium and magnesium - the modern inverter welders are way more
economical to run than trad' transformer machines, way more portable (40-70
pounds vs 400-700) and the smaller models (up to 200 amp, good for 3/8
steel, 1/4 aluminium) will run on 220/240v house current (with a 32 amp
breaker). The auto-darken masks are a real improvement over the flip-downs I
learned with, too.
You'll also need shielding gas for a TIG, here in the UK i's either tiny
disposable bottles or leasing the big boys - again, not cheap!
3. - I'd recommend buying / borrowing (or torrenting?) the Ron Covell "TIG
welding basics" or the HTP "welcome to TIG welding" DVDs - maybe $30?
Certainly a pretty small sum compared to the price of a TIG welder...
4. - *if* you can find a class that'll let you use TIG for the majority of
your practice, very useful - be aware though that even the argon shielding
gas will burn a hole in your pocket and they may want extra over and above
the course fee if you'll be using a lot of it!
I went through a shop class in college that got me as far as decent welds in
steel using TIG, "adequate" welds in aluminium, it wasn't a quick and easy
learning process...
*If* you decide you want to go for it, I recommend practice, and lots of it,
and making test pieces (e.g. fillet, butt and lap welds on a variety of
thicknesses and materials) and sectioning them to check weld penetration and
to spot any voids etc. - that can give you a fair idea of how competent
you've got and how safe your welded items will be.
Bear in mind that not all alloys are weldable, many may need heat treatment
once welded too to restore their mechanical properties, and with aluminium
alloys it's important to match the filler to the workpiece - this can be
tricky, as working on someone else's parts may mean you have *no idea* what
alloy you're attempting to weld!
Hope this helps, and hasn't put you off the idea!
Dave H.
--
(The engineer formerly known as Homeless)
"Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men" -
Douglas Bader
S'mee
> S'mee wrote:
> > Only if you stop...that's why you add the nitro for those expeditious
> > get aways. (dumping a bit of diesel/used oil into the exhaust at the
> > same time wouldn't hurt either)
>
> > sheesh...I gotta explain everything to you guys. 8^)
>
> I suppose I could also spray some real slippery soapy stuff behind me
> so as to deny drive wheel or steering traction to anyone in pursuit
> (at the cost of considerable collateral damage).
I got the idea from watching various cages and such hauling trailers
or with loads on the vehicles themselves, losing bits and pieces with
nary a worry.
> Of course it wouldn't
> be *my* cost so why should I care? Y'know Keith I'm staring to worry
> that you might be a bad influence on me.
It's what I do... =8^)
S'mee
or DROF.
Bob Nixon
Above is the best post yet, on TIG welding steel & aluminum! (I've
never seen that book but now I can prolly order it via Amazon). I have
a general welding book but it only briefly touches on Aluminum
welding. This author claims if he only had 1 welding machine it would
be Oxy-Acetylene. I think that idea is a bit dated as nowadays maybe a
good TIG box with an aluminum spool gun would have the greatest
flexibility for the novice welder.
Just remember with tig welders there is a third or foot pedal to
control the % of amperage you have dialed in the front panel. My
Miller 200 also has an AC arc starter so you don't have to touch &
contaminate the tungsten (al) or tungsten+2% thorium electrode for
steel and other metals. It also has a variable pulse function to
mainly to modify the LOOK of the bead. Plus AC for TIG Aluminum and DC
both polarities for steel and other alloys.As I originally mentioned
it also does AC/DC+- stick welding, so I sold my old Lincoln AC only
buzz box. The TIG machine was ~$1500 when I bought it some years back.
This brings another point to mind though. MIG welders are getting
cheaper, better quality, lighter and easier to use all the time so
this may be a better course to pursue. It's not the "do it all"
Cadillac of welders but it may be the best starting point. BTW, I love
both of my self darkening helmets. One even has squid coloring and
time threshold and amount of darkening adjustment for a large range
from Oxy-Acetylene to mig darkening. One more thing. Always have -0-
exposed skin as even Oxyacetylene can throw sparks and has "some" UV-B
but all electric welders will give you a nasty sunburn, even if your
exposure to the arc is only 5 minutes. I also recommend a leather
apron/heavy gloves as dripping hot metal will burn right through a
pair of jeans.
I also use a propane fired horse-shoe style forge/anvil, large vise &
associated tools and I have even learned how to weld aka; 1900 wagon
wheel style using a special flux and reheating/cleaning with a wire
brush before adding flux reheating and beating the two parts together
with a 5lb hammer. I can even cut hot metal with a swagging tool and
brass hammer on the anvil. It's tough work especially with my weak
heart but I love to work lead soft steel @ 2000+F and the fire box is
awesome or pure light hot after a 15-20 minutes from start-up. A 5lb
propane tank lasts about 4-6 hours depending on the atmospheric burner
(s) pressure. Much cheaper than argon, oxygen, acetylene, (bi or tri-
mix)=for steel mig welding.
Bob Nixon..
tomorrowat...@yahoo.com
Thanks, Dave - really appreciate the detailed advice!
Tim
Vito
"Dave H.<hopefuldave_doesnt_eat_spiced_...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > So a few questions for you welding savvy folks:
>
<snip good stuff>
It isn't exactly welding but I have some "sticks" used to "solder" or braze
aluminum that are very easy to use, especially on thin stuff like beer cans
or race bike radiators. For example
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/aluminum_repair.asp . (Watch the video). I
can't vouch for it on structural stuff but it saves me a very expensive
Yammy TZ radiatior.
Stupendous Man
about 8 different welding systems now.
Here is a tremendous amount of qualified free info,
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/improving-your-skills/
Also, subscribe to - sci.engr.joining.welding , and read posts by Ernie
Liemkuhler, the presiding Guru of the N.G. and a few more of the pros there.
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
Dave H.
"Vito" wrote...
>
> It isn't exactly welding but I have some "sticks" used to "solder" or
> braze
> aluminum that are very easy to use, especially on thin stuff like beer
> cans
> or race bike radiators. For example
> http://www.aluminumrepair.com/aluminum_repair.asp . (Watch the video). I
> can't vouch for it on structural stuff but it saves me a very expensive
> Yammy TZ radiatior.
>
I've used similar (from a Swedish company IIRC), repairing a cracked union
on a ZZR11/ZX11 oil cooler - also expensive to replace, never let a mate
"just tighten it down for you", particularly when it's as-new from a
California breaker and just arrived from across the Atlantic... I found the
best results came after vee-ing the crack a little and drilling (about 1/8"
diameter) at the end of the crack so I could get the filler rod where it was
needed - the same stuff makes fair joints on ally plate or sheet for
non-critical brackets etc, and can even be "cast in place" for stripped
threads - open the hole out some and leave a clean steel bolt in place and
unscrew it when the filler's cooled, so far it's taken the manufacturer's
torque (on a clean,dry thread - DAMHIK) with no problems.
The only issue I've had when using it is getting enough heat into large
sections of ally, it really sucks the heat, but a decent propane torch does
the job - although I'm always a little nervous as there's a fine line
between hot enough and melting...
I've found that a small stainless steel brush to work the pool really speeds
up the process, as it clears the aluminium oxide from the surfaces you're
joining and lets it float to the surface of the pool, letting the filler mix
with the ally and start it melting (the filler rod actually lowers the
melting point of the ally to make a sort-of-weld).
wspit...@gmail.com
> So a few questions for you welding savvy folks:
>
> and then move up to welding aluminum?
>
> 2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
> expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
>
> 3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
>
> 4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
> trade classes on welding?
>
> Anything else you might like to add; I'm all ears.
>
>
> Tim (ready, willing, and anxious to learn to weld after 30+ years of
> just wrenching)
> So a few questions for you welding savvy folks:
>
> and then move up to welding aluminum?
>
> 2. Currently available welding equipment for home use... how
> expensive, and do you need different systems for different materials?
>
> 3. Know any good DIY books on the subject?
>
> 4. How effective/important are such classes as local community college
> trade classes on welding?
>
> Anything else you might like to add; I'm all ears.
>
Futility Man
regurgitating that post without adding anything to it.
Futility Man
Mark Olson
> I don't know which is worse - replying to a FIVE YEAR OLD post, or simply
> regurgitating that post without adding anything to it.
I honestly don't see any reason to disparage an answer given years
after the question, so long as the answer is still correct and useful.
And as I see it, whether or not it is useful to the original poster is
irrelevant. If usefulness to the OP was the only thing that mattered,
newsgroups might just as well have been a place to post questions
and all the answers could have been delivered by private email. The
whole point of newsgroups as I see it is to share information between
many people, not just to facilitate 1-on-1 exchanges.
Thomas
> On 2014-12-29 2:17 PM, Futility Man wrote:
>> I don't know which is worse - replying to a FIVE YEAR OLD post, or
>> simply
>> regurgitating that post without adding anything to it.
>
> The latter, surely.
>
> I honestly don't see any reason to disparage an answer given years
> after the question, so long as the answer is still correct and useful.
>
> whole point of newsgroups as I see it is to share information between
> many people, not just to facilitate 1-on-1 exchanges.
mishap. I still have the aluminum brace, in pieces, from my last incident.
I was just thinking of getting it welded together and saving at least a
couple hundred $.
I don't remember how Tim fared, though.
Terry Coombs
whether it was originally cast or formed and welded . Which is to say , give
me more information and I can probably tell you whether it can be welded or
not . Photos will help if you can post some somewhere .
--
Snag
Thomas
craft. I'll just hire it out if I decide to do anything. The break is ~4"
long, 1/4" thick. A new part costs ~$275. I figure I can get someone
(neighbor, maybe?) to weld it for $50 or so.
It's the cast brace that the mirror stalk bolts onto on a Yamaha FJR, BTW.
It's crazy. If an FJR tips over, the mirror is the first thing that
touches. The brace is almost guaranteed to break. It's buried deep inside
the bike. In order to replace it, you need to dismantle the entire front
end, including removal of the headlight housing. The factory says R&R is a
4 hour job, but shops will take at least 6 to do it. OTOH, Honda and BMW,
among others, have figured out if you put a small outrigger down low that
will take that initial impact, you can save thousands in repair bills.
Terry Coombs
N. central Arkansas , and have a pretty well-equipped machine shop -
including a TIG welder . If it's cast , chances are pretty good that it's a
300 series aluminum , which can be welded with proper pre and post heat and
the correct filler . The biggest problem I run into when welding aluminum
parts is oil . Aluminum is porous and WILL absorb oil and solvents , which
have to be "cooked" out before a successful repair can be made .
My reply-to is good , but not my primary .
--
Snag
Thomas
> Thomas wrote:
>>
>> It's the cast brace that the mirror stalk bolts onto on a Yamaha FJR,
>
> in N. central Arkansas ,
of welders around here, so it's probably not worth shipping it halfway
across the country. We'll see.
Again, thanks.
Terry Coombs
mention pre and post heat and minimum base metal/filler intermix , RUN !
because he doesn't understand the requirements .
--
Snag