At the beginning of the riding season here in NW New Jersey I noticed that
the dip stick for my '99 FLHTCI was unusually difficult to remove.
Eventually, I wound up pulling the cap off my digital dip stick. I still
had the original factory supplied stick, so I put that in and it was tight
as well. Not only was it difficult to extract, but it was difficult to
insert as well. The hole looked nice and clean, but just to make sure I
didn't have an accumulation of dried oil, varnish, etc. I took a green 3M
finishing pad and polished the inside of the hole where the dipstick seal
makes contact. (I stuck a clean rag into the hole first to catch any
particulate matter that might contaminate the oil supply.) There was no
noticeable difference. Although, I did clean a little crud from the inside
of the hole. A week later I wound up pulling the top of the OEM dip stick.
The tech at my dealership didn't have any ideas why I was having such a time
of it, so now I'm playing guessing games. I'm not an engine person, so I
may be way off base here, but is it possible that there is some kind of
engine vent that has become clogged and, therefore, created difficulties in
inserting and extracting the dip stick? Again, just a WAG.
Any ideas or insights will be appreciated.
Al Phillips
It's suppose to be hard to get off.......
--
Steve Irving BS#237 - The Delusional Slug
12 mbps Mouth Breather
It is very possible that your technique sucks or the tank does.....
Well, the thing of it is that I bought the bike new, it now has over 61,000
miles, and I haven't changed my extraction technique. So why now?
Al Phillips
(the other Al)
Probably because he's been fiddling with it.
No wonder the bottom of his pipe turned blue........
> yeah, ya need to wiggle the damn thing while pulling it out.
That sounds painful.
112
It's for the bike's pleasure......
Invisible68
must be using that Heat sensitive lube.....
Astroglide.... for your electra glide....
http://www.undercovercondoms.com/Product/Global-Protection/221/Astroglide-Warming-5-oz.html
Invisible68
Not gwina touch that!
Did you switch breakfast cereal to Wheaties or increase your spinach
consumption?
I will!
Maybe the Gerbil doesn't like the light?
Perhaps, but still strong enough to pull the tops off (and ruin) two dip
sticks in two weeks.
Al
Hard to imagine the neck of your tank shrinking so perhaps after 10 years
the rubber just becomes sticky when it gets hot - a bad batch of dip
sticks...however unlikely that may be.
Or maybe a result of something in your environment or the type of oil your
are (or did) using - what oil types have been used over the 10 years?
>>- a bad batch of dip sticks...
Should be on a sign over the front door.
112
This may sound strange butt you need to put some lipstick on the
rubber O-ring , makes it work mo-betta.
kickstart- the lipstick on the dipstick Asshole
I'm now on my third dip stick (pulled the cap off the first two), and they
all fit the same.
At about 5, 000 miles or so I switched to Mobil 1 for V Twins 20 W-50. If
I'm on the road and it's time for a change (every 2,500) I take it to a
dealer and use the H-D synthetic. (Note to Group: I have no desire to
participate in an oil thread. I'm just answering a question.)
As I said previously, I cleaned the inside of the tank neck with a 3M pad in
order to remove any accumulated build up of oil residue. Believe me, it
sparkles.
The dip stick is *unusually* difficult to remove regardless of whether the
engine is hot or cold.
Just to satisfy my intellectual curiosity (I use the term loosely), knowing
there would be absolutely no lasting benefit, I sprayed some WD-40 on the
rubber seal of the dip stick and wiped some on the inside of the hole as
well. There was a slight improvement, but not much.
Al Phillips
>This may sound strange butt you need to put some lipstick on the
>rubber O-ring , makes it work mo-betta.
>kickstart- the lipstick on the dipstick Asshole
This is getting seriously disturbing. First we got some guy changing his
extraction technique and yanking the tops off of dipsticks and then we get
kickstart telling us they need a kiss first.
This is one sick litter of puppies!
DaveN
leave my dipstick alone!
Better than an oil thread !!!!
> I'm now on my third dip stick (pulled the cap off the first two), and they
> all fit the same.
>
> At about 5, 000 miles or so I switched to Mobil 1 for V Twins 20 W-50. If
> I'm on the road and it's time for a change (every 2,500) I take it to a
> dealer and use the H-D synthetic. (Note to Group: I have no desire to
> participate in an oil thread. I'm just answering a question.)
>
> As I said previously, I cleaned the inside of the tank neck with a 3M pad in
> order to remove any accumulated build up of oil residue. Believe me, it
> sparkles.
>
> The dip stick is *unusually* difficult to remove regardless of whether the
> engine is hot or cold.
>
> Just to satisfy my intellectual curiosity (I use the term loosely), knowing
> there would be absolutely no lasting benefit, I sprayed some WD-40 on the
> rubber seal of the dip stick and wiped some on the inside of the hole as
> well. There was a slight improvement, but not much.
Replaced the oil cap on my softail with a removable freeze plug. Got a
nice brass wing nut on the top to tighten it up with and when I want to
remove it I just loosen the wingnut and pull it out.
Simple.
But it's not chrome.
--
Spunky the Tuna
"No nation can meet this changing world unless its people, individually
and collectively, grow in ability to understand. Ability to handle the
new knowledge, as applied to increasingly intricate human relationships."
- FDR June 30, 1938
Is that conventional or synthetic lipstick?
michael
Hmm, sounds like a better arrangement than me having a welder attach a
handle to the top of my dip stick, so I don't have to use channel lock
pliers. (Just kidding about the handle.)
I'm not familiar with Softails. Do they have a screw on top or a friction
fit as mine does? Considering how my dip stick is constructed, I wouldn't
know how to go about modifying it.
Al
Replace the O-rings that have swelled over the years from
exposure to the oil
SKooter
> Replace the O-rings that have swelled over the years from
> exposure to the oil
> SKooter
As I said previously, because I have pulled the top off (ruined) my digital
and OEM dip sticks I had to buy a brand new one. It goes in and out the
same, i.e., *unusually* difficult.
Al
> Hmm, sounds like a better arrangement than me having a welder attach a
> handle to the top of my dip stick, so I don't have to use channel lock
> pliers. (Just kidding about the handle.)
>
> I'm not familiar with Softails. Do they have a screw on top or a friction
> fit as mine does? Considering how my dip stick is constructed, I wouldn't
> know how to go about modifying it.
Friction fit just like yours. Just take your dipstick to an auto supply
place and compare the rubber plug diameter to a removable freeze plug.
Get one just a bit smaller than the dipstick so it'll slide right in.
Tightening the wing nut squashes the rubber so it swells to fit the hole.
You lose your dipstick, but you should know by looking in the hole when
you're low anyway.
Simple and cheap.
Ok, that explains it. I couldn't figure out how you kept the stick.
As much as I appreciate the suggestion, Spunky, I would like to find a
solution that would allow me to retain the dip stick feature. I guess I'm
just anal that way.
Al
I thought that was a dealer serviceable part only....
michael
the "still pretty thirsty & poor excuse for helping" sometimes scooter bum
DaveN
>> As I said previously, because I have pulled the top off (ruined) my
>> digital and OEM dip sticks I had to buy a brand new one. It goes in and
>> out the same, i.e., *unusually* difficult.
>>
>> Al
>>
>
> I thought that was a dealer serviceable part only....
> michael
>
> the "still pretty thirsty & poor excuse for helping" sometimes scooter bum
Ah, I see the confusion. And, BTW, Shirley still has my cc, so the drinks
are still flowing- bottoms up.
No, the dip stick comes right off the display rack. Just pick the one you
want. My current one has a chrome cap with a cross hatch pattern along the
side which I can grip with a rag and pair of channel lock pliers (dealer's
suggestion).
Al
Replace the bolt that pinches the washers together with a long
bolt or piece of all-thread, mark that at the level you like your oil,
& you have a quick release plug with a dip stick on it.......<shrug>
Jinks ('86FXRS, '07FLTR)
#64
Remember, "No good deed goes unpunished"
Thank, Jinks. Sound simple enough that even I can do it.
Al
>
>"Jinks" <Ji...@thecomputer.com> wrote in message
>news:ujpn4551hpip4h67p...@4ax.com...
>> On Wed, 1 Jul 2009 15:48:41 -0400, "Lame Duck" <6...@mindspring.com>
>> wrote:
>
>> Replace the bolt that pinches the washers together with a long
>> bolt or piece of all-thread, mark that at the level you like your oil,
>> & you have a quick release plug with a dip stick on it.......<shrug>
>>
>> Jinks ('86FXRS, '07FLTR)
>> #64
>
>Thank, Jinks. Sound simple enough that even I can do it.
Wanna get real fancy, after you get the bolt/rod the length
you want it grind it down to a size similar to a real dip stick.
That'd have to be done below what ever you use to hold the bottom
washer, but it'd look a lot more professional to whoever lives in your
oil bucket.
Since nobody else is payin' any attention to tradition, I'll
get the next round............SHIRLEY!
Jinks ('86FXRS, '07FLTR)
#64
Practically speaking, that may be the best solution. The motor never has
been an oil burner. Still, if something were to change internally I'd want
to know about it before I ran dry.
Al
> unless there is a puddle underneath the thing when you park it, why even
> worry about checking it? we keep a pan under the '73 and when it starts to
> get full, we pour it back in the bike. only have to do that a few times a
> year.
> michael
My '05 doesn't leak a drop, but it burns oil like crazy (not enough for Harley
to do anything about it though)........
I kinda like to check the oil a few times between oil changes......
--
Steve Irving BS#237 - The Delusional Slug
12 mbps Mouth Breather
>nunya wrote:
>
>> unless there is a puddle underneath the thing when you park it, why even
>> worry about checking it? we keep a pan under the '73 and when it starts to
>> get full, we pour it back in the bike. only have to do that a few times a
>> year.
>> michael
>
>My '05 doesn't leak a drop, but it burns oil like crazy (not enough for Harley
>to do anything about it though)........
>
>I kinda like to check the oil a few times between oil changes......
The cop bike will burn half a quart between changes. After I rebuilt
the Bark-O-Glide, it didn't use a drop... ever. Reckon I need to blow
the cop bike up so that I can save on the cost of oil.
--
Curly LaJolla AH#117 BS#107
2004 FLHTPI Cop Bike
The party never ends!
Mine needed a top end by 45k miles. Fookin' cops is hard on 'em!
Snarl... hurry up and stop
>>The cop bike will burn half a quart between changes. After I rebuilt
>>the Bark-O-Glide, it didn't use a drop... ever. Reckon I need to blow
>>the cop bike up so that I can save on the cost of oil.
>
>Mine needed a top end by 45k miles. Fookin' cops is hard on 'em!
Mine never was in service. Guy I bought it from was the original
owner.
i guess i should have put a big ;-) after this last post of mine. it was
supposed to be a joke since most folk tend to ride about as much as we ride
the '73. the ol lady pretty much retired it after we got her the RK. now
it gets cranked a few times a year just to watch it puke the pan full of oil
and then go around the block to warm it up to operating temp.
michael
Sounds like the perfect opportunity to bore it out 95" pistons cost the
same as 88's.
Have Baisley bless the heads, just to be sure the oil problem is not
coming from there... ;)