I would guess that bikes use a flasher unit somewhat like a car, and
this needs to be replaced, but I have yet to find it. If this is the
case, where is it located?
Thanks in advance
That's a pretty likely source of the problem, but not necessarily. It
could also be an intermittent open somewhere; most likely a ground if not
the flasher. Check the bulbs themselves, too; corrosion in the socket can
cause your problem.
> but I have yet to find it. If this is the
>case, where is it located?
Don't know in your particular bike, but on Harvey it's behind the left side
cover. An automotive flasher works instead of the (expensive) Honda
flasher (unless they stuck some special stuff on your '83).
__ ____ _ _____________________________________________________
/ // o ) // | Don Fearn | In | Anitra - '93 900-SS \
| // __/_// | of | my | Gretchen - '86 K75-C |
|((_/oo(o/er is: Rochester, | care: Harvey - '72 CB500-4 |
\______________|___Minnesota___|_______|___Butcher_Boy_-_'56_FLH__/
"What do _you_ care what other people think?" --Arline Feynman
Alternators in motorcycles are generally subjected to more
of a range of RPM than their automotive counterparts.
They tend to not be charging the bike at idle, especially with the
headlight (skyburner bulb?) and brake light on.
This means that the system voltage has dropped at idle. Especially so
if the battery is so-so.
Couple this with the fact the many bikes use the simplest, cheapest
flasher (thermal) possible, and you have the "no-flash, sometimes"
condition.
Simply not enough energy is dissipated in the thermal flasher for
reliable flashing at the lower voltage. Any voltage drops along the
way add up and interfere with flashing also, such as losses across:
Ignition switch, fuses, turn signal switch, bulb housings, connectors.
Are both the front and rear lamps lit up when you have your failure
to flash?
Your problem might be rectified with the replacement of the flasher
with one of either the "electronic" (uses a relay and an R/C
timing circuit) or "electro-mechanical" type (uses a solenoid and
a mechanical timing device). A good truck parts or fleet supply store
carries both types. Good auto parts stores will carry the electronic
type. Each is available in a 2 or 3 terminal version. Get one that matches
your flasher. Both types will flash even if only one good bulb remains.
Electronic: generally packaged within a clear, round housing so that
you can see the electrolytic capacitor within. Cost: ~$10.00 US
Electro-mechanical: packaged in a somewhat cubical box. May have
two mounting tabs. Rattles if you shake it. Cost: ~$16.00 US
Will flash more lamps than you dare mount. Will flash even if the
voltage so low that the bulbs are somewhat dimmer than normal.
For you folk that drag trailers behind your bike, I recommend the
electro-mechanical type.
Our brothers and sisters in the UK are probably not as troubled
with flasher problems, if I recall correctly the UK bikes must meet
a rather strict 90 Flash/minute standard to be in sellable condition,
thus the bikes tend to be equipped with better (electronic?) flashers.
Mike Weisman.
Nope. This is all wrong. The simple answer is that you are out of blinker
fluid. (kudos to rec.jeeps.willis....) If you inspect the bike enough, you will
find a small reservoir which contains the liquid that allows the turn
signals to flash. Refill it with the correct grade of blinker fluid, and your
troubles will be over.
But if the signals flash better (or at all) when the engine is revving
higher, then either a)the battery voltage is sagging too low (regulator/
alternator problem) or the flasher is slowly becoming defective. If
one side flashes better than the other, you may have the incorrect lamp
installed. Some flashers depend on a particular load current - that is,
if the load is too small (less than one lamp's current) it will just stay on.
This is done to notify the driver that one of the bulbs is burned out.
I used to be able to use the flashers on my old CL360 as a pretty good
voltmeter - to keep track of the charging system/battery state.
Hope this helps!
Jim
The OEM type replacement flashers for cars are generally set to run with a
specific number of bulbs of a certain wattage. This is why the signals on
your car do not flash when one bulb is out, or they flash very fast when
you have additional bulbs (like a trailer). Typically the OEM variety
flashers are for two bulbs or three bulbs. The "heavy-duty" automotive
flashers don't really care how many bulbs you have hooked up, but you have
no way of knowing if you have a bulb out or not unless you physically
check. The electronic flashers are similar, but if you are handy you can
open one up and change the RC timing and make the signals flash annoyingly
faster. THe only drawback I have found to the electronic flashers is that
they are sensitive to RF energy -- if you are into CB's or amateur radio
and have a high-power radio, transmitting may cause the flasher to go
postal or quit.
Bill...
Of course! How could I have missed it?!!?
Just a note for Brits: It's called "winker fluid" over there, I believe.
pooder was here <grin>
Which should never be replaced with "wanker fluid". This will give an
entirely different effect.
Not to be confused with wanker fluid which is something else entirely.
Mike
--
______________________________________________________________________________
Michael Weaver Paramedic RotKotL| If it harms none, do what you will.
wea...@arches.uga.edu |_____________________________________________
DoD#0529 Archangel of Ged | Yamahas -> 82 Vision | 93 GTS1000A
EEEWWW!... well, anyway... ahem. a note to the original poster...
It is most likely not the blinker unit... or, uh... the wanker fluid (gak)
;-) If the problem is intermittent, replace the bulbs, check the sockets
for corrosion, and most importantly make sure the ground screws in the signal
units themselves (I'm assuming your '83 Honda is set up similar to my '83
Honda) are tight, not missing or corroded or loose or whatever. You've
spent about $5, and I bet the problem will go away.
--
!!!!!!!!!
!! ^ ^ !! Dave Green dgr...@acs.ryerson.ca
!!!(0)-(0)!!! '83 CB750SC DoD#1468
!!!! U !!!!
!!!! (---) !!!!
!!!!! w !!!!! http://weston.fpd.ryerson.ca/people/dgreen.htm
!!! !!!
mactiller
>It is most likely not the blinker unit... or, uh... the wanker fluid (gak)
>;-) If the problem is intermittent, replace the bulbs, check the sockets
>for corrosion, and most importantly make sure the ground screws in the signal
>units themselves (I'm assuming your '83 Honda is set up similar to my '83
>Honda) are tight, not missing or corroded or loose or whatever. You've
>spent about $5, and I bet the problem will go away.
To prevent future corrosion, buy an aerosol can of white lithium
grease, and then spray the connectors before putting them together,
that will help keep moisture out, works great on battery termianls
also.
If you have replaced the flasher globes with higher voltage or wattage
globes than standard this can also cause this problem.
One thing about those car type (electro-mechanical) flashers, - they tend to
get shaken to pieces if fitted to a bike. My bike consumed great numbers of
these devices until I fitted a real small (and el-cheapo) version from Woolies
or Kmart - then no more problems. In all cases they must be mounted with some
sort of cushioning material to avoid vibration destroying them.
The more expensive ones (including the fancy clear cased ones) fell to bits
with regular monotany. The solid/ thermal types most Jap bikes have don't do
this.
As to where is it? could be anywhere, including under the fuel tank or seat
on the frame or as in my case, inside the headlight shell (70's bike).
If it is a solid state (thermal) type it will possible look like a (nearly
always) black, little half match box sized squarish unit with (probably) two
connectors on it. Happy hunting.
Hope this helps.
Regards.
Bob M.
> >Ghosts, no doubt about it...
>
> Who ya gonna call?
Hells Angels?
: In article <55dk9e$3...@kensie.dorsai.org>
I hear the Banditos are superior...............